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Got tired of robbing parts machines so, Made a few shifter grub screws on mini lathe. Now the other horses want be jealous and everyone will have a shifter that works .

Finished the electrical. Made up the exhaust manifold. Made up a better hood pivot thingy. Not much time for anything else.

Everyone meet Jerry, Jerry meet everyone. my 5 year old stepson wanted to have a skeleton on a tractor. He went with his mom to go see his sister at her college this weekend. Can’t wait til he sees it. I’m going to get a different skeleton for the one who’s getting mowed up. Now the wheels are turning on getting Jerry some friends doing other crazy things. He’s temporarily mowing with my 12auto until I get the rusty 14-8 up from out back.

Another fast forward for real-time progress:

By far the best thing I've found to keep a deck solid is to do very little. My routine after every mowing it to blow it off, jack it up and just scrape the clumps of grass off. No hosing. The clumps hold the moisture and that's the problem. I purchased the 48" deck on this tractor new in the late 70's. Since 2009 it's been used on this 2005 Classic. Zero rust. Once a year when I put it to bed for the winter I do pressure wash it and give is a light mist of whatever oil I happen to have at the time.

National Noodle Day is on October 6 and we are getting ready to celebrate by doing the best thing possible with noodles… eating them! Can you believe that noodles have been around for over 4,000 years? Noodles are popular all over the world and range in shape from flat, to round, to twisted, to sheets, to tubes, and many more. They can be made from rice, buckwheat, wheat, with or without eggs and even now from zucchini. Eating noodles is the easiest way to forklift as many delicious carbs into your mouth at once, making them a national favorite. The term has become a catch-all for all things pasta, spaghetti, macaroni and dorm-friendly ramen, which means there’s a dish out there for everyone, no matter your sauce and topping preferences.

I was in Delaware and missed the first day of Pa archery deer season yesterday. I got home at noon today and had everything unloaded and stowed. Sunday hunting was approved this year so I grabbed my bow and one arrow, jumped on the 312H and headed for my tree stand. Checked my trail cams and only a couple doe at night. I climbed up in the stand at 5:30 and at 6:15 deer started crossing the field. A doe and 2 fawns, a doe and one fawn and a doe and 2 fawns. At 6:30 this guy walked by me at 18 yards. My archery season is over in one hour.

Another test showing how useless most additives are:

Here is my actual lizard doing just that!

When I did mine, I made new cables from my bulk stock that I have. One source for example - https://www.mfgsupply.com/mower/mowerthrottle/mowerthrottleu.html You can also buy a cable that is too long from a local source and cut to fit. The ends by the levers can be opened up to remove the old cable, pinch back closed when new cable is installed.

The ol girl worked good today. Dug up a brick and mortar foundation and hauled it away with no sweat!

On the 1973 and later models you can take most of the axle movement by fixing the front hitch. We drilled out the front hitch and made a 1/2" thick stepped bushing that was welded in. Also made a new over sized pivot pin. Can't post pictures as the Government site I used is shut down.

Sea Foam works! I don't care what anyone else says. Especially someone looking for clicks and likes on YT. I have used it for years. Had a lifter tick in my 94 Chevy. Added 1/2 can to the oil. The tick was gone in 4 miles and stayed gone. Wife's Caravan pinged like crazy. Half a can in the gas and the other half down the Throttle body. Ping gone. B-I-L had a Buick 4 banger that sounded like the innards were going to come out of the oil pan. 1 can in the oil and it was gone.

There is ONE safe way to remove the ENTIRE Dlectric PTO clutch: here it is: Removing it with any sort of 3-jaw puller or the like will just about guaranteed destruction.. (Don't ask me how I know that.)

Better late than never…..

The C-111 has this decal on the engine shroud. My buddy texts me this morning and asks if I’m wrenching on the single mom

It’s supposed to start thunder storming any minute. I just got off the roof, and it’s ready to shed water!

Looks just like my mowing decks!!

"What Is Different About Wheel Horse Enthusiasts?" Rugged simple to work on and best looking tractors around. I encourage you and anyone else that gets a chance to try and make The Big Show in PA. This was my first time this year and found it's the same kind of atmosphere at show as on the Red Square. Be warned though it was hard on my pocketbook, took one with me to sell and ended up bringing 2 back plus a 701 motor and other bits and pieces. Meet some great people that helped me out on various things and one bunch (Ya'll now who you are) that allowed me to hang out with them.

Though the GT-14s all are listed as having the 90-2062 Sundstrand hydro and Charger, Electro, and Bronco are listed as leaving the factory with the Sundstrand 90-2046. The difference between these two models is the number of teeth on the output gear of the hydraulic motor that is coupled to the Wheel Horse transaxle. Other manufacturers also used Sundstrand transmissions which all used the same pump/transmission (the part in the finned aluminum housing) and that was probably the source of the 90-2070 pump/transmission which bolts directly to the Wheel Horse configuration. You shouldn.t have to separate the hydraulic motor as shown in your second photo, just remove the casting it bolts to unless you feel a need to take "EVERYTHING" apart. If you do go in there be very clean and cautious. The mating surfaces are machined to tight tolerances and any scratches or other marks will ruin it. If you open it this is all you would see. @daveoman1966 has a lot of good information in the thread you linked to, he is the Sundstrand Go To man on this site.

The Onan carbs are not especially complicated, though they can seem so on initial viewing since the air cleaner housing is so large and the linkages for throttle & choke are a bit more involved. A LOT depends on the year of your engine, but for all of them (IMHO) the best way to thoroughly clean is via immersion in an ultrasonic bath and, as @Ed Kennell noted, it can take multiple trips--mine needed three, as well, having come to me pretty neglected. When, or if, I have to do mine again, and given the time and parts being invested, I would just take it out once, clean the dickens out of it, and put it back with fingers crossed. Three removals and installs was just too tedious for me. You’ll need the carb kit, two intake gaskets, and the carb-to-manifold gasket. The image below is my “spare” from one of the later engines which has no after-factory adjustments due to rules introduced to limit small engine emissions in the ‘90s! The main jet is fixed. The “idle mixture” adjustment is sealed at the factory behind a plug. The Welsh Plug covers several internal channels. The accelerator pump adjustment is also factory sealed. The pump and the choke balance spring (also preset) help prevent the deliberately lean running engine from stumbling from fuel starvation when the throttle is opened. To clean this one, I’ll remove the main jet and the Welsh plug as well as opening the upper body. Welsh plugs cannot be reused so you’ll need a new one--0.375”. I will NOT mess with the accelerator pump or the choke spring, temping as that might be. I’ll repeatedly force carb cleaner under pressure through every orifice and channel I can find between tank sessions. This shows the full intake manifold and one of the bolts holding the carb to the manifold from below. The manifolds are in two parts, factory sealed together. Some have the sealant age and deteriorate allowing air to leak in, this is what @ri702bill’s suggestion above aims to detect. We can explain remedies if you find you need them!

I actually only bought this one to clean/fix and resell. Already have someone after it, that’ll make my wife happy

? you know, lizards lay out in the sun warming up

Rebuild kit for a Carter carb - 25 757 02-S Rebuild kit for a Walbro carb - 45-053-71, 45 053 71, 47 053 72 These kits do not come with any shaft components though. If you have a Carter carb and the shaft bushing on the butterfly shaft are worn, it could suck air past it. There is a recess in the body for the bushing. Bushing size is 7/16"od X 1/4"id x 1/8" thick, or 2 bushings that are 1/16" thick.

Dad always used sea foam so I do Could anyone post a brief summary. I can't listen to that dude for twenty minutes

Stabil is not very stable. Here is what the carb bowl looked like after only a couple of months. That yellowish stuff has the texture of gummy bears and really messed up the whole carb. I no longer use any sort of fuel additive...just buy non-ethanol gas is the solution. This is the carb from a K241s engine.

You can tell if the intake is the issue by spraying a low-volatile hydrocarbon spray like WD40 at the various intake sealing surfaces while it is running. Spray & the surge goes away, there's your vacuum leak. No change if the intake is OK. Do not use spray ether starting fluid...

@19richie66

I have been using Stabil in every can of gas that comes into my shop for years and have had no fuel problems.

I'd plan for at least 40,41,42.... - 45 is unlikely the problem if you are able to shift between high and low easily and it doesnt grind or anything once in either range.. Likewise 44 is unlikely to be the issue (True, it can come unthreaded but that usually leads to simple mis-alignment and once shifted will tend to stay in that position) what was most common in my experience especially given the milky trans oil, was the detent spring rusted and broke and/or the detent ball jammed in the hole - second most common was abusive shifting that bent the shift fork (40) and third was excessive wear on the shift fork (due to someone side loading the range lever) and it simply wore through and would not shift at all despite the shift lever moving between high and low ranges. So in any case I would expect to replace at least the fork, spring and ball (We always kept them in stock at the dealership I worked at, if that tells you anything... they weren't FAST-MOVING , but we did enough of them to justify keeping at least 1 fork on hand.)

So now we know why you bought it.

I have a friend who owns a machine shop with a laser. Then Ill use his press for the bends to make them exact. I’ll have him make me 10 of each to see what the demand for them is. I know it’s not a super cool process but its efficient.

It lives! I think I found everything I needed except for a few small fasteners. Tires held air for long enough to see that it moves forward and reverse. All hydraulics seem to work. Gauges don't all work, but I'm not too concerned about that. Now I've got to dig out the snowblower and mower deck. The only real issue is the brake. It is pretty sticky. I sprayed and greased everything really good, that may just need to be worked back and forth to break it in. I'm not sure. I'm just happy it runs so well after being left for so long. Seems a shame it sat so long only needing a coil and fuel pump.

I would do a kerosene flush and see if it improves. You might have to split the case and would probably end up doing it anyway.

Is it not sparking and not starting? If the engine is running good, then they're both working. As in most instances, changing out the original OEM components for the junk they make and sell today is a big downgrade. Points do not necessarily need to be changed unless they are badly pitted on the contacts. Cleaning the contact surfaces is usually enough. If the engine runs above idle then the condenser is working.

LOTS done with the Wheelhorses and trailers today! Earlier today I got the newly acquired and painted steel weights from @Sparky on my 1974 C160-8 Cinnamon Horse. We used Cinnamon to yank this project trailer outta its hole. Someone else can tackle it... Then we cleaned out the slot of forest it was in. Trim. Rake. Blown leaves. Cut sticks etc... Now the big 7 x 16 flatbed trailer has a home. Trina and her momma been working on firewood again today. Super friggin hot 🔥 🥵 so momma takes lots of breaks. The shed is full. 2.5 cord. The barn overhang is starting to get there too.

Nuther good start crabbing yesterday. never know what may come up in a crab trap. The beach crowd thinned out so we decided to walk the 80 miles to Ocean City. 79 mile to go. 20-40 MPH winds today so time to relax. Few more crabbers just rolled in.

yup --- make the drive about 15 miles to fill up with the jugs with non ethanol --- hard to specifically predict long term the effect but will be interesting over time if any obvious or noticable difference -- been using it a for a couple years

Happy Happy Nubbies

Happy Birthday, Mr. Give Away!

Happy Birthday Richie, thank you for all you do for us.

Well I dug into the transmission out of my one tractor that broke a few months ago and there are two random ball thingies that almost look the the ends of shifters, it's a lot rustier and crustier than we originally thought, and the needle bearings for the axels left the chat a loooong time ago; we we almost through the outer races. And I just learned how to use the emojis on Red square.

New member, glad to find this group. Just pulled this 520H out of my neighbor's parent's shed yesterday. When they parked it 15 years ago, it only needed a coil. Parts everywhere. I ordered a fuel pump, a coil, and new filters. Parts should be here later today, hopefully I can get it to run. Although I'm sure the carb needs to be soaked. Looking forward to posting my progress.

Thank you. So to make sure I understand where the points are located.. they are under this vertical cover in this photo? Also how do I tell if a coil or condenser needs to be replaced or is going bad?

Use your finger to gently push the points open. Look in the small opening at the contacts. They should appear smooth, if the have burned spots, sandpaper like pitting or tips on them they should be filed with a points file or replaced. Remove the spark plug (releases compression) and roll the engine over by hand to the position that the points are the widest open. The book setting is for the points to have a 0.020ths gap as measures with a feeler gage shown in the above picture. Sometimes an engine will run better if they are open slightly less or more.

If you ever get a hankerin' to toss a couple 42" plows off the truck up in Athol lemme know...

84 hour fast (not counting the half n half in coffee) 10.8 lbs lost in 4 days! To ease back in to feeding I had a Kind protein bar. Dark Chocolate Nut. Low carb. A decent source of fats, fiber, and energy without overloading. A few hours and I'll find more...

I got the rest of the frame tacked together and the charger, batteries, and a few tool holders mocked up. Then I started cutting and bending the adjustable tool holders.