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Got the 418-8 ready for plowing. Took the tiller off and replaced some leaking axle seals.

New member, glad to find this group. Just pulled this 520H out of my neighbor's parent's shed yesterday. When they parked it 15 years ago, it only needed a coil. Parts everywhere. I ordered a fuel pump, a coil, and new filters. Parts should be here later today, hopefully I can get it to run. Although I'm sure the carb needs to be soaked. Looking forward to posting my progress.

LOTS done with the Wheelhorses and trailers today! Earlier today I got the newly acquired and painted steel weights from @Sparky on my 1974 C160-8 Cinnamon Horse. We used Cinnamon to yank this project trailer outta its hole. Someone else can tackle it... Then we cleaned out the slot of forest it was in. Trim. Rake. Blown leaves. Cut sticks etc... Now the big 7 x 16 flatbed trailer has a home. Trina and her momma been working on firewood again today. Super friggin hot 🔥 🥵 so momma takes lots of breaks. The shed is full. 2.5 cord. The barn overhang is starting to get there too.

Everyone meet Jerry, Jerry meet everyone. my 5 year old stepson wanted to have a skeleton on a tractor. He went with his mom to go see his sister at her college this weekend. Can’t wait til he sees it. I’m going to get a different skeleton for the one who’s getting mowed up. Now the wheels are turning on getting Jerry some friends doing other crazy things. He’s temporarily mowing with my 12auto until I get the rusty 14-8 up from out back.

The BBT aka Lead Logging Supervisor and I went off to the right side forest to get a few pieces of standing dead trees. 3? Small ash. A couple small maples. We sectioned them to 84" because we use 14" cuts of firewood. 6 pieces there. We hand hauled those 40 to 60 feet out to the pole trailer. Then brought that to the upper yard.

At a local show today I scored this C-111 with a plow/weights/2 link chains for cheap $$$. No idea what my plan is. I really don’t need another plow here, sold off a couple plows this summer so I only have 5…and today I added another one back Into the mix

Since October 5 is always National Get Funky Day, follow orders! As “One Nation Under a Groove,” we have a collective opportunity to pay homage to the power and majesty of The Funk. We’re not talking funk as in depressing, but funk as in get-happy-and-celebrate-life! National Get Funky Day is the brainchild of Funkytown Fitness, a fitness center in St. Augustine, Florida. After Hurricane Matthew slammed into Florida, a group of Funkytown Fitness folks assembled to create National Get Funky Day every year on October 5 as a way to “help people break free of their comfort zones.” Today, make it funky anyway you want for as long as you want! To truly be funky you have to go dancing. Deep funk means you grab some 70s-era platforms, throw on a glittery outfit and hit the dance floor to some Parliament, Bootsy Collins or even Con Funk Shun. Most importantly, you can't have funk without lots of bass beats.

Better late than never…..

Welcome to the forum. If you scan through older threads and posts (use the search bar) for stuff related to to 520-H refurbs and maintenance, you’ll find a ton of useful stuff. Use Google if you want and include “wheelhorseforum” in the search text. The file section of the forum has a bunch of documentation -- user manuals, parts lists, and wiring diagrams. If you have the model number, we can tell you the year since that model wend through some interesting changes over its life. (The files don’t appear in Google results--they are visible only to logged in members via the forum page--put “tractor 19?? 520-H” where ?? are the rest of the year in the search bar and choose the options “use all my search terms” and “documents” or “files Since we love pictures, be sure to remember to take them! Lastly, please consider starting a new topic for your progress--that way, it’s easier for us to keep track and posts don’t get “lost” in this more general topic. p.s. finding your way around and introductions and guidelines are all helpful and, In a blatant pitch to have you become a supporter, I’ll point out that supporter's searches run faster and their limit on space for uploaded photos is sky-high. Plus, you get your name in RED

I had a little help from Jada to move the tape back and forth while squaring the structure. Saves the steps on this old body

The addiction did it to you,

I've been reluctant to put a deck on any of my tractors but I need to chop leaves so am going to put bearings in a mule drive and just do it. Looks expensive for two bearings but isn't everything expensive these days?

Just put one 4 inch wheel in the front.

What is the plant providing the shade ?

The C-111 has this decal on the engine shroud. My buddy texts me this morning and asks if I’m wrenching on the single mom

Sparky, you have a magnified issue of what we all suffer from. My seggestion..."Put the Lime in the Cocoanut" and call me in the morning.

Straightened the plow angle rod on a plow I bought yesterday, believe it or not it was still operating while bent in that serious arc!

I'd say more likely the detent ball & spring either stuck or spring broke (typically rust) Better fix it ASAP , or you'll also be needing to replace the shifter fork (if it isnt already bad) as placing that side load on the lever , the fork & gear wear into each other.... But yes it does involve splitting the transmission (and getting those hubs off)

This has been my view last couple weeks. It’s harvest time in Indiana. And finally had to break down and buy different pickup. Wheel-horse red of course. Busy time for me but always have time for a red square check in

Well it's leaning.

Snuck out early this morning and reshot the hood. Looks like crap up close. Got more fish eyes in it than a commercial fishing trawler. Oh well good enough I'm done chasing this thing. Hopefully I can buff some of it out when it cures in a week or so. At least no bugs got in it. Hood is just propped up right now. I gotta make some changes to the mount.

Eileen...

It lives! I think I found everything I needed except for a few small fasteners. Tires held air for long enough to see that it moves forward and reverse. All hydraulics seem to work. Gauges don't all work, but I'm not too concerned about that. Now I've got to dig out the snowblower and mower deck. The only real issue is the brake. It is pretty sticky. I sprayed and greased everything really good, that may just need to be worked back and forth to break it in. I'm not sure. I'm just happy it runs so well after being left for so long. Seems a shame it sat so long only needing a coil and fuel pump.

Well I dug into the transmission out of my one tractor that broke a few months ago and there are two random ball thingies that almost look the the ends of shifters, it's a lot rustier and crustier than we originally thought, and the needle bearings for the axels left the chat a loooong time ago; we we almost through the outer races. And I just learned how to use the emojis on Red square.

Eileen it is! Now I will have to explain the name when people question it

That decal is worth whatever you paid for the whole deal. Aaannnddd..... That's how a tractor gets its name!

Throttle and choke cables installed, side panels cleaned up, headlights are in... Looking a lot better than the shabby frame I got it as!

You done good to remove the hub without breakage. I've had three rods on & Broken one. Now I ALWAYS use 5 rods.

One reason a condenser goes bad is water following the wire down to the condenser seal and moisture gets inside. Avoid power washing that area. IF at all possible, invert the conderser to have the wire point downward....

That is slick!!!

Thanks, but I'm really no painting guru. I try to follow manufacturers' recommendations to the letter for surface prep, painting, re-coating, etc., which 'usually' keeps me out of trouble. That, and a bit of practice. Making the paint shiny is primarily a matter of maintaining a continuous wet edge, which is challenging with rattle cans and fast-drying paint. Some newer spray cans come with selectable spray patterns, which can help. It's easier with a paint gun that applies a wider swath of paint so that previous passes are still wet when the next pass is made. The secret (IMHO), whether you're using spray cans or a gun, is good visibility. You need to have light coming from angles that allow you to see how the paint is going on---applying enough to be wet but not so wet that it runs. Leveling and drying retarder additives can be handy for some jobs. I don't know what to tell you regarding the use of 2K paint/clear coat under the deck, as I've never used it for that purpose. Maybe someone else could weigh in on that question. Some people recommend applying used oil, allowing it to soak in and (depending on the type of oil) bake dry in the sun. I haven't tried that yet. Over the years (a lot of them), I've had fairly good luck by cleaning out grass deposits on a regular basis, since they hold moisture for a long time, promoting rust. For the deck that I posted in this thread, I pressure-washed the underside, removed any rust that wasn't firmly adhered (wire brush wheel, needle scaler, flap disc, etc.), degreased and pressure-washed it again, and let it dry completely in the sun for a couple of days to help eliminate trapped moisture before applying a few coats of rusty metal primer, which is fairly thin, seems to penetrate quite well, and sticks well to firmly-adhered rust. For clean, bare metal, I like self-etching primers, which often contain zinc phosphate for added corrosion protection. In the old days, zinc chromate was commonly used, but it's more dangerous to work with.

Oh you ain’t getting off that easy……. you posted here so you are in. Everyone has a chance. It’s part of being in red. Might as well get a little perk other than the great content and lifelong friendships. If you win, and can’t use the cover, we’ll figure something out and draw another name for it. We’ll make things work. Thanks 👍

My latest car came with 20” wheels. I thought “this is just extra bling to boost the price." I admit that I was wrong. The larger overall diameter and the advances in tire tread/carcass/and banding (and I’m sure some better suspension dynamics) were a revelation in handling compared to my 2004 with 16” wheels.

I actually have a thing for all garden tractors, regardless of manufacturer. My Current collection Cub Cadet Original Garden Tractor Cub Cadet 60 Rear engine rider Cub Cadet 70 Garden Tractor Cub Cadet 106 Garden Tractor Cub Cadet 1450 Garden Tractor Cub Cadet 2182 Garden Tractor Cub Cadet 3208 Garden Tractor Cub Cadet XT3 GSX Garden Tractor Cub Cadet Z-Force SX54 Zero turn Ingersoll 3016PS Garden Tractor John Deere 110RF Garden Tractor John Deere 112SF Garden Tractor John Deere 140H3 Garden Tractor John Deere GX335 Garden Tractor John Deere X748 Garden Tractor John Deere Sabre 1542 HS Lawn Tractor Simplicity Wonder-Boy Rear Engine Rider Wheel Horse 416H Garden Tractor White GT2055 Garden Tractor John Deere 2025R TLB Compact Tractor The Deere-painted label on the walls matched my former 1025R hood label. The barn addition is white on the inside but has 5 doors, each painted a different tractor color. Deere Green and Yellow, Wheel Horse Red, Cub Cadet Yellow, Allis Orange (non-working doorway), and Ford Blue (non-working doorway)

You can't have an odd # of plows!

Here’s a couple more… +4 D-Series, C-81, 418-A, and 8/4 speed

Here’s 6 of 14 or something

My latest purchase:

Trina decided the camper needed the lights and flamingo here in the yard.

With only 3 tires …. Tripod

If that's a 48" @Maz91 might be interested. 42".... I've being mulling over combining a couple for a big V.

The 10 through 14 HP engines are physically identical and have 9 cylinder head bolts. The 16 HP has 10 head bolts. The only infallible way to determine the size of a 10 to 14 HP is to remove the cylinder head and measure the bore and stroke.

What hole do you have the lift flag in on the lifting arm? The flag pin should be in this hole. If you put it in the other hole it will be hard to lift and the lift tube will hit the front axle before the lift handle locks.

Yesterday, I organized and consolidated the parts for my tractors. I took a few of the ones that sit more like the 308 for a little ride to clean them out, pumped up tires etc… I also added some cushioning to the C-141 as I took it on a quarter mile ride to a neighbors to do some yard work. Granted, while it is a tractor and almost 50 the vibrating parts buzzing got old after a while.

Almost finished overhauling the 48-inch side-discharge mower deck for the GT18. Here's what I've done so far, more or less: Degreased and pressure washed the deck, inside and out...three times. Sanded areas of rust and flaking paint. Welded three small cracks that were just getting started. Straightened one of the anti-scalp wheel mounting brackets. Primed the underside with three coats of rusty metal primer and primer-sealer. Primed and painted the top. One of the spindle body castings was broken and another was corroded, so I replaced all three castings with new aftermarket ones. Tossed out the other parts that came with the new aftermarket spindles, due to quality and correctness issues. Installed new OEM Toro bearings in the spindles. Re-installed the original OEM bearing spacer sleeves. Installed one new Toro OEM spindle shaft, one good used Toro shaft, and re-installed one of the original spindle shafts. Installed new bolts/nuts of the correct sizes and types for the pulleys, blades, spindle mounts, and various brackets. Upgraded the plastic washer and bushing set for the sliding idler pulley bracket to a bronze bushing and UHMW polyethylene washers, which should be low-friction and impact resistant. Welded new axles (shoulder bolts) onto the anti-scalp wheel adjusting plates (as previously posted). Miscellaneous other repairs. I still need to install the new blades, a few more fasteners, and the chute, and it should be ready to mow. I haven't decided if I'm going to fab up some sheet metal to make a couple of belt/pulley guards. Before: Mostly done:

Piece by piece, I'm gradually getting the paint sorted on my GT18. Here are the steps in fixing up one of the foot rests: A fair amount of rust had developed under the rubber mat: I slathered on a thick coat of CitriStrip, wrapped it in a polyethylene sheet, and let it sit for a few hours. About 98% of the paint came right off without any scrubbing or scraping: Here's how it looked after washing off the CitriStrip and removing a few bits of remaining paint: Next, I let the foot rest sit in a phosphoric acid bath for a while, which took care of most of the rust, and then hit any stubborn remaining pockets with my spot blaster. (Note: I don't use phosphoric acid on high-strength or hardened steel, since I want to avoid hydrogen embrittlement.) I applied the initial coat of self-etching primer, which contains zinc phosphate: Then I filled the pits with 3M High-Bond filler and sanded it flat: Here it is after more primer coats: And after a few coats of paint: Now on to the next one.

Let it bake in the sun