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National Silent Movie Day takes place on September 29 each year. National Silent Movie Day is a day to celebrate and enjoy silent movies. But, what is a silent movie? A silent movie is a film with no accompanying, synchronized, recorded spoken dialogue. Watching a movie combining motion pictures with recorded sound seems obvious, but movies did not have any sound at first. It was mainly because of the technical challenges involved. Combining motion pictures with recorded sound is nearly as old as the motion picture itself.

The Kohler Breakerless ignition system that you have either works well or not at all. If it is workring it has advantages over the Battery points system. No points to corrode or need adjusting... timing is perfect... I would leave it alone, it may run for years...if it does die then convert.

Rolled into crab camp at 3PM and moved in for the week. And the relaxing begins.

Now that we have high jacked Eric’s thread, and changed it to conversation on dielectric grease I’d like to add something. First I’d like to thank @wh500special for using words in post 134 like “parsimonious” that I almost had to look up! 😂 Second, I really didn’t even know I was using dielectric grease incorrectly. For years I would clean the contacts in the electrical plugs on my Fisher snowplow with electrical contact cleaner and then apply dielectric grease until it oozed out and then wipe off the excess. I never had a problem with those connections and it kept the water, salt and corrosion away. Third, here we are talking about grease and where is @peter lena?

A good start for crabby Ed.

Other side just for giggles...

Over Cape May just now.

All painted……for now. It’s a worker but it seems to be better than the last paint job so far.. And I preliminarily painted the belt cover with a spray can for The C-85 since it was off a Workhorse. Your turn @kpinnc.😁

Happy birthday Paul! Thanks for all you do for the Wheel Horse community!

I dunno... at WOT the incredible g forces that these bolts experience...

It’s true that dielectric grease is an insulator by definition, but I’m of the opinion it’s preferred in an application like a trailer wiring connector if your goal is to prevent water entry and corrosion of the mating metallic conductive surfaces. Conductive greases would seem better, but you’re going to have a hard time keeping them from migrating from the application site and they can easily bridge the space between adjacent pins and create undesirable stray currents and shorts. With standard dielectric grease, you’re relying on the pins and sockets to scrape away the grease at the local junction for continuity when you make the connection. I would expect the incidence of this NOT working is exceptionally small where there is high enough voltage and current to bust through the connection I think the key is to be parsimonious with the application of the non-conductive grease. Less is more and all you’re trying to do is keep the pins and sockets from corroding when the connector is open to air. Plus, a big lump of grease will hold a lot of dirt and schmutz that will find its way inside the contacts. You could, I suppose, also use the conductive stuff and carefully coat only the surfaces that matter and remove all the excess that might extrude out, but I think the risk of cross talk is high enough to not merit this level of fussiness. That marine forum snippet looks like it was probably from Jim Hebert as he used to post a lot on the Boston Whaler (Continuous Wave) and Evinrude forums. In general, if jimh posted an observation or made a recommendation you can take it to the bank as being well-reasoned and technically accurate. He’s right, dry contacts are better and no lube would be needed on the actual contact surfaces. But I think he’s also specifically talking about the sealed deutsch connectors that are ubiquitous on an Evinrude (and other outboards) that might occasionally go for a swim. When joined, these connectors rarely get water inside them as they have sealing O-rings, gaskets, and glands. I don’t know that dielectric grease is the best thing to use on a trailer wiring pigtail, but I am of the opinion that conductive greases aren’t a good fit. My trailers (and the truck receptacle) get an occasional spritz of aerosol dielectric grease to keep the water off the metal contacts when they are uncoupled. I’ve convinced myself it’s helpful. Steve

Picked up a 169 over the weekend. I might have over paid for it, but i know these are pretty uncommon. Has a deck, integral hitch and plow. Has a cracked oil pan from an over tightened drain plug and a brush paint job, but I'll be excited to get this one going again! Also the muffler is in great shape so thats a plus!

The front tab doesn't actually touch the foot peg. There is a frame underneath between the rear axle housing and bolted to the underside of the frame.

Over Coopersville 5 minutes ago.

I've used these 1 1/2" long ones from MMC and they work fine. Use with removable thread locker. 242

And use steel cotter pins...

No need for anything longer. I've used this size on all my tractors and they work as stud for wheels and for using spacers. One suggestion- use 4 bolts per wheel and keep one open for the OEM bolts. One hole is very close to the setscrew for the hub (see pic below) and makes loosening the setscrew a bit tricky. Use 7/16×20 bolts on the other four for each wheel from the back with lug nuts and they will line the wheel up nicely so you can add the 5th as a bolt from the front. Most lug nuts are 1/2×20. Make sure you get 7/16×20 lug nuts. The jungle site has them cheap.

Mine still works. If it ever quits, you can convert to points from the outside. The pin hole for the points push rod is plugged but easily removed. New keyswitch, coil, points, and cables. Easy but not cheap fix. You basically have to rewire the whole thing.

From @WHX?? post:

Readily available.

How did they get so many videos of "The Early Days of @Pullstart Stables?"

I took out some tractors I had stored in my enclosed trailer to put different ones in to go to a show yesterday. When I got home I didn’t feel like reloading them so I just put them in the garage.

@MainelyWheelhorse. If you want to change up the hood, and your cool with not being 100% original maybe add stripes ?

Decided to tackle this non-running C-141A I bought Friday. Looks like the original owner had starting issues and took the wrong turn at every step along the way. They even went so far as to direct wire a push-button start (with 12 gauge wire)! So, I basically cut away a half mile of unnecessary wiring, rerouted the remaining wires where they belonged. Also swapped out an incorrect coil, solenoid, condenser, and fried points. Set the points timing, fuel looked and smelled fresh, so I just replaced with a proper filter. Oil in engine and hydro looked new, Hit key - started! Aired tires, drove tractor, tested hydraulic lift, attached deck, and mowed several strips in the empty park behind our property. Outstanding day 1 results!

I did have to look it up... Wow talk about if the shoe fits ...

Pic below shows the correct spring placement on the engagement peddle. The spring puts rotational tension on the trip lever as well as putting tension on the PTO belt.

Loop head of a cotter pin at both ends. Simple and effective. Other blade numbers: 7906, 7907 NOS (I don’t know if these have a different shape or not) Try https://davespartsworld.com. He had at least one 8014 set at the Big Show

On the jacks EB. Some places still need extra blocks. The jacks work best at 3/4 or less extended. We all use a impact with a 3/4 socket. Not supposed to but these jacks are almost giveaways at rv places if one wrecks. Keep well lubed says greasy Pete

It clips on the cotter pin on the pedal linkage and another cotter pin on the frame

Yes it actually runs fine but I would rather convert it now when I have some time and eventually its going to be my kids tractor and im the electrician .

I use the wrench from my table saw. It's the correct size and is thin enough to fit without binding.

Do you have the lift mechanism(s) for the sleeve hitch? The 169 was the first Cub Cadet with a 16 hp engine, and may have been the first in the L&G industry (I'll have to actually do more research to prove that). While the 147 was the first for the 14 hp in CC's line, the 169 was in the next series of CC's.

Here's a video for ya in case ya need a nap.

Made some footrests. This one is done, done, done! Before and after as well as a close up of the back plate.

Guys, Thanks for the help. The additional information should help me. John

Actually the 36" are available and the 32" aren't. And I need a pair of 32's but I'm not paying $150 +++ for them!

@kpinnc @ri702bill just the idea of improving A REPEDITIVE ISSUE , is the most important part of this , in my own opinion , once you change / correct it , its just simply better / easier , pete

This would be a great opportunity to clean out the carburetor, inspect the intake manifold for leaks, glass bead and paint the exhaust, decarbon the heads and adjust the valves.

Yep I have all of that stuff. The 169 was one year only in 1974 and they produced 4,005 of them, in 75 they went to the quiet line series which would be a 1650 cub. Wheel Horse had the no name 16 Auto in 1973 so they technically might have been first. I can tell you though that the 169 is a much heavier machine than a 16 auto, my back can confirm that after taking 3 men and a horse to push that up in the bed of my truck lol

The struggle is real. “I ain’t here for a long time, I’m here for a good time!”

It's finally ready to go to the show this weekend I drove it around today and it did good

I had a big ten with a lawn vac on it. I miss the tractor but not the vac lol

It's stick bug season!

The mule drive belt is 1/2" x103 or WH 102742. There are two spacers on the mule drive just from my bad memory the 5/8" goes on the outside next to the cover. The other spacer is wider around 3/4" goes between the inside v-groove and the flat idler. The spacer is WH 101734, Partstree has it for $5 .49.

Please don't scrap them... another candidate post for "Free" in the classified section here on Redsquare"...

Did a little clearing work behind the shed. Weeds and debris were taking over. Not sure what the plan is for this spot just yet.

Got bored and couldn't sleep, so I stickered some grip tape on the footrests. Hopefully It'll hold up.