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National Pizza Day in Brazil is celebrated on July 10 every year. Sao Paulo is Brazil’s pizza capital because a section of its population is of Italian descent. The ‘oriundi,’ or Italian descendants, in Brazil number around 25 million, and an estimated 10 million live in Sao Paulo. Nearly 25 million pizzas are eaten every month in Sao Paulo. On National Pizza Day in Brazil, pizzerias hold events and restaurants offer discounts. Tourists get the opportunity to taste rare pizzas, including some made with ice cream, chocolate truffles, and even fruit.

Need I say anything?!?!? Just glad it's off my trailer ... room for a real ...

Sometimes when I make a vehicle or motorcycle or other big-project purchase... I start a thread in a related forum to track what I do with it. I've currently got active threads for two vehicles and one motorcycle in three different forums, and I was pleased to find this forum a few weeks ago when I started shopping for a WH. This forum is an incredible resource, and it's clear there's a wealth of knowledge and experience in the member base here... A couple of years ago, I picked up a 518xi with 2-stage snow thrower and 48" deck for my father. He loves the think, and it's a tank. He only uses it for winter duty, and he offered up his deck if I were able to find a tractor for it. So, after a few weeks of poking around FB Marketplace, I picked up a 1998 520Lxi with 588 hours. It came with a 4' plow, 48" mower deck, wheel weights and chains, a belt-driven blower and bagger, and a milk crate full of random parts. The seller reported an issue with the battery not charging, and he replaced the regulator to no improvement. I'm thinking the problem probably lies with the stator, but I'll get to that later. The day I unloaded it at home, I removed the bagger and blower and mowed about 80% of my overgrown lawn before the PTO engagement started acting up (a clue that the battery might be getting low on power), and the next time I shut down the mower, it wouldn't restart. I left it on a charger for a few hours and finished up the lawn. One problem I was seeing was that the water temperature light was coming on solid for maybe 30-60 seconds, and then going back out. The temperature gauge looks good. I plan to flush the coolant and change the oil soon anyway, so I didn't worry too much about it. In the back of my mind, though, are the plastic gears in the water and oil pumps that apparently plagued this model/year. I did take my leaf blower to the engine bay and cleared out a bunch of clippings, but that didn't resolve the light coming on. Yesterday, I decided I'd take a look a the air filter, and... oh, my. A desiccated mouse and his kingdom of debris were packed tightly around more than half of the airbox. Maybe that explains my temperature issues (real or otherwise)? I've got a paper filter on the way. I did not order an outer foam filter, and I wonder if it's necessary to have one. I'm going to be able to keep the mice away from the tractor from now on out, at least. I haven't started the tractor yet since cleaning out the box, but I don't expect it to run worse...! I put the plow, deck, blower, and bagger in the Classifieds and on FB Marketplace. A guy about 2 hours north of here said he'd take the lot. I'll be driving that way in a few weeks anyway, so I plan to deliver it to him. I've got a lot going on this summer, so I'm hoping to find time here and there to change fluids in the WH and find a snow thrower so I can use it this winter.

Started this project about 5 years ago during that time was looking for parts for it findly was able to get the rest of the parts I need at the wheel horse show it was in bad shape like my 704 was

5F6E9877-466D-4EBE-850C-379B10EE66D8.mov I along with my fathers assistance got the 1978 C-141 Frankenstein running and moving after 2 months of steady work and an education in Wheel Horse electronics.

To this so far it will come back to life this winter

Deck maintenance day (well, need more than one day, not finished yet). Two 48" SD's cleaned up, lubed, and blades sharpened. Third one just came off, will get to that one this weekend. Been a lot of mowing going on here lately, and the last time, I got caught in the rain and hence had a lot of wet grass clumped up in the deck. Got the pressure washer out and gave it a good bath. Not sure the other 2 will get a bath this time around but at least scraped the dried grass out from underneath and sprayed on some rust deterrent. Don't know if anyone else uses these little 3-wheel dollies from HF but they sure make sliding the decks in and out a lot easier. Still need to check all the fluids in the tractors and maybe give some of them a bath also this weekend.

There's evidence the belt is also rubbing at the back of the tower. The engine or engine pulley on the shaft needs to be moved outward just a tad so it doesn't rub there. It might also be possible to slightly bend the arm holding the idler pulley out just a tad. There's evidence that tab on the idler is rubbing the belt as well. Hence all of the belt dust right after it. If that belt length is correct and since you have the pulley off, use a crescent wrench, tightened on to the tab and bend it upwards about 1/16-1/8" and that should stop the rubbing. For the belt slap check all of the pulley grooves. One little bump on them will cause the belt to slap and wobble which also causes the pedal to vibrate back and forth. New belts can also cause that because of the "memory" in them from the packaging. Stress the belt by running it under heavy load

This solved my issue, thank you all so much!! Moved it up about 1/4" and no more teeth jumping...Wheel on!

Mandatory? Probably not. I recommend using these since they do a good job catching the larger stuff to extend the life of the paper filters and are washable to extend their own life.

I see that now Richard. The earlier posts were talking Sundstrand. Thanks for the update. Probably much easier to redo the 8speed.

Thank you, thats what i needed to hear. I will rebuild the C160 trans and put the 520 on the back burner.

Belt should be 1/2" x 70". It does look like the belt is being rubbed by the guide on the top. If the belt was shorter, the pulley would stop further forward. I would make sure that the belt is correct. The guide on the idler has nothing to do with stopping the belt. That is done by the belt cover and the tabs over and under the drive pulley. @953 nut may be onto something with the pulley size.

The outer collar style are used dry (and might degrade if oiled). When the foam was the only filter element, then they were oiled.

Hasn't he started on his "MASTERS" degree ? Definitely earned enough credits.

That's really not in bad shape at all, unless you want a shiny brand new look. They are only original once. Buff it out and clear coat it, and paint the wheel and it will look just fine. All depends on what you want to do with it. Work it or trailer queen.

Treated myself to a Milwaukee M18 trim router today. Needed a router to break edges in the Murphy bed i'm building. Had the bits here in Mi. but my router is in Mo. It is a neat little machine. Capable, accurate depth adjustment. The Murphy bed project is in the painting stage now. Hopefully, it will go into final assembly tomorrow.

I've done that exact same thing before. It's main purpose is to keep the belt on the pulley. Secondary is use as a belt stop.

Government jobs in PA are not as good as they used to be. The state nixed a lot of it's better benefits pre-Covid and doesn't pay very well. I haven't ruled them out, but most are not really what I am looking for. I would like to own my own shop, and I keep an eye out for ones going up for sale, but so far I have only found detail shops up for sale. I also already take in as much side work as I can, but I don't generate the volume I need to transition off full-time work at the dealership, and I have to be very careful with zoning issues as I'm in a residential area. I have also looked into the instructor positions. I like that idea because I enjoy teaching my trade and have had a number of apprentices over the years. Most went on to become successful techs, one just settled an insurance lawsuit for $500K and is in semi-retirement. Unfortunately there are only two places around me with auto tech programs where I don't get 3 hours tied up in commuting every day, and so instructor positions can be hard to get. I should submit a resume to those places just to do it. I have also been looking for advisor positions. I know I can handle the desk because I have to do all that when I'm running my own one-man shop. We don't have any impending openings on the service desk that I am aware of (we have two other shops next town over from my location, I don't know what their upcoming staffing looks like), but I have been putting the word out to guys I know in other places to let me know if they hear something is about to come open. I've even been considering looking at bank teller positions. I know it isn't glamorous, but I think I could stomach it for a few years while re-doing a lot of my expired IT credentials.

Okay, I should have added the new belt is a 1/2" x 70" from Napa and the belt hopping was the old belt not the new. Also, I only ran it a minute or two before I could see something wrong and the belt had jumped off and was in between the pulley and the arm. That is why is was rubbing in places. There is too big a gap between the tab and the pulley in my opinion and I think I will cut and weld it back where I want it. Thanks for all the help guys, I will try my fix and get back to you!! Randy

While you have the idler pulley off, you can also easily use a long straightedge to check the alignment of the engine and transaxle pulleys. I’m suspicious, too, of the transaxle pulley being hugged in too tight against the transaxle case--the input shaft on the 3-speeds is quite short so some of those pulleys had their setscrew in the valley of the sheave

IMO, that tab on the idler pulley needs to be rotated forward so it pinches the belt and aids on stopping the belt from moving when the clutch is disengaged. The tab should not be close to the belt when the clutch is engaged and the belt is moving.

This popped up today. Steven Tyler walks up to the street performer who is singing an Aerosmith song. "I Don't Want to Miss a Thing" Not posted for a great performance but it's certainly interesting. That kid must've pee'd himself just a little. https://www.tiktok.com/@matheusmelosil/video/7524480466435476742?embed_source=121374463%2C121468991%2C121439635%2C121749182%2C121433650%2C121404359%2C121497414%2C121477481%2C121351166%2C121772354%2C121487028%2C121679410%2C121331973%2C120811592%2C120810756%2C121811796%3Bnull%3Bembed_blank&refer=embed&referer_url=iframely.publishing.yahoo.net%2FEqPwj2bb%3Fapp%3D1%26v%3D1&referer_video_id=7524480466435476742

I agree with highlighted above. Your knowledge behind the sales counter or some other part of the company is invaluable. Someone about to retire?--Maybe you could work a few months awaiting for a position to open. Best thing we did was be debt free at age 35. That sure opened up a lot of avenues that otherwise would have tied me to the old grindstone of work. We lived modestly, wife took all of her bonuses and applied to house payment that greatly reduced our payment period. So far, we don't buy if we don't have cash.

Turns out he is working with an 8 speed. @stevasaurus has a great thread to guide you through the rebuild.

I never used that glue but used a similar way for small stuff. I would coat veneer with white glue, wait about one hour when glue was dry to touch but not cured, and then iron it on. Heat melted and reactivated glue in same manner. I also extensively used hide glue melted in a pot for bigger jobs. Other times one of my favorites for veneering and other uses was what we called “brown glue” which is actually urea formaldehyde which comes in powder form and it is mixed with water.

looks like you had the same starter too! I just sent it back today. Oh well, my oem starter has been repaired and I need to go pick it up. $65 and he installed new brushes, cleaned it, and a new front gear assembly.

Dropped the transmission out of the 314-8 that I picked up at the show stuck in low range. I suppose there are a lot of different ways to drop a transmission. This is one way I do it. I put jack stands under the foot rest rods. Place the dolly under the center of the trans with a block. Jack up the front untill the trans rests on the block. I removed the high low pin and unbolt the trans from the frame. Low the jack a little so there is room to remove the high low shiftier. Of course I am splitting this one and have removed the hubs, brake drum and drive pulley. If anyone has a high low fork they are willing to part with let me know. tks.

I picked up a little 856 in nice shape. I replaced a few ends on the battery cables and cleaned out the tank before I even started it and it fired up and ran like a top except for the belt hopping up and down. I pulled the guard and the clutch pulley, pulley was in great shape and the belt was just chewed up. I bought a new belt and installed it this morning, but I didn't think the tab above the pulley looked like it was in the right place. But, you can see where it's welded and been there since new. I thought it should be rotated farther forward so it stopped the belt when the clutch is pushed in. The new belt jumped off right away and looks like too much space between the pulley and the tab to me when the clutch is pushed in. Here are some pics and appreciate the help!!!!

OK it went from a tractor show to a family reunion...

I am having my original K-181 starter off my B-80 rebuilt also! Best to have a backup!

Cool, that's where I'll get it then. I ordered the tire. Called my local shop, checked some other sources... and then gave in and ordered it when I couldn't reasonably get it anywhere else.

It's a bit of a drive for you but Rick n Ray's in Buxton may have a tire? You get in a jam I've definitely got something here but not that 7.5" wide. I have a pair of oddball 18" OD I'd let ya have that are "off size" Might work...... For OE Toro part numbers send an email to billsplaceshop.com Excellent service.

I'm not at all familiar with those engines but that looks maybe like a valve cover gasket leak (??)

@ Randy Littrell , while I agree with others on the correct belt size , think that original type idler pulley , could be the culprit , known for bearing hang up issues , that by itself can upset a belt function . pete

If you have a place to store stuff, I always keep one or two extra for most equipment on hand.

@horseman with no horse perfect time to improve those spindles , when you replace those bearings , also clean out and upgrade the lubrication , wide bearing side shields make this very easy , also detail in function of every related lever connection area , washer them up, lubricate for solid / smooth , connective action . totally clean out bearings , lucas x tra hd , green chassis grease , note 550 deg flash point . related mule drive , bearings can get the same improvement , these decks can operate very easily , mule drives , can also operate / engage smoothly / easily . done a number of these upgrades , so worth it , pete

It’s the incredible edible egg!

You bring the "biscuits". I'll volunteer my chipper.

The Mrs. and I are planning on being there Friday!

We'll do a similar clean out scramble - hash browns, ham, onion, peppers (sweet and hot), bacon, hot dogs, etc, etc and 3 scrambled eggs.

I've been lucky on most of my Wheel Horses getting the steering wheel off. That 312-8 I had to cut the shaft it had been stored out side before I got it. I cut it down low and added about 3" . You can see in that picture in the post above it's larger right below the battery support. It has the has the front spindle for 6" wheels and 8" wheel with 25" rear tires. The fender pan,. bracket and gas tand was raised 1 3/4". .

Tie 'em down three more in the hauler... Who's the fruit cake hauling a sno mobile to a tractor show?!?!?

Boy put a tractor ball on his tractor tonight. Mine is still sitting on time-out.

Through the wall behind the bench so the light lights the bench!

I gotta start figuring out where that Safari 390 is going! Upside down or right side up? Through the wall? Bench work light? Tool box?

Worked on the 314A that @c-series don gave me at the big show. When I brought it home and unloaded it, the engine ran fine but it but barely moved. I put it in the barn and planned to leave it for a winter project, but today curiosity got to me and I had to open it up. Got the choke cable freed up and working. Then pulled the tins off to find the problem that seemed to have the motion control system locked up. I disconnected the link to the cam plate and with some cleaning and lubrication, got full motion from the cam. The motion lever was still locked up. Then I saw it, the brake pedal spring was missing and allowed the pedal to fall down and lock the motion control lever in the neutral position. Duh ! Added a spring to pull the pedal up and all is well.