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hi men, just wanted to give a shoutout and say thank you to two members here. thank you daveoman for all the help (diagrams, pics, and your time and patience) to help me get my C160 auto tranny adjusted properly. works great now! thank you pfrederi for sending me the seals i needed to stop my bronco tranny from leaking. i had to pull the tranny out of the bronco and replace some seals on the shaft that goes to the white plastic motion control cam. PITA of a job but, no more leaks! paul sent me these for free. i know you guys like pics and i'm sorry i do not have any as i do not own a cell phone. being a member here is fantastic! best regards mike

My new flag was delivered yesterday.

And sometimes we get a pleasant surprise. I bought this hub for a job last week at a good price, (compared to OEM) When I got the hub, I noticed the high quality and markings of the maker's company and part #. Checked it out and found they are a huge USA manufacture since 1943

Made in the USA Day is celebrated on July 2 by consumers and manufacturers as a way of boosting sales for locally made products. The day is observed just before Independence Day when patriotic feelings are at an all-time high, which makes it an event of great splendor. Made in the USA Day encourages the manufacturing of goods in America and customers to choose these goods instead of those that are imported from elsewhere. The day also celebrates the companies and brands that manufacture their products in the United States, and who offer employment and top-quality services to their customers. If the products we purchase were made in the USA the Social Security trust fund and Medicare system would be more sustainable and our country would be more prosperous.

Started working on the road trip procurement I got last week. Guy said the stator was bad. Wasn’t getting fire. Traced wiring from coil to the seat switch and jumped it out as it is squashed and no good. Got it to pop but I don’t think the fuel pump is any good. More to come when the battery is charged up.

Thanks guys for all your kind words and compliments! @Ed Kennell the reflector fell off while my brother was driving it around at the Big Show. The guy is almost 60 years old and still has ants in his pants, can’t sit still, always on the move! So he bought me two new ones (because he was afraid one new one would not match the original one!) I still have to put them on. @ri702bill I thought about adding headlights, I actually have a NOS headlight bucket and lens. I’m not sure if I’ll do that or leave it factory original? And I probably will use it for some kind of light duty work? Just not sure what? @peter lena As of right now I’m going to leave it as is because there is not one squeak or rattle on the whole tractor, but don’t worry Pete I promise I’ll keep it lubed up wherever it is necessary. Once again I want to thank you guys for all your comments, and also remember it is you people that fuel my addiction for these tractors!! In the fall I’m hoping to get out my collection and recreate these photos, as it’s been seven years since I’ve done it. Since then I’ve acquired 5-6 more! My wife says this is getting a little ridiculous and I kinda agree, but I’ll never tell her that 🤣

A squirrel had chewed through a screen to get at some birdseed my wife had stored in the sunroom. Thankfully, she had closed the door to the house! Cleaned up bird seed and squirrel droppings and then replaced the mesh in the screen door for an 8’ Anderson slider. . My wife had been hesitant about reducing the local squirrel population before, but she’s on board now!

@c-series don My wife says this is getting a little ridiculous and I kinda agree, but I’ll never tell her that 🤣. There are way worse hobbies. Coke and hookers didn't work out so well for Charlie Sheen.

I was brought up learning that anytime I borrow something, it is my responsibility to repair or replace the item (owner's discretion) if I damage it, or it breaks while in my possession. When I was in my early 20s, I borrowed the neighbor's circular saw to make a quick repair to my parents' house on Cape Cod. My neighbor stored it in his open shed (in view of the beach). I took it home & plugged it in, and it began throwing sparks everywhere on the first cut. My fault for not testing it before I borrowed it. In any case, I replaced it with a brand new one and left it in my neighbor's shed when I was done. My loss, his gain, but that's the way it goes when I borrow something. This may be abnormal nowadays, but that's the way my parents raised me in the 60s & 70s. I think it's a good rule to go by.

I spent my evening convincing my dad he didn't break my boat. He borrowed it last weekend and brought it back today. The jack on the trailer wouldn't jack, because the nut on the handle was loose, and the front thruster didn't work for him, because the ground cable rotted off. I spent more time trying to get the thruster unlocked and stowed because the lock sticks and got stuck bad this time than I did figuring out and fixing the rest of it. But he thinks any time he borrows something from someone and something goes wrong it was his fault. I think he also forgets I'm about 30 years behind him in life (and finances) so where he can afford to buy nicer newer stuff, but isn't great at fixing things, I would rather buy older things that need a little (or sometimes a lot) of work because I don't always have the money, but I do have the skills.

Yep and I'll add. Voltage = pressure Amperge = flow Ohm = restriction (pipe friction, elbows) Switch = shutoff valve wire guage = pipe size

the two rules that all electrical theory hangs 1. You cant see it and 2. it will knock the h4ll out of you...

Hey guys! Electrics are easy if you know anything about plumbing: Battery = Water Tank Cable = Pipe Switch = Tap Voltage = Water Pressure Current = Current! (or flow rate) (The water analogy is why it's called current!) Resistor = a constriction Don't forget also that electric current has to have somewhere to go.....current won't flow from the battery into the lights (or the solenoid) if there is no earth connection...electrons don't spill all over the place like water does (unless the Voltage (Pressure!) is very very high!). A very common mistake therefore is to verify that the battery is connected to the switch and the switch to the lights but then ignore the fact that the other side of the lights and the -ve of the battery also have to be connected somehow...and they usually are by tortuous and often rusty means!

Can't recall if I mentioned that I have put fish in my little wildlife pond. I made a water cascade for it today, lump of stone with a 2 inch hole through it and an aluminum nozzle. Four little goldfish that should live for a long time. Home brewed barrel filter which is a biological filter with plants in to remove sediment and keeps the water clear.

If the engine will start by jumping the solenoid then the then the grounds are doing their job. Is the solenoid properly grounded? With the transmission in neutral and the wheels blocked take a small jumper wire from the battery "+" to the small terminal of the solenoid that comes from the ignition switch via the safety switches. This should close the solenoid and turn over the starter.

Or you could just use the Harley Muffler.

Howdy folks been a while. Life's been busy but we've managed to get some done decided to do something different. A lot more to come plan is hopefully fit this fine machine with a 30+ hp diesel i do have one in mind just gotta make it happen. And yes I still have the original parts I took a parts 520 and repainted the sheet metal so we still have the originals.

@c-series don you have 2 new reflectors because when your brother came back with one, I told he had better see if it is a perfect match, he came back and said it’s slightly different. I pointed to the horse barns and told him to go back and buy a second one so they are a perfect match, because guys like you and me would lie awake at night thinking about the fact that they don’t match. Truth! 😬

While you are correct, after teaching electrical for 15 years I have found it is close enough to get the ideas across. Particularly with resistance.

I have had a piece of debris (small twig or a clump of sod) get under the belt and derail it. Could be the idler or the deck drive pulley picked up something.

Plumbing is not a very complete analogy for electrical wiring because of the need for a complete return path capable of withstanding the pressure and flow rate. A hydraulic system is a much closer explanation but very few people understand how that works either.

Well actually, in all cases, it's Watts (Power) that is the real danger. Power = Volts x Current ie if the combination of volts and current is large, then the result is a lot of heat which can burn or melt just about anything. A starter battery can usually supply hundreds of amps at 12v for a very long time (often for an hour or more). 100Amps x 12V = more than a one bar electric fire, so be careful with wrist watches or wedding rings and spanners. Just getting hold of the terminals of a 12V battery with your bare hands is ok though because you are high resistance and very little current will flow. I never wear any metallic rings or wrist bands under any circumstance, having witnessed exactly the same thing when my brother caught his watch bracelet on the back of the ignition switch of his car. As you vividly point out, they are just as dangerous mechanically too. Take care folks. but DON'T get your wrist watch or wedding ring involved...they represent VERY LOW resistance and will light up like a fire element very quickly. The real danger comes when you have low resistance and a big battery with essentially limited power available. This is the reason they say you always disconnect the battery earth first....because when you get your spanner on the positive and accidently short it to the tractor chassis, nothing happens because the earth return has already been removed. Obviously if you short your spanner to the chassis whilst temoving the earth from the battery, nothing will happen because they are at the same potential (Voltage) (Pressure)!

Nehh.. we call in the Licensed Electrician. No insurance questions. No issues.

A lot of folks’ experience with electricity involves two wires, like the two prongs on the plug for the toaster. Wheel Horse tractors often have one wire to certain components. Their second “wire” is the frame, engine block, and other metal parts--we refer to this second “wire” as the ground. Once all these parts are connected in ways that can conduct electricity, current can flow.

Yes it is. Don't feel alone.

Good to know @midpack

I have a "soft start" module on my electric PTO, this allows for a much smoother engagement. My snowblower used to really jump when the PTO was activated. Now it's about the same as my manual PTO machines That's pretty tall grass for a RD deck, might have something to do with the belt coming off

Ok, thanks @953 nut the forum comes through again.🙂 This electrical learning curve is a bit steep😀

Just thinking out loud. Drive side of the belt pops off.....has to be too loose. (but how did it force it's way out of there?) Is there something in the deck rigging not right causing misalignment and looseness? A worn belt will slip but generally will stay on the pulleys. Mule drive bearing starting to fail. that is a weird one Kev.

Looks like that belt needs a haircut. I see rust in the Vee pulley that may be wearing the belt. Clean all the pulleys and get a new belt.

I can tell you from experience, it holds a car seat on the back of a motorcycle just fine! Don’t worry, we were not on the road, and kept it under 25 in the yard!

A Haiku... A Limerick... There once was a man with a horse And boy was it a reckoning force He painted it red And it fame sure did spread We're talking Wheel Horse, of course

Just amazing how things works out by just walking into a barn. A nice time peace. Hope it stays this way and handed down to the next generation to enjoy.

The left front most hydro gear mount has a tendency to break. A welder attempted this repair with the tractor fully assembled! Well, it broke again and no small wonder looking at the weld. First thing the fan begins to shred, (quietly) The gear drops little by little from torque See the “glob” the first welder did. No proper access to the location Cut the inferior weld off and will run a proper bead inside corner Squared up Cleaned up ready for weld

I have been told ltd-243🤷

I'm thinking I wouldn't be comfortable living in a house wired by an electrician who learned the trade by plumbing anologies.

Nice suicide knob there @19richie66, that made the trip worthwhile.

You always have cool projects.

Here is the link to my YouTube video from the Big Show Big Show Video

At least she has a reason to love you, Richard

It’s been a while since I posted in this thread. The Bugatti kit car is back, for some more work.

Spent time making phone calls today. Arranged 3 roofers to come out and make quotes on a new metal roof, then started searching for a Honda outboard water pump kit. Nobody local had one in stock. Nearest place was a dealer just outside of Traverse City, about 2 hours away. Nice day, nice drive, and it was faster than ordering from a dealer orthe jungle.

@ebinmaine i got the cheap inserts at ebay. lots to choose from and sizes i did wrap it with stainless steel wool. it is not quiet, but it did take the sharpness out of the sound

I have done it a couple different way. I used flex exhaust and also mandrel bend tubing from Summit Racing. They do have different sizes. I have had them up but prefer down and the vid has the sound straight. I did Installed a Harley insert in to the pipe later to calm it down a touch. The mandrel tube is light and can be welded easily. Summit search. Exhaust Tubing, Mandrel Bend

Dodge octane red haven't got any pics of it in the sun but it's quite the eye catcher.

Just got off the phone with cub cadet, seem the tires are on back order, end of the month, maybe, text or call would have been nice, two weeks ago you guys bought them all. you loose.

#2 is why I don't mess with anything above 12 volts. Tractor (and some vehicle) circuits are simple and safe.

More important than ever nowadays. We buy USA made items as often as practically possible.

Well, we did create a new part of the puller today. We got rid of the 1/2"x4" stock with a notch cut out of it for the axle. It was too weak for the amount of pressure it takes to pull off these hubs. This is what made the difference of making it hard or making it REAL hard. After we made a simple change: 2 pieces of 1"x1/2 spaced apart the width of the axle and put behind the hub. The 2 pieces were installed so they sat with the 1" side "on the flat" so the pressure was against the 1" width of both of them We connected them with 2 small screws just for spacing. On the front part of the puller we got rid the 3/8" all-thread and machined the puller to accept 3/4" bolts which were just long enough to get 2 heavy flat washers and a nut on the back as it passed between the 2 pieces of 1"x1/2" stock. Worked like a charm. No slop in the holes we made and we made it to pass on the outside of the hub, not through any lug holes. I got a 1 1/2" inch socket to fit the drive screw and let the impact do the work. It was slow at first-like the width of a hair. Then it started jumping in 1/32" increments and about 15-20 minutes later it was off! Fought all the way but it lost the battle! The only thing we lost were the keys. Shafts are good and we still have two hubs. The quality of the tool, not it's cost, makes all the difference. There is NO way the hub could have taken the pressure if it had been a conventional hub puller pulling on the flange. It would have shattered. If this hadn't moved today I would have shopped for a hub and cut it in 3 pieces as stevasaurus suggested. I spent the rest of the day cleaning up the bench and all the tools, getting the case split (easy), and cleaning the larger part of the case. I taped all the bearings up after cleaning their perimeter with carb cleaner. I didn't want any residue or junk to get into them. Bearings all look good and tight. Amazing after all that time. Fluid was clean. No corrosion. Some light rust at the top of the casing in the corner by the dipstick tube. ; A word to the wise: Don't grab the impact socket after a continous hard job like this...it gets very, very hot!