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I decided to take and restore the two 8” plows I had, fun projects to keep the winter months moving along. To my surprise, every bolt came out without a problem! Sandblasted, epoxy primed, and painted they came out pretty good!

Coin collectors pay an arm and a leg for double struck coins, might be able to find some stupid money for this plow.

Picked this poor RJ several weeks ago. It was severely neglected. Luckily I had almost all parts needed to bring it back to life. Shout out to Keith Jones for the helpful hints on using a fine wire brush to get the patina to look good. Here is a couple pictures of before and after. Also my YouTube videos of being brought back to life Part 1 Part 2

They are going on the backs of the RJs for show, I have a briny all polished up and ready for the Charger 12.

National Automatic Door Day is celebrated on March 19 every year. Doors are the (safe and entertaining) gateway to all sorts of places, so it’s only fitting that we celebrate the mighty automatic door on this day. As the name signifies, this day is to celebrate the automated doorways that guard the entrance to multiple places — hospitals, buildings and malls being some of them. Another aim of this day — unite manufacturers and others across the automatic door industry. The Ancient Greeks didn’t just give us the Olympics — they also gifted the world with automatic doors. At least this is what historians believe. According to them, Greek mathematician and engineer Heron of Alexandria wrote about an automatic door-adjacent mechanism that was used to open up temple gates sometime around the 1st century A.D. According to descriptions in Heron’s books — named “Pneumatica” — the mechanism used heat from fires to build pressure in brass vessels. This pressure forced water from one container into an adjacent one, simultaneously tugging on attached ropes and pulleys to open up the temple doors to which this whole contraption was attached, that too just in time for prayers. Heron also apparently used this mechanism to open up city gates. Quite a while later — in the 17th century, to be exact — Emperor Yang of Sui constructed a foot sensor-activated automatic door in the royal library, according to historian Joseph Needham’s book, “Science and Civilization in China,” written in 1986. It was only in the 20th century that the world got its first real automatic doors. This invention began with American engineers Horace Raymond and Sheldon Roby, who designed an automatic door in 1931. This device was later installed in Wilcox’s Pier Restaurant in Connecticut, U.S., and would open for waiters carrying plates of food and drink. Still, the world recognizes American engineers Dee Horton and Lew Hewitt as the brains behind today’s automatic doors. Their invention, created in 1954, used sensors hidden inside mats on the floor to ‘tell’ the doors someone was about to enter, and voila! The doors would open automatically. By 1960, these doors had entered the commercial market and eventually became more and more common. Large banks, hotels, and various public buildings began using automatic doors. Innovation marked the next few decades — motion sensors were invented, low-energy doors came around, access doors now took into account access for disabled people, and automatic doors went global. Automatic doors are everywhere around us now, opening and closing to safely permit or eject people from various buildings.

I think i mentioned in another thread that we are looking at fitting an air source heat pump to the house, replacing our current gas boiler. We got our quote today which looks good so we are going ahead. The Gubmint are giving a £7,500 grant to households that qualify and thats over half the installation cost. So hopefully in a couple of weeks we will be having plumbers and electricians descend on us to remove the boiler and fit the heat pump. We've also decided to swap around a couple of bedrooms to make a master bedroom with walk in wardrobe for us. So I'm busy with the woodwork to get the project started. Building a new section of floor over a previous underfloor access was the first job. Next is building a small section of stud wall to create a door frame, turning what was an open arch into a proper doorway. We are looking at having a company build us some fitted wardrobe units and a bed head with shelving. Might as well get all the mess out of the way in one go.

Found another plate 1934 this time it looks like it might be a trailer plate.

As noted by others, the C-161 has sundstrand model 90-1173---with an external brake drum. Aside from that, the Sundstrand Piston-to-piston models 90-1136, 1137, 1140, 1172, 1173 are internally near identical. I have successfully rebuilt MANY of them and have made available a FREE download of the overhaul process. The sundstrand Hydro-gear 90-2046 is also an easy rebuild...as is the GT-14 model 90-2062. There are also gasket and O-ring kits available via Red Sq vendors. SUNDSTRAND HYDROGEAR refurb.pdf SUNDSTRAND-Piston-Piston-PUMP-MOTOR-Refurb.pdf

Hauled this pile outa the woods this afternoon with the 308. Some of them big lunkers were right at my limit for pickin up!

Use a ****** block pulley instead of direct cable to the concrete block. It might be slower but will certainly make lifting it easier. Or by using block and tackle you could do it by hand with a rope. HAAA! Guess you can't use the word sn atch on here

We have had a brief stretch of unreasonably nice weather so I got a little spring fever...... Sharpened blades & greased mower for the 654. Ready to install. Im not taking snow blade off just yet.

I'm partial to the E-tank method as well. For my power supply, I grabbed an old Lenovo laptop power supply I had kicking around. It was rated at 20V 10A. I cut the DC plug off of it and spliced on a battery tender quick disconnect. That gives me plenty of options for quickly connecting and disconnecting ring terminals or the small spring loaded battery clamps. I tend to pressure wash my parts first, then drop them in the tank. It always takes off like a handful of alkaseltzer tablets. I knew it would handle rust, but it surprises me how well it does with removing old paint as well. It will typically lift the paint and eat all the rust in a matter of a day or 2. Then I clean the parts and put them on a shelf with the intent to prime them. I never get around to it in time and they all collect surface rust. Then I repeat.

I tend to reuse all fasteners that are in good condition. In my opinion the American Made hardware from the 1960s is far superior to the foreign made stuff you buy today.

Picked up a load of horse manure for the garden. RIP Jay.

The following video has a lot of great information on what appears to be accurate and modern thinking and correcting the misinformation we've been given for about five decades. I encourage all of you to watch it. Multiple times.

I tossed a few things in the dump trailer and headed off to the recycling yard. It hurt to push the brake pedal! I must say, it hurt a little to send this one off. It was free to me, and I replaced the engine once or twice, but my kids learned to drive a “tractor” on this old thing.

In Germany, “calories” are listed on packaging as energy.

It’s all being given away…

There are really only a couple major internal differences. Hydro gear vs piston to piston and physical brake... There is also a gearing difference on GT 14s otherwise it is usually the location of motion control shaft, differences in the slider and motion control handle set up, w-w/o lift etc...

Last two runs of the 10 pinion was a early 1973 Raider 12 Model 1-0350 and a 1973 14 HP no name Model 1-0340 according to the list I have.

They look great! If you plan to use them, the first thing you’ll likely want to do is grind off the paint on the plow surfaces, and wipe a little grease on them to keep rust at bay. Bare, shiny plows work better than painted ones.

They both have a Sundstrand. The 161 might have a drum for the brake. A 160 will not.

Time to split that up, if you're keeping it for burning.

@peter lena I do already use only non-ethanol gas in all my small engine stuff and don't have any issues with clogging or starting after they sit a while. I only use stabil for stuff that sits a lot especially during winter like the generator and the z-turn That is a good idea about running some steel line, I used rubber the whole way.

No you are right, I didn't mention that before. The deadline is from my wife, she wants to use it for a garage/barn sale.

Today’s project I fixed some reversed hood hinges and got ready for Spring. The first time I redid my 312, I put the hinges for the hood on backwards. After a clean out of the deck, and greasing the pivot points it was ready for Spring. The decals are coming Thursday/Friday then the 312 will be done for now.

@AlexR anything I suggest is what I have tried , experimented with , rarely have a one and done , elimination of an issue , that fuel issue , was easy , a repetitive problem , like fuel hose break down , has to be eliminated first , every visible point , has to stay clean / clear , STA BIL fuel storage additive , has done it for me , no debris any ware , my stuff starts right up after long sitting , related clear fuel filter is clean , realise this is an area of contention , I DO NOT HAVE TO WIN , have also eliminated long runs of rubber hose , with steel brake line , leaving only the tank / carb areas , with hose and filter . my stuff starts up with zero smoke or hesitation , had 4 small engines , tractors / generator , that were changed over , no fuel issues at all . also my views of mechanical repair are different , millwrighting does that to you , swiss lewa gear pumps , pete

I'm redoing a K181 right now. I got new valves and for the first time doing these the intake valve had too much lash clearance right out of the package. Usually I always have to trim the stem end. It's head diameter and overall length were correct. The only thing I figured was the valve face needed to be cut .010". I'm thinking great, I'm going to have to take it to a machine shop and it will be days or weeks until they can "get to it" I called a shop 10 miles away. I know the owner died a few years back and his son took it over but I had no idea if they were even open any more. I called and left a message. He calls me back about a half hour later and says bring the engine and everything right over. I can do it while you wait. So he cut the face and set the lash on both valves. Cost me $20 cash for "lunch money"

grab a battery out of one of your WHs. Hook it up to the E-Tank then put the charger on the battery

I have this recoil starter that I’m not sure what it came off of but does anyone recognize it? It says on it, that it’s made by Fairbanks Morse. thx

Go with the C-161. Onans are good engines, but can be fickle and repair parts are expensive if you find them at all.

Have a Great Day

If it's in good shape, clean it up and reuse. If not, replace. Only exception - I always use new lock bolts on hubs.

While several mentioned seat switch, that doesn't necessarily mean the switch is bad, it might be the connection, adjustment or some other mechanical problem. Try jumping the switch for a test. Somehow I posted this to the wrong thread, disregard.

Back in January, one of our NC members passed away. Lance (@Red Horse) wasn't overly active here, but was a member since 2008. His family asked me to help them move two tractors: a 308-8 and a 312-8. I normally don't ask these questions, as not one tractor I've ever had was in decent shape when I got it. I know both these machines were well kept indoors for more than 15 years. They were maintained properly and not abused while Lance had them. He was a stickler for keeping his machines clean, serviced, and working. Neither have any leaks or issues that I am aware of, and run great. So if you don't mind, just tell me what you think is a ballpark for these two separate or together. I will be listing them here and locally once I know what is fair for them. I have an idea, but wanted you folks to help me verify what they might bring. So far as I know, only the 312-8 has a deck. The 308-8 has a 40 inch grader on it.

The blue belts at Tractor Supply work well.

The say to do it because the regulators were more frequently used on plain generators in cars not S/G. The car generator only type do need to be polarized.

both horses are back home now for the year. I hate picking up on projects that I started months ago as I now can’t remember where I put the float bowl for the 867. I figure it may be time for a carb rebuild anyway so I’ll just get a new bowl. That tractor desperately needs a bath too.

Flea Markets, Marketplace ect. Good place to find and old school battery charger for an E tank

We spent a couple hours working on cutting advantech and osb for walls in the new basement apartment.

Nahhh.... this guy moves. Not like me.....

Then they will be forced into position haha. There was a ridiculous suspended load too, it already came up around a inch just from removing the concrete

Got about 3 hours on it today and actually made good progress tried the grinder and it kinda worked it just wasn't going to be fast enough. So I went back to using the good ole sledge hammer. I would say I got a little more then 1/4 of it done. The issue with renting a jackhammer is I can't really just bust it all up and go back to pick it up as the wood floor underneath is barely hanging on and I don't trust stepping on anything but the concrete or where the beams are. My trailer is getting a bit beat up. Going to have to replace that rear angle piece with a way heavier duty angle iron. I don't have a tailgate for it, so whatever on those guides haha. My concrete pile is growing.

Calendar shot!

Definitely, I am a fan of diablo blades I have one on my miter, table saw, and a corded circular saw I have, used them to build the kitchen cabinets, even bought a $130 diablo router bit for the shaker door stiles. I will use this Milwaukee blade on it hopefully until I am done with the barn, might need replaced after that. It drives me nuts when people use saws all the time, have have no idea what blades do what. Maybe the most they know is less teeth for rougher work, and more teeth for finer work. No clue of ripping blades, cross cut blades, combination blades, thin kerf, dado blades, flat grind, alternative top bevel, and then you have the more speciality laminate blades.

Got a new tool for working on the barn. Naturally I have the red tools because that is the right color to have.

i done mine on my c-120 went to local menards or if you don't have one of them lowes might they sell bronze bushings just about 2 bucks