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Just a few more to consider

I need one of these for cleaning my son’s bedroom! Wonder how it works on Legos and HotWheels cars?

Pretty bad few days for me of late, stinking case of covid is the least of my woes. On Friday I had to break in to a friend's fathers house as they were co corned about his welfare. He was on the floor after a fall and he died in hospital last night due to spending hours in a cold room etc. Then I get a blood result from all the tests I'd been having that means I've been referred to cancer treatment at hospital. It's very early days to say if there's anything wrong or not, but getting letters from the oncology department sure makes your gut tighten. Apologies to admin for the political posts, I guess I was distracted somewhat. Mick.

A donut or slice of pie will always improve whatever is in your coffee mug.

1985 310-8

A year or three ago Trina bought a frame for a portable garage from our local Mennonite car repair shop. It was down by the garden because she was thinking about using it as a greenhouse. That idea has been dropped. Not practical for us at this time. This afternoon she and the momma started getting it set up so we can move the "future projects and parts pile" to a better location. They used the Pigpen 867 and Ohio Steel trailer to haul the pipes around.

The bucks are starting to search for doe. This guy followed three doe across the field about 80 yards from my stand. About 1/2 hour later the three doe crossed the other direction. He came back a few minutes later. He's not a monster, but broadside at 15 yards...I couldn't pass.

The 30 amp fuse is in the path from the voltage regulator to the battery but it is unlikely that the voltage regulator is causing the fuse to blow. Carefully examine the wires to and from the 30 amp fuse and the fuse holder itself. The fuse getting hot leads me to think the fuse holder may have a bad contact causing resistance resulting in heat which will eventually blow the fuse. When you keep the RPMs low there is less voltage being generated resulting in less heat. Replacing the fuse holder with a new 30 amp weather tight fuse holder should solve the problem. https://www.google.com/search?q=watertight+fuse+holder&rlz=1C1JZAP_enUS981US981&oq=30+amp+weathertight+fuse+holder&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCggCEAAYgAQYogQyBggAEEUYOTIKCAEQABiiBBiJBTIKCAIQABiABBiiBDIKCAMQABiiBBiJBTIKCAQQABiABBiiBDIKCAUQABiABBiiBNIBCTM0NDE5ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Here is a diagram of your charging system. Also, a guide to the electrical system.

I don't think I have much of a shot, but let me dig through my photos, I know somewhere I got some neat pics of my 701, found some and stole a few pictures of my friends lawn ranger, I'm going for the more pictures then @Pullstart award , thanks all don't think I quite beat him but there's some pics mostly my 701 and 310-8 and the lawn ranger raking grass is my friend kendricks, give him some credit

If everybody wore one ther would be no wars... I have a couple horse shirts Don can I drive your tractors ?!?!?

Here's some more...

Man i could use that thing... acorns acorns acorns... Used to pay the kids .01 / acorn when they were 3-7 years old... never could make more than a buck or so before they were ready to move on to the next game... Now in their mid-20's, they don't seem interested...

Here’s the three of us at a local tractor show this summer. That’s me in the middle, and after looking at this picture I realized that I’m the only one with a Wheel Horse shirt on. I’m going to have to have a talk with these boys! If they are going to drive my tractors, they need to wear the proper attire 😂

Being able to see what I was doing has been a problem. I decided to fix that. I installed new lighting, and a dust extractor. I have always had an issue with the sand flowing down off the "funnel" walls too. Fixed that with a vibrator motor. Sure makes use a lot more pleasant. I also worked on the viewing glass. Removed all the original screws holding the trim. Installed Rivnuts and different screws. Now I easily remove the glass for cleaning and installing new plastic shields.

As with most days, today I was wearing one of my Wheel Horse shirts. My brother stopped by and he had one on, then a little while later my son in law stopped by and he too had one on! It wasn’t too long before we were laughing about it, so I had my bride take a picture.

I got the engine back on my C-160 along with all the parts that I had to remove and it fired right up. I got my new timing light/tach and lowered the minimum RPM to around 1900. About then I saw what I thought was oil from the breather running down the front of the engine. I had overfilled the oil a bit so I removed some and fired it up again. It wasn't oil from the breather it was gasoline running out of the fuel pump..Yikes! I shut it down, closed fuel valve on the bottom of the tank, and rolled it back into it's stall. I guess I'll be replacing the fuel pump next. I think that it was one of the Kohler Plastic ones; was on it when I bought it. What fuel pump do y'all recommend? (K341)

The records show 10 were factory built with rumble seats. This is one of two 1975s known to exist and the only one in the orange color.

I don't need the blades. Just posted the part numbers so it might help someone that does need them.

I see you put double doors on it. You can still get a couple of Wheel Horses in there.

Those fuse holders are known for getting grass and dirt in them causing bad connections. And the terminals get hot and spread then lose their tension. Replace the block or install individual weatherproof sealed fuse holders.

But you are blessed with what you have.

Welcome to the (addiction) and the site, nice tractor the only suggestion I have is to find the proper flywheel screen.

Throw in a little exhaust from a leaky manifold & the coffee and you got yourself a cocktail...

Spent most of the afternoon removing, retiring, and replacing the worn-out 42" SD mower on my woods beater 314-8. It's had a slowly spreading crack in the shell around the right spindle for quite awhile, but the final straw was snagging the front center roller on a tree root a couple weeks ago. Tree roots are surprisingly tough and strong, even small ones. Dead stop and bent the shell clear back against the blade. So today, I drug the deck out from under and looked it over. Could I beat the shell back into shape? Maybe, I have hammers and pry bars, but there's still the spreading crack and eroded spindle housings held on with three bolts, and the long gone baffles that let it just throw clippings everywhere, and, and ... Nah! It's too far gone. So I dug into the mower deck pile for the slightly used 42" SD deck I've been saving for just this occasion, mounted and adjusted it. All good, right? Simple no-tools swap, right? So why did it take all afternoon? Should have known better. It was all smooth for about a minute until halfway around the first pass, the motor slowed down and deck started smoking. Back to the work area again. Old belt on the new deck apparently had taken too much of a set and decided to turn, then pop off and under the left pulley. Sigh. So off come the belt covers, and the little bolts that had probably never been off since the deck was new were good to the last drop. Pulled the old belt off the new deck and replaced it with the newer belt off the old deck. Almost there, but the tensioner didn't want to take up enough slack. What the heck? After poking at it a bit, I found a piece of hickory nut shell wedged in the slide slot. Mice maybe? Dug that out and lubed it a bit, finally everything moving properly and back into service. It's amazing how simple no-tools jobs can leave parts and tools scattered everywhere.

Tell them you lost your wallet in the yard. They can keep the cash in it!

Shes a little dirty but other than that she worked like a champ until she didn't

Not exactly what you describe but with similar results and learned a ton about hydraulics in the bargain. End result: - two quick-connect hydraulic circuits at the front, one with float - joystick control via cables (from a Fisher) - uses existing Eaton 1100 charge pump circuit (i.e. no additional pump, etc.) - left existing lift cylinder, rock shaft, and control intact so all regular implements can work as they should Key things to know: - ALL WHs using Eaton 1100s need external pressure relief for the charge pump circuit -- all that I’ve seen have it built into the control valves - The max working pressure is ~700 psi. This is good in that simple auto brake line tubing and JIC fittings are plenty adequate and safe. Not as good is that it limits working loads. - The pump volume is ~1.5gpm at max pressure. Plenty for small cylinders but WAY too little for long or fat ones. Here you can see the joystick attached to the left side of the hoodstand (yellow knob) and the control valve above the left front wheel. The black connecting push/pull cables are hard to see! The two-spool with float valve is off a (cough cough) JD425 and carefully painted black! This is the lift mechanism I built for the front that hooks into the front- and mid-attach-a-matics. As you can see, it uses a standard 2” receiver at the top and a scavenged mid-hitch at the bottom latch to hold the implement (in the above picture, a flail mower). We have worked this setup hard at my children’s camp and are extremely happy with it. Our only disappointment is that there is no easy way to make the WH have 4WD or a locking rear diff so we’ve gotten it stuck in mud a couple of times!

Although it has a JD sticker on it... This is up for sale on a Dutch selling site. The owner claims its a Hesston / Toro made It has a 21Hp Kohler engine and is a hydro. He is asking a bid above 1750 euro's. It sure looks to have Wheel Horse DNA to me Havnt seen it before ...looks briljant to me..

Take a close look at the distributer to see if it has a tag or numbers/letters stamped in that could be helpful.

Yep, I could get very long-winded about the saga of our ’66 Beetle. The beginning is that it was my first car and the independence was exhilarating. The middle is that it served me well, overall. The ending is that after the body failed NYS inspection, a local trade school swapped its mechanicals into a successful Formula Vee race car! Thankfully, never experienced this!

They "normal" Renault" points didn't match up to what the D250 used. I tried to match up what they used when I worked at NAPA and failed. I think you need to find some place that deals in parts for Continental engines. That was another co. that was a pain to get parts for. They were like AMC. Just threw on what was on the shelf or in the bin when they were built.

The nice thing about the D valves is one or both have the float feature. Another is you can stack as many of these valves side by side as you want

I just picked up a set of cast weights with chains and the bolts for $100

I finished putting this Onan P220 back together. It came out of my 520H, and had a slight surge. I bought a NOS Onan from a guy here and swapped them back in 2010. I bought a new hour meter for the new engine and stored the old one with the old engine. It has 537 hours on it. Now that I’m retired, I decided to get the old one running. New fuel pump, filter and carb and it runs nice and smooth. Now to decide if I want to sell it or use it to build a generator. I have a 10K generator head from Harbor Freight. Then I dig into a generator that was in my Mother In Law’s garage. We were cleaning her house out to sell it after she passed a year ago. I had fuel to the carb but nothing in the bowl. Took the carb off and it was full of varnish. I had to scrape it out of the bowl with a screwdriver. The needle valve was glued in from the varnish. It’s way past being old gas. Lol. Cleaned it all up and put it back together and it purrs like a kitten. I’m going to offer it to my brother. He lost power for a week from the hurricane in E TN and NC. Now I’m wondering what to tinker with next. IMG_5273.MOV IMG_5271.MOV

Two more carbs headed to their owners tomorrow. This one's off a Kohler 8 HP. Also got into the fuel pump for it. Disassemble. Clean out. Reassembly with new diaphragm.