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Just a few more to consider

I need one of these for cleaning my son’s bedroom! Wonder how it works on Legos and HotWheels cars?

Pretty bad few days for me of late, stinking case of covid is the least of my woes. On Friday I had to break in to a friend's fathers house as they were co corned about his welfare. He was on the floor after a fall and he died in hospital last night due to spending hours in a cold room etc. Then I get a blood result from all the tests I'd been having that means I've been referred to cancer treatment at hospital. It's very early days to say if there's anything wrong or not, but getting letters from the oncology department sure makes your gut tighten. Apologies to admin for the political posts, I guess I was distracted somewhat. Mick.

A donut or slice of pie will always improve whatever is in your coffee mug.

1985 310-8

A year or three ago Trina bought a frame for a portable garage from our local Mennonite car repair shop. It was down by the garden because she was thinking about using it as a greenhouse. That idea has been dropped. Not practical for us at this time. This afternoon she and the momma started getting it set up so we can move the "future projects and parts pile" to a better location. They used the Pigpen 867 and Ohio Steel trailer to haul the pipes around.

The bucks are starting to search for doe. This guy followed three doe across the field about 80 yards from my stand. About 1/2 hour later the three doe crossed the other direction. He came back a few minutes later. He's not a monster, but broadside at 15 yards...I couldn't pass.

The 30 amp fuse is in the path from the voltage regulator to the battery but it is unlikely that the voltage regulator is causing the fuse to blow. Carefully examine the wires to and from the 30 amp fuse and the fuse holder itself. The fuse getting hot leads me to think the fuse holder may have a bad contact causing resistance resulting in heat which will eventually blow the fuse. When you keep the RPMs low there is less voltage being generated resulting in less heat. Replacing the fuse holder with a new 30 amp weather tight fuse holder should solve the problem. https://www.google.com/search?q=watertight+fuse+holder&rlz=1C1JZAP_enUS981US981&oq=30+amp+weathertight+fuse+holder&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCggCEAAYgAQYogQyBggAEEUYOTIKCAEQABiiBBiJBTIKCAIQABiABBiiBDIKCAMQABiiBBiJBTIKCAQQABiABBiiBDIKCAUQABiABBiiBNIBCTM0NDE5ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Here is a diagram of your charging system. Also, a guide to the electrical system.

I don't think I have much of a shot, but let me dig through my photos, I know somewhere I got some neat pics of my 701, found some and stole a few pictures of my friends lawn ranger, I'm going for the more pictures then @Pullstart award , thanks all don't think I quite beat him but there's some pics mostly my 701 and 310-8 and the lawn ranger raking grass is my friend kendricks, give him some credit

If everybody wore one ther would be no wars... I have a couple horse shirts Don can I drive your tractors ?!?!?

Here's some more...

Man i could use that thing... acorns acorns acorns... Used to pay the kids .01 / acorn when they were 3-7 years old... never could make more than a buck or so before they were ready to move on to the next game... Now in their mid-20's, they don't seem interested...

Here’s the three of us at a local tractor show this summer. That’s me in the middle, and after looking at this picture I realized that I’m the only one with a Wheel Horse shirt on. I’m going to have to have a talk with these boys! If they are going to drive my tractors, they need to wear the proper attire 😂

As with most days, today I was wearing one of my Wheel Horse shirts. My brother stopped by and he had one on, then a little while later my son in law stopped by and he too had one on! It wasn’t too long before we were laughing about it, so I had my bride take a picture.

Being able to see what I was doing has been a problem. I decided to fix that. I installed new lighting, and a dust extractor. I have always had an issue with the sand flowing down off the "funnel" walls too. Fixed that with a vibrator motor. Sure makes use a lot more pleasant. I also worked on the viewing glass. Removed all the original screws holding the trim. Installed Rivnuts and different screws. Now I easily remove the glass for cleaning and installing new plastic shields.

I got the engine back on my C-160 along with all the parts that I had to remove and it fired right up. I got my new timing light/tach and lowered the minimum RPM to around 1900. About then I saw what I thought was oil from the breather running down the front of the engine. I had overfilled the oil a bit so I removed some and fired it up again. It wasn't oil from the breather it was gasoline running out of the fuel pump..Yikes! I shut it down, closed fuel valve on the bottom of the tank, and rolled it back into it's stall. I guess I'll be replacing the fuel pump next. I think that it was one of the Kohler Plastic ones; was on it when I bought it. What fuel pump do y'all recommend? (K341)

The records show 10 were factory built with rumble seats. This is one of two 1975s known to exist and the only one in the orange color.

I don't need the blades. Just posted the part numbers so it might help someone that does need them.

I see you put double doors on it. You can still get a couple of Wheel Horses in there.

Those fuse holders are known for getting grass and dirt in them causing bad connections. And the terminals get hot and spread then lose their tension. Replace the block or install individual weatherproof sealed fuse holders.

But you are blessed with what you have.

Welcome to the (addiction) and the site, nice tractor the only suggestion I have is to find the proper flywheel screen.

Throw in a little exhaust from a leaky manifold & the coffee and you got yourself a cocktail...

Spent most of the afternoon removing, retiring, and replacing the worn-out 42" SD mower on my woods beater 314-8. It's had a slowly spreading crack in the shell around the right spindle for quite awhile, but the final straw was snagging the front center roller on a tree root a couple weeks ago. Tree roots are surprisingly tough and strong, even small ones. Dead stop and bent the shell clear back against the blade. So today, I drug the deck out from under and looked it over. Could I beat the shell back into shape? Maybe, I have hammers and pry bars, but there's still the spreading crack and eroded spindle housings held on with three bolts, and the long gone baffles that let it just throw clippings everywhere, and, and ... Nah! It's too far gone. So I dug into the mower deck pile for the slightly used 42" SD deck I've been saving for just this occasion, mounted and adjusted it. All good, right? Simple no-tools swap, right? So why did it take all afternoon? Should have known better. It was all smooth for about a minute until halfway around the first pass, the motor slowed down and deck started smoking. Back to the work area again. Old belt on the new deck apparently had taken too much of a set and decided to turn, then pop off and under the left pulley. Sigh. So off come the belt covers, and the little bolts that had probably never been off since the deck was new were good to the last drop. Pulled the old belt off the new deck and replaced it with the newer belt off the old deck. Almost there, but the tensioner didn't want to take up enough slack. What the heck? After poking at it a bit, I found a piece of hickory nut shell wedged in the slide slot. Mice maybe? Dug that out and lubed it a bit, finally everything moving properly and back into service. It's amazing how simple no-tools jobs can leave parts and tools scattered everywhere.

Tell them you lost your wallet in the yard. They can keep the cash in it!

Shes a little dirty but other than that she worked like a champ until she didn't

Not exactly what you describe but with similar results and learned a ton about hydraulics in the bargain. End result: - two quick-connect hydraulic circuits at the front, one with float - joystick control via cables (from a Fisher) - uses existing Eaton 1100 charge pump circuit (i.e. no additional pump, etc.) - left existing lift cylinder, rock shaft, and control intact so all regular implements can work as they should Key things to know: - ALL WHs using Eaton 1100s need external pressure relief for the charge pump circuit -- all that I’ve seen have it built into the control valves - The max working pressure is ~700 psi. This is good in that simple auto brake line tubing and JIC fittings are plenty adequate and safe. Not as good is that it limits working loads. - The pump volume is ~1.5gpm at max pressure. Plenty for small cylinders but WAY too little for long or fat ones. Here you can see the joystick attached to the left side of the hoodstand (yellow knob) and the control valve above the left front wheel. The black connecting push/pull cables are hard to see! The two-spool with float valve is off a (cough cough) JD425 and carefully painted black! This is the lift mechanism I built for the front that hooks into the front- and mid-attach-a-matics. As you can see, it uses a standard 2” receiver at the top and a scavenged mid-hitch at the bottom latch to hold the implement (in the above picture, a flail mower). We have worked this setup hard at my children’s camp and are extremely happy with it. Our only disappointment is that there is no easy way to make the WH have 4WD or a locking rear diff so we’ve gotten it stuck in mud a couple of times!

Although it has a JD sticker on it... This is up for sale on a Dutch selling site. The owner claims its a Hesston / Toro made It has a 21Hp Kohler engine and is a hydro. He is asking a bid above 1750 euro's. It sure looks to have Wheel Horse DNA to me Havnt seen it before ...looks briljant to me..

I finally had a little time to spend on the A-100 today... not a lot, but "one bolt" as Eric said which is forward progress. While cleaning one of the frame pieces I discovered another victim of age and neglect - what I believe is (or was I suppose I should say) the fuel shutoff valve is toast: I found a couple sources for an OEM replacement and am choking on the $26 + tax and shipping price tag... if I can't figure something else out I'll have to cave. As I stepped back I realized that my collection of parts ready to paint was actually pretty decent: To give myself a bit of a break in the rust dust I got the wiring harness pulled out of the donor tractor (picture below). I have a feeling I can pare it back a bit since I don't intend to use the mower deck, and there are a couple wires that I have no idea what they're for... a "bolt" for another day. Jonathan

David - at the bottom of the RockAuto link is the interchange of the points to OE Factory parts. Maybe the OE WH number is there?? RockAuto - yup, thumbs up. Good prices for quality parts - IF you can wait for them to arrive - usually 3-5 days. The downside can be the cost to ship it to you. Check out the total cost before you commit to buy. Standard Motor Products - thumbs up too.

I decided to try these out. These look much better that what you see else where, because of fitment. Others have to be retap the holes on the bladder. Also the T has to be filed to fit into the 1/2 turn notch. I think these are so far and looks much better that aftermarket junk.

Thanks Cleat. I assume just adjusts where the pedal sits? Maybe I'll just let mine be. I got my Kelch gas cap in by the way! Fits and seems to read properly. Only annoying thing is it's not lined up. I assume that's normal? Also wanted to add that my Amazon voltage meter worked! Replaced today

Great discussions here, sorry I’m late to the party! @GAJoe thanks for the props! I enjoy video making, it sure is not worth the time and effort financially, so hearing some positive feedback helps make it worth it!

Remember when we used to laugh at anything "Made in Taiwan"... Now they're the good stuff. Norman for President!!!

The bandsaw is my favorite power tool and the only one I use the most actually on an almost daily basis from sizing small pieces to even crosscutting long firewood pieces. There are three of them in the shop, a small 9” one set with a 1/8” blade for highly curved cuts, a 14” Delta permanently set up with a 3/4” blade for general work, and a behemoth dedicated Makita resaw with a 2-1/2” blade. The smallest one is a relatively new addition but the other two have been with me for many years, the Makita about 30 years. I inherited both . The Makita from my friend Howard Rotz and the and the Delta from my friend Ed DeVoe’s father a master Shipwright who I mention often. The Delta is king here. It is the third generation of this type of saw from Delta and it was built and bought in 1948. This model was actually the first American stationary tool to be copied by the Chinese and still is today probably the most copied one. There is good reason for that. It is a very simple yet well designed machine with great accuracy, reliability and ease of adjustment. This design has essentially remained totally unchanged since 1940, a testament to its effectiveness. I have kept it essentially unchanged from his hands just making a few additions or modifications out of necessity to improve or maintain it. I could have restored it to looking new but that would just take its personality , and charisma . There is a lot of history that came with it and all of the countless stuff I have from him which I been entrusted and promised to keep all together. Machine as it sits today Ed did a bit of metal cutting, mostly brass and bronze. Added step pulley to change speeed. Made his own tensioner and pulley out of plywood. This pulley has been in service since 1948 with no bearing just a bronze sleeve. It runs true and silent. Saw has always been on a dedicated dolly. Ed used a large door holder to keep machine from moving while being used. I added two smaller ones. Ed’s large holder. I added nail spikes to hold better. I added two smaller ones from my stash of vintage hardware. Added spike to those also. I added an extension and made rails so it can use the Makita’s fence. Fence has vernier adjustment and swivels out of way. Saw has original twin shaft motor. Rod is part off original switch . It failed had had to be substituted. Original was also a reversing switch. I added outlet for light. Changed switch location for convenience and safety. Also a reversing switch like original. Block prevents switching in wrong direction. Zip tie prevents kids from accidentally turning it on. I added “retirement light”. Bracket is a repurposed satellite speaker bracket. Light is inexpensive utility light from HD. All necessary tools for adjustment kept with saw on a magnet. I added dust collector right next to blade Collector box attaches to frame with strong magnets. Added pulley guard that also serves as storage and supports dust collector Storage for shop vac hose. Shop vac draws dust from machine. Machine and or light activate shop vac automatically Shop vac is connected to a cyclone separator keeping vac filter always clean and at full suction. Ed is always looking over his stuff constantly smiling. Photo taken in Italy during WWII .

Framerails and frontweight-frame-crossmember-thingy in the making. Framerails were made out of a piece of u-rail which was bent up out of coldrolled steel. The frontweight bracket was made of a piece rectangular boxsteel with various pieces added. Last picture inspired me to make it a narrow front tractor. For the people that might not know, this means the tractor will have the front wheels directly next to each other instead of a normal wide axle.