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I use the Blaster brand Silicone Lubricant. Apply the night before the storm and let it sit overnight and it never clogs no matter what kind of snow.

I haven't started hunting yet this year, but this is my son's first year really giving it a go. So far he has had a series of disappointing deer hunts, so tonight I told him I was taking the one dog to walk the game lands and he was coming with me, the only choice he had was bringing his shot gun or not. They've been stocking pheasants for the junior hunt, and there are a few other things in early for just the 16 and under crowd. I figured worst case he got a bit of exercise. Anyway, we stumbled upon a critter. The boy got his first kill tonight. He hit that rabbit with his .410 at a range I'd have been skeptical of with my 12ga.

I’m currently restoring my wheelhorse 314A I’m looking to find rear tires 22-7.50-12 can’t seem to find new ones, can anyone guide me to other compatible sizes?

Motion Industries has the bearing, Like was said above, it is closed (capped) on one end. For now a finger of bondo would stop the leak or maybe even silacone might work. There is no real presure behind there. If the bearing sounds good you may be alright. https://www.motion.com/products/sku/00090868;origin=sayt

It’s a closed cup needle bearing - from what I see it shows rust - the cup probably rusted through - you have a pin hole on the facing of the bearing cup .

Well, if you are going to wait that long, you might as well wait until next June and find a good one at the "BIG" show. Wheel Horse Collector's Club Show in Penn. BTW, the detent spring measures 3/16" OD x 1 3/16" Long. It is a little heavier gage the a ball point pen spring.

Update; Tried to fire it yesterday and nothing. Gave up pissed off. Then I remembered I hard installed the primer bulb. Went back outside, couple a squeezes, and she fired beautifully. Again THANKS ALL.

Thanks Ed that makes it very clear. Easy enough to add to the flag before painting.

A-Z hub is 2 piece. Center of the new inner hub is tapered and has a slot lengthwise. You slide the outer hub piece onto the axle then slide the inner piece with the key slot into position. Slide the outer piece onto the inner piece. Line up the non threaded holes of the outer piece with the the threaded holes of the inner piece. Install bolts and torque to spec evenly. This draws both pieces together and they wedge themselves tight and the slotted inner piece "clamps down" on the axle. To remove: Remove bolts and install them into the threaded holes of the outer piece and as you tighten them they will push the outer piece in and off the inner piece. Use a screwdriver in the slot of the inner piece to open the bore to remove.

Say ya pwayers wabbit... Nicely done!

Check the width of your rims - a 22-8.50-12 should mount up fine. Check the recommended rim size with the Mfg'r first...

The use of the assist spring is truly a "balancing act ".' Too much tension and the snowblower is too light to stay down onto the ground to work effectively. Not enough makes lifting a chore. Good old cheap store-brand vegetable oil cooking spray is what I use to coat the inside of the tub, auger, and chute. Works well.

I added them to mine as well. Depending on the terrain you use your tractor on, as well as the amount of seat time you will have, a set of springs most definitely reduce what pop called “planter fatassyitis”, which I acquired from using no springs…

Usually cross pollination effects the seeds from the fruit, there in effecting the plants that these seed will grow. The fruit its self should not be effected. I grow my Jalapenos, bells, poblano, cayenne & habanero all in close proximity with no taste or heat change in their fruit. Your peppers may have suffered from some type of climate or nutrient issue. Over loading of peppers on the plant may have also been an issue although I have not had that be an issue in the past.

Got this snowblower for a pretty good deal I think. It was $125. Getting it tuned up for winter, flipped the scraper blade and got new stainless hardware for it. And Adjusted the shoes to keep the blade slightly off the ground might have to adjust those more once I start using it. Adjusted the chain tension. And going to weld a tab on the flag rod to match the factory spring assist lift. Since mine doesn't have that and I don't have any hydraulic lift tractors. Is there anything you guys use to coat the inside area of the blower and the chute?

Slowly moving along. Got my frame in primer. Hopefully will get color on it and a few other parts during the warm temps over this weekend. Fingers crossed !! man is it a lot of effort to get these parts ground down and cleaned up. Credit to all of you who have done this multiple times.

Although I have a drill bit sharpener that I inherited, I have always and still do sharpen them by hand on a grinder. I can do it quicker and more reliably accurate than using a machine. It’s a matter of habit and practice. Also when drilling , wood, steel , brass, bronze or aluminum, ideal bit edge angle is a little different from each other. One can do that quickly by hand. Just need to know what to look for and have a steady hand. I know that some of you will not agree with me but I use the side of grinding wheel to sharpen them. It’s easier and more accurate than using the edge and in 40 plus years of doing it I never had a problem with it. Before all of these gadgets became available, everyone I know did it by hand. Their availability took away one’s ability or desire to learn how to do it by hand .

Yep. lotta work. they do taste good though. Marv

I grounded the solenoid to the body and was hoping that's all it was. The solenoid DID start clicking again, but the starter is still not engaging or spinning. Then, I tried to jumpstart it because the battery had been sitting and only measured at 12.2V. Unfortunately, that just made the starter smoke. I found a diagram here, but the wiring looks correct to me. Thanks for the help and responses

Kohler specifies a grease to use on the Bendix shaft.

The pieces are tapered and the inside piece gets drawn into the hub with bolts wedging & clamping the axles tight. The threaded holes are for backing the inside piece out for easy removal. Very common usage on electric motor drives. They will not come off or loosen unless needed. The Squonky is a faster typer...

Wow! You guys are awesome. Hopefully it is the solenoid it was $10. My uncle said it was he’s pretty sharp. My concern is I downloaded the original Manuel and there’s very few wires. Unfortunately my switch has like 6 wires coming from it and I have one its marked yellow that’s hot . I taped it off. Apparently it fell off when I took off the gas tank. Ill send pics and may need more help if this baby doesn’t start.

You might also be able to make that into a cup holder. Find a plastic car cup holder to fit.

Be careful - ATV tires may BE listed as that size, but most likely be different in OD and width from your present tires.

23 X 8.50 - 12 is a much more commonly available size. https://www.google.com/search?q=23+X+8.50+-+12+tires&rlz=1C1JZAP_enUS981US981&oq=23+X+8.50+-+12+tires&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOdIBCTIyMTMzajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Nope, just wise. I've cleaned the contacts in a couple like John described.

Will it run without the solenoid bolted in (grounded) I have a 417-8 the PO couldn't get running, blowing fuses and the problem was he changed the solenoid but didn't tighten it to the hood stand. It was loosely attached. Snugged it up and it runs great BTW, if the old solenoid "clicks" it's not likely the problem

@ebinmaine Has upgraded front spindles.

The illustration in the parts list should help

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Hey Pete- just regular 50/50 Dawn dish soap and water does the same thing. I usually load up a 1 gal pump stain sprayer and go hunting around the house in spring. Amazing how fast it knocks them down. Just as quick as wasp spray without the oily residue.

I have liquid filled tires on 3 wheel horses and on my big tractor and there are no negatives that I can see. Better traction, more stable.

Changed gear oil in both my 315 and 416 8's last week - today the 315 got new front wheel bearings all around - checked they were starting to get sloppy . For the trans changes put Lucas oil in both - this weekend gonna jack up the 416 check those bearings - many years ago plowing with the C 101 front wheel came off - bearing went out made a total mess of the spindle - made the best of it with new bearings until the big show picked up a new used one - now I check bearings periodically - if I find slop in 1 or 2 change all 4 . Not going through the spindle mess again - have a blade on the 315 all year and a tall chute on the 416 4 months a year so both are carrying weight in the front . Can anyone point out a thread for upgrading the front wheels/axles for weight ? I'm curious about the process

Yep ..can't dull it any worse... HF has got some too ... any good???

Having worked as a Machine Assembler for various Companies in my early career, I met a few guys that could Freehand sharpen twist drills on a good grinding wheel. It took four different guys to show me how - each had a slightly technique. The 4th guy was hands-down the best. We always had the need for short twist drills for either tapping or dowel pinning in tight places. Most folks do not even realize that the center "web" spiral of a twist drill is thicker at the end away from the tip. Cut a drill bit in half, and try to resharpen the bottom... The 118 degree shape can be done on a Drill Doctor, but the bit will not cut - it has no chisel point. The center web needs to be undercut relieved to do so. This 4th guy could do all this by hand! What I learned from all of them - Resharpen the bit as soon as either it gets dull or the outer edge chips. WAY much easier to salvage it...... Somewhat similar to watching a seasoned Carpenter resharpen either a plane blade or a chisel on a belt sander... @formariz???

Well not today but over the last week I replaced the pto assembly, put in a new starter and a new solenoid, not bad for someone who is not mechanically inclined. Starts right up and everything seems to work just fine for now. Jim

Don't be surprised when your bell peppers have some heat.

@Achto has had some peppergate in recent years, as he calls it. Plant what you want, eat what you get

Might be one of those "lurkers" I resemble that remark. Personally, I never sought any kind of web presence. I admit, that I used sites like this for information/guidance. At a point, I had to admit to myself that this tractor thing was more than a passing curiosity. Attending several WHCC shows convinced me to join both RS and WHCC. I'm now seven Wheelhorse tractors deep. Hello, my name is Mark, and I'm a horse-a-holic.

@jsp_333 Here ya go!

Seat bolts directly to the pan but you can jack it up a bit if you are long legged.

Distant relative... if he was family there'd be 6 round hoods up top with a skeleton driving each one...

Spiders definitely help with other bugs... They also provide free halloween decorations!!!

I think I would mount a rear view mirror in there, so I could see my smilling face when I am riding it around.

What I do is put that first half of the top number in the search box above. " 61 o8k8o2 " Hit search, but then hit "and" ... There are ways to check "files" too but I don't remember how. I'd say you have a 1976 B80 8 speed.

The 1962 502 came with a Tecumseh HT 55C-3088P engine. It was a pull start with the round 13 hole seat. This horse is model "62" serial 18107. The transmission is a WH # 5025 3 speed. The engine serial # 12624. Before Restoration:: After Restoration by JoeBob::