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I urge you to be careful. As you begin to enjoy different attachments on your tractors, your subconscious will begin to want more and more of the cool stuff to hang on your tractor. It is a dreadful addiction. Wheelhorseitis (among many other names) is a terrible condition. Only awareness can stop it. This is how it starts. Next you’ll find yourself enjoying the smell of new tires and fresh paint. In the last stages, you’ll begin fabricating and modifying. That’s when you realize that the damage is done.

I decided to try these out. These look much better that what you see else where, because of fitment. Others have to be retap the holes on the bladder. Also the T has to be filed to fit into the 1/2 turn notch. I think these are so far and looks much better that aftermarket junk.

My daughter and granddaughter (only grandchild so far...) at a tractor show in the UK (she moved there back in April). It wasn't a WH show, but at least they had this one there.... her hubby was kind enough to take this picture and send it along.

I have heard that some used a vinyl base board as a deflector on rear discharge decks. But then I didn't spend last night at a 4 star motel, and I don't have a rear discharge deck so this might be disinformation. So I suggest you check it out your self first. I don't want to upset anyone.

@kpinnc @ebinmaine I feel the intervention has come too late…

I believe awareness ADDS to the volume of tractors.....

Yep. It’s only to corral the clippings a bit farther out from the deck and to redirect them downward. It also helps keep the acorns from flying too far The mounting holes were already there in the deck housing. I used big box store vinyl cove base left over from a project--thankfully a decent color!

We were able to spend the beautiful Sunday showing off a few of the round hoods. It’s always a great time making memories. We were even lucky enough to bring home best and show garden tractor with the 702. They boys and I put a lot of work into it last winter and it payed off.

PTO bell will just spin if there is no belt on it. Causes a little more wear on the bearings but that's it

You sold your loader?

Well, the Bravada is gone, but the dream is not over. I have a new tuning program coming today, that allows me to get into a vehicle’s computer system and alter maps. I recently bought a new winter beater, a 2005 Chevy 2500HD regular cab long box Duramax. It was non-running due to a severely corroded fuse box, and the dash was torn apart too with the P.O. attempting to troubleshoot. I’ve got it now to the point it’ll turn over and sometimes fire, but the vehicle’s Passlock security system now thinks it’s being stolen. My HP Tuners module will allow the ole laptop in the front seat tuning, from deleting VATS or Passlock, to auto lights, to allowing turbos and more fuel maps, etc.

Remember when we used to laugh at anything "Made in Taiwan"... Now they're the good stuff. Norman for President!!!

I had to head back to my company's HQ for a couple days, but returned this afternoon and got a smidge of work done. The first item was the brake disc which was fused onto the spindle. I drenched it with PB Blaster for several days, tried a couple different pullers, a pickle fork, heat... rinsed, repeated but no go so I finally cut it off and have a replacement on order. I also got the rotted tires and tubes cut free from the front wheels (not quite as bad as the rear ones, but close!), I'll get them cleaned up then do some fiberglass patching next on all four of them. I've also been noticing some junk weeping from the shifter, at first I thought it might just be dirty water as it was sitting outside, but thinking it might be a bad seal? I'll be doing some research on this, but any input would be welcome... and since I'm in the thick of it, I'm feeling like it would make sense for me to drain and put fresh fluid in the transmission?

And purchased a loader project… still not complete

I always remove my PTO brakes. Makes it much quicker to change belts . And like Don noted, less hours on the big needle bearing.

@ebinmaine prompted me to put this up here. This is on a 36” geared RD deck but the principle is the same for the 42” belt RD. I used ordinary stainless hardware--round headed hex socket screws with flanged nylock nuts

It’s one bearing or the other! 😁 Letting is spin means it’s turning the “throw out” bearing the same as if the PTO was engaged (although with less load on the bearing, for sure) If “braked”, it’s turning on the internal needle bearings.

Simple stuff! When my package comes, I can’t wait to dive in!

You are correct, my loader was from a standard size C series frame. The GT14 and 953/1054 frames were much wider and heavier duty.

hi MainelyWheelhorse, you might want to make a back flap for that RD deck. i use old inner tube, stops the grass clippings from getting all over the rearend of the tractor. this is especially important with a hydro. i do see you are running an 8 speed. just a suggestion regards mike

@Pullstart @WHX?? The piece that Pullstart is referring to is very similar to mine. I'm guessing that differences are due to frame size. Figure that it is WH made. Wish I had the loader or whatever attachment that went with it. I do have a snow plow/front blade that was on the tractor when I bought it. It didn't use that bracket. Snow plow was originally yellow or green, seeing remains of both colors of paint. It is wheel horse made, has a label. It is rust colored now and needs a lot of work. I'll try and shoot some pictures today.

Found an old post where you stated it is a 2004 model. The only black wire on the diagrams are the grounds. Wires with yellow insulated terminals are not original. Is the other yellow connector to the left connected to the chassis metal and the same wire? That would make it a ground wire and was probably added to the regulator mounting screw to double up and it is often recommended by members if there is a charging problem. Click on the tractor in this link and again on the diagrams that come up to enlarge them.

I helped my brother by mowing the last piece of his lawn with my 42”RD deck that I moved to the 312. The 42” came with the 308. The bigger deck definitely worked better in the tall grass than the 37” SD that came with the 312.

My Kids and my Neighbors kids having a little friendly Competiton! There in their late 30's now! Gosh, Please let me bring back them days!

I ended up getting the AC B-110 out today to tow the 14-8 up the hill to my shop. I didn't have much time after getting the boat cleaned up and covered for outdoor storage in October - won't be able to get it in for shrink wrapping until November, and using the AC tractor to move the dock sections into the winter storage spot. The no move problem on the 14-8 looks like it might be more than a missing key and set screw, as the input shaft did not appear to turn while I was pushing the tractor while it was in gear. Strange thing is, there was not any unusual noise from the transmission before it quit running. The shifter seems to go into all the gears without any problems. OOPS. I have not checked to see if the high/low shifter is between gears. Got to remember to check the simple stuff first! I'll leave ya'all with a pleasant image. Shot it off the deck tonight just after sunset: Edit: Got to quote one of the political candidates - "Sometimes I can be a knucklehead". I went out to the Horse shed tonight and found that the hi/low shift lever was indeed between gears. Must have bumped it when I got off of the tractor to start taking the dock out of the lake. Didn't think of that cause, since I had not used low range on my way to the lake. Knowledge for me, a tidbit of wisdom for the rest of you - check ALL of the simple things first.

I took a couple of the drawings floating around here on RS, and made some 3D models. From that I made 2D drawings. I enjoy making the 3D models, the 2D drawings not so much, but from the 3D models , it isn't too bad to create the 2D drawings. The fun part is creating the 3D models though. These were pretty basic and simple. Below are the Front Blade Lift Link drawing, the second one is of the clevis hitch, and the third is the dual wheel adapter. Keep in mind, these are my drawings, but they're based on what was floating around here on RS for quite some time. Front Blade Lift Links.pdf Clevis Hitch.pdf Dual Wheel Adapter.pdf

The only bummer to having lots of Tractors is maintaining the batteries and trying to keep the Mice out ....!

Good afternoon! I recently removed the engine cowling to clean the magneto and completely forgot where the black wire with yellow terminals hooks to. Assuming on one of the bolts that holds the rectifier in place???

@Handy Don Oh, ok it’s basically a flap that covers the outlet.

Wait till you come down to me n Trina's place. You'll see what can happen if you're not careful. You can also check out the different vintages and sizes and shapes.

Sorry for the late response, y'all. Tin for garage and coop was delivered today and I picked up the rest of the lumber I needed to rebuild roofs. Will be a little busy. @Pullstart Man, I wish I had a front end loader. I've been kicking around the idea of making an auger using a rear diff but haven't even researched yet. Just glanced at your thread, will take a deeper look, probably tomorrow morning over coffee. @peter lena Just curious, what is your reasoning for two fuel filters? Also, I used Lucas red n tacky on my pulley bearing next to the clutch. You don't like it? (It's my go-to for bearings unless a black molly is called out) Also, you seem to be real into lubes and proper quiet running. I'm really conscientious about proper lube. Seen way too many broken machines for no good reason other than neglect. Have you seen Magnalube G or Triflow? Those are my magic lubes.

Thanks to @gwest_ca I'm pretty sure it was out of a '73 or so Case 220, here's what the original mufflers look like.... Those Case boys are like us, stoked to find one with an original muffler... I don't know what's inside it but it sounds really good!

Searching for diagrams to hookup rear mount Tiller to 105 tractor

@Pullstart those bearings are cake to remove clean out / re grease , like said , lay out the mule drive , as you dissemble , so you can EXACTLY reinstall bearing spacers , typically never think of mule drive HEAT / STRESS , but those bearings do get hot . lucas chassis or marine grease , has a 550 + deg rating polyurea rating , have that in all my deck related bearings , except outer pto cone clutch connection , thats sealed . combine that with a PTO LEVER TUNE UP / DETAILING FOR FUNCTION , and the entire rotational belt drive is very smooth , and no squealing clutch engagement , just feed it in easily , the rotation is already , to move . pete

Might be on to something there Kev... I thought maybe some sort of front blade.

That looks like it was for a front end loader. The ARK500 I had required a piece like that to hold the subframe up, and the wings were for the side upright braces.

Outstanding! Keep those boys around tractors. They will remember it forever!

I'll probably not fool with bearings, grease and such right now. Will be doing an engine and transmission rebuild in the nearish future. Already have a floppy steering bar, will deal with all that sort of thing while I have the engine off the frame. Looking closer, the wings and angle weldment are bolted on to the frame and not part of the frame. I still think I'll attach to angle instead of the frame itself. Keeps me from drilling the frame more and the standoff keeps it from interfering with the turning radius. If it's not wheel horse made, it's well built and appears to be around the same age as the tractor.

@BurtB also a perfect time to RE GREASE THOSE MULE DRIVE BEARINGS , remove pulleys , lay out disassembly , critical for correct smooth function . easy to remove wide rubber bearing side shields , small flat putty knife , flat pocket screwdriver , don't roughhouse the seals , pry to remove , easy to save , lucas green grease , 550 degree drop point , polyurea rated , makes those bearings silent , by the way that lubrication upgrade , is what makes that deck assembly , operate with a solid quiet operation . imagine no bearing whine . like to wipe out original " lubricant " flush with carb cleaner , repack to same ammount , my 3 horses have that set up , every bearing upgraded , every movement point moves with ease , pto lever does not squeal , with easy engagement . just an opportunity , pete

I've got a line on two other possible donor machines, one has a 12.5HP Briggs and Stratton, the other has 15HP Kohler. Both are $80, hopefully I'll end up with one of them and not BOTH of them, but we'll see. I fussed with the Craftsman T100 for a bit and got it running, so what I don't keep I figure I can sell. In the meantime, I spent some time researching and ordering the parts I'll need for the A-100. Tires, tie rods, brake pads, tail light lens, headlight lens, shift knob and decal set... underwater on the investment vs. value I'm sure, but I'm determined to save this poor little guy. I also spend some time cleaning up parts. I need to finish off the nooks and crannies, but the transmission is getting there as are the rims... a few pictures below. I was going back and forth on whether I want to do a complete re-paint or clean up and capture the current patina. The hood has a big chunk cut out on one side for some unknown reason, so I'm thinking I'll have to go the complete re-paint round... which means more tear down... feeling a little like Alice in the rabbit hole! LOL! Jonathan

Removed a broken hoobie doo... the weld on nut works every time

It also didn't help that they were installing load-range C tires on them to get softer sidewalls for better ride. The Rangers in the same years weighed less, had a lower payload and towing capacity and were still factory equipped with Ds. In reality what Ford should have done was to issue a statement basically saying "Yes, your truck-chassis vehicle rides like a truck. Congratulations on describing the proper operation of the vehicle. Now if you are unhappy with that please feel free to consider one of our nice sedans like the Crown Vic with air ride, or the Taurus/Sable that comes in a wagon if you need that extra space. Otherwise, go pound sand."

I just rewired my B-80 and ran it as it came from the factory but I do add a double layer of heat shrink for protection at the clips. Add a jumper from the hood to a good ground. The hinge doesn't work well for that.

@ rig854 personally like CABLE WRAP on wiring , also use peel / stick ty wrap mount in place , like contractors , bolt on electrical lugs , very secure solid , eliminate tight / binding / chafing anything , only a suggestion , love repetitive problems , improve and eliminate them . pete

My son felt his 312-H (Magnum) was “running rich.” It was. The foam pre-filter was totally clogged and the inner filter was nearly done. Replaced both. With them off, though, noticed that the choke butterfly wasn’t fully opening. Repositioned the end “Z” to one of the arm holes closer to the shaft and adjusted the position of the housing in the clamp. Full control restored! Also adjusted the idle speed up from about 650 (yeah, it was just putt-putting!) up to 1,000

Day nine of rain. Got the 312H ready for snow plowing and deer recovery duty. 48" plow, front and rear weight, blade centering support, rubber chains.

I never really thunk of that. Actually a good idea, because it doesn’t take much weight to raise the nose of a wheel horse. Now I gotta drag the welder back out…

You can also go 8 speed and add the auxiliary oil resevior and pump and have dual hydraulics as i have done...

That is referred to as patina and it seems to be the in thing now. If you watch any of the collector car auctions these days the 1967 to 1987 Chevy regular cab trucks are very popular. Sounds like a great father/son project. Being a camper truck it probably won't have tall gearing for good fuel mileage, probably 4:11 or something in that range to handle the extra weight. If you plan to just make a driver out of it you may want to ditch the turbo 400 and get a TH-700-R4.

This is the BEST way. These are excellent. We have a few too. Also some brown plastic ones from. Home Depot.