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I urge you to be careful. As you begin to enjoy different attachments on your tractors, your subconscious will begin to want more and more of the cool stuff to hang on your tractor. It is a dreadful addiction. Wheelhorseitis (among many other names) is a terrible condition. Only awareness can stop it. This is how it starts. Next you’ll find yourself enjoying the smell of new tires and fresh paint. In the last stages, you’ll begin fabricating and modifying. That’s when you realize that the damage is done.

I decided to try these out. These look much better that what you see else where, because of fitment. Others have to be retap the holes on the bladder. Also the T has to be filed to fit into the 1/2 turn notch. I think these are so far and looks much better that aftermarket junk.

My daughter and granddaughter (only grandchild so far...) at a tractor show in the UK (she moved there back in April). It wasn't a WH show, but at least they had this one there.... her hubby was kind enough to take this picture and send it along.

I have heard that some used a vinyl base board as a deflector on rear discharge decks. But then I didn't spend last night at a 4 star motel, and I don't have a rear discharge deck so this might be disinformation. So I suggest you check it out your self first. I don't want to upset anyone.

@kpinnc @ebinmaine I feel the intervention has come too late…

I believe awareness ADDS to the volume of tractors.....

Yep. It’s only to corral the clippings a bit farther out from the deck and to redirect them downward. It also helps keep the acorns from flying too far The mounting holes were already there in the deck housing. I used big box store vinyl cove base left over from a project--thankfully a decent color!

We were able to spend the beautiful Sunday showing off a few of the round hoods. It’s always a great time making memories. We were even lucky enough to bring home best and show garden tractor with the 702. They boys and I put a lot of work into it last winter and it payed off.

PTO bell will just spin if there is no belt on it. Causes a little more wear on the bearings but that's it

You sold your loader?

Well, the Bravada is gone, but the dream is not over. I have a new tuning program coming today, that allows me to get into a vehicle’s computer system and alter maps. I recently bought a new winter beater, a 2005 Chevy 2500HD regular cab long box Duramax. It was non-running due to a severely corroded fuse box, and the dash was torn apart too with the P.O. attempting to troubleshoot. I’ve got it now to the point it’ll turn over and sometimes fire, but the vehicle’s Passlock security system now thinks it’s being stolen. My HP Tuners module will allow the ole laptop in the front seat tuning, from deleting VATS or Passlock, to auto lights, to allowing turbos and more fuel maps, etc.

Remember when we used to laugh at anything "Made in Taiwan"... Now they're the good stuff. Norman for President!!!

I had to head back to my company's HQ for a couple days, but returned this afternoon and got a smidge of work done. The first item was the brake disc which was fused onto the spindle. I drenched it with PB Blaster for several days, tried a couple different pullers, a pickle fork, heat... rinsed, repeated but no go so I finally cut it off and have a replacement on order. I also got the rotted tires and tubes cut free from the front wheels (not quite as bad as the rear ones, but close!), I'll get them cleaned up then do some fiberglass patching next on all four of them. I've also been noticing some junk weeping from the shifter, at first I thought it might just be dirty water as it was sitting outside, but thinking it might be a bad seal? I'll be doing some research on this, but any input would be welcome... and since I'm in the thick of it, I'm feeling like it would make sense for me to drain and put fresh fluid in the transmission?

And purchased a loader project… still not complete

I always remove my PTO brakes. Makes it much quicker to change belts . And like Don noted, less hours on the big needle bearing.

@ebinmaine prompted me to put this up here. This is on a 36” geared RD deck but the principle is the same for the 42” belt RD. I used ordinary stainless hardware--round headed hex socket screws with flanged nylock nuts

It’s one bearing or the other! 😁 Letting is spin means it’s turning the “throw out” bearing the same as if the PTO was engaged (although with less load on the bearing, for sure) If “braked”, it’s turning on the internal needle bearings.

Simple stuff! When my package comes, I can’t wait to dive in!

You are correct, my loader was from a standard size C series frame. The GT14 and 953/1054 frames were much wider and heavier duty.

hi MainelyWheelhorse, you might want to make a back flap for that RD deck. i use old inner tube, stops the grass clippings from getting all over the rearend of the tractor. this is especially important with a hydro. i do see you are running an 8 speed. just a suggestion regards mike

@Pullstart @WHX?? The piece that Pullstart is referring to is very similar to mine. I'm guessing that differences are due to frame size. Figure that it is WH made. Wish I had the loader or whatever attachment that went with it. I do have a snow plow/front blade that was on the tractor when I bought it. It didn't use that bracket. Snow plow was originally yellow or green, seeing remains of both colors of paint. It is wheel horse made, has a label. It is rust colored now and needs a lot of work. I'll try and shoot some pictures today.

Found an old post where you stated it is a 2004 model. The only black wire on the diagrams are the grounds. Wires with yellow insulated terminals are not original. Is the other yellow connector to the left connected to the chassis metal and the same wire? That would make it a ground wire and was probably added to the regulator mounting screw to double up and it is often recommended by members if there is a charging problem. Click on the tractor in this link and again on the diagrams that come up to enlarge them.

I helped my brother by mowing the last piece of his lawn with my 42”RD deck that I moved to the 312. The 42” came with the 308. The bigger deck definitely worked better in the tall grass than the 37” SD that came with the 312.

My Kids and my Neighbors kids having a little friendly Competiton! There in their late 30's now! Gosh, Please let me bring back them days!

I ended up getting the AC B-110 out today to tow the 14-8 up the hill to my shop. I didn't have much time after getting the boat cleaned up and covered for outdoor storage in October - won't be able to get it in for shrink wrapping until November, and using the AC tractor to move the dock sections into the winter storage spot. The no move problem on the 14-8 looks like it might be more than a missing key and set screw, as the input shaft did not appear to turn while I was pushing the tractor while it was in gear. Strange thing is, there was not any unusual noise from the transmission before it quit running. The shifter seems to go into all the gears without any problems. OOPS. I have not checked to see if the high/low shifter is between gears. Got to remember to check the simple stuff first! I'll leave ya'all with a pleasant image. Shot it off the deck tonight just after sunset: Edit: Got to quote one of the political candidates - "Sometimes I can be a knucklehead". I went out to the Horse shed tonight and found that the hi/low shift lever was indeed between gears. Must have bumped it when I got off of the tractor to start taking the dock out of the lake. Didn't think of that cause, since I had not used low range on my way to the lake. Knowledge for me, a tidbit of wisdom for the rest of you - check ALL of the simple things first.

me being 14, and my dad owning a auto repair shop, sometimes but very rarely we get lucky like this, there was a customer that had a 1982 Chevy c20, he repainted part of the engine and could not get it to run and did not want to put any money into it so he gives it to us, the title in our name we brought it home, at first I thought some awfull looking mirrors, today I think I figured out it is a camper edition, anyone know why they are rare or people want them, this was free, has a differint engine, small block Chevy still with a turbo 400 tranny, not Shure on the dif gears yet, I don't have pictures on here yet but it is red I believe , or rust, there is just sun wear and some surface rust but really clean underneeth. I will get pictures tommrow afternoon, thanks and I will post more in the morning it is almost midnight now. -Keaton

Ok, Ok, that’s not so bad… After 20+ years of searching for a loader, I have pretty much decided it’s an item I will not have. A couple have appeared, but down here the price was insane or it was in such poor shape (or both) that it wasn’t feasible. Guess I’ll drool over the pictures, or maybe one day just take the leap and buy a smaller farm tractor.

yes that's the one. Just wanted to make sure it was ok. Thanks guys.

Ground for the rectifier.

@Dawgman made a point of tying battery ground bolt point to engine using a bolt on cable connection , and from there to related poor ground spots , lights rectifier . switches etc, never count on a cooling tin for ground transfer , very often related bolts are rust coated . also like an electrical enhancer , lube / spray , check as you set up . pete

@Burt B thanks for the reply ! went to 2 fuel filters after , my typical fuel tank debris issue , was looking for a cure / stop to the REPITITION of fuel hose in my carb bowl , since using STABIL ,in all my fuel , have had zero debris in , my tanks , filters , or carb bowl , must be working , this is a very typical problem to many , ethanol fuel , without stabil , devours rubber related hose. add 1 1/2 oz to all my top offs , no debris . red/ tacky is good stuff , but since going over to the lucas HD GREEN CHASSIS GREASE on any rotational movement point , especially bearings , really like the way it just stops , lubrication failure. also like black moly lubes . made a point of eliminating repetitive problems , found horses can be made much improved , with functional detailing , often nothing more than firming up sloppy connections , lube and verification of said spot . ever try PUSHING A CHOKE / THROTTLE CABLE ? haw about 3-1 penetrating lube and spring pull assist to close movement ? spring assist in any move , pete

Here is a link where I did some rework on mine before selling it. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/84537-stormy-the-1056/?page=4&tab=comments#comment-977398

@BurtB another opportunity , while you have that frame stripped down , run a 5/16 steel brake line , into the upper corner of frame , out of sight , easily secured with related frame holes , or drill a few , make that your new fuel line , eliminate a lot of fuel hose rot , put a filter close to tank , another close to carb , only clear vinyl at end connection points . clean out tank . just a thought , pete

@19richie66 nice looking set up ! simple / solid /strong tire / wheel combo looks very solid , just got some new front wheel bearings myself , going in today . pete

All the gt14’s I have seen have the cheesy 1/8” flat plate across the front of the frame. This looks like someone welded a new piece in its place with a purpose. Maybe a blade with outriggers that had a rodnthat went to the hole on the side? Anything is possible with a welder. I replaced my factory “plate” with a 1/2” plate and put an Attachamatic on it. Never have had a mower on it. Aldon’s thread is also where I got the idea.

I'll investigate further, but it appears to be original. The paint has consistent rust/wear with the rest of the frame. Doubt it was PO. While I could grind it off, I kind of hate to if it's original. It won't be any trouble to drill a couple of holes and bolt a piece of angle on. That will give me a flat surface to mount to. The extra standoff should also allow me clear the tire. I ordered 2x3 angle. The extra inch should allow me to put the holes in the bottom angle where they'll be pretty much invisible when the assembly is removed. I'll end up loctiting the Tach-O-Mati to the angle. Angle will be held with nylock nuts.

The company I hired I to right out of college in 1978 was working on a tire pressure monitoring system. They had prototypes running in some of the company cars. Didn't go much further until the combination of practical on board automotive computers, cell phones, and SUVs becoming popular replacements for the family sedan happened. Part of the SUV revolution was getting them to feel like the family sedan in terms of noise, vibration, and harshness - on a truck based vehicle. Think Ford Explorer here. Remember the Ford Explorer rollover issue? Usually happened at highway speeds brought on by a sudden large steering input - maybe like dropping wheels off of the road while talking on a phone or in reaction to a tire blowout. Turns out that Ford specified a tire pressure to make an acceptable ride that was lower than the tire maker's recommendations based on the operating load of the vehicle. In essence, the lower pressure took away the safety factor built into the pressure based on load. In real life, folks would let tire pressures fall, which caused vehicle handling to change, and tires to run hotter - some to the point of failure. The National Traffic Safety Board ended up getting involved, investigating, and finally requiring tire pressure monitoring systems on all vehicles. Tire pressure needs to be maintained. The current TPMS give you a warning long before the tire pressure is critically low. Consider it a reminder to fill the tire at your earliest convenience rather than a do not operate the vehicle alarm. The Corvair might have had a better reputation had TPMS been available at the time. Letting the tire pressure get low in the rear tires of the Corvair aggravated it's tendency for tailing throttle oversteer to the point that the average driver lost control. OK. I'll step down off of my soap box now.

Found parts for my headlight Installed said headlights Replaced filament bulbs with bright LEDS Question: Where should the wire for the headlights be routed? The old wire was missing, so I'm not sure the best way to route the new one.

I believe that if you hung tractors from the ceiling, the mice would still try to make a nest in them.

Milosz - Welcome. That is a VERY ambitious project. You also need the rear axle quick mount. And - the angling lever & rod are not shown - you need them too. A suggestion - are you better off modifying a different brand, but similar size plow to fit your needs??? Perhaps @gwest_ca can supply documentation.

The reborn B-80 is now officially complete. The 1976 went from me buying it new at Chandlers in South Bend to a B-160 3-4 years later. It stayed that way for over 4 decades as it got the snot worked out of it. Mowing, tilling pushing snow, dirt and gravel, you name it, it did it. Here it is shortly before the 160 conversion pulling our oldest daughter (now 46 years old) and grandson around. As you can see, I haven't changed one bit. I've painted several engine shrouds and hood letters with pretty good results but nothing beats the decals @Vinylguy makes. I applied the engine letters this morning. When I first put the K341 on it I decided to remove the B-80 hood stand decals with the intentions of getting some B-160 decals made for it but never did. Just as well. Along with the engine letters was a pair of shiny new B-80 8-speed decals. That make everything official. Obviously I won't be mounting the 48" mower deck on it anymore but that was never the intention. This is now dedicated to the snow/dirt blade and will stay that way year round. Or until my next whim.

I bought another one. From what I saw and was advised on here it’s an 87 308-8. Most of this afternoon, I’ve been freeing things and getting it running. It looks worse than it is. I got everything unstuck and running so it’s just minor stuff now. The deck looks pretty good too.

Mine has the original engine,clutch, transmission etc. etc. Runs like the day in June of 1986 when I picked it up. 105,000 miles on it.

@mrc we tried that but lifted up both sides we will try again tommrow, @jmc that is sweet looking, and in the glove box all it says is camper loading information, its a blue sticker. AND IT DOES RUN!!! we did not ever try starting it because the tech at my dads shop said it didn't run, 2nd crand fired right up, it misses but at about 1/4 throttle it will run, we moved it a bit it will run about 10 feet then die, but cant beat that for free, thanks, and I polished all the chrome the bumper and the trim that was left with a sos pad, and washed it

Long bed with dual fuel tanks and eight lug hubs, just right for a camper. Love the look of the patina.

How about leaving it on and building a trolley with a winch or a chain hoist and lifting the front of the tractor up to clean underneath and service the blades?

I’m going this route, purpose built machines. I’m not good with low work so I don’t like changing them, like others I use dollies and profanity.

If they work out maybe I'll ship this 86 & 2013 out and you can '' warm them up'' a bit for me. If, you promise to go easy on the 1st test run.