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Reminded me of the day I stopped at the barber shop after cleaning a rusty pair of wheels with a wire wheel on a 4.5" angle grinder. After working on my hair for a few minutes, the young female barber left out a blood curdling scream and said there is a wire sticking thru your ear.. This was before body piercings were quite common. She refused to touch it and had to get a male barber to pull the one inch wire that passed thru the lobe of my ear. Moral....wear your safety equipment

Oh, that's an easy fix. We had a D9 Cat with a right track that wouldn't lock. You just had to back up to turn right.

Should have changed the oil on this Mag 10 right before I pulled it so I could have warned it up. Oh well, drained it “cold” and she now has fresh Rotella.

Yes. The starter on the KT-17 and KT-19 are the same as the M-16, M-18 and M-20 horizontal or vertical crankshaft engines. Removing the hood will give you ample access to get at the starter, no need to pull the engine. The starter on your 18 twin may just need to have the shaft cleaned and lubricated with some dry graphite lubricant.

Go best of both worlds... You can make a right with a looooong left loop.

Almost. It just seems to want to turn left. Right turn is almost non existent. I want a dump truck not a race car.

My new gas tank bushing and shut off valve come in, so I was able to run it a little longer than the jar of gas allowed the past few nights 😂. I think I’ve got the points set right and the carb dialed in, and was able to test the hydro - so far so good!

When I let Lincoln at A to Z Tractor know what we had going on here he immediately sent another pipe right out. Here's the two side by side: And all installed.

Forgot to post pics of my GT-14. We changed battery, oil, fuel filter, trans filter, and trans fluid today. Forgot to grab an air filter. Tractor will now spin tires if rider-less against a tree. Right wheel spins if I'm sitting on it. Doesn't sound great, it will need engine and trans rebuild. PTO clutch is stuck on. Electrical is a mess, have one wire with a break that I have to jiggle with to get it to start. Will throw a wire nut on it until I redo electric.

The title of the thread is WHAT DID YOU DO TODAY? We all know that BBT and her mom do all the work around your place, did you at least take the picture?

And brings back memories from the 1940s of our annual family reunion at Idlewild Amusement Park. As poor Appalachian kids, we saved our Christmas and Birthday money for this summer trip to the park. A couple pics circa. 1948-9 ? Our Gang...I'm the little guy on the right. Just arriving at Idlewild for a family reunion.

This may be a wacky suggestion, but just out of curiosity, take off the air cleaner and spray some starter fluid, carb cleaner or brake cleaner directly into the throat of the carb and see what happens when you try to start it. Before I replaced the carburetor on my 416-H, I could crank it for what seemed like minutes and it would not fire. But a shot or two of brake cleaner fired her right up. If she runs on the "starter" fluid, you have a carb or pump problem.

Seems like this would be a more visible and definite on/off

Not the same as what you guys are showing..but I was thinking about something like this for my 1960s wheel horse tractors as a quick disconnect while displaying at different shows and such.. I had people turn keys and lights on when I’m not around …

Best it was found BEFORE she snagged it thru the comb !!

Napa $6.50 qt

It's connected to the wench as it will draw power. It's just a cheap Ebay switch 100 amp. I had been disconnecting the ground cable to the wench.Third picture you can remove the key to lock it. I don't even take the switch key out of my tractors. I was going to mount it on the dash the hour meter didn't work, But it a smaller size little less then the 1 1/8" hole it's mounted in.

I have had 17 and 20 HP twin engines and never used them for mowing. IMO, they burn too much fuel and throw off too much heat to be used hot summer mowing. I do still have my 520H with a heated cab and a dual stage blower. It has only been used for snow removal. BTW, I use turf tires and rubber chains on the 312H for pushing the 48" snow plow, and I am amazed by the traction. And of course they don't mark up the paving on the 5 driveways i keep clear.

My 312 H is my main worker. The M12 engine and the Eaton 1100 tranny handles a 48" SD deck and a 48" snow plow with no problem. I have changed the 6" fronts to 8" and added a primer bulb in the fuel line for instant starts.

All I did was drive around in a box truck all day delivering building materials.

All back together. Runs. Drives. No leaks. We'll run it. Cool it. Repeat. Then send it home.

I spent some time today cutting the steering column bracket out and rebuilding it. It took a while but I think I figured out how to make it work. As you suggested @953 nut I will have to add a bracket to extend it behind the steering column about 7 inches. I will also have to extend the pivot plate to lower the connection about 3 inches because of the height I had to mount the dash. I'll post pictures when I get it built.

FYI

I was thinking same thing... even I would know when it was on/off...

I never liked stuffing the plugs in my ears. Always use the muffs when possible.

Underside of hood painted. Not perfect, there are bubbles in the paint for some reason.

When my mother had her first knee replacement the results were so good she couldn't wait to have the second one done, great improvement in her mobility. As @adsm08 said, they won't last for ever, my mother's replacements were in need of replacement after about 30 years but at that point she was not a good candidate for the surgery being well into her 90s. My wife and I seem to take turns being caregiver for one-another, so far the only replacement part needed was a shoulder for my wife.

Nothing wrong with race cars! The drag link on the 953/1054 crosses under the frame pushing and pulling the steering arm on the left front spindle. Your steering box is too close to allow this to happen. May need to improvise a cross shaft mounted behind the steering box that will be rotated forward and back by the Ross box and have a lever nearer the center of the shaft to attach the drag link to.

@Docwheelhorse is the man on Briggs and Stratton powered Wheel Horses, hope he has the answer you need.

That answer has a pun in it - the word "draw" !! Having worked at a facility that made quality Automotive switches and devices, the key to having a switch like that survive is the amount of current it sees while on and the amount of parasitic draw it has to isolate. That is based on its construction - size & material of the leads & contacts, spring load on the contacts and the material the housing is made of. Another factor is if it is sealed against the weather for water intrusion. If any of them are marginal, the switch will heat up and ultimately fail. Our switches were built to survive a 150% consistant max load for extended time - got to see the testing in action during one annual product line re-validation quality run. Kind of like watching paint dry - no issues. BUT, I did get to see the thermal meltdown of switches of the same rating from both domestic and offshore competitors for the same test... Try not to set the Test Lab on fire.....

Does it have locking set screw on it if so loosen up the screw put some lube on and work it`s way up. This was from years of people pulling up to get off the tractor.Enjoy the ride.

A similar bearing to what holds the front of the steering shaft can be installed there. 2 bolt flanged type.

Oh, both my knees are qualified for replacement. I'm just waiting for Mrs.K to finish her therapy from her latest foot surgery. Maybe this winter

Absolutely. Wally world is pretty reasonable at under $20 per gallon around here.

Used that new front hitch to get the splitter dialed in.

Matt, Here are my thoughts, not saying I am correct, just thinking out loud. So I am assuming all of the following are known goods. No bent spindles. No bent blades. Deck is attached appropriately to the tractor. From your picture of the lawn, it looks to me that all 3 blades are not the correct diameter, too short. This would leave a gap in between the rotors, not allowing strips of grass to be cut. The blade diameter is critical because blades are NOT timed and have very tight tolerance at the meeting points at the tips of the blades. I see you have the Gator Style Blades. Did you buy them or did the deck come with them? I put down some notes to try to explain what I have experienced with the spindle and deck alignment. Let me know if something is confusing, they are just chicken scratches. Also can you let us know the history of the deck? Just wanting to know if it ever had welding repairs or deck spindle cracks. I think we can get your deck back to cutting that golf course flat beautiful look! Steve Note Aug 20, 2024 WH Deck Cutting issues.pdf

We just purchased our play-farm including 100 year old farmhouse, spring house, separated 2 car garage with old forge/workshop in back, chicken coop, steer shed, and 9 acres or so. Bought a GT-14 with snow plow (WH brand), 48" mower deck (WH brand), a seed spreader, and roller for $500 a couple of days ago. Got the GT-14 tiller and 3 point yesterday for $400 in another deal. Will be looking for disc and dirt plow at some point. The place hasn't been taken proper care of in a long time. I mucked out the spring house the other day. House is in pretty good shape, will be upgrading from 100amp to 200amp. Garage needs a new roof (rafters still good), electrical, workshop/forge has had groundhog activity and the brick floor is heaved in places. Bagged the big groundhog yesterday, still after the little one. Chicken coop needs at least one new wall, not sure about rafters yet; maybe I can save it. Have three pet potbelly pigs and a big fluffy white shepherd dog. Hope to convert part of the coop into a barn for pigs and dog. Steer shed is in good shape, cinderblock walls. Will need new fencing throughout. From the deep south, now in Pennsylvania below Pittsburgh. Totally in love, the deer and squirrels here are bigger, the roads and schools are better, the blackberries are sweeter, and it's not so freaking hot. Winter is coming, though. Real winter is a concern: something I've never experienced. My girl is from Pennsylvania. Machinist by trade, 25 years or so. CNC programmer, mostly mills. Better with CNC mill than manual mill. Better with a manual lathe than CNC lathe. Part of my new land is separated by a road from the rest and has 3 phase poles as it is in an industrial zone. That's where I'm going to build my shop. Did plant management and consulting for a while and am sick of it. Have a 6" '44 Atlas/Craftsman lathe including milling attachment. Will be getting a CNC lathe and mill, as well as manual of both. Learned I'm not happy if I'm not working with my hands. I'm sick of management and fluffing people. I'm going to build a small one-man shop and get a helper, maybe my son if he likes it, maybe a trade school kid. I'm only going to do 40hr weeks professionally, sick of 60+ weeks. Have a '98 Ford Ranger XLT that I keep in proper order. Runs tight, no codes. Have a '98 Chevy 3500 dually box truck that I bought a couple of months ago and moved us; needs a ton of work if I decide I want to. My girl and I saved for years to make this happen. She works remotely as a coding nurse. My GT-14 is supposedly a '69. Needs a lot of love. Haven't investigated much yet. Got the snow plow off yesterday. Failed the immovable object/spinny tire test. Engine just about stalled at full throttle while pushing against a walnut tree as I eased deeper into forward. Tires almost wanted to spin. Tranny was groaning. PTO runs all the time, but that may just be a failed brake. Needs new cables. Needs muffler. Needs lights and front lenses. Needs electrical inspection, see a lot of homemade junk in the wires. Needs new batt, had to jump it yesterday. Has oil and hydraulic leaks. Blows some smoke. Have only done a little research on the GT-14, but I'll get it in proper running order. After I run temp electrical to garage, I'll be sharpening mower blades and attaching deck. Should have more than enough power to mow for now. Have a lot of tall grass to knock down. Drive belt was missing, have a 1/2" 71" standard V-belt as the drive belt was missing. We'll see if it works or if I have to get a more specific one. Hope to have this done today. Other than checking fluid levels and maybe PTO clutch, I'll likely run as-is until fall to get things mowed. Hope to figure out tranny and engine during fall while mowing and snow plow aren't needed. My current todo list covers a full legal sheet and is still growing. Lots of things around here need proper fixing.

The Starter/Generator has power applied to the armature during starting function therefor polarization is not required. No, there are two sets of windings, one for starting and one for charging. Be sure your battery cables are in good condition and move your ground cable connection to one of the bolts on the S/G itself. Here is part of a long article about S/G voltage regulators. Troubleshooting Charging: 1. With the engine running more than half throttle, measure the voltage at the A terminal, it should be 13 to 14.5 volts. If it is 12.5 or less, ground the F terminal, if the voltage goes up to 13 to 14.5, most likely the problem is the regulator. Other possibilities are the wire from the F terminal to the voltage regulator, and the ground on the regulator not being good. If the voltage at the A terminal is 14.5 to 17 volts when you ground the F terminal, the regulator cut-out section is probably not connecting the A terminal to the battery. If the unit is measuring 13 to 14.5 volts at the A [without an external ground applied to the F terminal] terminal, the voltage measured at the battery should be within .1 or.2 volts of the voltage measured at the A terminal, if it is the system is working correctly

With the rounded corners and the grinding on the bottom, I would call those blades spent.

Yep. Sounds like the only part left is the carb. Have you done any cleaning/adjusting to the carb? Does it act any different with the choke open vs closed during start up? Any chance the muffler is totally blocked?

Before I got into wheelhorse I was a die hard Briggs fan...of the flathead from late 70's and on.. I do believe that in late 78/79 that was Briggs response to the smother running engine crankshaft to Kohler shaker plus grenade gear balance. Also that engine shouldn't have points the switch from points to solid state ignition began around 1982.

I assume you pull the plugs and find a wet plug to know it is getting fuel. Could a too rich fuel mixture be drowning the plugs. Liquid gasoline will not burn, It has to be a vapor.

I will try to take some, wife and I are headed there in the morning(Thursday). Will have my 50th Anniversary 416h with us, maybe the green/yellow sulkey for her, or she might bring her restored 520H to ride instead. She hasnt decided yet.

Next task on the C175 is to replace the hoses and rebuild the lift valve. Valve is leaking like a faucet. Parts from WheelHorsePartsandMore. I’m sure this is going to be a fun task.

Ours is kind of "What did you do FOR your Wheelhorses today?" We spent a few hours putting a new tarp over the 13 x 20 portable garage. The front side is tied to the original Shelter Logic front strap. The back has 4 straps crossing diagonally and several lengths of paracord. There's a row of rocks down each side at the base. Hopefully this will hold for another 2 years or so.

Worked my 414-8 with a 42” RD hard today. Mowed the in-laws place in preparation of an upcoming house sale. Had to mow the back twice to get it knocked down and looking good. If ya blow up the pic you can just see my WH waaay out back. She got a well deserved Rotella oil change when we got home.

This is another front hitch option. I bought two of these a couple years ago but I believe the maker is still selling on eBay. the beauty of this design is that you can place in your tractor in front by removing the top attach a matic bolt on the frame and installing a longer bolt to secure. The hitch rides on tight but you can also place your front mile drive with the hitch - so you can mow and tow! Towing from the front is like having power steering!

Looks like you bought a better bearing and housing. The one on the tractors are just thin steel housing not cast. If you look right behind the pivot for the front axle you will see the bearing you need. See post #13