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@JCM This is a subject that I think of from time to time. I currently have around 18-20 running, usable Wheel Horses and one 416 parts tractor. I’m just about out of indoor storage space and honestly that’s probably a good thing. I have them in my garage, basement, enclosed trailer and an 8x12 and a 12x24 shed. Ideally I’d like to have them all in one place but I’m not sure that will ever happen. Sometimes I look around and wonder what am I doing with all these tractors? Some I have restored for show, some I use to work with, some I just have because they were given to me or I inherited them. Whenever I think I should get rid of one of them I drive it around and think no I like this one, I should keep it! Really I don’t need all these tractors but they do make me happy. I suppose that is the case with most of us here on RS, they do make us happy and even proud to own them. One thing I’m pretty sure about is that I’ll always own a Wheel Horse. This Wednesday 8/21/24 will be the anniversary of when I purchased my Work Horse GT-1800 brand new 40 YEARS AGO ! I have no plans of getting rid of that tractor, ever. Some of my tractors have sentimental value, some not so much. I guess that will help decide which ones go first when the time comes? I’m not sure. For now I’m just going to hang on to what I have and be thankful for them. I rarely go hunting or fishing anymore, Wheel Horses over time have become my “Thing” it’s what I do in my spare time. Admittedly, Jim’s comment about the recliner and remote control (or going on Red Square) sometimes is easier than working on tractors. So whenever I think about downsizing my collection, I think nah not quite yet. Someday, but not yet!…………

I put this together for my own reference and thought someone else might find it useful. Pls let me know if any errors or omissions… 308-8 86-88, M8 310-8 85-93, M10 312-8 85-95, M12 312-A 86-87*, K301 + M12 312-H 90-92, M12 314-A 85*, M14 314-8 93-01, M14 314-H 93-97, M14 315-8/GT 02-07, Kohler Command 414-8 86-89, M14 416-8 85-92, Kohler K341 (85-86) + Kohler M16 (87) * Onan P216 (88-92) 416-H 90-97, Onan P216 417-8 85-86, Kohler KTQS 417-A 85-86, Kohler KTQS 418-8 87, Kohler M18QS 418-A 87, Kohler M18QS 418-C 87, Kohler M18QS 420-SE 86, Kohler M20 516-H 88*, Onan P216G 518-H 88-89*, Onan P218G 520-8 90, Onan P220G 520-H 88-99, Onan P220G Hydro’s with an “*” are Eaton 700 Transmission. Those not specifically noted are Eaton 1100. 520H's in 1990 have the Forward Swept Axle (FSA) but no gear reduction steering. 1991 and up 520H's have both FSA and gear reduction steering.

Steering column bracket made.

Picked up a craftsman stand to put my media blaster on and added wheels. Now I just need to build a platform so I can reach it

This is a slot hitch i made with information given to me by some of the kind people on this site . Geoff

The fittings on a Wheel Horse are all 1/4-28 thread, the mixed box you get at retail stores has a lot of 1/8" NPT fittings that are seldom used on anything but industrial applications.

IMHO your best bet will be to get the size(s) you need and order bulk from McMaster-Carr. Top notch quality.

https://www.google.com/search?q=3%2F8+heim+joint+female&sca_esv=d56ff37365ff7dbd&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&ei=g_PEZq3PE_Di5NoP8e2w8Ak&oq=3%2F8+heim+joints&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiDzMvOCBoZWltIGpvaW50cyoCCAAyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEdI_hRQAFgAcAF4AZABAJgBAKABAKoBALgBAcgBAJgCAaACDpgDAIgGAZAGCJIHATGgBwA&sclient=gws-wiz-serp along with threaded rod , makes it quick / easy to make up a connection . the other thing about heim joints is the effortless angular direction . my pto levers are ridiculously easy to engage / use , also on clutch rod , if you paint them red , only you will know , pete

Got a break in the weather. Underside of hood primed. Not a perfect job but OK for my skills

Between the holes in the front, cracks on the bottom and no brace making it feel very flimsy I was on the lookout for a better hood. However, now that the holes and cracks are welded up and the brace welded in I thought I might as well sand it down and see how it looks. You are right, it looks pretty good with the scratches and surface rust sanded off. Now if my paint job turns out we will be good to go. If not I will sand it off and try again. Hoping to begin painting on Thursday if the weather forecast is correct about sunshine finally.

What to do when your 1/2 done mowing and the PTO/deck belt decides to retire? Poke around up in the rafters till you find one that fits.

Calendar shot??? Me thinks so ...... Looks like a couple of new RS Members in the making...

Our two oldest grandchildren were out on their great grandfather’s 1067 this weekend. Great practice for getting behind the wheel of the real thing.

@hotajax those front wheel spindles should be , hand lubricated to ensure lubrication insertion , like to remove bearing side shields . clean out and use a 550 deg hi stress / load lube , lucas X TRA HD chassis grease , bombproof , also get some spacers / washers to snug up the wheel bearing connection , eliminate the wheel side to side play , thats what eats the bearing mount area out . destroys the wheel . actually very easy to do . while you are there grease the front axle mount to frame and the wheel spindles , while the wheels are off , like a vinyl top spindle grease cover , protects from crud , up on jack stands , pete

Ed that is my brother's method. I am always fascinated that he can eventually find one out of forty or fifty!!

Did lots yesterday and today. More over the next few days, too. Can't really talk about it just yet, though. Just leave you all in suspense.

Electric Pump! The old 516H will not longer go up hills and I've got a 35° incline in my backyard that used to not be at issue. Last time this happened, the float was too low so - fixed. This time, had to be the pulse pump so decided to go the electric route with one of Eric's recommended Facet-like pumps. Larger than I thought it would be, managed to install it below the tank and atop the trans. Took plenty of time to figure it all out - where to place it, etc. Opportunity to pressure wash the grime from the trans pump. Wired it to the coil and it's glorious. Starts quickly and climbs with the deck on and full throttle/full speed. Back to normal for the beast.

Switched seats around from my 416 to the 314 mowing/... tractor. Seems more proportional to the higher gear reduction steering on this 314. MUCH more comfortable than an oem seat! I'll be on the look out for a 4-5 series adjustable seat soon. (Bottom pic is newer, higher seat)

Worked my 414-8 with a 42” RD hard today. Mowed the in-laws place in preparation of an upcoming house sale. Had to mow the back twice to get it knocked down and looking good. If ya blow up the pic you can just see my WH waaay out back. She got a well deserved Rotella oil change when we got home.

@ebinmaine can you elaborate a little more on the wheel spacers , i.e. stud size of spacers and thread and what size are you drilling the holes out to in the wheels. Thought about putting some fatty's on the back of the 701, it can get a little "unstable" on the sides of the hills around here. Thanks

The ball joint ends are the same it is the shaft ;length and threads that vary

Yup, you’re right. I’ll fix it. Thx!

I believe that 1997 was the last year for the 520-H, correct me if you find otherwise.

The first two years of the 310-8 came with a K241 engine, I believe the same is true for the 312-8 (K301).

Thanks, I’ve ordered from them as well many times, but that valve is on back order.. as is the order from another well known dealer for the same valve..

1953 M-37w/w

Ive seen that also, people that repeatedly run them dry. This morning, having done absolutely nothing to anything...both pumps work fine, its got to be heat related. It was 97⁰ yesterday, possibly they just got too hot.

I dropped about 15 lbs last year. Struggling to do the same this year; bouncing between 5 &10 lbs . The way I’m tracking is by the max I hit a couple of years ago. In all, I’d like to drop about 38 from that max. So, after 1.8 years, I’ve lost ~22.5 lbs. only about 16 more to go. I’m going to need to try harder.

Hey thanks for that! I’ve ordered from two different vendors… so we will see what that produces.

Great introduction! My wife has been collecting copper cookware and antique sewing machines for several years, Every time she suggests that I should downsize my shop I just say "ONE for ONE" and the subject gets changed promptly. Like Randy @rjg854, please feel free to ask for any help we may be able to provide.

NIIIIICE

It's actually red anodized aluminum or as the Brits say aluminium ... I bought it to fit either a Group 35 or 51/51R battery. As you can see I've trimmed one end to clear the Tecumseh starter. Works excellent.

2 Bruce this is a good place for any questions you might need answered or advise you could seek.

@fourwheelhorseman worse comes to worse, I have the valves that came out of a 341 that blew a rod. If they help you, you can have them.

@Ed Kennell A rough draft just for starters. I'm a long ways off but here is a start.

Anyone can buy a gift or worse a gift card. However something from one’s hands is a real indication that someone cares.

Well, it seems that everyone who I contacted to get a replacement t exhaust valve for my k 341 has to either back order them or can’t get them at all.. or their 120$. I’ve tried 3 vendors so far, last ditch effort is eBay believe it or not. It was 19.99 and seems like it’s in stock.. so we will see.

Sooo, here is an update on the brake band and adjustment rod project. Went to the local tractor scrap yard in Kalamazoo and they only had one Wheel Horse in the place. It was a 1996 314-8. I grabbed the rod that goes from the clutch pedal to the clutch linkage because it has a preformed 90 degree bend in it already. Also grabbed the brake band. Using the measurements from @TractorEd I cut the rod to length but left it a little long just to be on the safe side. Measured for a flat washer and pressure fit it on the rod. Had a friend weld it up for me and was again ready for a test fit and check for proper operation of the motion control lever and the brake band. With everything looking good, it was time for final length cut and paint. I didn’t get this pic before I cut the end off but this shows the total length of the clutch rod. Her it is cut with the flat washer welded on. Back to Red like it should be. And now it looks like it came from the factory that way. Or close anyway! I’m not sure how Toro justifies $205 for that rod but I’ve got less than $10 in the rod and the brake band. Thanks again to @TractorEd and all the other members who chimed in with helpful comments and feedback. Jim

@RustyGold nice pick up ! would take advantage of what works and enhance / verify that area , would also get a penetrating oil soak down going on that paint , when wiped out dry should look perfect era patina , would also get that trans oil dropped , flushed out , like hi mileage ATF fluid , for crud cutting action and drive around ability , get some miles and time on that oil , use every gear / range , regularly check its condition for effect , new shift boot , greased on the bottom INSIDE , so it easily slides over the irregularities on top of trans , add a TYE WRAP ABOVE THE BOOT , so it stays in place , like a CLIMBING GEAR OIL , for better spraying / fling , regularly check my trans , always full / clean , good luck with it , pete

I like to have extra ground cables. Redundancy is not a concern on a 12V DC system. The original Wheelhorse ground connects the battery to the underside of the fuel tank shelf. That's fine IF the tractor has no rust between the steering tower and frame and engine adapter and engine. Too many possibilities for interruption. The original cable had a repair on the battery end. I'm not a fan of bolted on terminal ends and the cable was stiff so that went in the round file. I had a cable in stock that had two 3/8 hole ends. I cut that in half and added a 5/16 copper terminal to each end. Heat shrink on all four ends. This afternoon I decided to clean up the side steps. One was on this tractor when I got it. The other is from my 1971 Bronco. Each tractor had the wrong step in the opposite side. ... so I swapped them to the correct tractor. Well that worked out well. First Trina used the heat gun to remove the old grip tape from the surface of the left step. I ground the surface of both, cleaned them with acetone, and added new black sand grip tape. I like to run the tape up the vertical part because that protects the paint from my boots.

Very common to find a Kohler swapped into a Work Horse body. Mine:

Next task on the C175 is to replace the hoses and rebuild the lift valve. Valve is leaking like a faucet. Parts from WheelHorsePartsandMore. I’m sure this is going to be a fun task.

Engine screen is on. Rear wheels have been drilled and mounted. The lug holes need to be expanded about 2 hair's width. The OE 7/16 holes are usually worn some. I refresh them to 1/2 for the wheel spacers. Some of the holes aren't even enlarged. This is definitely a Fat Bottom Girl. Just shy of 42" across the outside of the tires. Same as my other two running C160s.

I need help to see the rear hitch can't twist enough anymore and it falls between the close and distant bifocals..

So much easier to push trailers around for us old guys with necks that don't turn. I have a ball on a mule drive that works fine, but I wanted one off to the side where I could see it from the seat.

Could this be our resident @squonk?

Ah the most difficult decision to make for an addict is to wean off the addiction! I know my brother and I had about thirty at one time six or seven years ago. Maybe thirty or more attachments of all kinds. Located in three buildings (one shed, one horse barn, one garage and a 8 x 24 enclosed truck bed that one housed an experimental aircraft. We liked the round hoods . We started with the RJ's as kids in 1961. Wore one out changing motors and rebuilding transmissions. In about 2006 we decided to take one of my dad;s old 1054's ad redo five years later we have five or six 1054's and two 953's. We were given tractors . We bought tractors from$60 to $1200 or so. We modified tractors like Lawn Rangers, 704's, etc We had almost every type of cart Wheel Horse sold. We had every type of cutter bar or sickle bar. Mowers galore, parts, parts, parts. Electric clutches, hitches , unicorn log splitter, etc. We made social parts -drawbar hitches, extended brake rods, reel mower lift parts, etc. We still have twenty plus and I am hard pressed to name them all. I have three RJ.s in my garage, one outside that is a project with a newly rebuilt transmission I hope to redo (I have five grandchildren and hope some of them may be able to convince their fathers to let them keep one). I have a 701, 702, 854, 1974 B-80, 1997 314-8 in my garage. My brother has three 314's. (two hydros), a 312-8, three 1054s, a 1965 Lawn Ranger, a C 160-8, a B-80, a C-100, a nice 633 , an 800 Special, etc Our thinning plans are probably not very well implemented at this point! It would just be like loosing your spouse!

Meet johnny cash, a one peice at a time tractor. First mock-up on its own wheels. Tons to do but it feels like progress.

@cleat The correct colors are 1971 Lincoln-Mercury Pewter Metallic Enamel for the 1982,83 models and 1982 Lincoln Light Pewter Enamel for the 1984 model. I thought about using the metallic paint but I wanted to keep it correct for the year and the way it was when I actually drove it off and the dealer showroom floor in 1984 ! I ordered my paint through a body shop. Also, you probably know this but that tractor should have 8” front wheels on it not 6” as pictured. As you can probably tell, I like my restorations to look the way the tractor left the factory or better! Once at the Big Show Cecil Pond himself was looking at the C-121 that I restored he said to me “You know it didn’t look this good when it left the factory don’t you!” After that I was smiling for days!