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@JCM This is a subject that I think of from time to time. I currently have around 18-20 running, usable Wheel Horses and one 416 parts tractor. I’m just about out of indoor storage space and honestly that’s probably a good thing. I have them in my garage, basement, enclosed trailer and an 8x12 and a 12x24 shed. Ideally I’d like to have them all in one place but I’m not sure that will ever happen. Sometimes I look around and wonder what am I doing with all these tractors? Some I have restored for show, some I use to work with, some I just have because they were given to me or I inherited them. Whenever I think I should get rid of one of them I drive it around and think no I like this one, I should keep it! Really I don’t need all these tractors but they do make me happy. I suppose that is the case with most of us here on RS, they do make us happy and even proud to own them. One thing I’m pretty sure about is that I’ll always own a Wheel Horse. This Wednesday 8/21/24 will be the anniversary of when I purchased my Work Horse GT-1800 brand new 40 YEARS AGO ! I have no plans of getting rid of that tractor, ever. Some of my tractors have sentimental value, some not so much. I guess that will help decide which ones go first when the time comes? I’m not sure. For now I’m just going to hang on to what I have and be thankful for them. I rarely go hunting or fishing anymore, Wheel Horses over time have become my “Thing” it’s what I do in my spare time. Admittedly, Jim’s comment about the recliner and remote control (or going on Red Square) sometimes is easier than working on tractors. So whenever I think about downsizing my collection, I think nah not quite yet. Someday, but not yet!…………

I put this together for my own reference and thought someone else might find it useful. Pls let me know if any errors or omissions… 308-8 86-88, M8 310-8 85-93, M10 312-8 85-95, M12 312-A 86-87*, K301 + M12 312-H 90-92, M12 314-A 85*, M14 314-8 93-01, M14 314-H 93-97, M14 315-8/GT 02-07, Kohler Command 414-8 86-89, M14 416-8 85-92, Kohler K341 (85-86) + Kohler M16 (87) * Onan P216 (88-92) 416-H 90-97, Onan P216 417-8 85-86, Kohler KTQS 417-A 85-86, Kohler KTQS 418-8 87, Kohler M18QS 418-A 87, Kohler M18QS 418-C 87, Kohler M18QS 420-SE 86, Kohler M20 516-H 88*, Onan P216G 518-H 88-89*, Onan P218G 520-8 90, Onan P220G 520-H 88-99, Onan P220G Hydro’s with an “*” are Eaton 700 Transmission. Those not specifically noted are Eaton 1100. 520H's in 1990 have the Forward Swept Axle (FSA) but no gear reduction steering. 1991 and up 520H's have both FSA and gear reduction steering.

Steering column bracket made.

Picked up a craftsman stand to put my media blaster on and added wheels. Now I just need to build a platform so I can reach it

This is a slot hitch i made with information given to me by some of the kind people on this site . Geoff

The fittings on a Wheel Horse are all 1/4-28 thread, the mixed box you get at retail stores has a lot of 1/8" NPT fittings that are seldom used on anything but industrial applications.

IMHO your best bet will be to get the size(s) you need and order bulk from McMaster-Carr. Top notch quality.

https://www.google.com/search?q=3%2F8+heim+joint+female&sca_esv=d56ff37365ff7dbd&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&ei=g_PEZq3PE_Di5NoP8e2w8Ak&oq=3%2F8+heim+joints&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiDzMvOCBoZWltIGpvaW50cyoCCAAyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEcyChAAGLADGNYEGEdI_hRQAFgAcAF4AZABAJgBAKABAKoBALgBAcgBAJgCAaACDpgDAIgGAZAGCJIHATGgBwA&sclient=gws-wiz-serp along with threaded rod , makes it quick / easy to make up a connection . the other thing about heim joints is the effortless angular direction . my pto levers are ridiculously easy to engage / use , also on clutch rod , if you paint them red , only you will know , pete

Got a break in the weather. Underside of hood primed. Not a perfect job but OK for my skills

Between the holes in the front, cracks on the bottom and no brace making it feel very flimsy I was on the lookout for a better hood. However, now that the holes and cracks are welded up and the brace welded in I thought I might as well sand it down and see how it looks. You are right, it looks pretty good with the scratches and surface rust sanded off. Now if my paint job turns out we will be good to go. If not I will sand it off and try again. Hoping to begin painting on Thursday if the weather forecast is correct about sunshine finally.

What to do when your 1/2 done mowing and the PTO/deck belt decides to retire? Poke around up in the rafters till you find one that fits.

Our two oldest grandchildren were out on their great grandfather’s 1067 this weekend. Great practice for getting behind the wheel of the real thing.

Calendar shot??? Me thinks so ...... Looks like a couple of new RS Members in the making...

@hotajax those front wheel spindles should be , hand lubricated to ensure lubrication insertion , like to remove bearing side shields . clean out and use a 550 deg hi stress / load lube , lucas X TRA HD chassis grease , bombproof , also get some spacers / washers to snug up the wheel bearing connection , eliminate the wheel side to side play , thats what eats the bearing mount area out . destroys the wheel . actually very easy to do . while you are there grease the front axle mount to frame and the wheel spindles , while the wheels are off , like a vinyl top spindle grease cover , protects from crud , up on jack stands , pete

Ed that is my brother's method. I am always fascinated that he can eventually find one out of forty or fifty!!

Did lots yesterday and today. More over the next few days, too. Can't really talk about it just yet, though. Just leave you all in suspense.

Electric Pump! The old 516H will not longer go up hills and I've got a 35° incline in my backyard that used to not be at issue. Last time this happened, the float was too low so - fixed. This time, had to be the pulse pump so decided to go the electric route with one of Eric's recommended Facet-like pumps. Larger than I thought it would be, managed to install it below the tank and atop the trans. Took plenty of time to figure it all out - where to place it, etc. Opportunity to pressure wash the grime from the trans pump. Wired it to the coil and it's glorious. Starts quickly and climbs with the deck on and full throttle/full speed. Back to normal for the beast.

Switched seats around from my 416 to the 314 mowing/... tractor. Seems more proportional to the higher gear reduction steering on this 314. MUCH more comfortable than an oem seat! I'll be on the look out for a 4-5 series adjustable seat soon. (Bottom pic is newer, higher seat)

Worked my 414-8 with a 42” RD hard today. Mowed the in-laws place in preparation of an upcoming house sale. Had to mow the back twice to get it knocked down and looking good. If ya blow up the pic you can just see my WH waaay out back. She got a well deserved Rotella oil change when we got home.

The big Tri State Steam & Gas show is this week in Portland, Indiana. Massive show with a huge swap meet, show area, and many garage sales thru out Portland itself. Who all is going? My wife and I will be there on our Horses on Thursday as it stands right now. Hope to pick up some parts for our tractors. Hunting a nice set of embossed hub caps and rear lift hitch set up for hers, rear lift hitch set up for mine. Hope to see a few fellow WH fans there at the show. Mike

@ebinmaine can you elaborate a little more on the wheel spacers , i.e. stud size of spacers and thread and what size are you drilling the holes out to in the wheels. Thought about putting some fatty's on the back of the 701, it can get a little "unstable" on the sides of the hills around here. Thanks

The ball joint ends are the same it is the shaft ;length and threads that vary

I believe that 1997 was the last year for the 520-H, correct me if you find otherwise.

Thanks, I’ve ordered from them as well many times, but that valve is on back order.. as is the order from another well known dealer for the same valve..

1953 M-37w/w

Ive seen that also, people that repeatedly run them dry. This morning, having done absolutely nothing to anything...both pumps work fine, its got to be heat related. It was 97⁰ yesterday, possibly they just got too hot.

So we are talkiing about a gear driven deck, right??? The ones where the blades need to be timed to prevent colliding?? Did you ( or whoever) hit any objects while mowing?? A harsh hit can bend a blade and / or damage a hardened spindle shaft. And actually bend the overhung end of the cross shaft that mounts the drive gears. I had to replace that shaft on a nice 32" deck - the end of the shaft was bent .020. Timing - the side gear key had also sheared, allowing the gear to revolve on the shaft and go out of time..... Worn gears that have excessive lash can also make for some odd noises....... Oh, one more - check the large cast housing under the deck that mounts the bearings - then tend to crack and break into two near the middle... when that happens only the deck shell is holding it all together...

Great introduction! My wife has been collecting copper cookware and antique sewing machines for several years, Every time she suggests that I should downsize my shop I just say "ONE for ONE" and the subject gets changed promptly. Like Randy @rjg854, please feel free to ask for any help we may be able to provide.

NIIIIICE

2 Bruce this is a good place for any questions you might need answered or advise you could seek.

@Ed Kennell A rough draft just for starters. I'm a long ways off but here is a start.

Anyone can buy a gift or worse a gift card. However something from one’s hands is a real indication that someone cares.

The crank case seals leaking will cause erratic operation like that. No carb or carb adjustment can solve it if that's what's happening. The vacuum pulses from the case is what makes the diaphragm pump fuel, so leaks from the seals will cause the diaphragm to pump at different pressures and rates because of those leaks. You might be able to quickly verify this if you disassemble enough just to get access to the seals. A few drops of old school brake fluid, DOT3 stuff not synthetic, causes the rubber of the seals to expand. Carb cleaner spray does work too but doesn't seem to last as long. Best to let it sit with the fluid on overnight but you could also check it immediately because the fluid will temporarily seal them for a short time to run it and notice the difference in how it runs. If it runs better without adjustments, maybe new seals are available A crappy diaphragm in the carb can also do this but you have a new one.

Al that is great.Start them young so they will know not to buy big box junk when they grow up. That 1067 is looking real good.

I like to have extra ground cables. Redundancy is not a concern on a 12V DC system. The original Wheelhorse ground connects the battery to the underside of the fuel tank shelf. That's fine IF the tractor has no rust between the steering tower and frame and engine adapter and engine. Too many possibilities for interruption. The original cable had a repair on the battery end. I'm not a fan of bolted on terminal ends and the cable was stiff so that went in the round file. I had a cable in stock that had two 3/8 hole ends. I cut that in half and added a 5/16 copper terminal to each end. Heat shrink on all four ends. This afternoon I decided to clean up the side steps. One was on this tractor when I got it. The other is from my 1971 Bronco. Each tractor had the wrong step in the opposite side. ... so I swapped them to the correct tractor. Well that worked out well. First Trina used the heat gun to remove the old grip tape from the surface of the left step. I ground the surface of both, cleaned them with acetone, and added new black sand grip tape. I like to run the tape up the vertical part because that protects the paint from my boots.

Very common to find a Kohler swapped into a Work Horse body. Mine:

Engine screen is on. Rear wheels have been drilled and mounted. The lug holes need to be expanded about 2 hair's width. The OE 7/16 holes are usually worn some. I refresh them to 1/2 for the wheel spacers. Some of the holes aren't even enlarged. This is definitely a Fat Bottom Girl. Just shy of 42" across the outside of the tires. Same as my other two running C160s.

I waste that much time looking for my cameras that was in my hand 10 minutes before.

So much easier to push trailers around for us old guys with necks that don't turn. I have a ball on a mule drive that works fine, but I wanted one off to the side where I could see it from the seat.

Could this be our resident @squonk?

I am like the rest of you! To many and no room. I have six now getting a little tight but I will be selling one with in six months need a winter project to keep my sanity in the winter. I do not know what I would do if I did not have a tractor to work on. This just sits in the garage with a cover on it most of the year on a rug. I have three in the works should last me a few years?

The way I thinned the herd, was by only keeping the tractors that actually have a purpose. The horses have to earn their keep, so to speak. I'm comfortable with the 5 that I have. So that helps to limit battery purchases and upkeep and maintenance.

The other day I used a Wheelhorse to mow for the first time. Bittersweet considering I was doing it only because my father couldn't. On the HUGE plus side, he did get to see his front lawn freshly attended the day he passed. ❤️ This tractor will soon be returning to Maine where Trina has already named it.... after him.

Dodging T storms. Got the first load up to the Steam Pageant.

Meet johnny cash, a one peice at a time tractor. First mock-up on its own wheels. Tons to do but it feels like progress.

@cleat The correct colors are 1971 Lincoln-Mercury Pewter Metallic Enamel for the 1982,83 models and 1982 Lincoln Light Pewter Enamel for the 1984 model. I thought about using the metallic paint but I wanted to keep it correct for the year and the way it was when I actually drove it off and the dealer showroom floor in 1984 ! I ordered my paint through a body shop. Also, you probably know this but that tractor should have 8” front wheels on it not 6” as pictured. As you can probably tell, I like my restorations to look the way the tractor left the factory or better! Once at the Big Show Cecil Pond himself was looking at the C-121 that I restored he said to me “You know it didn’t look this good when it left the factory don’t you!” After that I was smiling for days!

No worries there. We're here to help. I'll get a pic or 2 of a set-up here. My Honey has a hitch like Jim's above. I also have the later design which is basically a U shaped bracket with a tab welded to it. You can get 1-7/8 or 2" trailer balls online that have a smaller than " road usage" mounting thread. Normally used on ATVs.