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Bought out a Wheel Horse dealer's inventory of manuals and parts back in 2003. Kept a lof of interesting stuff and thought I would share a 1964 version of "Stable Hints". I've got a binder of these unique items that cover intracompany correspondence, Interchangeability lists, Wheel Horse Factory Service School manuals for several years, etc. Just thought I would share one to see if the group would like to see an additional internal Wheel Horse documents.

Hi Red Square Community, I am looking into purchasing the below pictured "POND" Walk Away. The unit itself has the cast in “POND” on the chain reduction housing. The two main things I am looking to learn are what value is typical for these to sell for. This one has a Briggs & Stratton model “N” engine. It runs and drives, but the throttle linkage needs some adjusting. It comes with a cultivator and plow implement. Secondly, I was wondering if there is any way to determine what year specifically this Pond is from. The seller believes late 1940s and not 1950s. I am new to these machines, so I am looking for some guidance. Thank you in advance!

Band Brakes as used on WH are self energizing when you stop going forward they work against you stopping in reverse. Big reason not to haul heavy loads behind WH if you have to stop going backwards

Today I mainly went crackers... After looking at various different cars and options we decided to buy a nice new mini SUV. We have ordered a Toyota Yaris Cross, which is a really nice self charging hybrid. Two weeks and we will have a nice new car to drive around in. Lots to learn as it's a completely different driving experience to a stick shift.

Very cool! That same rear end is what was used to invent the RJ25 and RJ35 riding garden tractors as we know them! I don’t think they normally sell for much, but they are a very important piece of our Wheel Horse history!

Here is a short video of me test driving my 1941 Farmall H before I bought it. It had a temporarily fuel tank since the original one needed cleaned. I got the hood and the original fuel tank when I brought it home a few months after this video. As I mentioned, I was talked out of it by a child hood friend who said he used his uncle's H when he was a kid. I hadn't got used to the gears yet on this H in this video, so didn't shift it into the higher gears as I was test driving it. But all 5 gears worked plus the reverse. That thing could get up and move in road gear.

Exactly If you look at the way the band is anchored and wrapped around the drum you’ll see that, when going forward, once the band is engaging the drum it’ll tend to tighten itself even further. That’s “self energizing”. In reverse, the drum tries to unwind/loosen the band. I believe that another factor is that for a given ground speed on the 3- and 6-speed transaxles, the drum turns more slowly (and in the opposite direction) than it does on the 8-speeds (the band does always wrap in the self-energizing direction for forward motion, though 😁).

That tab is more for keeping the belt on the pulley then to grab the belt. Back off the brake adjustment.

Is that Adrain Mo? If so I was there, I was the kid riding around on a

Put cart back together and took her for its maiden voyage around the barn. She looks right at home behind the 701... Still waiting on decal from redoyourhorse.com...

Installed a couple fresh pieces of pipe , a new clamp , and a NOS showerhead to replace the incorrect Briggs style muffler :

Pete and others on here advocate an "oil treatment" for underneath the mower decks for preservation purposes - i am currently doing a deck rehab -- i have typically cleaned rust off to bare metal by either having deck sand blasted... or by using 90 degree grinder disc to "sand" off rust -- then primed and painted. However, i recently got a deck that was in solid condition - no rust through holes, no fractures, or damage, with just modest rust underneath -- so i am trying the oil sun baking treatment to rehab the bottom of deck -- Pete has previously suggested baking in sun for "absorbtion" into metal . I was wondering others experience with this strategy but also... specifically.... how long in the sun to bake the oil -- and is one treatment adequate or multiple? thanks

Please come and join us for the Carolina Fly-Wheelers High Country Crank-Up on July 25-27, 2024 near Boone, NC.

Put the duals on my B-60 to get ready for the Zagray summer show. Switched the front tires to tri ribs since the old ones only held air for about a hour. Polished up the hood and fenders checked all the fluids and greased and ready to go! Also yesterday got my dad’s tractor “MaTer” running for the show. Hope to see some of the New England guys there! IMG_8800.mov IMG_2100.mov

From the Kohler service manual

Wheels out in the sun to dry the paint.

I bought mine at Princess Auto but I see Harbor Freight sells them as well. There are also lots on ebay. https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-paint-shaker-94605.html?_br_psugg_q=paint+shaker I mounted mine loosely on a patio stone to hold it. When I am not using it I just lift it off of the concrete anchor bolts and bring it inside. It would be nice to have inside but I was afraid of doing damage to my shop due to the intense shaking. Also if a paint can ruptures and sprays paint around I would prefer it to be outside.

Wheels clear coated.

Haven't had any noise or lubrication related problems, all my pto cones get rebuilt before i use them. My problems have mostly centered around cracks, thin metal.

@Retired Wrencher https://e-rigging.com/blogs/how-to/eye-bolts-essential-lifting-hardware , easy to make up from this starting point , my own personal take on old bearings , is to replace and clean out / regrease , 550 drop point polyurea grease , have these in use for years now , no bearing related anything , whyining , bouncing ( hang up ) always detail in related linkage , added washers , to firm up start point , red grease , make the rust run out , very typical for me to see , solid , bone dry , movement areas , really ? guy I sold a tractor to , thought anything he touched , was broken ! reality was complete ease of movement , function ! really flipped out on smooth / easy , throttle / choke cables , basic stuff , pete

This was just a 150 horse tractor!!!

Put a set of 24 12 12 on 10 inch rims, The rims had a little deeper back-set unlike the shallow ones WH used and I had to put spacers on so the tire did not contact the hydro brake. C141 plenty of room under the fender tho. I would be concerned if using a mower,. gauge wheels might hit the tires. this one is for looking and not cooking.

Growing up on the farm in Iowa I remember back in the 60's the biggest tractor my dad had was a Farmall Super MTA. It was unique because it had a small gas engine you would start first, then dad would pull / push a couple levers at the same time (no idea what they did) and the diesel engine would roar to life with a huge plume of black smoke. I always got a huge kick out of that procedure. He pulled a 4-16 plow (one of the largest in that day) with ease on that tractor.

As we here know, one can get a lot done with 8-12 hp. Often the limiting elements are traction and the strength of the chassis.

Real tractors horse power was measured at the belt pulley and/or the drawbar. It was effective horsepower not engine brake hp. Nebraska state university designed and conducted the test...(A Nebraska state legislator had gotten scammed by a tractor he bought back in the 20s He got a law passed that any tractor sold on Nebraska had to have been tested. Since all the big manufacturers sold a lot of tractors in Nebraska they all submitted tractors for testing.

My Bronco has a Magnum muffler. No fitment issues at all. C-120 should be no different.

Had a blast this year even in the heat. Thanks to all who help put on this show and everyone attending. Highlight of my summer. VID_20240622_101814103.mp4 VID_20240622_102904825~2.mp4

Some of the smaller details that caught my eye... 60’s style cables Lotsa wheels with axle bolts Creative re-use of an early snowblower shell

Grabbed a 522 couple years ago with a bad rear end, 60in deck, and a front end loader. got it rebuilt, but not back in the tractor, couldnt get the help needed to finish it alone. Hence it sat. till my regular mower died a couple months ago .Back to looking for parts again and hit Craigslist an FB market place awash in wheel horse stuff, YES!! 314-A, 520H and a 522Xi. 314 didnt run wouldnt roll, got it, 2 decks and a grader Blade for $450, now it needs a seat all is well. The 520H came with a single stage snow blower, it was steep at $1500, but it is an absolute cherry, New tires, forward swept front axle and runs like New Lastly, 522Xi with rear discharge Mower on market place, $800. Owned by a really nice kid, He dropped his praice during the convo when he saw the Disabled Vet Tags on the truck. After we loaded, he says I got a an old snow blower that dont work but your welcome to it. He comes back dragging this 2 stage blower and the mule hookup as well, I only had another $80 on me but he didnt want it, I made em take it an told him, the blower was worth more than I was paying for the tractor. Odd Thing , he didnt care but I wasnt having it an made em take it I met his dad, another Vet, really great Folks. Met some really nice folks out here searching wheel horse world. This young man Named Brad was a true Gem as was his Dad. Hoorah!!.

These are 28X12 on 10.5 rims but I made them fit with gt14 rear tins. No spacer and they clear the trailer hitch mount.

There is a small hole that goes into the breather area. When honing, grit will end up in here. Never had an issue with one eating itself. I do change oil a lot at first. Like after 15 min, then again after an hour, then after a few hours, then switch to your permenant oil. The cast iron is pretty soft on these motors,so they do tend to shred some during break in. Also chinese parts for these K series are usually out of spec to begin with. You have to machine the engine for the parts instead of the other way around.

First coat of white paint finished.

I think I'm going to get a used crank, is a crank that is .939 still good for use it confuses me @Achto, I think by the time I have it machined and a new rod this would be better edit: and there was another one at .934 also are they out of wear?

I just replaced belt on my c165 and same issue. I think I need to adjust the tab on the idler pulley slightly forward more so it grabs on the guide below when clutch pedal is pressed.

Those are on a 10" rim, they were hard to stretch that wide, they would be easier to mount on 8.5"s.

24x12-12 airlock. This was a 520 under the black hood & kohler.

IMHO that depends on your opinion and the desired task of the tractor. Your opinion... because it's an aesthetic issue. Personally I like big wide rear tires. Desired task because wide tires do well on loose aggregate or mud but not great for snow.

I do not have a separate paint department, it is I...and I do not like painting so repaint is out of the question...

All my Horses have a task..They get dirty scratched etc. Any red is better than rust brown

Randy, I owned a 1941 H for a few months until a childhood friend talked me out of it. I wish I still had that old H. I'm sure by now you have been over to the Farmall Cub site: https://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/ They also have manuals and literature on the H in their PDF Manuals section.

Really... considering the GTs that are rated at that nowadays... 'Course the torque back then. Letter series Farmalls can't be beat.

After much deliberation I have decided to paint my Work Horse silver aluminum with clear coat. Footrests painted and cleared. Footrest pads cut out. I will let the paint cure till at least September before spraying on the glue. That is nasty stuff that will lift any uncured paint.

I have plenty of rod to make some.

I have all the engine parts and the clutch in a bucket.

Good save. Those K241's are great engines, and easy to rebuild. Same block as the K301. Lots of cylinder to work with if it needs to be bored. Do you have all the other engine parts? I see a bearing plate, stator, and carburetor. Hopefully you have a flywheel and all the tins. And that seat. Worth more than some tractors.

Excellent save!

The most important thing is that the seat is shaded so that you don't get burns on your butt. Seat time is no fun with blisters.

Eric Van Loock one of the original members of the first Wheel Horse Show in 1999 at the South Mt. Fairgrounds in Arendtsville will be at the show today. He drove up 15 hours from Mobile, Alabama! He will be at my canopy some time today too.

I mostly have to edit it, because of my spelling errors, speaking english is easy, but haven't quite got the writing under the knee.