Leaderboard

Grabbed a 522 couple years ago with a bad rear end, 60in deck, and a front end loader. got it rebuilt, but not back in the tractor, couldnt get the help needed to finish it alone. Hence it sat. till my regular mower died a couple months ago .Back to looking for parts again and hit Craigslist an FB market place awash in wheel horse stuff, YES!! 314-A, 520H and a 522Xi. 314 didnt run wouldnt roll, got it, 2 decks and a grader Blade for $450, now it needs a seat all is well. The 520H came with a single stage snow blower, it was steep at $1500, but it is an absolute cherry, New tires, forward swept front axle and runs like New Lastly, 522Xi with rear discharge Mower on market place, $800. Owned by a really nice kid, He dropped his praice during the convo when he saw the Disabled Vet Tags on the truck. After we loaded, he says I got a an old snow blower that dont work but your welcome to it. He comes back dragging this 2 stage blower and the mule hookup as well, I only had another $80 on me but he didnt want it, I made em take it an told him, the blower was worth more than I was paying for the tractor. Odd Thing , he didnt care but I wasnt having it an made em take it I met his dad, another Vet, really great Folks. Met some really nice folks out here searching wheel horse world. This young man Named Brad was a true Gem as was his Dad. Hoorah!!.

Put cart back together and took her for its maiden voyage around the barn. She looks right at home behind the 701... Still waiting on decal from redoyourhorse.com...

Took a buggy ride before it got to hot...

Installed a couple fresh pieces of pipe , a new clamp , and a NOS showerhead to replace the incorrect Briggs style muffler :

I picked up a nice Farmall H at my tractor clubs show a couple of weeks ago and brought it home today. I bought it at a great price and it turned out to the H my buddy owned some years back and he blew it apart and sandblasted the sheet metal and painted everything. He paints for a living so I know its done right. Looks like it has sit outside a bunch since he traded it off, but it is still nicer than most of the stuff for sale around here. This one will stay for a long time unless something special comes along!! First pic is it at the show beside my Cub and the second is after getting it home and cleaning it a bit. It still needs some polish and touch up, but I'm pretty dang happy!

The width of the rear wheel will also affect the tires overall height…narrower wheel means a taller tire once it’s inflated. I think most 520’s have the wider wheels, not sure about the 1988-1989 models though.

I got a c-145 last year and it's been sitting under a tarp until few days ago. Last owner said that it had issues starting, possibly points. I changed out coil/cap/points. Not sure why, didn't get spark for a while, then I got it running. Fuel pump seems original and still working. I changed a carb for a generic one. Bolts don't fit like the old carb, but it runs. Then I realized that choke plate arm is different and I had to swap it out. Lost arm detent rod that keeps choke arm (with the plate) in one of two positions. Grabbed the detent ball from the old carb, drilled out a hole (since it's bigger on the older carb) ... lost that one as well. The easiest way to swap the arm would be BEFORE attaching the carb. Finally rigged just enough wiring to do a test ride, to check out the transmission. I've never seen this engine run plus trans work, so at least I got some confidence that fixing this tractor won't be a lost cause. I need to deal with rust, rewire a bunch of things. I know PTO switch completely rotted out. Solenoid is almost gone, sticks. I got this tractor because 8 speed manual + horizontal shaft engine could be an easier swap for something generic. Very beefy machine, heavy steel. I got other tractors to do mowing, so no rush here. I will probably try to overhaul it by fall/winter and push snow with it (I got plow for it) This is 81-14k801 which means it's an 80. So technically this should be C-145, not the C-141, like the hood says. I believe the hood is original to the tractor or at least it was swapped long time ago. The bolts deterioration matches overall bolts on the tractor elsewhere.

They were on Ebay almost 20 years ago- back when the post office still had the "flat rate" boxes. The seller shipped them in two boxes! " If it fits, it ships!", right? My mail lady was ticked about the two 60-lb boxes! She just left a sticker on my door. I had to go to the office to get them...

Nice score! I have lots of C series parts for the tractor & deck if you find you need anything along the way. I'd be more than happy to trade parts for the seat, just hit me up if you need anything, the C 100 is a perfect mowing machine & good on gas. Your wife is going to love it.

@Boris I think it’s probably this: 81-14K801 1978 C Series Garden Tractor C-141 8-Speed Kohler K321AS-71246A 14 Wheel Horse 103916

Yep, a very uncommon tractor

The belt guard I got with my 551 Suburban doesn't fit over the pulleys. This tractor originally came with a Tecky 5.5 rowboat anchor and the 2 piece transmission. I got it with no engine and acquired a Non WH spec K90 from @formariz at the show. This K90 is shorter than the original Chief but as far as I can tell the pulleys are all the original size. So I'm building a belt guard. I am no metal smith and am limited on the available toolage. I'm making it out of another belt guard that has seen better days. I have it rough finished on the tractor. Outside of of course painting it, I want to make it look a little better. Maybe square off the front? Cut the angle back farther? Round off the front? What do you think? I though about placing the original style guard over the replacement and tracing the patter only bigger but I will lose the side pieces of the guard that cover the belt. The metal is pretty thick and I have no way to bend it.

Thanks Eric, I have dedicated plow tires with chains and wheel weights. Looks like I' m getting the fatties.

IMHO that depends on your opinion and the desired task of the tractor. Your opinion... because it's an aesthetic issue. Personally I like big wide rear tires. Desired task because wide tires do well on loose aggregate or mud but not great for snow.

I just thought they would look good on my 97. I always put bias ply G60s or G50s on the back wheels of my cars in the 70's. Do you think I would be better off staying with the stock size?

All my Horses have a task..They get dirty scratched etc. Any red is better than rust brown

Most of those OLD pumps just have the check valve disks. (Not the POD type) Open it up, DON'T loose the springs, clean the disks and flip them over, clean the seat where those disks sit on, re-assemble. You can verify the check valves are good with a piece of hose connected to the output and try to blow backwards against the normal flow of fuel. Should be minimal air movement. If so, Re-install it and you're good to go. Depending upon the tractor, if the gas tank is higher than the carb, bypass the pump. The pump is needed for hills and such which could put the tank lower.

I would not use it on the port valve type. Maybe a touch on the threads of the later ones. The don't seize up if the are used occasionally and not left out in the rain. I have 7-8 Sunstrands never had a problem so I don't use any.

I have found that WH part numbers for O rings USUALLY contain the O ring dash number. The last 3 digits are the dash # this applies to the later Hydro gears..However the wheelamatic used different numbers on some things. Also the Wheelamatic doesn't show the part numbers for some internal things (you weren't supposed to mess with them like o rings for acceleration valve innards. So look at the hydro gear section of the Sunstrand manual...by then they decided you could work on it and the sort of standardized #s last 3 equal to Dash # The three you listed with old WH numbers are 970010 is a Dash 011 970014 is Dash 015 97053 is I think Dash 118. The dimension in the Wheelamatic manual don't make sense ID is larger than OD I have many of the o rings when you know what you want i can give you what ones I have...

When the seller and buyer are both smiling at the end of the deal, it is a terrific day. Well done.

That is the tire size WH used on many D series... they were mounted on 10.5" wide rims C series 7.5" some 520s 8.5"

Paint shaker I bought a couple of years ago has been a godsend. Makes even the very old spray cans free up and work like new. Of course it works on regular cans of paint too.

Great haul!! You did good on your purchases!!

Decided to go a different route while waiting on Regal Red paint, so rolled on some truck bed coating. Plan was to paint over it but it doesn’t look bad like this in my opinion. The lights make it look like there is a real dark stripe on one side of bottom of bed but doesn’t look like that in person.

Put a set of 24 12 12 on 10 inch rims, The rims had a little deeper back-set unlike the shallow ones WH used and I had to put spacers on so the tire did not contact the hydro brake. C141 plenty of room under the fender tho. I would be concerned if using a mower,. gauge wheels might hit the tires. this one is for looking and not cooking.

These are tractors ..tools ... For tools red is red

Firstly thank you for your Service. It sounds like you had a good Day ended with lot‘s of fair Deals for both sides. Great when the Folks be that nice. Wish you some Fun with the new toy‘s 👍

@sqrlgtr a perfect Match 👍

Finally managed to identify the forward dampening valve with the help of @pfrederi. Took apart and it looks to be in pretty good shape as far as I can tell. Ill go ahead and replace the O-rings . Looks like it takes two sizes large and small. Large 970093 small 970014.

I will point out that my favorite red is what some of the recent Mazdas are wearing. Deep and vibrant. It’s called “Soul Red Crystal”. Multiple base and clear coats.

Just to follow up my test results mirrored squonks' picture with the int red a little lighter or maybe not as red if that makes any sense lol.

thank you for your service! Those Xi machines are monsters, you don’t need me telling you that. Make sure to jack up the front end BY THE FRAME and inspect that front axle pivot when it’s suspended. It was the only weak like I’ve found on my Xi thus far. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/92609-xi-series-front-axle-pivot-repair/

Why do you want the wider tires, for looks?

Looks great 👍

Real tractors horse power was measured at the belt pulley and/or the drawbar. It was effective horsepower not engine brake hp. Nebraska state university designed and conducted the test...(A Nebraska state legislator had gotten scammed by a tractor he bought back in the 20s He got a law passed that any tractor sold on Nebraska had to have been tested. Since all the big manufacturers sold a lot of tractors in Nebraska they all submitted tractors for testing.

Thought i updated this post. Got it mounted front and rear, drilled a lower hole through the rear mounts, and bolted it, works good, its a bit slow but it does give me nice precise control

WH 7478 5/8 84"

390,000 H's and another 30,000 Super H's!! That is a lot of tractors!!!!

Tractor finaly working Change the filter in the tank 4.50$ Thank you all for your help

Depends on the brand of tire and actual measurements.

Now you just need to come up with a heat shield on the burb to help with the jewels on that ball burner.

Not sure. I have 4 xi machines running. The larger deck 60" will make the gauge run right up on the high end before red. The others ran with 48" decks run similar to your readings. I use Rotella T-6 full synthetic oil, 5-40. The cooling air has a path designed to effectively cool the engine on these machines. Make sure the foam seal is in good condition between the engine and fire wall. This keep the hot air from re-circulating from the engine compartment through the cooling fan. Another thing is the side panels actually direct air flow. The cooling air comes through the shroud across the heads and out the front. Probably not the best idea leaving those off. (it allows the sending unit and filter to be cooler but what we want is cooler heads and sump.) Make sure the cooling fins on the heads are clean. I use a small 1/8 brake tube rigged up to a blow guns so I can keep those clean. Also, keeping the sump air cleaned too. Along the bottom of the oil pan. As an example. I checked the temps on the exhaust. The pipes coming out of the heads run right around 700. The muffler shield will be 200 itself. No secret air cooled engines run hot. 274 is on the upper end (and not a deal breaker for synthetics) but that is the reason we change oil so frequently in air cooled engines. A tell tail sign is when the oil starts to blacken. Sounds like your on it!

Mebbe......

Happy Wednesday Afternoon, Wife and I took a roadtrip today, left house right around 6 am. Stopped at a nice fellas house by the name of Josh in Elizabethtown PA. He was acting as the middleman between Jason and owner of this restored C120. Josh also mentioned he runs the Lebanon PA winter show in February--he says its all indoors and 6 or 7 buildings. I may have to look into going... Then onto my GT2500 in Jacobus (York) PA... met an equally nice gentleman by the name of Keith Kauffman. Walk down to his garage and there sits a 1970 Plymouth 'Cuda 4 speed!!! Dang!!!! He recently just put a 408 stroker small block in it and has the original 340 on stand. On way out of town I looked up the dealer that had placed there dealer sticker on the Briggs shroud and found them. I stopped in and asked the gentleman if he'd like to come out and see one of his tractors head north. He came out and started talking... then took me for a short tour and told me about the list of every tractor they ever sold until Toro took over in 1986. What a cool old dealship... they didnt have any shift boots but I bought a 7473 8 speed drive belt to get him a few bucks. I told him about Redsquare and the big show and that he should look into going---the shop is about an hour away. Now its onto dinner with wife and then heading home tomorrow. Tony

Make sure your brake adjustment isn't too tight. I had the same issue on my 857 and the cause was the new band I put on caused the linkage not to move as far as with the old worn out one. This caused the idler pulley not to release enough.

Got a ram off Amazon, adapted it..im going to have to put a pin in thr rear mount because the fender pan hits when lifted bit the ram works great.

Thank you Karl for giving the Euro section of other Brands , I will kick this off with my little collection of Trojan Toraktors Built in the early 60`s by Trojan motors . Thes tiny tractors are actually smaller than an Wheelhorse RJ 58 The have the Clinton 1290 engine. The story goes that Trojan bought a large amount of Clinton engine for a project that fell through & they were left with all these engines with nothing to do with them , so they came up with the idea of using the engines for a garden tractor & so the Trojan Toraktor was born .. They only ever made 500 of these tractors & theere were only 4 series of them ever made The MK 4 series was the most raest as they stop production of them during the making of the series 4 and so only a handful were ever built .

Dont make them like these anymore. Just tough as chit!..:)