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Need a drill press? Our grandfathers were resourceful folk. Lets say you have an old Ford rusting about the farm, and you need a drill press? Never fear, these plans will carry you to your goal. Driven by means of a 1/4 hp electric motor, this homemade drill press, built mostly from old auto parts and a few items obtainable from your local hardware store, is sturdy, accurate, and smooth in operation. A cut-off portion of an axle housing is mounted to a brake drum, which, in turn, is bolted to the bench top. The spindle bearing is a small grinder head and is clamped to the housing by means of two lengths of angle iron and a connecting-rod bearing cap. Read on and in no time you will know how to make your own drill press. .

Got together with @Sailman for pleasant lunch and a little horse talk today. I gave him the steering wheel from Kevin @Pullstart and the hood from Randy @rjg854 as well as the belt guard I scored at the Big Show for him. Rick was a pleasure to get to know, hope he will make the show next year.

Covered the shed doors with metal. This was a free cover sheet from my sons metal roof order.

Last December I had a vision on a color scheme of a satin black base with gloss accents in mind . So I went into my parts inventory grabbed a frame, and just started building . 1955 /56 hood on a 1958 tractor .

Getting ready for the new shoes.

I’m pretty lucky.I have a place local that will dismount and remount all 4 for 25.00.

Well Gentlemen, we have a conclusion, the purpose of alcohol is meant to be drank and not burned.

Added four more magnets to the line up. This was a test run. Next up is the 953/1054 grille, GT-14, 60’s style and then the C & D series. Going to try and get them all made up. Yes…… also working on the senior.

So this was my 3rd morning driving in booming Austin’s morning traffic. My elderly Mom just had a Pacemaker installed at the cities speciality Heart Hospital . Last night great grandson asked if his electric grandma now had a Lithium or Energizer battery. As I pulled onto the crowded 4 lane wide cross town freeway a Tesla with California plates and the drivers head in a iPad across her steering wheel went by. I truly remember my mind saying to avoid her! About 5 miles down the road in heavy stop and go traffic I got a mild bump from the rear. Got out and somehow the same Tesla ended up behind me. My trucks trailer hitch ball was embedded in the flexible plastic front of her electric Tesla. She stepped out with iPad in hand and apologized, saying something about her automatic braking didn’t stop her. I had no apparent damage but took a picture of vehicles and her drivers license. Before I retired I would end up in Austin once a week or so. But now there sure are a lot more out of state license plates and expensive Tesla’s these days. Mom goes to rehab/home tomorrow and no more Austin driving for awhile.

I pay $30 for 4 or $10 for 1.

"Do I look Like I've put on weight?" Sorry for the drama gang, My tractor is feeling a bit conscientious. I was finally able to get to a scale and see what we weighed together. Our target combined weight of this team is1050lbs. Below is what we tipped the scales at. What I found was either me or this tractor had to gain 85lbs. We discussed the situation and decided that there was a slim chance that I would be able to gain the weight in the next couple weeks, so it was up to the tractor to pack on a few lbs. Next questions what to use for weight and where to put it? To answer the first part of the question, I had some more 3/4" x 6" flat stock laying around that I wasn't using. So I grabbed my trusty 4 1/2" grinder and hacked out some slabs. Also found a piece of 3/4" X 4" to hack up as well. All of this added up to 73lbs. Now the second part of the question, (where to put it?). Well this tractor happened to have a tool box under the seat that I wasn't using. . This spot would be perfect as it would put all of this added weight directly over the rear axle. Before adding the weights I cut some strips of wood to suspend the slabs over the contours in the bottom of the tool box. The stack of slabs fills the tool box up perfectly. I drilled some holes in the top 4 slabs & bolted them together to ensure that they could not work their way out of the tool box. The remaining 12lbs was added to the dumb bell bar in front of the rear wheels. Soo other than a few counseling appointments to get the tractor over it's weight gain complex, I think this team is ready for competition.

Just joking on that title. Our 1974 C-100 has been slowly torn down for the eventual rebuilding. I don't want to add a lot of photos but here's the photo that fits the title:

thanks good old 76years

All I was going to do was change the spark plug.

Then I'll find two of them and sell you one for twice what I paid

That can of Kroil will help.

The max wear limit of the crank pin is .9350", new size is .9360" - .9355". Measure you crank pin in several spots to check for out of taper & out of round as well. If it does not fall with in factory specs, then it should be turned down and an under sized rod would be required. If this needs to be done, determine what under size you will need -.010", -.020" are standard under sizes. Once you determine the size you will need, order the new rod and take it with you to the machine shop. Have them size the crank to the correct clearance for the new rod. Rod to crank pin clearance is .001" - .0025" If the bore is with in specs then you can use the old piston with new rings. Berryman chem-dip works well for cleaning pistons, carbs, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-Products-996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor/dp/B00DSMEL2A/ref=asc_df_B00DSMEL2A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693467268860&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15159149524155813824&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019421&hvtargid=pla-714363490952&psc=1&mcid=c8e04f709e863048bee0f4b873ae42bc&gad_source=1 Here is a Kohler manual with all the specs & instructions that you will need to rebuild your engine. https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2379.pdf

Chuck’s a good one to keep in your corner! He always has an eye out for the deals at the show! unless you are looking for the same thing as him, that is!

Remember to keep that outside tire at VERY low air pressure.

I think I have to stop complaining about challenging conditions for working on my tractor! You have fortitude to do this in the open!

Up in till 4 years ago I have been storing 50 gallon of gas every summer for the last 35+ years during hurricane season for my generator. While that may sound a bit extreme down here you can be out of power for weeks, my longest was 22 days. When one of these cat 3s hits down here the gas stations can be down for days and when they start operating again you are most likely restricted to 10 gallons and have to sit in line for a couple of hours. Over the years I've tried all the (as Mr. Maynard calls them snake oils) out there some help a little some don't do anything. About 12 years ago I started using a product call PRI-G, one ounce stabilizes 16 gallon for two years at least that's what they claim. When I started using it it seam to work better the any of the other said snake oils. One year I keep a 2.5 gallon can of ethanol untreated and one treated, poured some of both in two different jar after a year and the treated looked better then the untreated, the untreated had some water separation. After two years there was a big difference the untreated looked pretty funky and the water separation was amazing. For the past four years I have stored 65 gallons of propane, it's a no brainer. So after all of this my point is I still use the PRI-G for my outdoor equipment and my boats and while it may be just snake oil it is very cheap snake oil. A 16oz. bottle is around $30 on Amazon and it treats 256 gallons of gas, you can do the math.

That and Unibody construction makes for flimsy end product if you decided to strip one down to the basic frame. Newer transverse mounted front wheel drive engine/transaxle units could be rear mounted to make something akin to the Allis Chalmers "G". Triggering the coil pack is done through the ECM computer but with a bit of innovation this could become a mechanical process driven from the crankshaft. The EFI replaced by a good old fashioned carburetor and one of @Pullstart's extra bus seats and an old motorcycle front fork and you've got a one of a kind home built trike tractor.

Just got done installing my new seat I got at the big show from Brian at K & B Horse Parts @76c12091520h I had to drill new holes in the old mounting brackets for front to rear spacing. The dimples in the brackets were perfectly spaced at 7 inches like my 520 so all I did was drill out the dimples then it fit perfectly Brian did tell me the spacing was off so I expected to have to modify something.

Will it bolt on? NO But if you have a grinder, a welder, time, and imagination, you could make it work. Probably cheaper to buy a 312 H.

Gas tank is still holding up with no leaks

Great post and thanks for sharing your faith for our country I was in Vietnam from 1969 to 1970 air force on the F100D and the F-4D Made and lot of buddies and lost a few. I am 76 now and can still see the ones we lost and ones that got home. Just be clad that we have the freedman in this country that we live in. We lost 56000 in the war God bless America

Kroil = great stuff!

Just wanted to give a big thanks to Docwheelhorse for the cart, cafoose for hauling and handling transaction and Pullstart for letting cafoose know I was needing help with transportation. Finally home but worth the wait plus me and cafoose even done a little “horse trading” when he finally came home lol..

Sweeeeet….i don’t know how I got along so many years without mine.

I’ve been changing my own tires for many years. I use the HF changer, but 2 major differences with my setup 1. I also have the HF motorcycle tire changer adapter (which they no longer sell). It allows you to change small tires as well 2. I don’t use the included mount/dismount bar. Instead, I use a tool my buddy makes and sells call a Mojo lever I just pulled the tires off my RJ wheels using the setup in this thread. I took some pics and left a link to the Mojo lever too if anyone is interested

Looking forward to see how you do on your legit pull !!

For all concerned, the TORO MVP.com is gone. However, this TORO website may help with stuff mad AFTER Toro took over Wheelhorse: https://www.toro.com/en/parts Go to the lower left and select PARTS/Manuals. Enter the model number and you can at least see some schematics... I entered deck model 05-42MS02 and tractor model 520-H... schematics were shown for them.

Just to let everyone know .I had a new pin and bush made for gearbox that had snapped out of stainless Steel for £15 for both..bargain..works a treat.

I have a compressor head I'm mounting up front to be my lil mobile compressor. And it added some weight to the back.

Yes it should fit both. Will be lacking HP though.

@JPWH that is great picture. We hope they do the same when they are our age.

I have no other choice lol. During the winter the gazebo is turned into the covered work area and storage for winter equipment. Plow snowblower and other projects for the warmer winter days. The 1277 came a long way.

Max did an oil change today and I put my weighted dual wheel adapters on they still need to be welded together but they are on.

Since ethanol will require more gallons to be used, and taxes are paid per gallon, there is quite an incentive for pushing the fuel that brings in the most taxes. Pure gasoline has an energy density of 115,600 BTU per gallon, while ethanol has an energy density of 75,670 BTU per gallon.

No, it doesn’t.

That organized chaos looks familiar - finally getting around to working on my 502 in the basement....

Ideally radar NON-reflective, right!

Radar reflective?

Had some of the grandkids over on a hot summer day. Set up the sprinkler so they could play in the water. So what did they do? Headed straight for the tractors!!

I’ve ordered a complete Gravely unit (since in a week I’ll need my mower running!) but bring what you don’t need to the JCM meet & greet and I’ll gladly pay you on Tuesday (And with that insurance policy in place, I’ll never break another bowl) 😁

I have a Magnum 12 that had a faulty oil level switch. I bypassed the connection and just make sure I check the oil often

A few images from our community garden D-Day commemorative display.

Hi Everyone. I recently rebuilt the pto clutch on my 1976 C-120 and figured id post some pictures and part numbers to save other time who are doing the same. I have the 6.75" OD clutch plate and didn't want to spend the money to get a new one from Toro so i ended up doing some research and re-lined it myself. I wasn't sure on the material so i took some measurements it looks like the originals are .125" thick stock. Clutch Material: McMaster #60895K11 http://www.mcmaster.com/#60895k11/=11rane8 It comes in a 7.5 x 7.5" square so you also have enough to re-line your brake like i did. I found the easiest way to cut it was to trace the OD of the old clutch plate and for the id i found a 4" angle grinder blade was the right diameter. I used a set of snips to trim the OD and a jigsaw to do the ID and seamed to work well. Extra material: Thin jigsaw blade i used: Final product: Now i also increased the contact area versus the original. The old one only contacted about an inch in width this one i had full contact on the bell of the pulley. My pulley was scored so i face it clean on the lather removing only the minimum need to get a full clean. YOu can chuck the narrow end of the bell on the pulley, just make sure the face is true (axial run-out <.005") I now have 2" of width on contact, it should work much better now. I prepped my old clutch backing plate by removing the old work clutch and the worn out broken rivets. Using a die grinder with an abrasive wheel works good. I then used a rougher disk to make little rough grooves in the face to make sure the clutch adheres better with the epoxy. Note the old contact area. Once the backing plate is cleaned use air and carb cleaner to thoroughly clean the new clutch material and the backing plate. Now i used Loctite 380 Instant Adhesive. We use this at work for similar materials on clutches and brakes. its oil heat and impact resistant and is literally the strongest fastest drying adhesive i've ever used it really works wonders. It cleans up with carb cleaner (even on your hands) t available the cheapest from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-135423-Toughened-Instant-Adhesive/dp/B000132VEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459388480&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+380 A zigzag pattern gives the best coverage to ensure it contacts and sticks evenly. Now make sure you just stick the clutch onto the backing plate and not the pulley I used the pulley as a plate to clamp the new lining onto the plate with the help of 3 clamps and left it there overnight. Just make sure the pulley is up so any drips don't stick the pulley to the other half. Now you can use those leftover pieces to also re-line the brake: same idea and process here... Since i had the whole thing apart anyways i decided to replace the bearings, they are a fortune from Toro and some aftermarket ones just didn't seem to be of high enough quality. I ended up finding a package deal on the originals on ebay so i figure did post the OEM bearing specs so you can find them yourselves locally or online its easier knowing the bearing manufacturers number than a Toro number. Ball Bearing (on the end taking the PTO thrust): Fafnir P204RR6 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Fafnir-P204RR6-Single-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00FAY909S Needle Bearing (on the inside of pulley holding the radial load): Torrington J-2420 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Koyo-Bearingd-8600rpm-Maximum-Rotational/dp/B007EDPF4C Grease Seal: CR 14810 (Chicago Rawhide) Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/SKF-14810-Small-Style-Diameter/dp/B00CLIVXNM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1459389503&sr=8-3&keywords=CR+14810 Locally here in RI/MA i always use Eastern Bearings in Prov, RI to get all my bearings and seals they have reat pricing and can get you anything you need but you can also find them online at many places. Just be careful the letters on the ends usually mean different seal types so make sure you look into the whole part number. Hope this helps! Good Luck! if you have any questions ill try to help.