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Just don't text and mow.

20240131_131823_1_1.mp4 Here's a video of it running for a few seconds. Not much bandwidth for video.

Here is the second group of one wheeled garden tractors beginning with one that is being made today. Plow Hoss If you have a desire to own a new one wheel garden tractor the Maxim Plow Hoss (PH50B) is a one wheel garden cultivator with a selection of plows that is sold today. It does everything a mule and plow used to do only faster! “A tiller grinds up the ground. This (Plow Hoss) turns the soil over like a plow, and the 12-in. sweep takes care of weeds,” Because it is narrower the cultivator can be used later in the growing season than a two wheeled or four wheeled garden tractor when plants are mature. The Plow Boss retails for about $1,500. Cultimotor Here is another Mono Wheel walk behind garden tractor with very little reliable information available. This article and some advertisements are all I could find. The Cultimotor, manufactured by the Shelby Tractor & Truck Co. at Shelby, O., has a notable advantage in its ability to pass between narrow rows, allowing cultivation regardless of the height of plants. Tool holders of various lengths, attached in a few minutes, are adapted to any of the standard garden tools, such as hoes, cultivator teeth, disks, side-hill and moldboard plows. Tools are thrown in or out of service by touching a foot lever. A clutch at the left hand and a thumb throttle at the right give control. "Having only one power wheel of exceptional width, more traction is obtained than in the 2-wheeled type, which allows a slippage of the wheel on the side of least resistance," state the makers of this machine. The drive is through gears and chain, enclosed in metal housing, while bronze- bushed and hardened roller bearings as- sist in obtaining a minimum of friction and wear. To withstand the hard usage to which a tractor is bound to be put, rolled steel is used throughout in framework construction. A 4-cycle air-cooled motor with enclosed flywheel magneto produces the power. It is equipped with a device for removing all dust from the air passing to the carburetor. A small belt pulley and an attachment permits the use of any hand lawn mower in connection with the Cultimotor. A gasoline consumption of one gallon per ten hours, with oil consumption of about one-quarter pint, is claimed for this machine. Source, June 22, 1922 The Florists’ Review 23 Holler One-Wheel Garden Tractors Very little information can be found about the one-wheel tractor manufactured by F.H. Hollar, Singers Glen, VA. They were perfect for garden use. You can go through well-developed garden rows with one of these one-wheeled garden tractors to the point where the vines have laid over and you can’t even see the ground, and you cultivate it and it doesn’t harm the crop. The one-wheeled cultivators wouldn’t work up untilled ground but once the garden is in a the one-wheeler can maintain it. Montgomery Ward The only thing I could find concerning the Montgomery Ward single wheel garden tractor was a photo, if you know more about them please add it to this thread. It may have been built by Gilson Tractors as they built many types of lawn and garden power equipment for Montgomery Ward.

Installed some brand new LED headlights that I got for my birthday from my Grandma on my C-145 today way brighter and way more distance. No DIY I did it just about all by myself it was just plug and play. I can post the link if you guys want they were on scamazon

The weather was beautiful! Here are some pictures. This place is MASSIVE! You would have to spend a few days here to see everything. I'm taking my golf cart next time, not sure why I didn't this time They have a couple different areas. Flea market, engine displays, tractor displays, a village with displays, tractor pulls, vendor section, camping, etc. Not many Wheel Horses, but when I saw this I thought @wallfish was here! I didn't have mine here this year, but I plan on joining the IH Florida Chapter 27 club that has their own building at Florida Flywheelers where you can display. This particular tractor came from the same collection I bought my Farmall H from.

If or when she ever wants to remove it, we can do that and stick a solid foot rest back on. We’ll stick the parts in a box for her kids to learn how to drive a tractor

All: If this tractor sits unused for a couple of weeks, it can be difficult to start as the tank is lower than the carb. I wanted to add an Outboard Motor Primer Bulb in the gasline, but my main concern was to have it safely protected from external damage. I came up with a design based on an antique kitchen onion chopper. Made a wooden cradle to hold the bulb and guide the upper pusher. Added a hole in the rear fender and the seat hinged bottom to clear the rod & knob. Raise the seat, give it a couple of pushes down on the knob with the fuel turned on, lower the seat & start the tractor.... I do not have or use a tiller; this occupies the space where the rock shaft would live.

Kevin, I'm glad to see you aren't using ladders any more, A work-mate on a pallet on top of a billiard table is so much safer. I just looked it up for you and as it turns out OSHA doesn't have any prohibition to that particular arrangement. ps the additional lighting is a great idea.

Well after a couple of years of farting around, cleaning, building, rebuilding and gathering parts I finally finished my little JD horse and a half hit miss engine. It was in sad shape when I got it, but it had all it's pieces. Here's some pictures.

My dogs said winter is officially over, so I spent the afternoon dropping the plow off the 314-8 and replacing it with the wood chipper. My neighbor had half of a big willow tree come down a few weeks ago during our last storm, and I'm assuming its going to get put to use as soon as things dry out a bit. That pic is deceiving....its a HUGE tree! Its gonna be a workout. Also took the time to drop the snow blower off the front of the 522xi I picked up a few months ago.....It came off pretty easily, but holy crap, that thing is a load!! I gotta think on it for a bit, but it may be destined for the "for sale" pile. I don't have a good property for a blower of that size, and we have barely had enough snow to plow, let along blow over the past 5 years. The footprint is basically the same as the tractor. Eats up a lot of room.

And the rest of the build…

One spring punched and bolted as per your advice guys. Looks pretty neat and if course nothing will be able to move out of line now.

A handy tool to have. https://hftools.com/app61747 Yes you can take it to a batteries plus for testing as well. Batteries should be fully charged before load testing.

With any electrical problem the first thing you should do is have the battery load tested, auto parts stores will do it for free. Next you should clean, inspact and tighten ALL electrical connections including grounds.Any connection that isn't clean and tight will result in a significant voltage drop.

Got one of those Endless tread Garden Tractors some years ago and Restored it , It's a 1953 with the Continental AU7R engine .

If we're going to be crazy, my thought is that a turbo is not well suited for single cylinder operation, being lots of time between exhaust pulses. At least two cylinders would be needed, better yet four or more to get an even flow. For singles, how about something like an electric blower and put the carb in a pressure box to make something like a small version of a Paxton supercharger. Wouldn't have to run at crazy high RPM, and no fussy turbo bearings to oil. Head's going to get hot, might have to mill off some fins and put a liquid cooling jacket on it. Or - wasn't there a marine version of the K-181 with water jackets?

During the fall of 2022 my 1987 312-8's engine begun experiencing oil consumption and the summer of 2023 the problem deteriorated with black exhaust emitted from the muffler. I began exploring the options available to me. Should the engine be rebuilt by a local company specializing in tractors of all sizes or send it to a member here on the forum. Possibly to a local man nearby who discouraged me from doing so because of the difficulty of getting a small engine machined in our area. This all led me down the path looking for a new tractor. Price and size came into play. All new tractors are much larger in size and I really like the size, power and functionality of my current WH with its plow, RD mower and other modifications I have made. Not having any interest in rebuilding an engine all of the above pointed me to replacing it. Starting on craigslist I found a 14 horse Kohler, but with uncertain specs to be a replacement. After calling Kohler tech support they suggested contacting Repower Specialist in Eugene, OR. Checking their website I found an engine kit for a WH 314-8 using a Honda GX630 with all the hardware and wiring needed to do the swap. I decided to go that route. Final cost was near the same as a new Husqvarna that was a possible replacement except much larger. Engine kit is ordered, arrives and the installation process begins. First problem is new engine mounting plate does not bolt onto the WH frame. With @ebinmaine's and @Lee1977's help I determine the correct hole locations and create a cardboard template. Speaking to RePower tech support they provided a shipping label to send my mounting plate and template back to them to have new holes drilled and threaded. All at no charge. Altered plate arrives and bolts to the frame without any problems. The Honda is hoisted onto a dolly which allows me to slide the engine onto the frame. Have to take care of this 70 year old back. PTO bearings have their grease renewed and the bell is reassembled on the shaft. Wiring is completed with just one error causing the safety switches to be activated so the engine would not start. I selected the wrong wire from the wiring block. Swap wires and engine cranks, but will not start. The problem is the Honda has a fuel shutoff solenoid and the wiring of the 312-8 does not accommodate this feature. RePower has a work around and sends me a custom wiring harness to provide power to the solenoid that allows fuel to flow. Engine cranks and fires up. Wonderful sound. Today my tractor was put back into service cleaning the yard. A bit more work has to be done to reinstall some of my customized feature, but WH life is good. The original build thread is linked below for anyone interested as well a link to my review of Repower Specialist. Original Build Post Review of Repower Specialist

Great video! But for "all original", that's the wrong hood decals for a Bronco 14... My stripe is wrong, but the decals are correct for 1971 and 1972.

OK, kids - put a price on that??? More like priceless............

@Pullstart and @squonk Those hub caps are ruined . The mug shot is going all the way to the atoms. C4 would not remove it.

Nothing a little CLR or coil cleaner can't take off!

I hear ya. I never mind dealing with the plow, as I can hang the frame on the wall, and lean the blade against it. And my wood chipper is so useful, I will always find a place for it. This thing......meh, I don't know. I mean, if we had "feet" of snow instead of "inches" on snow.....maybe. My long term plan for the 522xi is a front end loader, so I'm pretty sure this will never get put back on. It might have to take a trailer ride to the big show.

What Ed said

Or just disconnect the battery between uses. Battery goes dead might have a shorted cell.

Niiiiice work Paul !!!

201.6 today. Started at 230. My goal is to get to 195ish. My wife has been doing Weight Watchers for 22 years with incredible consistency and discipline. She has been my coach. All I need to do is eat what she feeds me

We were in Detroit last weekend for wrestling state finals. 176.4 today.

Ain‘t be easy to get a Turbo stable running on a single Cylindre Engine you be right, Each kind of Tuning bring it‘s fracts of Power into the System „ Engine“. The goal is to figure out what is needed to run that System reliable and stable. Fails also be part of that process and be mostly more expensive than buy a bigger Engine. Just smack a turbo onto a Engine and get the result in a good running Engine is a bad idea that mostly results in lots of frustration and often a damaged Engine. „the cheapest Way“ is dry NOS for a Short term Boost or a wet NOS System until Engine explodes. Each tuning have it‘s Pricetag. just to destroy a Engine - it was also stated before - drain the Oil and let it run.

This is the kind of garbage that keyboard warriors and rumor mongers have been spreading for 60 years. Follow the info posted above and you'll be fine. My added advice from personal experience: DO NOT use an incorrect tool for removing the flywheel from the crankshaft. https://youtu.be/5XqMo3gUWJo?si=i4Z_prOgHg55TqmA

Not quite ready to mow lawn here yet but almost ready to get the garden opened up and put some taters in the ground. I figured since it was a warm rainy day I would pull the snow blower off and put the new to me tiller on and check everything over before it really is time. Now I just have to wash all the barn dust off the 520 lol

I added some more lighting, so @squonk could keep tabs on my messy work bench

I like the cuckoo clock. I have one in my living room that my parents brought back from Germany many years ago. It still works perfectly.

There I fixed it.

Only do this with a Techumseh.

The 520 I used for mowing last summer then leaf grinding last fall was put away blown off but not properly cleaned. I moved it to the shop and tore it apart somewhat then took it out and washed it. Air filter was pretty clogged so I washed the pre-cleaner and hung it to dry then blew out the paper filter. Leaves got stuck in cooling fins only on the front cylinder so I pulled the sheet metal and cleaned it out. Deck got torn down and I replaced two upper spindle bearings that sounded a little rough. Belt tension idler replaced with a good used one I had on hand. I then installed a set of blades that I sharpened and balanced last year. A new deck wheel was installed because one was a little loose. I then took it outside and oiled it. Next up was the mule drive. The flat idler was loose and noisy so I installed a new 1630-2RS bearing that I added some grease to. The V idler I just added some grease to the bearing. Air cleaner was assembled with the pre-filter lightly oiled. Tire pressures set to 12 Deck and tractor greased. Oil was changed last fall so good there. Hydro oil level checked. Deck installed onto tractor and level checked. Ready for the grass to grow. Poor thing has a Cub tire LOL.

Battery dying between uses. Either the battery is shot or you have something drawing power with the key off. Do you own a 12 volt test light or multimeter?

The flywheel/magnets are keyed to the crank so no worries there. Set the points according to the manual and you shouldn't have any issue there. There should be a gauge on the points cover for gapping. I like to check for spark before torqueing the flywheel and putting tins on.

I found it!! I took the battery out and then i got to the spot in between the fuse and the 9 pin connector, where the break was. The gauges worked for a second then the fuse blew….but it started.. and ran like a champ. I noticed it wouldn’t idle down below 1000 -1300 rpms. I sprayed some throttle body spray at the rear part of the intake and it made a noise. The intakes gasket on the rear side is gone. I have so many questions about the Onan 20! Mine has 1500 hours on it and i wanna keep it running!!

Mine also Joe. I still have plows and blowers on mine, But I will have to mow before Easter so the little egg hunters don't fall over the clumps.

It could be worse- I got one with a snapper seat! Your "worker" machines look as good as most everyone else's show tractors! Keep on doing what you do!

Amazing what get 50 post around here. Then again, as @ebinmaine would say, we are easily amused!

Looks like you also mowed some grass Lane. The first mowing award goes to....

Tranny fill tube

Actually I didn't. Sorry.

Justin, welcome to RedSquare, you should place a wanted ad in the classified section, these occasionally come available.

There goes another quarter million of government research and development money down the drain. Seems our government can't throw money away fast enough funding research on things people don't want to buy.