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Sometimes I swear the smallest things make such a huge difference. My PTO lever was loose as hell, flopped around, and make a metal on metal squeal rubbing on the side panel. I hate that squeal noise because it just tells you something is NOT mechanically correct. Looking on the Toro parts site I saw there was supposed to be a spring attached from the lever to a bracket which mine didn’t have, so went ahead and bought that and the stupid nyliners (why the hell they’re not something better like brass bushings I don’t know). Spent an hour putting them in tonight and…wow. Man, the PTO is so solid now it makes it feel like a firm, serious tractor again! Not even a peep. Plus I did the nyliners for the hood hinge while I was at it and absolutely no more squeals there either. I know, this is small potatoes and doesn’t come anywhere close to the restorations and improvements some of you guys make but this just made my night.

Soil erosion control is nothing new. In response to the extreme soil drifting in Western Canada, Charles Noble develops a system to shear stubble and weeds below the ground and leave the residue on top of the soil to reduce evaporation and prevent erosion. Patented in 1937, more than 10,000 will be used around the globe by 1979 Amid the Great Depression and the Dust Bowl, soil health and regenerative agriculture practices were not commonplace. Soil drifted in "black blizzards," massive clouds of airborne soil that could travel hundreds of miles. Strip farming and planting crops in alternating strips were how farmers combated erosion at the time. But strips could eventually become useless, depending on the direction of the wind. Farmers also used tillage to control weeds at the time, contributing to soil disturbance. Since the dry year of 1919, Noble had been interested in soil erosion. In an effort to get Noble away from some of the troubles of the Great Depression, his friends and family convinced him to take a trip to California. It was there that he saw a beet farmer using a straight-blade tool to cut into the soil and loosen the beets. The blade got to the weeds without interrupting the crops and soil. Noble ended up returning from California early with the idea for the first Noble blade. The Noble Blade was an underground 8-foot-wide straight blade with two vertical standards designed to leave trash above ground while cutting weeds at the roots to terminate them. A decent blacksmith, Noble used an old grader blade with a borrowed forger and anvil. He reshaped the blade and fixed it with two stout arms and a frame. He gave it 2 wheels and a means of depth control. The initial design wasn't perfect, but it was functional.

I like potatoes. Big or small. It's the little things that often make the most difference. Nice work.

Gentlemen, Today I replaced the motion control linkage seal and changed the transmission fluid on the ‘68 Charger 12. No more leak!

Looks like I have another quick project. My wife was offered this today for $100. The shifter cable popped off the linkage on the transmission. I sip tied the cable towards the front driveshaft, holding it onto the shifter linkage today and drove it home in about 6 minutes from point of sale. 2002 Olds Bravada, Vortec 4200 in-line 6, all wheel drive.

I drilled out the holes to 5/8" sawed one bushing half in two.. It's been 11 or 12 years still working great. Also did the clutch shaft the sane way that is the reason I was doing that as the clutch was worn bad.

Good luck don -- sounds like awesome C175 project idea -- if anything like your results of your beautiful restored Workhorse I am sure the 175 project will be special -- I'm wondering if you plan to start a GOFUND ME page to buy the brochure guys jacket and shoes? I was able to acquire a couple C175s a few years ago -- an 83 Series 1, and a 84 Series 2, -- both apparently their original black hoods, plus the raised plastic seat pan fenders -- I have done some rehab on the 84 Series 2, but not much on the 83 Series 1 - both are in use -- that twins certainly have a great sound. Hoping to keep both running and in good condition - Bill

I am planning a full blown resto. She's not in good enough shape to keep original and I haven't painted one in a long time. It'll feel good to get the spray gun out again! If ya got what I need you know I'll be out shoot me a pm with some pics! You know I can pick up in April lol That should give me enough time to get everything prepped, painted and back together by the big show.

Rear bolt pattern is 5 x 4.5. Lots of trailer wheels are made that size. To find a used set you could place an ad in our classified section. Or Contact one of our vendors like @76c12091520h Brian Or A to Z in PA.

Went fine on 3 so far, i really need to get a plug and crimper, the ratcheting crimper i have is good enough but not ideal. I put dielectric grease in the boots and so far all 3 are starting easier,the 416 will usually kick back once but it didn't.

You can try to file the flats on the shaft until they are flat once again. The gear is hardened so it likely is OK but you would have trouble filing that anyways. If you have a really good straight edge, you can check the shaft flats to be sure they are totally flat with no high spot in the middle. If the straight edge rocks on the flat then you can file carefully until the straight edge sits nice and even. Now the shim stock should fit better when you reassemble. Shim until the gear has as little rotational play as possible but it still needs to be able to slide on the shaft. Be sure to shim the same amount on both flats to keep the gear centered on the shaft. You will likely not get it perfect and it may not have been perfect when it left the factory but you can make it better.

PTO clutch disk. Needs lining. Good for a spare if you plan on doing yours in the future. 2 blower chute retainers. Used but functional.

So I have fought this confounded hood for about 3 days now. Still got some dimples in the "brow" up front to fix, but at least it's primed now. All the big dents are banged out. The PO had put something like polyurethane on it with a brush. Problem was he left it in the rain for a while, and it had thousands of little rust filled blisters all over it. I've used paint stripper 4 times and scraped it off each time. Burned out my grinder and wire brush on it, because the stuff just balled up when sanded or brushed. After today's "strip and scrub" session, I got down to factory paint. Easy from there... So I gave her a test fit. Paint tomorrow....

I'm in process of sealing the tank, already got coat, second coat tomorrow. Then I'll get it together good enough to run it and see how it runs and how the transmission works. I got several 8hp kohlers around so I'm not real worried about the engine. I have a set of 3 bolt hubs sitting around somewhere, just gotta locate them. After I get that tested, I'm gonna strip the whole thing down. Blow the trans apart, the whole 9 yards.

Update: I dragged my C-175 out of the backyard and into my shop today. This tractor hasn’t ran in years. Purchased a new battery, filed the points, cut the fuel line so it wouldn’t suck up crappy fuel and sprayed some gas down the carburetor. Vroom! It started right up! Then I drained and cleaned the tank, replaced the fuel line and added a filter. Next I topped off the transmission, then drove it around. I have to say that I was one happy camper. The transmission is nice and tight and the hydraulic lift works fine too. I’m not sure but this may be on its way to a full blown restoration? Also more good news, @Sparky I found the jacket for the picture!

Never saw a "white hood" before. I like it, really makes the stickers pop!

The 854 came with 6.00x12 tires on the rear and 4.00x8 on the front. 854 front and rear are both narrower than what you have, though with similar overall diameter. I believe what you have is stock sizes. The rear hub bolt pattern @ebinmaine cites will be the same for the narrower wheel. The front spindle diameter will be the same (¾”) for the narrower wheel though the hub width might be different so you may need a spacer on the tractor side if you mount the 854-style wheel.

Allis Chalmers Cream.

- Negative terminal on coil (to points) will (should ) flash while cranking. If positive terminal flashes at all there is a problem with the power feed from ignition switch.

Most drugs have many side effects that vary individually. Always check on them even if a Doctor recommends. I was giving med once with side effect of possible Stroke! I passed and dealt with it without.

Here is the difference between plain Rust-Oleum white (left) and Rust-Oleum Navajo white (right)

Looking great!! Excellent progress.

Piston rings will rotate some unless they are pinned as in the case with many 2 stroke engines. Break in or where in needs to occur in order for the rings to seat properly. Once you remove the rings from the cylinder they will never seat properly again and you will have an oil burner that has a compression loss. Then of course there is the recommendations from page 11.9 in the Kohler manual.

Really ... after I posted on FB i may have what you need I got no fewer than three PMs from dudes looking for a square pan! Do I look like a square pan wholesaler?!?!? I don't give it up to just anybody ya know!

Looks alot better than this.... musta came off a Cub.... Just to see if I had spark ya know....

A working tractor is a happy tractor. Some of the ugliest machines I've owned were some of my favorites. You just can't beat a worker!

And less soil displacement due to wind and water erosion.

Who owns who... TTI and Stanley have it pretty well locked up

Given the degree of damage and assuming that you are working your machine vary hard, I’d go straight to the clamp-on style of hub from A-to-Z. The setscrews in the hub are mainly to prevent it from moving side to side on the axle, not to prevent rotation. Axles and hubs that do not mate tightly and evenly on the shaft and the key without any play whatsover will gradually fail.

No-till is the only way to go. Better for the soil, less fuel used, less time, get seeds in the ground earlier due to organic layer decomposing above the soil.

I didn't check the latch on the seat pan: Rich I did that once also. The ones who saw that got a good laugh.

I first though the PTO spring on this c141 was to take play out of the linkage and it does; but I think it is more to with the PTO brake. When off, it puts outward pressure on the bell hoop and applies the brake harder. A novel idea but could have been a little better designed. Although I am pretty sure the PTO brake being so small is only there to keep the bell from turning when not in use.

That was interesting watching the plowing video. I know it was a demonstration but I wouldn't want to be the one trying to bust up the the clods that the muddy field will turn into. I remember when dad went to no till. Mom didn't like it, They had his and her tractors and mom had as many hours tilling as dad. She called not till "trash farming". She liked to see corn stocks plowed under.

867 is really coming along!

Pssst ... I wouldn't have it ready for the 2030 BS the way I operate... Pics of the frames I have & looking at them they are identical except for the hood hinge. Even then the ones with them should have the hole punched for the hood screw. Maybe not tapped but there so all you would have to do is bob off the hinge rod. The one leaning on my leg I'm sure was from a 753. Or was the '61s & '62s the only ones with the batt tray welded on?

I did a crude heat test, took one of the old wires and a section of new wire, ran the onan at 3600 for 5 minutes then held them against the header, after 2 minutes both were pretty badly damaged, i don't think either would have made it to 3 minutes without the core being compromised. I held both wires about ¾ inch off the pipe for 10 minutes using a wire, the silicone jacketed wire was compromised in that the outer layer was cracking off, the cotton wrapped wire had discoloration of the lacquer coating and just started to bubble but no nothing that would cause immediate problems. Long and short, don't let plug wires sit on the exhaust manifold and keep it an inch or so away. My car has 1-⅞ stainless longtube headers, high dollar hear resistant wires and fiberglass boot sleeves, one wire got twisted towards a pipe and it burned through the fiberglass sleeve and wire...🫠

I was thinking of welding it up before I saw how bad it was! It's going in the trash.

I think this could work on most any wheelhorse, the plow mount is universal, i think the 2 bolts on top are pretty standard 3/8 on a 2.25" center, now, the rear tank models and like..C series with the folding fender, not sure. But a linear actuator could be used to rotate the lift arm...and the manual lever chopped off.

I think i might redo my 702 with that primary wiring, its not much wire

I agree 100% on the manfacturer supporting their product which is why I mentioned Ridgid. In 2011 I purchased one of their 18v drills. The kit had two batteries and I purchased one more. I registered everything for the warranty. About a year ago, after 11 years of hard use, the switch was getting funky. I thought about just buying a switch but I decided to send them an email about it. I also mentioned that the batteries were starting to run down quicker than they used to. They replied back stating that they had three new batteries on their way and to take the drill back to Home Depot. The batteries arrived in a couple days and when I took the drill to HD I handed it to the customer service gal along with the email from Ridgid. I ended walking out of there with a complete kit, drill, another battery, charger and case.

That thing was a grenade just waiting to go off. Ouch if it ever did. Somewhere along the line it must've been getting overheated from slipping of the clutch or belt or both at the same time

The 2 stage is a keeper, for sure.

Thank you sir. That is what I was shooting for. I won't use it for very heavy loads, but at least it's at a better height with these small wheels.

This one gave me a "moment". I bought it knowing the tunnel in front of the seat was broken. I brought it into the shop after I unloaded it to see how well it ran. The sequence of events are as follows... 1. Open hood & hook up battery charger. 2. Remove air cleaner & spray some gas into the carb to prime it. 3. Get on tractor, lift parking brake lever to "disengage" transmission. 4. Set choke to 1/2, set throttle to 1/4. 5. Put foot on brake to engage safety switch & turn key to start. 6. Fires up instantly & takes off full speed forward towards the back of the C-160 in front of it. 7. Panic & turn off key. 8. Dismount tractor, unhook battery charger & pick up off floor. 9. Drop trousers & check for recent unexpected "developments".

I can see why the Pond folks abandoned that design and went to the flip-UP forward seat....

It's your machine to do with as you wish, so take this with a grain of salt... If you're going for accuracy that the WH police can't gripe about, then almond is closer to correct for anything prior to the early 70s, with a lighter "linen" color used afterwards- particularly after 73. I don't have any C-series machines, so it's pretty much all I use on the older tractors. The pic below is Rust-Oleum Almond. My Bronco is close to the same tractor as a C-series, so the last pic is for reference.

More work this evening. Took the voltage regulator off took the cover off, cleaned the contacts inside and out. Got the steering wheel off to work on the gas tank. What a good feeling when that comes off!!

Will do. Very limited on space up front. For now this fits under the hood and has run many times just fine. We will see I guess ...

It’s beginning to look like a runner!