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Not only i wasn’t happy with the look of it, more importantly it was frustrating the fact that it got loose often and anvil would move. After thinking about it for a bit came up with a fool proof way of fastening it. It fits precisely onto base of anvil all around, looks better and it’s easily removable if needed. Old way New way Wood holder fits precisely all around anvil base

Antique Tractors Represent Neglected History Many early tractor brand names have disappeared over the years while others have become household names that are known worldwide. Whether you are a farmer who is well-acquainted with the inner workings of the tractor, a novice who just likes tractors big or small, or someone who has an interest in antique mechanics and engineering, you can enjoy the uniquely competitive and progressively adaptive history of the tractor market and the products that it released. Wikipedia lists a thousand or more brands of tractors and farm implement manufacturers that have come and gone over the past century and a half. Of course, the story of the early tractor industry does not end with Great Depression though it did mark the demise of many brands. World War Two upended the nature of the market itself so entirely that this section of the timeline is particularly special. Many brands merged while others departed the tractor and implement scene and began the manufacture of industrial products to support the war effort. You can rest assured that I will be unable to do justice to the entire list furnished by Wikipedia but I will select those that have reliable information sources and share some rather unique agricultural history during the coming weeks. I will begin by providing what little information I could find concerning a rather extraordinary purpose-built tractor that met a specific need in a particular place. Very little information is available on the “Sidehill Tractor” but it could be operated with the rear wheels offset to allow the operator and engine to remain practically level while working on steep terrain. The wheels could be raised or lowered on either side or run level. E. G. Adams of Dallis Oregon built the “Sidehill Tractor” to fill a need in his area of the country. Many fertile fields along the Columbia River are very steeply sloped and this unique tractor found its rightful place in history by making it safer to operate a tractor in this challenging environment.

Was on the FB market place and seen this articulated FEL home made loader. This outfit is new to me and the idea was interesting. I like the all wheel drive. I see the plans are available for $199 Suppose somewhere in the back forty of my mind I wanted to do an articulated machine. Just not ready but this is an option to keep in mind. http://original.cadplans.com/cadtrac.htm This is a copy of the add.

Once again the holiday's are behind us & my favorite time of year has come. Tractor building time !!!! Normally I'm posting my tractor build in the "Restoration, Modification & Custom" section but this years build is more fitting in this section. Last year during a local pull @WHX?? says "We need to build a puller". I kicked the idea around a bit and had pretty much decide NO due to the price of the rear wheels needed to be competitive. Then.... A friend of mine offered to let me borrow a set of rear wheels for one season if I was serious about building a puller. Well heck !! I guess I'll have a go at building a puller. Blahhh, Blahhh, Blahhh. I know you guys what to see some pictures. Took a wander out back to see what I had laying around ... and ... Welcome to ground zero. Not much to start with, but it's a start. A trip to Jim's storage shed help set me up with a 6 speed tranny & a bunch of other parts needed to cobble something together. Then a trip through my parts shed set me up with a few more things. First step - I wanted the front axle of the tractor to be narrower and hopefully a bit lower. First I tried a 633 front axle but was not exactly happy with it. Next I tried a Lawn Ranger front axle, this I liked but the spindle were too short for the 6" rims that I'm using. Grab some spindles out of another axle and life is good. I think this set up will look great. About 3 to 4" narrower and a bit lower. I do not want to run the rear fuel tank that the C-101 comes with because I wish for the rear tires to be as close together as possible plus I don't have the C-101 rear sheet metal parts any way. Removed the dash tower and replaced it with one from a 1257. Best news came when I closed the hood and it fell right in place with the ability to latch it. The running boards from the C-101 would not work at but I had a set from a Raider 12 that I figured would work. As you can see in the pics above the left board fit perfectly but the right side had some issues fitting with the brake peddle. BTW the brake peddle will be staying but will be used as a gas peddle instead. The tractor will require a dead man's throttle so the brake peddle will be modified for this purpose. A closer look at the running board fitment issue. After a bit of trimming the board lays where it should. Test fit the rear wheels to see if I would have any clearance issues. First issue, the center hole in the rim is not large enough to fit on the stock hubs. Compensation - 5/16" thick spacers to move the rim out a bit. On this note, I don't like the fact that the rim does not fit over the raised portion on the outside of the hub. One more thing that I don't like is that the bolt holes in the rims are 1/2", not 7/16". Worse yet the rim holes are not set up with tapered holes to use regular lug bolts or nuts. Thinking of turning the step down on the face of the hub to fit the hole in the aluminum rims and also tapping the holes out in the hub to 1/2"-20. With the wheels on, I see that I have some tight clearances that I will have to address. I have plenty of clearance on the inside for the tires, in fact they could even be a bit closer together if I wish. The last thing that I looked at today was a belt guard. I think that I can make the C-101 guard work with a little trimming. Will need to get the engine installed before I know for sure. I have some minor fitment issues to work through yet as well as more adventures I'm sure. Feel free to stop by & check out my progress and to see what I can build with "Poor Decisions and No Money".

Today I fixed the cracked transmission frame plate on my 416-H. I run a 60” deck and a Peco vacuum system on this tractor, and when the bins are full of grass they are HEAVY. So every year when I service and put it away for the winter I check that plate, I know this is the weak link and many have had it crack. Well, it finally happened. I ground out the cracks, welded them shut. Next I replaced the broken 3/4”x1/8” flat stock that was used as a big washer with a piece of 1-1/8x1/8” and added a piece of 3/4”x1/8” as a gusset. While I had it on the lift I replaced the fender pan with a NOS one I picked up at the show this past year. Next I have to fix the throttle cable that keeps creeping down. Tomorrow I will get some nylon washers, drill out the rivet and replace with a nut and bolt.

This is true with any motor sport and why I've decide to go with the "stock" class. I been already reading through the 4 pages of rules looking for loop holes, which there are plenty of.

I don't think these machines ever used clear coating. I'd be willing to bet that some 2000 grit wet sanding and polishing afterward would go a long way to bringing that hood back. Mine started out looking pretty bad, and I was shocked how well a harbor fright cheapo buffer and compound worked after wet sanding. Worth a try at least. My tractor is a worker, and I was shocked at how nice it looked afterwards.

Sorry about your friend. Cancer is so damn cruel. He made the right choice making you the keeper of the tractor.

My wife thinks cribbage is a full contact sport. If I get too many good hands in a row she gives me a slap on the shoulder.

That crack needs welding then add bracing to keep it from happened again. I use 1 1/2" x 1/4: steel then grind it on the back side to fit between thoes raised places on the transmission plate. Then I weld the braces into the bottom 1 1/2" x 1/4" bar,

Speaking of that boring and engine work and performance stuff. there’s a lot of stuff you can do on the outside before getting into the engine doing cams,piston,crank that’s the expensive stuff. I would go onto Vogel Manufacturing and they have very good stock appearing carbs that make a huge difference, The other sites I use to get parts is Midwest Super Cub, Hackman Performance Parts and Zack Kerber. They all have very useful parts. I would also recommend making a front weight bar that goes into the attach o matics. They make a huge difference with getting your front end down and easier for another spot to add weight.

Come on uncle Jim......that is where he is hiding the nitrous bottle.

I've never made that mistake... Well, not this week anyway.

Just to follow ... When I broached this idea it was just to be a POS that we already had and just for fun as a few of the pulling events we have. Well Dan in his analness has just gotta kick it up a notch and go whole hog and build something. Well I for one will not stand in the way of his creativity but Dan? You ain't gonna paint this frigging thing are you? There goes your 500 budget right out the window! NO I says ... no paint... a rat puller...he knows how like orginal. Bastage already knows my distain... ( always wanted to use that word) for drilling holes in ancient sheet metal. What with a kill switch on the fuel pump, the ignition, the hitch and up yer bung hole? Oh well ... I guess I'll just be pit crew... 😁

It’s an old match case or container.

Hello again, sorry that I did not respons earlier. We decided to restore the original ST-374 Snow Thrower. We used a chemical dipping bath to remove rust and paint, then all parts received two coats of epoxy then two coats of red enamel. We renewed all bearings and made a Lifting flag and rod. It was mentioned how people in Norway have been using ingeniuity to cope when it was hard to get spare parts. The snow thrower had at one time had its small wheels replaced by aluminium skis (of course, we are Norwegians after all!), we tried to fit those but the skies only made the thrower try to climb on top of the snow, so we found some small wheels instead. The thrower is working wery well, with the correct speed it will throw the snow really well. We now need to find some snow chains for the rear wheels.

HVAC and water maintenance. I have hard water that likes to eat copper and brass. My Mike had a slow day today, so we replaced all the copper with SST and plastic. All new oil filters, nozzle, valves, and cleaned the chimney and boiler. Also installed new lamp and filter and recharged the well tank. I sure am grateful to have a son with a HVAC business. I'll sleep well knowing he is here to maintain things when I take my dirt nap.

Dan, once you get started you know the wallet will get stretched as the rules and all of those loopholes make the rulebook very elastic. I'm along for the ride.

I suspect a lot of our wives would say that about most of us. I don’t have to touch things, grease just jumps onto me.

Uhm... been there done that... once, maybe twice...

Just throwing out some long shots. Do you feel a good puff of exhaust air coming out of the muffler when you crank it. A restriction in the muffler such as carbon or collapsed internal can cause a back pressure. An engine has to “ breathe” out for it to have room to suck fresh gas carrying air in. Do you have an inline spark tester? They help verify you don’t have an intermittent spark such as from a coil that grounds out internally from engine vibration. (If not, someone will be along with a recommendation for a good one as I have a cheap one I need to replace). To help narrow down if it is a fuel problem, have an assistant ready to give it small burst of sprayed fuel in the intake (air cleaner off) to see it that will keep it running. You can use spray can carb cleaner or gas in a squirt bottle in place of the starting fluid.

Didn’t even make it 24hrs into 2024 and I already grabbed my first tractor. 867. trying to decide what route I want to take with this machine. The engine is supposedly rebuild which makes me want to put it onto my 854 restoration project but I’m not sure yet..

She was mine that dress would come off... ain't nothing like a beauty queen in her work clothes... just sayin...

Hi all. She who must be obeyed has decreed that we are to play cribbage together to spend some quality time.... So. What the heck is it all about? I've tried tutorials and such but I cant seem to grasp the idea about ditching two cards in the crib, especially when it makes a difference it its my crib or the opponents. Also, what is your favourite type of score board, peg board. I'd like to make one myself ideally. I did knock up a 21 point board for a game we call Brag, but its not big enough for crib.

This weekend I picked up a 1986 312-8 with a single stage snowblower and box of new parts, from the original owners son, who has had it in his garage for 20 years. I paid $200. I also got a second trashed SS snowblower for parts. The son never used the machine. His father mowed 4 acres plus his neighbors yard. It has almost 3,000 hours on it. When the deck broke the father bought a snowblower and used it for only that purpose. It also came with the parts and service manual and the original brochure as well as a new set of tire rods and a chain guard. i’m not sure what I’m going to do with it but for $200 I figured I’d just grab it and figure it out later.

Ok Wheelhorse Wizards! I found this in my shop this afternoon. I figure some of you will know immediately what it's purpose is but I had to google it. It shows wear from being carried. The clues found in the third picture solved the puzzle for me. Happy New Tax Year!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EasyLiner-Select-Grip-Shelf-Liner-Taupe-20-in-x-6-ft-Roll/16456559?w picked up some some new shelf covers , was trimming a few , and thought of my long worn out , bottle cap rubber gripper , thought why not ? cut a couple of 6 x 6 pieces , makes a perfect bottle cap remover . those sauce bottles don't have a chance , no slippage , just grip , just an idea , Pete

I agree with @formariz…

My wife taught me how to play while I was in the Navy as well. She’s originally from Michigan. I played spades growing up down south. She played euchre and cribbage. She got tired of losing at my game. So we started playing her games. I mastered her games in short time and now we don’t play much anymore. 😂 have to learn how to lose I guess. That’s a lot tougher than winning.

$ 2.89 @WHX?? Nice paint job on that Kohler

Starting to look like a 301. High lighting the timing mark really works good for static timing. Carb is really nasty and not looking forward to saving it. Bushing is real good tho so gotta try. Wonder how old this can of silver is?!?! $2.89?!?! Used it on the flywheel ok.

I think it's reasonable to say that most decks one finds should be de-painted and done over by now. If your current one is solid, can be repainted and you aren't looking for aesthetic perfection I'd use it. Not scrap it.

I had planned on doing just that, I have been sanding away and checking the integrity of the deck ever since my last post. I agree it is odd how the pulleys just rotted away, leaving the deck pretty much intact, the belt was actually rusted stuck to the pulleys in such a manner that it was very difficult to get it unstuck. I may just end up scrapping this deck depending on how much pulleys and belt cost. I’m looking at a 48” deck now, I think it can get it reasonable.

You also should consider this. Never let your wife win. She will not respect that. It is better to explain what you did to win and let her chew on it. I know...good luck with that. I play Chess...I have always improved my game by loosing and learning from my mistakes. Winning has always been an oppertunity to teach someone to be a better opponent.

Do take the effort to sand or bead blast ALL the paint and rust off. The result of doing so will not lie - If the total count of all holes in the shell exceeds 2X what Elmer and Cecil had in the original part - best to find another shell......

I don't think I've ever seen one rusted that bad, think you would be better off looking for a used one. Probably cheaper in the long run.

While in the Navy, we would play tons of Cribbage. Once you get the hang of it, you can make the game really interesting by dealing 12 cards to each of two players and burying 4...or 15 cards and burying 5...or 18 cards and burying 6. Cribbage boards are also very collectable. I find ones made from Diamond Willow especially cool. https://www.google.com/search?q=rare+cribbage+boards&sca_esv=595122014&hl=en&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AM9HkKnQo-6oE4uGg8dGm7qetNznpslZCg%3A1704216729671&source=hp&biw=1172&bih=525&ei=mUiUZbfcJu2U0PEPpoG12AU&iflsig=AO6bgOgAAAAAZZRWqWjvr2FWjtQQFfFZJH3BmCGXg2AO&oq=Cribbage+boards&gs_lp=EgNpbWciD0NyaWJiYWdlIGJvYXJkcyoCCAYyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBhAAGAUYHjIGEAAYBRgeMgYQABgFGB4yBhAAGAUYHjIGEAAYBRgeMgYQABgFGB4yBhAAGAUYHkjimgFQAFikQHAAeACQAQCYAUqgAa8HqgECMTW4AQHIAQD4AQGKAgtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZ8ICCBAAGIAEGLEDwgIOEAAYgAQYigUYsQMYgwHCAgsQABiABBixAxiDAQ&sclient=img diamond willow... https://www.google.com/search?q=diamond+willow+cribbage+boards&tbm=isch&hl=en&chips=q:diamond+willow+cribbage+boards,online_chips:willow+wood:xA6M5sW4JFU%3D&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiniqaHoL-DAxWf2MkDHXeIDTUQ4lYoBnoECAEQQA&biw=1157&bih=525

When discarding - I call cards 5,6,7,8,& 9 crib builders. (they are easy to make points) I try not to discard these cards to my opponents crib but will gladly put them in my crib. Some times you can't help but throw them in your opponents crib in order to keep a better hand though. After you have played long enough you will get to learn how your opponent plays. I pretty much know what some people have in their hand by the time they lay their second card down.

Prolly pull for fun at Plainfield like last year. Big money pull at Pickett fer sure. Be lucky you get your entry fee back place 1st...

Today I started on a 1958 Rj build . This one will be a little different than patina or red paint . I always wanted to do something unique as a show cruiser . The water in the transmission was no extra charge ! IMG_1833.mov

Will be a 14hp that is massaged to the furthest limit that the rules or my wallet will allow. Which ever comes first.

What goes on at them pullin' shows anywho?

You will need a bigger trap. You can trap a Waldo with a sandwich out of a vending machine

I started down the puller path several years ago. I had a good friend that was in the winners circle a lot. Of course I consulted with him about the hobby. He told me it was all up to what you want. Somewhat confused my reply was what do you mean? He said it is a lot of fun and a good time if just like pulling and building a machine. Costly tho. And then he said now if you want to win, that is a complete different thing. More confusion. He said well let me put it to you like this, winners are the the best cheaters having the most money. How about you? You can do the math. (he was a die hard cub guy) After running down the time and cost of the whole thing I just dropped it from my bucket list.

One applies it to a cloth and wipes it wet on vise. Leave it on for about 15 minutes and wipe it dry. Believe it or not metal absorbs a slight amount. That is the desired effect. Areas where you hand is all the time such as handle need not be done in this manner since the use there is always cleaning metal. Within a month or so of the above method nothing really transfers to one’s hands. On a side note, if I was not to have oily hands, clothes, along with dust and shavings and of course the ocasional black grease from walking too close to a tractor wheel, my wife would probably not recognize me.

So the other day I put oil in the new engine and made sure the battery was charged so I could crank it over. No fuel, just a cold crank to be sure all was ready. Turned the key and just a click, nothing more, darn it. Well time to let my mind ponder what is wrong. Been a couple of days now and finally was able to take a look after looking at the install instructions. Everything looked right, what was I missing. Well dumb a$$ me realized I was not sitting in the seat and engaging the clutch. Kill switches. Climbed aboard, turned the key and engine crank without complaint. I'm a happier man this evening.

Me and my dad @TonyToro ripped apart the engine in one of my pulling tractors “lunch money” it’s a Raider 14 with a Kohler K-series 14hp. We figured out that it has a good piston connecting rod and crank that is not stock and are all parts from Midwest Super Cub. So now all I have to get is a new aftermarket cam, and new valves then I should be ready for the next pulling season.