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I plan to continue posting tractor trivia as long as I can come up with interestin stuff. All the information comes from the internet so you know it must be true, no one would post false or inaccurate info on the internet, would they? Some of it will be short tidbits, some of it will be humorous, some of it may be a bit sacrilegious (read that as GREEN TRACTOR) and on occasion there may be a shot essay about an obscure subject I felt compelled to share. When I have had personal experience with a piece of equipment, I may share that too. Please PM me any suggestions you have or just add them to any thread I post. The word tractor is from Latin, trahere meaning “to pull.” The first recorded use of the word “tractor” was George H. Edwards' 1890 patent request for “a tractor to be propelled by steam-engine.” Previously this type of device was referred to as a Traction Engine. A review of the Edwards machine in the March 1897 issue of The Horseless Age magazine tells us, “The object of the invention is to utilize steam power in plowing, seeding, harvesting, ditching, threshing, hauling, railroad construction, bridge building and to perform such operations on such a large scale that they will be exceedingly economical.” The article further states that, “The first tractor built on the folding truss plan weighed fourteen tons, and although a very crude affair, is said to have demonstrated in the field the basic principles used for distributing weight. The second machine weighed twenty-four tons and proved itself capable of running over very soft ground and of pulling heavily.” The farm tractor is one of the most important and easily recognizable technological components of modern agriculture. Its development in the first half of the twentieth century fundamentally changed the nature of farm work, significantly altered the structure of rural America, and freed up millions of workers to be absorbed into the rapidly growing manufacturing and service sectors.

I just picked this up a few days ago. 1996 312-8. 1 owner, 599 hours. Garaged for its entire life. I was providing an estimate for landscape services and noticed this in the Gentlemens garage. It was covered with 3 sheets, only the blower was exposed. After the estimate and an hour of chatting with both Mr and Mrs, I inquired about what was under the sheets. They brought me inside the garage and he peeled back the layers. WOW. Pristine 312-8. Kohler M12. He brought out all manuals, to all his attachments and showed me the records/ maintenance that was done, all documented on the inside of the manuals. Stunning condition. I wasn't in the market for a tractor. I have a Bolens 1556 (safe to say here?) lol. . The rings let go a few months ago, oh160 Techy. It's been sitting. Anyway, I asked if he was thinking of selling. He said he was considering due to health issues. I asked him to keep me informed on his decision. I showed up a week later to sign the contract for Landscape services, and the garage was open. After getting signatures, he asked me if I was interested in the tractor still. We went over the machine outside, and we came to agreement on a selling price. Here she is! I have the original receipt of purchase, with all attachments. $5300.00 1996.

Once again the holiday's are behind us & my favorite time of year has come. Tractor building time !!!! Normally I'm posting my tractor build in the "Restoration, Modification & Custom" section but this years build is more fitting in this section. Last year during a local pull @WHX?? says "We need to build a puller". I kicked the idea around a bit and had pretty much decide NO due to the price of the rear wheels needed to be competitive. Then.... A friend of mine offered to let me borrow a set of rear wheels for one season if I was serious about building a puller. Well heck !! I guess I'll have a go at building a puller. Blahhh, Blahhh, Blahhh. I know you guys what to see some pictures. Took a wander out back to see what I had laying around ... and ... Welcome to ground zero. Not much to start with, but it's a start. A trip to Jim's storage shed help set me up with a 6 speed tranny & a bunch of other parts needed to cobble something together. Then a trip through my parts shed set me up with a few more things. First step - I wanted the front axle of the tractor to be narrower and hopefully a bit lower. First I tried a 633 front axle but was not exactly happy with it. Next I tried a Lawn Ranger front axle, this I liked but the spindle were too short for the 6" rims that I'm using. Grab some spindles out of another axle and life is good. I think this set up will look great. About 3 to 4" narrower and a bit lower. I do not want to run the rear fuel tank that the C-101 comes with because I wish for the rear tires to be as close together as possible plus I don't have the C-101 rear sheet metal parts any way. Removed the dash tower and replaced it with one from a 1257. Best news came when I closed the hood and it fell right in place with the ability to latch it. The running boards from the C-101 would not work at but I had a set from a Raider 12 that I figured would work. As you can see in the pics above the left board fit perfectly but the right side had some issues fitting with the brake peddle. BTW the brake peddle will be staying but will be used as a gas peddle instead. The tractor will require a dead man's throttle so the brake peddle will be modified for this purpose. A closer look at the running board fitment issue. After a bit of trimming the board lays where it should. Test fit the rear wheels to see if I would have any clearance issues. First issue, the center hole in the rim is not large enough to fit on the stock hubs. Compensation - 5/16" thick spacers to move the rim out a bit. On this note, I don't like the fact that the rim does not fit over the raised portion on the outside of the hub. One more thing that I don't like is that the bolt holes in the rims are 1/2", not 7/16". Worse yet the rim holes are not set up with tapered holes to use regular lug bolts or nuts. Thinking of turning the step down on the face of the hub to fit the hole in the aluminum rims and also tapping the holes out in the hub to 1/2"-20. With the wheels on, I see that I have some tight clearances that I will have to address. I have plenty of clearance on the inside for the tires, in fact they could even be a bit closer together if I wish. The last thing that I looked at today was a belt guard. I think that I can make the C-101 guard work with a little trimming. Will need to get the engine installed before I know for sure. I have some minor fitment issues to work through yet as well as more adventures I'm sure. Feel free to stop by & check out my progress and to see what I can build with "Poor Decisions and No Money".

This weekend I picked up a 1986 312-8 with a single stage snowblower and box of new parts, from the original owners son, who has had it in his garage for 20 years. I paid $200. I also got a second trashed SS snowblower for parts. The son never used the machine. His father mowed 4 acres plus his neighbors yard. It has almost 3,000 hours on it. When the deck broke the father bought a snowblower and used it for only that purpose. It also came with the parts and service manual and the original brochure as well as a new set of tire rods and a chain guard. i’m not sure what I’m going to do with it but for $200 I figured I’d just grab it and figure it out later.

I want to wish all Members and Supporters on Redsquare and very Happy and Prosperous New Year 2024 !

Happy New Year, from the @Pullstart gang and Lieutenant Dan! We started Forrest Gump at 10:38 for this

A Happy New Year to the whole Wheelhorse Family. may 2024 be better than last 3 years.

Happy New year folks!

I'd say that is a Squonk hole.

As expected my suggestion will lean towards a hand tool. In 1988 I needed to duplicate a small crown not readily available then. All I needed was about six feet of it. A chunk of scrap red oak and this is what I came up with. It has by now probably made a dozen miles worth of it. No noise, no mess, no danger to fingers and a pleasure to use. Different fences on it allow for another couple of different moldings.

If they are squonk holes him likes BBQ (Carolina Style) . Check for small squonks in holes , they hatch real quick .

Thanks!! The spacer was just a stroke of luck. I knew I needed a spacer 4 or more inches thick to make room for the 30" rear tires. 30 - 23 (stock) = 7" diameter increase. Cut that in half for the one side of the tire to clear the steps. 3.5" additional space from frame to transmission. I figured minimum 4" with more being better. I really wanted it to be the full width and height of the WH frame. Just shy of 7".... so we were gonna have to make it. Our friend who's a truck fabricator was watching for a chunk and found a piece of 7" square tubing. I'd never heard of that size! Well, they capped one end and put the cap you see with the hole in it so I could get the bolts in. I was gonna mount that side facing down but someone here suggested it would be a great glove or other stuff holdererer. Excellent idea!!

Hood latches ready for assembly Hood latches assembled Just working on little things while hood and fender are at the painters.

We have that problem and usually it is skunks.

Same here except it will be peek-in pie. Hey that's how my grandma said it and I will never change.

You give me too much credit.

Ah not so hard - or in other words... If eric would make it 201 posts in the Forum ...

Happy New Year Everyone!!!!!

Father bought my L107 new in 1967 he was way too frugal for electric start. As he got older it got harder for him to yank the rope (No ACR) so we put in an HH70 with ACR but still pull start. After I inherited the tractor I wanted electric start. Since the HH70 had a ring gear I bought a used Techy starter for $15 out it on wired a cheap solenoid and momentary switch. Been using it for 20 years now. no charging systerm but the battery will start her for 3+ months and I use her a lot. Then put it on a charger See if you can pickup the Flywheel for a H60 or HH60 that had electric start. You need the ring gear.

There was an optional hose that was available with old farm tractors. Take out one spark plug thread the hose in Start her up and run on 3 cylinders inflate the tires with output of #4. Always wondered about the advisability of filling a 13.6X38 rear tire with and explosive mixture of air and gas... But hey this was pre OHSA

Happy New Year!

Thanks for the welcome. Happy New Year from CT!

I'd just put quick connect cord on the battery and keep unit in the garage / shed...

I have this old Onan Gen Set that I have been trying to get running for some time. I have given up on the Onan and decided to use a WH PTO to power the gen thru the Onan crankshaft. Here's where I'm at. I removed some tins, fan, spark plug, coil, and air cleaner. Mounted an old wallowed out DD double pulley on the flywheel. She runs an makes power. After hearing the Putt Put from the plug hole and exhaust, I'm thinking with a few check valves, plumbing, and a tank it could also be a pretty good air compressor. Ideas, comments ????????????

The OE adjustable tierods, sprocket and floating bearings alone justify the cost - the rest is a freebie!!!!

Nice save!

Happy New Year every one !!!

Paul at that price you just can't go wrong. Good save!

Thank you for the kind words. Patience is definitely a must but not always automatic . Mood and life many times dictate the amount of patience available therefore certain projects either get pushed back a little or they are spontaneously tackled. To me things such as this always have a therapeutic effect whether in times of stress or even grief.

to That is a beautiful horse you have there. I predict that you are going to love it.

I just trapped two of the stinkers. They luv peanut butter.

Me and my dad @TonyToro ripped apart the engine in one of my pulling tractors “lunch money” it’s a Raider 14 with a Kohler K-series 14hp. We figured out that it has a good piston connecting rod and crank that is not stock and are all parts from Midwest Super Cub. So now all I have to get is a new aftermarket cam, and new valves then I should be ready for the next pulling season.

Now to go enjoy some sauerkraut, mashed taters, roast pork shoulder, and rice pudding.

First would be to get r pumping and see what if any unknowns. Then get fancy. I just wonder taking a pressure relief and plumbing in a valve on the outlet and to very the differential of pressure and make up a cheap version of the unloader. I got to go get a coffee......way to much thinking this early in the year. I like the idea.

An old small engine mechanic once told me that he removed the screws by turning them counter-clockwise 1/8 turn, then turn back clock-wise. Continue this procedure until the screw comes out. The other advice is be sure that the flat blade screwdriver fits the slot in the screw. Personal note: When you finally snap the head off the screw, I have a box of replacements.

Here's my idea John. Close both intake and exhaust valves. Connect spark plug hole to a TEE. One side of tee is check valved to only let air in on the piston down strokes intake and ignition. The other side of the tee is check valved to only allow air into the tank on the piston up strokes compression and exhaust.

We had one of those too. Used it to get a load of hay with a flat tire in from the field then repaired the tube after unloading the wagon. In those days it was a common practice to light the rubber-cement and put the patch on while it was hot. that day I felt it best to just allow the cement to air cure.

That does sound scary. Bout like these guys using explosions to set beads. I will be tapping into the spark plug hole, but no fuel involved.

Last SSS&S for 2023 …. Wife wanted an exercise bike (I assume to hang laundry on ) but the yard was to wet and soft to get to the back of the house with a truck to get the bike into the finished basement area, 414-8 got the job done! Then back into cutting up the trees that dropped in the storm a couple weeks back. 414-8 worked like a CHAMP

A few weeks ago in a thread around here somewhere we we discussing the ways of modifying tire chains. I've been wanting to add links to some of mine for years. Using this as an excuse/reason/justification for getting another new-to-me tool I went poking around the interwebs and found this VERY vintage set of "Weed Sturdy" tire chain pliers. When I got them here to home they were a tad sticky. I decided to drop em in the recently set up E-tank to clean the old paint and rust off. I forgot to get an in process pic but here's some before n after. Turns out after soaking for a few days I found some bright red paint inside the handles where it's unlikely to have ever been damaged by usage. Very close match to Rust-Oleum Apple Red Gloss.

Forget the trail cam...

@Alan Mard , like a specific chain lubricant , made for that , always had some on it , so it was never dry , also resprayed it after use . used to use LUBRIPLATE chain / cable , before it tripled in price , NAPA , has the MAC,S brand of aerosol lubricants , # 1370 chain / cable spray , price about 8.50 $ they also have the # 1366 open gear lube , like that for rustproofing , been experimenting , also get after the idler pully frame just behind blower , its a metal to metal fit , lubricate that , have also put a stiffer spring on that set up , the freer movement , and pull , makes it work better , lubricate the bottom of the blower chute , and related , Chesterton lubricants are good , just the fact that you are , actually doing something to enhance function , stay at it ! 1/2" chain deflection on the blower . thanks @ri702bill and @Wayne0 for the reply's , did a number of functional gains on my blowers , wonder if we will get some use this year ? plows are ready , pete

Peek-n, Pee-can, and Pe-cahn. Not my favorite in pie, but great nuts in a modified Waldorf salad!

My always garaged 312-8 is 35 years old and only now am I replacing the engine. It is a great machine.

After a frustrating year searching for a good deal on a used one, I I caved and bought new on sale. I decided on a MIG/Flux Core unit knowing that flux core would be adequate for what I was doing but (knowing myself) wanting the option to upgrade without having to replace the machine. The marginal extra flexibility of TIG/stick wasn’t important to me. Getting to “ok” with flux didn’t take too long and, as it turned out, after only a few months I found a good deal on a barely used 80cf shielding gas tank so now I’m on a new learning curve. The one caution I always offer to welder buyers is NOT being cheap on protective gear--auto-darkening mask, gloves, etc. Good luck!

Good - with the correct clutch spring installed, you probably should remove the failed gas charged unit entirely and give it the quick toss.... Search for "clutch spring installation" - you do not want to just grab the hook end with serrated jaw pliers - use either drum brake pliers or a bent coat hanger with a small loop on it to prevent nicking the spring...There are lots of useful hands-on experience items on that Check List - stuff Not found in the Owners Manuals......