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Love this tractor... Started life as an OHV Tecumseh... I bought it with a Kohler K341 in it. Just didnt shift right etc... found out the Kohler K was out of a C160 hydro and had the 5" crank pulley. Pulled that motor to put on a C160 hydro with a horrendous balance gear or rod knock. Pulled the magnum out of a beat to hell 416-8 and dropped it on. Also added a 48" 5 quadrant plow, a super heavy duty receiver hitch and winch setup from Russell Wright 100 lbs of weights on each wheel inside and out and 4 new tires---ready to go!! What a work rig!!! 20231230_095030.mp4

As some will know Ive posted pics of the D I bought back in the summer. I been tinkering on it ever since off and on. I completely re wired it with 14 and 12 gauge wire, got a lower dash plate to replace the home made one and painted the lettering, replaced the home made console plate with factory one. New seat, which I need to raise an 1" or so cause it pushes against the gas tank (need all the leg room I can get). Took the rear counter weight basket off and cut it down to stack all the steel I have closer to back of tractor, which Im currently working on the steel to fit and stack and get painted. So for now I just got the front wheels and hubs all painted along with the back wheel weights. I think the black gives it a different look to go with the black loader. Heck I even painted the steering wheel center cap with paint markers. Not too bad for first time. Hopefully I will get alot of the tractor tins painted this summer for a over all better appearance, wont be all taken apart but just to clean it up. Heres a couple before and after pics soon as I can make em load.

Brought a few out in the sun and left them run a while for their year end warm up. 417A 310-8 312H 520H

Started the process of saving these '55 rims. Can already tell... they will be sexy.

I got an inquiry from @Handy Don recently about adding a solenoid to his 854 that does not have one. The idea it to take the high amperage load out of the 3 position keyswitch to improve it's service life. There is precious little room to add one on any short frame tractor - here is what I did about 8 years ago on my 854 8 speed.using a spare solenoid from a C81... I fabricated a metal plate to mount the solenoid so it is stood off the rear of the S/G, and not in the way of access to either the oil dipstick or the oil cup on the rear S/G plate.The wire and cables are short & tidy.

And here you guys thought hanging paper was passing a bad check ... A smooth move for installing bearing plates.

Nice tractor! I also have a 314-H and a 314-8. There’s not much that a 314 can’t do. I have a 520H with a bucket loader that can be a bear to start. The 314’s, never an issue.

Merry XMas to me !!

Took a 90 min ride one way last evening to pickup this '93 classic to use mainly for mowing. I decided on this since My son prefers the hand motion control over our 416h's foot control (oem copy). He, in my opinion, is nuts... 😆 but, to each their own. It's in good shape overall and seller and I talked WH whole time I was there. Good to meet him. (He has like 12 Wheelhorses) I mentioned the Big Show to him and he is interested in attending as I said how its such a great event. No engine noise or smoke, lower hours, fairly clean. (Already dismantling tonight to clean and go over everything!) Will need a new carb or ???... Mostly, It runs great, but i noticed tons of play on the top shaft (Walbro carb) compared to my 314-8 and it changes rpm when moved around. No leaks anywhere else I can see so far. This one seems to need a little tlc, like new bushings for contols etc although they are good, i might as well replace since it's apart. Last pic is progress..

Had to back off on the heating...started some stuff inside the shroud to smoldering Good idea on tightening will reverse the impact driver when the smoke clears....

That's my go-to as well. If the screws are beyond saving you could also weld a nut to the outside of the screw head. The nut allows MUCH better grip and the heat will often help breaking the rust.

And I see addition of the MUCH needed 15 amp fuse - 854's had none. Here's what I did... Used a weather resistant flat blade fuse holder with cap. Added a welded strap to the non-original 702 style hoodstand brace.

My answer on a 1067 long fram tho. Was then able to use a off the rack five term switch.

It was cheap in the jungle. Works just ok. There is a clutch of sorts in it that likes to slip. It came with a bunch of suction cups but mostly for very large valves. Getting the cup to stick to the valve is problematic. I got it mainly to do a poor man's seat re-facer. This works too a guy just needs to shorten the hand lapper. A short wood dowel.

Full disclosure... What I discovered... Saving these things isn't even going to be a challenge.

@Pullstart have another idea on this project of yours. haul @Tractorhead back to your place from the BS. He can have the project 75 percent complete before he needs to catch his plane home.

A little squirt of pb blaster and a slight tap with a small hammer solved the problem. It came off with the first tap. Must of just been a little rusted. Thank you all! As usual the group solved my problem.

I was hesitant to put a solenoid on my 854 only because I liked the sound of it cranking without the click. I even replaced the original tired switch with a new one. But I finally gave in knowing it's a better setup. Well, it turned out that the cranking sound didn't change a bit.

Try lightly sanding the dipstick so that oil doesn't glide off. I have seen dipsticks act like they were waxed and oil wouldn't stick evenly.

The simplest, most impactful thing I’ve done to my tractors is adding a $10 marine grade fuel primer bulb. Highly recommended.

Typical setup for a sickle bar mower guys. Not modified, just rebuilt using components from Surplus Center. The entire mower was a frozen pile of rust when I got it. The attach-a-matic has to be replaced with the sickle drive setup.

Much easier to center the drill bit in a phillips head than a broken off 1/4-20. Drill them out to 1/8" and then 3/16" then chase the threads.

Beautiful place you have

Follow up on the November 4th post. Ended up with the Can-Am side x side. Trailered it back to the dealer last week to have the power angle plow installed. Plow is also Can -Am branded and by reviewing the paperwork the 72'' plow is a Bercomac brand.

Or electric pump. A check valve will help a weak pump, but it's just a Band-Aid on a pump going out.

Fourtheded...

Jeffrey loves them. All I have to say is " where's the truck?" and he goes right to it. When it flips over you tell him " help it" and he flips it upright with his nose. He barks at it and chases it, pokes it with his nose but never harms it. Hours of fun !!! 20231230_184756.mp4

Any tractor with the fuel tank under the seat should have one. Your battery and starter will thank you.

Thirded...

Oh did I mention it is a Traxxas TRX4m RC car? If any one is into rc's I highly recommend these little trucks I bought a Land Rover Defender when they first came out. Hours of fun I have with these. My dog loves chasing them around the house and yard.

I had a "stubborn to remove" mule drive on one of my tractors. Upon closer examination I discovered it had been run into something in the past and something had been slightly bent (can't remember exactly what part). Spent a few minutes straightening with a pry bar and the mule drive came off as it should.

@Cee245 nice pick up on that ! love the opportunity to detail in everything , improve it , enhance function , there is a number of steering improvements , on this forum , dealing with just this . like a polyurea rated grease , that will stay with the area , too many suggestions , for me to list , good luck with it , Pete

@Cee245 my bad, the hood on the 314H is not original. I actually drove from MA to NY to buy that hood from @Brockport Bill because the original hood was rough. It’s also the Baja badged machine, so I need to pick up that decal.

Hi @Cee245 the decals on both 314’s are original. As far as steering comparison, The 520 with the gear reduction steers like it has power steering. Much nicer than than the 314s. My goal is to put gear reduction steering on all of my tractors. I had my bucket loader on a C1 21 without the gear reduction steering and it was pretty difficult to handle at times. That’s why I swapped it the bucket loader from the 121 to the 520. The only reason I have a 520 is for the gear reduction steering for the bucket loader, otherwise I would have no need for the 520.

The amazing difference between bumper pulling a 37’ camper and 5th wheel towing a 40’ camper is night and day. Cut my dang 2” hitch off for all I care! (Please don’t, I still haul other trailers too ). I sure can imagine moving it further forward would create even more stability. To explain my yeah, no or was it (no, yeah?) comment to Dan, Once again I want to stress the importance (to myself) of having a hitch centered over the axle like it’s intended. I know plenty of people who haul 5th wheel and gooseneck with a regular cab long box, or an extended cab short box (as this donor frame is). Having a shorter than Norman frame to start with will change many aspects of what I am used to on the road, but will remain safe as manufactured so not having any frame modifications. As far as the camper will know, it’s being pulled by a stock Chevy truck. Locating the hitch further back may change the dynamics of things enough that makes it not road worthy. Less work your way? Absolutely. Better in the long haul? Maybe not.

Drive it around and exercise the lift a few times then let the tractor sit for a few minutes and check the dipstick.

@WHX?? I’m interested in the valve lapping attachment you have in you drill. I’ve never seen one like that. Looks like it sure would beat a hand lapped.

Thanks @PWL216. Yours Look really nice!! And I agree. My 314-8 handles 48" deck without issue and uses less gas than my Onan 416H. I've read it'll handle a 2 stage snowblower as well... I prefer the Hydro for mowing around my many obstacles in the yard. How do you compare the steering between the 314 and the 520? I have a nice gear reduction from a 520 that I'm putting on the 314. There is NO drilling required for this. Guessing because its a 93 and gear reduction was available (same frames) Fits nice except I see the steering shaft is about 2" too tall. Any reason I couldn't cut it 2" shorter amd drill another hole for the steering wheel roll pin? Wondering if I'd need a special drill bit? Or if my carbide or titanium nitride bits would work?

Easy Peasy--- Just read the few lines under fig # 5 in the upper left corner of this instruction page. (1) Push the Lock Pin Release button and (2) pull the LATCH LEVER forward. Mule drive will drop out of the hitch.

Assuming it's the front mount mule drive , push the button and flip the latch / lever . Should fall right off.

I used a fine file and the engine to machine mine to get full contact.

TLABR - That Looks ABout Right

Pfrederi- you are a lifesaver!!! My 17 has been apart for so long that my thrust bearing and washer made it onto the wrong end of the crankshaft. I would have eventually found out but it would have been too late. I am so glad that I swallowed my pride and came to the forum seeking more info. I owe you one!!! Happy Wheeling in 2024- Joe

KEVIN! You could have used a Wheel Horse to pull the Pontiac into the garage and helped spread the word about how good they are. But, on the bright side you did manage to get it into the garage without running over yourself or even sustaining an injury so you are improving. Also; finish the bathroom.

I did go to a 1" dia. smaller pulley on a single stage to increase the speed as the singles depend on the auger to push the snow up the chute. And it made it easier to change the belt. I don't understand why you would need more RPMs on the dual stage snow pump. I run my dual stage on the inside PTO pulley because the inside pulley lines up better to the blower pulley.

Thanks for the quick replies. All very good. I'll keep looking to see what others come up with. My idea is to take my 150mm hole saw (should fit inside of the 6" opening) and wrap it with self-adhesive 80-100 grit emory paper, slowly grinding and adding layers until I reach 6.25". Sometimes these ideas sound good in my head, but in practice not so much.

I recently did just that (except to 6.5") with a jig saw. I swapped the electric start goodies on a 181 over to a yank start 161. I had the shroud firmly fastened to the work bench but you might find it easier clamping the saw like John said. You can't see it in this picture but you couldn't tell it was cut. High speed on the blade but slow and easy as you cut.