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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/22/2023 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Happy to have such a big family, kids and nieces and nephews! Two twin boys were welcomed into the family last weekend, Leighton is a big sister yet again! Tomorrow we are volunteering at the local homeless shelter, serving food all day. Happy Thanksgiving to all my tractor buddies!
  2. 8 points
  3. 8 points
    I finally had an appointment with a Neurologist yesterday. I had hoped he may have a treatment plan that would take away the numbness on my left side but no such luck. He confirmed what I already knew was ailing me but didn't have any magic up his sleeve. PT has been going well and and I am doing a lot more "normal" activities which lightens the load for my wife. She has been great throughout my recovery and now that I'm able to do more she can have cataract surgery that has been put off for several months. I appreciate the support and prayers from all of you.
  4. 6 points
    I may have forgotten to update...
  5. 6 points
    Filled tires, wheel weights, rear weights, and me in the seat = near a 1000 pounds on the rear tires.
  6. 5 points
    A needle gun will get the rust and old paint off better and faster than anything I've ever used. Reasonably inexpensive tool, gets into those tight spots and easy to use.
  7. 5 points
    I agree with both of Rob's comments - i"ll eleborate a bit..... The BEST place to add weight in the rear is in and on the wheels, not hanging it on the frame or Unidrive. Why?// - because I'm the guy that gets to prematurely open the Unidrive up to change worn out axles, bearings, and seals. My C81 has fluid filled tires (30 lbs each), 2 link chains (20 lbs each) ans two castiron weights (a 75 pounder and a 20 - 95 pounds each.) I have added close to 300 pounds for traction - NONE of it in the "wrong" place. You need to be SURE you can stop with the added weight and the weight of a plow or snowblower. Inspect the brake drum, lining, and seal An oily brake is just asking for trouble.
  8. 5 points
    Last week I mowed this 2 1/2 acres with my C-120/180-8 speed and my 520-H. I was out yesterday grinding up leaf's with C-120/180. Everything has been dry here for about two months, At least half of the leaf's just turned to dust and blew away. I was trying to get rid of most of the leaf's before it rained today.
  9. 5 points
    Nice B-100, I'm twelve and own 2 wheel horses so far. keep that B-100 and make it a running worker again
  10. 5 points
  11. 4 points
    Build an e tank. It's CHEEP! and not labor intensive! All you need is half of a plastic 55 gal drum or garbage can, a scrap of steel and a battery charger.
  12. 4 points
    @gwest_ca @ebinmaine @23 Reo totally agree with the fuel additive , running in a used engine , want to add KROIL , to that fuel , talk about a crud cutter ! often use a separate gallon of fuel , on a used engine . fast idle , look / listen , good time for a hot oil flush , add , RISLONE , zinc , about 4 oz. , for 2 qts oil , drop carb bowl , etc. . very good base line service , obviousely other issues , but its , really made changes to engines that I have picked up , pete
  13. 4 points
    Probably start with 2 oz. per tank for a couple of tanks full then 1/2 oz. per tank.
  14. 4 points
    Try a shot of Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel. It will lubricate the valve stems and help to ensure the valves move as fast as required. Have had the same results using 2-stroke oil.
  15. 4 points
    You're welcome to send that carb up to me and I'll rebuild it for you
  16. 3 points
    I give my scrap metal to a small time scrapper. He collects truck and trailer loads and sells it down in Chelsea Ma. I like supporting him because I can get rid of my metal. It is getting very hard to get rid of anything in the Peoples Republic of Eastern Massachusetts.
  17. 3 points
    I know just about everyone has challenges, and it's no surprise that sometimes it is difficult to feel thankful. But I think just about anyone can find things to be thankful for. First thing that comes to mind for me, is being in this great country. Yeah, there's plenty to complain about here if you want to, but just think what it would be like to be in Gaza or Israel right now, or many other parts of the world that are suffering. In our house, we reflect on a few things we are grateful for every evening around the dinner table. Tomorrow is an extra special day for that. I hope you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving with people you love.
  18. 3 points
    IMHO and with all due respect to those who use it... I believe PB Blaster is only worth anything because of excellent marketing. I've never been a fan. Multiple products have been shown over and over to be superior.
  19. 3 points
    Back on all fours. Engine turns over!! Needs minor finishing up and hood put on. Hopefully add gas and drive it around!!
  20. 3 points
  21. 3 points
    i have used scaler, various grinders, some hand sanding, etc but very best decision for any wheel with more than minor rust is definately sand blast -- looking at your photos of rusty rims i would certainly send them to blaster --- i use professional blaster -- it costs some cash but considering the long term use and benefit the sand blasting is best decison for labor time, the mess, return on $$ investment, etc
  22. 3 points
    Arthritis in my right hip went crazy this past spring. i am truly blessed to have excellent health insurance. My out of pocket cost for the surgery was $10 for the co-pay.
  23. 3 points
    Bob a question, is the seat switch disabled. With the seat switch in the circuit it will start and shut off when the brake is disengaged if the seat switch is faulty look at the center of the drawing the switches feed the k1 kill relay.
  24. 3 points
    I've had great luck with Kroil for loosening bolts. I still have PB Blaster but Kroil works better in my opinion.
  25. 3 points
    Feeling a bit better today so I ventured out to the shop for a bit. Rear lift tube and clamp ready to install. Fender bracket assembly and lift tube installed. Dipstick and tube ready to install. Dipstick and tube installed. I used this thread sealant on the two bolts for the lift tube clamp and also for the dipstick tube. Trying to keep as much water as possible out of this transmission. Overview as of today.
  26. 3 points
    Sandblasting is definately the best option. If that's not in the budget a angle grinder with (various) wire wheels will work pretty good. As a primer I can highly recommend a zinc-spray, which can be (spray-) painted over with Hammerite. Also treating the inside of the wheel in the same way ensures the best long time result. Most wheels tend to rust from the inside out because of condensation buildup, especially when using tubes.
  27. 3 points
    The tool is also known as a needle scaler - works great on rims. Requires a lot of air and learning the proper angle / force technique.
  28. 3 points
    my suggestion will not make major difference but does have a benefit -- rust on the plow blade causes friction -- snow sticks to it as well as does not peel off very well when blade on angle -- Therefore I have cleaned rust from my plow blades and painted them to create smoother surface reducing friction from rusty surface then of course i coat surface - either a spray like WD40 - or cooking pam etc -- or use car wax -- Good luck !
  29. 3 points
    Just in case you have not found them yet 2 pages of info on the model 1-0141 https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=1-0141&quick=1&type=downloads_file
  30. 3 points
    Hope my response lives up to your expectations! Your hub needs to be held in place with a SET-SCREW, not a bolt. A set-screw is hardened steel and has a cupped end to grip the axie and the axle key. Here is a picture of a set-screw in case you don't know what one looks like. The axle seals can be replaced without taking the transmission apart. First you need to check the axle bearings to be sure they are in good condition. Jack up one side of the rear axle and see if the axle will move up/down or front/back. If there is any movement in either direction you need more than just seals. The seals can be purchased at NAPA or any good industrial supply house. Fore a 1" axle you will need a SKF-9815 seal; for a 1 1/8" axle the seal would be SKF 11050. While you are there get a couple new keys for the axles, chances are they need to be replaced also. Prior to installing the new seal be sure to smooth down any roughness on the axle to prevent damaging the new seal.
  31. 3 points
    one thing about ice if possible best to pre-treat with salt or calcium. the sloped driveway is in the back ground of the tractor. It is 9 degrees and 200' to the crest. I only use it to get up to my shop. but it has proven problematic for the handful of folks living up in the flats. Has been a proving ground over the last 39 winters for trying different things. I will have to share. my neighbor bought a new kubota bx 4x4 with R4 tires. He tried to plow and had trouble making it to the top without plowing. I ran up it with the 2 wheel drive loader with atv tires and he was not happy. of course it is mostly the driver. lol
  32. 3 points
    Fantastic news! Thanks for the info and your service to our country!!
  33. 3 points
    Slow down a bit here. You need answers ASAP and there are tons of folks waiting to help. Read the responses and re-read your post (I like to read it out loud to hear how it sounds) to give us the tools needed for the help you need.
  34. 3 points
    They're not ALL set up like that. You have the lighter duty Tab style hitch. I've had 200 to 300 lbs on my Tab hitch while pulling loads here. The axle tubes are 2" square or larger. The lower rear attachment point is a 3/4" bore for a cross pin. That's not enough meat?? I have a home shop made hitch modeled after several others here on Redsquare including Lowell's. I've personally had well over 500 lbs ON THE HITCH pulling a load of firewood or gravel that weighed at least 1200 to 1500 lbs total based on cu ft. Given the proper apparatus I'd say a Wheelhorse does quite well.
  35. 3 points
  36. 2 points
    I struggle every day because every day is a struggle, then I think of all the great friends and family I have that check in on me often. When they say call me anytime and mean it, the members on this forum that I have met that have driven hours to help me put a head gasket on my C160 because something that easy is now not easy for me. A close friend that works sixty hours a week but still makes time to put my pallets in my shed, loads my Wheeler up, takes me deer hunting, guts my deer, bones it out, then ask me what day do you want to go next week. My younger sister that just now checked in on me, my brothers that check in on me often, everyone every where I go people I don't know see me struggle and offer help. This thing called MS. ( MULTIPLE SCLEROSIS ) sure has done a number on me, but as bad as it is it has also shown me how fortunate I am, how blessed I am. God bless America. HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!!
  37. 2 points
    I have a scrap metal dealer near my home that takes scrap steel/iron at about a nickel a pound. If I don't have much I just tell the man at the scales I am giving them a gift and drop it off.
  38. 2 points
    Do you want usable or pretty? Usable. wire brush spray on some rustoleum rusty metal primer (Inside also) then what ever off white you prefer. Pretty ...sand blast ..
  39. 2 points
  40. 2 points
    This summer I painted a set of wheels for my 1054. I stripped the front with citrus stripper and sanded them to prep. I then used a good primer and sprayed them with Rustoleum Semi gloss Ivory Bisque paint and they turned out great. The rear wheels I cleaned and then wet sanded and sprayed with the same and they turned out looking good too. Time and labor was involved with each but my tractor is a worker and grand kid puller. I thought about a sand blaster but I had time to do it myself so I did. The electrolysis is an intersting way to clear the rust and lots will have a lot of the stuff to do it. Save the wheels if they are salvageable and you will be glad you did!
  41. 2 points
    Save yourself some grief and send it out to be sand blasted. You will be glad you did
  42. 2 points
    Just to add on to what 953 nut offered I’d suggest covering the key slot with a wrap of tape before you slide the seal onto the axle.
  43. 2 points
    Already?? Early??? Oh boy. Oh boy. Oh boy. Oh boy. Oh boy. Oh boy. Oh boy. Son we needs to talk. Today is November 22nd. This is near to THE LATEST day in the year we've had the first measurable snow (we've seen flurries several times). Our growing season is ended by the first frost usually in mid September. We normally get a measurable snow sometime in October. Occasionally late September. The last 20 years things have been changing. Maine is the state that is warming the fastest of the lower 48. Our weather is not what it once was. But the winters are still pretty aggressive.
  44. 2 points
    Wow, already? All we got is rain, but that's normal here. Forgive the hijack. I'm just shocked you guys have snow this early.
  45. 2 points
    The Eaton 1100 transaxle used by Wheel Horse is a very strong unit and is cast-iron as opposed to the aluminum planned obsolescence junk you will find in the big box stores. I have a 418 which is just like the 417 (just a year or two newer) and must say it is a fantastic snow mover. The hydraulic lift "bounce" isn't a big problem, the front axle on the Wheel Horse is also cast-iron rather than stamped steel. The Spec numbers on Series 1 KT-17 are 24299 or lower. The Spec number for '85 417-A is 24350 and the '86 used Spec number 24363 so both were Series 2 which have the improved lubrication system. GO GET IT!
  46. 2 points
    In order to clear my steep blacktop driveway, I had to first clear a path down to the road in the grass. Then I could return to the top using the path in the grass and push and blow the snow going down only. With 2 link steel chains and the blower raised I could not drive up the cleared driveway without spinning so I had to use the grass path. Then I bought a 312H that came with rubber chains. What a difference, I can now push snow up and down the steep driveway without spinning. The rubber chains work on loose snow and bare blacktop. The steel chains work better on ice and hard packed snow and on my gravel road. I never used the ATV tires, but they look like they should be as good as the rubber chains. Weight is the key to increase the traction. Filled tires, wheel weights, and rear and front weight.
  47. 2 points
    When I say ACC,I mean on the back of the switch.
  48. 2 points
    Meh. I’ll let you know when I break my Horse. I am pretty confident you don’t need to wait up for me
  49. 2 points
    That depends on your comparison field. I've seen PLENTY of rigs that are clearly inferior in weight carrying capacity or the ability to pull weight. That's the main reason I got a Wheelhorse in the first place. That said, There are several options for additional poundage for your Horse. 1. Fluid filled tires. 2. Steel weights. 3. Concrete weights. Buy a top quality hitch from Lowell at Wheel Horse Parts and More. One of our own fine vendors. One can also make or buy a less expensive hitch off the fleeeeBay. I've done this. I do not advise that route. Once you have a good strong hitch in place you can build or buy a weight box and load 'er up!!
  50. 2 points
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