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Happy to have such a big family, kids and nieces and nephews! Two twin boys were welcomed into the family last weekend, Leighton is a big sister yet again! Tomorrow we are volunteering at the local homeless shelter, serving food all day. Happy Thanksgiving to all my tractor buddies!

I finally had an appointment with a Neurologist yesterday. I had hoped he may have a treatment plan that would take away the numbness on my left side but no such luck. He confirmed what I already knew was ailing me but didn't have any magic up his sleeve. PT has been going well and and I am doing a lot more "normal" activities which lightens the load for my wife. She has been great throughout my recovery and now that I'm able to do more she can have cataract surgery that has been put off for several months. I appreciate the support and prayers from all of you.

I may have forgotten to update...

Filled tires, wheel weights, rear weights, and me in the seat = near a 1000 pounds on the rear tires.

A needle gun will get the rust and old paint off better and faster than anything I've ever used. Reasonably inexpensive tool, gets into those tight spots and easy to use.

I agree with both of Rob's comments - i"ll eleborate a bit..... The BEST place to add weight in the rear is in and on the wheels, not hanging it on the frame or Unidrive. Why?// - because I'm the guy that gets to prematurely open the Unidrive up to change worn out axles, bearings, and seals. My C81 has fluid filled tires (30 lbs each), 2 link chains (20 lbs each) ans two castiron weights (a 75 pounder and a 20 - 95 pounds each.) I have added close to 300 pounds for traction - NONE of it in the "wrong" place. You need to be SURE you can stop with the added weight and the weight of a plow or snowblower. Inspect the brake drum, lining, and seal An oily brake is just asking for trouble.

Last week I mowed this 2 1/2 acres with my C-120/180-8 speed and my 520-H. I was out yesterday grinding up leaf's with C-120/180. Everything has been dry here for about two months, At least half of the leaf's just turned to dust and blew away. I was trying to get rid of most of the leaf's before it rained today.

Nice B-100, I'm twelve and own 2 wheel horses so far. keep that B-100 and make it a running worker again

Build an e tank. It's CHEEP! and not labor intensive! All you need is half of a plastic 55 gal drum or garbage can, a scrap of steel and a battery charger.

@gwest_ca @ebinmaine @23 Reo totally agree with the fuel additive , running in a used engine , want to add KROIL , to that fuel , talk about a crud cutter ! often use a separate gallon of fuel , on a used engine . fast idle , look / listen , good time for a hot oil flush , add , RISLONE , zinc , about 4 oz. , for 2 qts oil , drop carb bowl , etc. . very good base line service , obviousely other issues , but its , really made changes to engines that I have picked up , pete

Probably start with 2 oz. per tank for a couple of tanks full then 1/2 oz. per tank.

Try a shot of Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel. It will lubricate the valve stems and help to ensure the valves move as fast as required. Have had the same results using 2-stroke oil.

You're welcome to send that carb up to me and I'll rebuild it for you

I give my scrap metal to a small time scrapper. He collects truck and trailer loads and sells it down in Chelsea Ma. I like supporting him because I can get rid of my metal. It is getting very hard to get rid of anything in the Peoples Republic of Eastern Massachusetts.

I know just about everyone has challenges, and it's no surprise that sometimes it is difficult to feel thankful. But I think just about anyone can find things to be thankful for. First thing that comes to mind for me, is being in this great country. Yeah, there's plenty to complain about here if you want to, but just think what it would be like to be in Gaza or Israel right now, or many other parts of the world that are suffering. In our house, we reflect on a few things we are grateful for every evening around the dinner table. Tomorrow is an extra special day for that. I hope you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving with people you love.

IMHO and with all due respect to those who use it... I believe PB Blaster is only worth anything because of excellent marketing. I've never been a fan. Multiple products have been shown over and over to be superior.

Back on all fours. Engine turns over!! Needs minor finishing up and hood put on. Hopefully add gas and drive it around!!

i have used scaler, various grinders, some hand sanding, etc but very best decision for any wheel with more than minor rust is definately sand blast -- looking at your photos of rusty rims i would certainly send them to blaster --- i use professional blaster -- it costs some cash but considering the long term use and benefit the sand blasting is best decison for labor time, the mess, return on $$ investment, etc

Arthritis in my right hip went crazy this past spring. i am truly blessed to have excellent health insurance. My out of pocket cost for the surgery was $10 for the co-pay.

Bob a question, is the seat switch disabled. With the seat switch in the circuit it will start and shut off when the brake is disengaged if the seat switch is faulty look at the center of the drawing the switches feed the k1 kill relay.

I've had great luck with Kroil for loosening bolts. I still have PB Blaster but Kroil works better in my opinion.

Feeling a bit better today so I ventured out to the shop for a bit. Rear lift tube and clamp ready to install. Fender bracket assembly and lift tube installed. Dipstick and tube ready to install. Dipstick and tube installed. I used this thread sealant on the two bolts for the lift tube clamp and also for the dipstick tube. Trying to keep as much water as possible out of this transmission. Overview as of today.

Sandblasting is definately the best option. If that's not in the budget a angle grinder with (various) wire wheels will work pretty good. As a primer I can highly recommend a zinc-spray, which can be (spray-) painted over with Hammerite. Also treating the inside of the wheel in the same way ensures the best long time result. Most wheels tend to rust from the inside out because of condensation buildup, especially when using tubes.

The tool is also known as a needle scaler - works great on rims. Requires a lot of air and learning the proper angle / force technique.

my suggestion will not make major difference but does have a benefit -- rust on the plow blade causes friction -- snow sticks to it as well as does not peel off very well when blade on angle -- Therefore I have cleaned rust from my plow blades and painted them to create smoother surface reducing friction from rusty surface then of course i coat surface - either a spray like WD40 - or cooking pam etc -- or use car wax -- Good luck !

Just in case you have not found them yet 2 pages of info on the model 1-0141 https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=1-0141&quick=1&type=downloads_file

Hope my response lives up to your expectations! Your hub needs to be held in place with a SET-SCREW, not a bolt. A set-screw is hardened steel and has a cupped end to grip the axie and the axle key. Here is a picture of a set-screw in case you don't know what one looks like. The axle seals can be replaced without taking the transmission apart. First you need to check the axle bearings to be sure they are in good condition. Jack up one side of the rear axle and see if the axle will move up/down or front/back. If there is any movement in either direction you need more than just seals. The seals can be purchased at NAPA or any good industrial supply house. Fore a 1" axle you will need a SKF-9815 seal; for a 1 1/8" axle the seal would be SKF 11050. While you are there get a couple new keys for the axles, chances are they need to be replaced also. Prior to installing the new seal be sure to smooth down any roughness on the axle to prevent damaging the new seal.

one thing about ice if possible best to pre-treat with salt or calcium. the sloped driveway is in the back ground of the tractor. It is 9 degrees and 200' to the crest. I only use it to get up to my shop. but it has proven problematic for the handful of folks living up in the flats. Has been a proving ground over the last 39 winters for trying different things. I will have to share. my neighbor bought a new kubota bx 4x4 with R4 tires. He tried to plow and had trouble making it to the top without plowing. I ran up it with the 2 wheel drive loader with atv tires and he was not happy. of course it is mostly the driver. lol

Fantastic news! Thanks for the info and your service to our country!!

Slow down a bit here. You need answers ASAP and there are tons of folks waiting to help. Read the responses and re-read your post (I like to read it out loud to hear how it sounds) to give us the tools needed for the help you need.

They're not ALL set up like that. You have the lighter duty Tab style hitch. I've had 200 to 300 lbs on my Tab hitch while pulling loads here. The axle tubes are 2" square or larger. The lower rear attachment point is a 3/4" bore for a cross pin. That's not enough meat?? I have a home shop made hitch modeled after several others here on Redsquare including Lowell's. I've personally had well over 500 lbs ON THE HITCH pulling a load of firewood or gravel that weighed at least 1200 to 1500 lbs total based on cu ft. Given the proper apparatus I'd say a Wheelhorse does quite well.

Nice 66 Coronet also

I have a scrap metal dealer near my home that takes scrap steel/iron at about a nickel a pound. If I don't have much I just tell the man at the scales I am giving them a gift and drop it off.

if that is all you are hauling to the scrap yard , not worth the drive ( gasoline cost ). If you haul 500 pounds or more than you will get money.

I am a cheap skate and have taken some really bad shape rims used a needle scaler and die grinder with steel brush to clean 'em up. Even used JB weld to fill pin holes then prime and paint inside and out. Add tubes and they are good to go.

Best bet is to go heavy. I believe a decent alternative would be to use a clevis or slot hitch.

This summer I painted a set of wheels for my 1054. I stripped the front with citrus stripper and sanded them to prep. I then used a good primer and sprayed them with Rustoleum Semi gloss Ivory Bisque paint and they turned out great. The rear wheels I cleaned and then wet sanded and sprayed with the same and they turned out looking good too. Time and labor was involved with each but my tractor is a worker and grand kid puller. I thought about a sand blaster but I had time to do it myself so I did. The electrolysis is an intersting way to clear the rust and lots will have a lot of the stuff to do it. Save the wheels if they are salvageable and you will be glad you did!

Starting to get the new to me RJ snowplow on our old RJ tractor. I will be using this for my winter driveway snow plow!

The Eaton 1100 transaxle used by Wheel Horse is a very strong unit and is cast-iron as opposed to the aluminum planned obsolescence junk you will find in the big box stores. I have a 418 which is just like the 417 (just a year or two newer) and must say it is a fantastic snow mover. The hydraulic lift "bounce" isn't a big problem, the front axle on the Wheel Horse is also cast-iron rather than stamped steel. The Spec numbers on Series 1 KT-17 are 24299 or lower. The Spec number for '85 417-A is 24350 and the '86 used Spec number 24363 so both were Series 2 which have the improved lubrication system. GO GET IT!

Weights all the way around and fluid filled.

Hope you can make this out. The shiny part is a screw stud that has a wire blade style that the ground wire goes to. I wouldn't think you would necessarily have to use the stud for a ground, I would think any ground would work. I put an M8 on an older Charger and run the ground wire to a nut/bolt on the tractor and it works.

Not today, but this past Monday morning I bought a new hip.

We got about an inch of rain here in Ky. last night. The red clay ground was too wet to do any dirt work on the driveway, so I took a mile long stroll around the property. There is an intermittent stream on the property. Last night's rain was enough to send it into 'operating stream' mode: Our proposed building sight is about 50 feet to the right in this view.

I recommend tire fill and steel wheel weights. Keep your weight around the axle instead of behind the axle. Cheesy? I’ll take a WH over any of them. Like Eric said get an axle mounted hitch and you’ll pull anything you need to just make sure you can stop. 😉

Check for a loose carb throttle shaft. With the engine off turn the throttle to about 3/8 or 1/2. See if there's a wiggle in the clearance from shaft to body. Very common. Usually repairable with Hillman washers and the correct removal method. I use a Dremel to grind the backs of the screws off.

Got my fleet ready today!