Leaderboard

use of ax heads. Was out wrangling a horse and the guy had offered a log splitttttter. This was visible and thought it was pretty intuitive use of ax heads. This guys dad was a small engine repair guy and jack off all trades. The dad passed in 05 and over the years got rid of 4 flat beds of stuff. He did buy a WH new in 88 and it was there I picked it up. Supposed to call when the other stuff is ready to go. Kind of reminded me of my shop.

Second barn, so close. The dew is burning off slower and slower each day. I hope only one more morning matters. My buddy Matt stopped out last night and helped me toss steel. We basically tacked each panel in place, enough to get the last plane covered. Today, I’m shooting screws in the rest of the spots, then trim and vent and relax!

Ok Lance, Yet you still found time to text me your BS and horrible jokes!

Gentlemen, I have been busy plowing earth before installing a hedgerow. This was my first time using a ground engaging implement (and plowing) and I was amazed by what the tractor, a 68 Charger 12, could do!

@ebinmaine, Eric, the spec numbers for series 1 is 24299 and lower and series 2 is 24300 and higher. If you go to the manuals section under engines, there is a KT17 & KT19 service manual available. The descriptions part of that file has a nice breakdown of the years and Wheel Horse models that those engines were used in. -JD-

Ax heads are cool! But you just told us you picked up a horse ....... and no Pictures. What kind of a tease is this

Swap a set of rear wheel weights that I had for a set that @Sparky had and painted them today. Getting them ready for the tractor and winter.

Looks professional to me.Congratulations on a excellent resto !

Let me start off by saying I got bored this Summer lol ! I had posted my 2 - GT-14's along with my 2-stage snowblower earlier this Spring and after a while of no hits on that post and me with time on my hands, I decided to pull the 14hp Kohler off the GT-14 and a 20hp off a Sears SS tractor I had and make the ultimate snow blower rig for this Winter. Already bench tested everything and lets just say she didn't disappoint. the hydro is so quiet and it lifts this blower with no strain what so ever, which is the main reason for this conversion. Hope everyone had fun with their own projects, I know I sure did with this one. Thanks For Looking !!

It's increasingly evident that I can't read numbuzz rite. My feeble 🐻 brain saw 2012 for some reason.

2023-2022=11? 🐻 math?

I changed the transmission oil when I redid the tractor about spring 2022. Haven’t put many hours on it and the hours were just joy riding, not working hours. I will check the color of the oil, maybe refill, and add some Lucas…

Hot Dog got fire, the kill wire to the module was pinched. Now all i have to do is pull all the stuff back together .

Sorry, dark when I got home but my shirt pocket, got this one. 310-8 at the loading site

The Tow valve was very stuck on my C160 and i sprayed it with penetrant for a while with no luck. I've had good luck using a large vice grip pliers, clamped very tightly. I lifted the front of he horse fairly high to get the tow valve at a 45 degree. I put a temporary bead of caulk around the edge of the tow valve to form a dam to hold the penetrant in a pool to soak for several days. I used a large vice grip pliers, clamped very tightly and it finally moved and freed up.

Dan - place an ad in the "wanted" section of the Classified on the Forum. It is a fairly commom 4 terminal Delco-Remy unit...... Bill

Did you replace the spark plug with a new Champion H-10? Here is a chart with the proper adjustments for carburetors .

If you back them out 1.5 turns it should run. Then make fine adjustments to get best performance.

Yesterday, my wife and I took the kyacks out for a paddle around the lake. Was in the upper 70's, blue sky, no wind so the lake looked like a mirror, and the fall colours have gotten a good start. Was a very enjoyable paddle, and probably the last one until next spring. Today, we loaded the Cherokee onto the U Haul car transport, hooked it behind the Ram 1500 and headed to our Missouri location. Sure appreciated the 5.7 Hemi. It didn't miss a beat, got 13.9 mpg towi g that load, and had plenty of authority to get up to speed on the merge ramps. Sounded great getting up to speed, too. We were passing a motor homethat was flat towing a Wrangler. Hanging on the roof access laser on the back of the motor home was a sign that read "Actually, we do have all day." I chuckled for several miles over that one. Oh. Yea. Waved at @Pullstart as we passed near his neighborhood.

Kind of reminds me of a story a co worker told about playing with speaker locations and his stereo. He discovered that placing one in a heat duct made it sound better. He put a record of Bach's Tacata and Feuge in G minor played on a large organ in his stereo, turned it up, and shortly discovered that some of the base notes being played resonated in the heating system - they shook and rattled all through the house, ending his speaker placement experiment.

If you’ve satisfied yourself that the meter is more or less correct, then the next likeliest culprit is the voltage regulator. Make extra sure that the body of the regulator is solidly grounded--test with a good ohm meter between the regulator body and the battery negative post. Should be ZERO ohms. Anything more than zero is not ok. There is no easy on-tractor way to test a regulator thoroughly. Fortunately, they are not that expensive to replace!

Did almost 13 miles of pedaling today. Legs are sore, won’t ride tomorrow.

@muz123 @RandyLittrell have a happy birthday! Enjoy some cake and a tractor ride now, will ya?

Yes Sir . I ground out the inside with a de-burring tool. Makes quick work of the aluminum, easy peasy!

Bought a Troy Bilt "Horse" tiller a few years back. The big one with PTO drive probably from the 80's. PO was selling it for his brother who passed and had apparently not even used it. Has the Tecky motor and when I fired it up it smoked like crazy. Read about the reed plate upside down and checked it and sure enough it was. Must have been installed wrong from the factory as the tiller was like new. Turned reed plate with the hole down and runs like a charm with no smoke.

I'm with the pipe wrench group, vice grips just wont hold like a pipe wrench ..... I had a stuck one on a 'Big D' and only got it loose when I finally needed to pull the the whole unit for other work/repair. Got it on the bench and had to end up cobbling up a hold down apparatus (what a pain!) in order to use the pipe wrench, which a 10" wouldnt budge, switched to a 14 and cheater pipe and .... POW!! it finally gave up. Amazing how those things can get so stuck (kinda like a steering wheel) The flat blade slot was completely gone by then, so I welded a nut on the end .... comes loose real easy NOW!

Well here it is, October 3, 2023, over two years later. My progress? None. Engine hasn't been started since I left it in 2021. I moved at the parts off of the table and on to the wall to make more room for the latest 701. I'm looking at options for heating the pole shed, and if that happens, I'll get back to the restoration and reassembly this winter.

Come on Joe. Git it thogther You keep changing you handle. The Facebook police after ya?????

Joey Small Block is that you?

Just a word of warning. This applies to original and OEM carbs. Aftermarket and 3rd party carbs may have different thread pitches on the needle valves--typically more coarse threading. So far, every aftermarket carb I’ve installed came ready to run and I’m glad I did not mess with the needle valves before trying to start it. I only discovered the difference when I went to clean one a year or so later. Also, when getting ready to remove a needle valve, ALWAYS gently screw it in to the stop and write down the number of turns so you can put it back the way it was on reassembly!

I sold my neighbor a B-100 hydro that had a sticky tow valve that needed loosening up. His solution was pretty good . He placed a channel lock pliers on the tow valve hanging down and sprayed with penetrating fluid. He drove it around for a couple weeks and the bouncing around loosened it up! easiest method as far as I know!

Slow down a bit, it ain't no race. If you average 7 MPH or less it will make a big difference. When you are in better condition, then resume the race.

Was the frame work compromised, or did the lake bottom give way? That would be a sad day indeed!

Soak with penetrant. 8" Rigid brand pipe wrench.

Yeah, I got my 1.3 miles in also. May not walk today.

If it has round fenders (one each side and a square toolbox), it is an early one. 1962-64. The model names for them back then were: 1962 32E electric start 32R recoil start 1963 and 64 same format- 33R/E or 34R/E.

Painted the front porch stair rails today… gonna need another coat… After that I took the 84’ Work Horse and the 94’ 520H out for a trot to keep them limber… When I take them out like this I usually run them in reverse for a bit… just to move those gears as well. When I was going backwards on the Work Horse(8 speed) at WOT and high range, I noticed the tranny whining a bit. I know reverse on manuals usually make a little noise, but I am wondering if what seemed to me to be a little loud is normal…

Garry's on to something there. Could be multiple places. What's the age of the whole set of fuel lines ? Tank filter/strainer been replaced? Carb inlet could be an issue too.

The lake bottom has gotten soft and muddy over the years. The framework may have been compromised in the part that came out the side to support the slide, and the weight of that started pulling it over that way. I've started cutting it up and pulling more of it out with the tractor/winch or the pickup truck, and it was still holding together pretty well before I started cutting. So, hard to tell, probably a combination of factors.

Must have been replaced in the past. Here is the original A 5-pin 103990 switch can be used if a starter solenoid was added.

I try to be cautious because one doesn’t always fully understand the competency a poster is bringing to the poblem! That setting is for DC. The V~ symbol in the upper right indicates the 200 and 600 ranges are the AC ranges. That said, if the stator were generating anything, the DC range should show something . I missed earlier that you’ve replaced the stator. How sure are you that it was the correct stator? Did the number and arrangement of the coils match exactly what you removed? A wrong stator not aligned properly with the magnets might not give any output!

Nice progress……I know those knife Allen bolts gave me the willies even thinking about trying to remove them. Glad to see you are 2/3 of the way there. It crossed my mind to replace them with torx bolts if/when I finally get around to swapping mine

Awesome, thank you!!! Yes, this one is as you described. Thanks again

Saturday for me. The fall show is usually pretty good for shopping as everyone is looking to unload before storing the stuff for winter

This evening's fun was removing the flywheel side bearing. So far all the bolts for the case have backed right out. The outer bearing has two set screws that sit a little to each side of the keyway. The key is in further on the flywheel. Those set screws were BOTH loose. That made removing the bearing... a bear 🐻... because the cross shaft is scored. We sanded the outer portion of the cross shaft to remove as much rust and pitting as possible. I've plopped that bearing in the ultrasonic cleaner to see if I can free up some of the gunkiness. It moves well and straight but I feel like it's a hair too stiff. I started the penetrating oil cycle on the anvil. I was able to remove 2 of the 3 screws from the knife!! I'll heat the other one next time out there. The shaft is somewhat scored from the set screws being able to rotate with the bearing. It's still very much usable.

I was glad to have brought Mrs. P’s Panzer to the Portage show. I forgot about this video I took while there. I figured I’d post it. Quite the work of art! His stack baffles were grinder wheel nuts and he couldn’t believe I figured him out. It was quite creative!

It’s been 16 days since surgery so I’m cleared to ride again! Did my usual 12ish miles of trail today.

Planted a Redwood sapling... Yup, one of them BIG boys... Baby from my neighbors yard... Fingers crossed...!

Taking all the comments into consideration I think I am going to revert to the advice my father gave me as young boy. KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid. With that in mind when I arrive at the dump I will run the winch cable under the trailer, connect to a rope tied to the front of the leaf loaded tarp and pull it end over end. See drawing below. As the leaves empty out the back the tarp will become lighter easing any strain on the winch.

If you are rebuilding your snow thrower, many models from the 60's, 70's and 80's, use the same bearings for the chain drive shaft. ST-323, 6-0200, 6-0201, 6-0202, 6-6212, 6-6213, 6-6214, 6-6215, 6-42ST01, 66-42ST01, 76-42ST01, 86-42ST01, 86-48ST01, 98-42ST01, 06-37SB01, 06-37SX01, 06-42ST01, 06-42ST02, 06-42ST03, 06-42ST04, 06-42SY01, 06-42SY02 and others. The bearing part numbers are 107743, 100908, 101702, 101781, or 1968. If you have checked, you probably found that replacement bearings from Toro cost you around $60.00 each. These are the bearings that are inserted into the 3-bolt flanges that hold the shaft on either end. They look like this: The inside diameter is 3/4", and the outside diameter of the widest part of the outside is 52mm or 2-1/32" +/-. This is called an insert bearing, and the outer housing is curved so that when inserted into the flange, it's allowed to self-center. Here it is in the flange To replace both of these bearings will cost at least $100 with shipping if you buy them from Toro. If you search for this bearing online, you will find that a 3/4" inside diameter insert bearing is available, but with an outside diameter of only 47mm, or a little under 1-7/8", which is too small to properly fit into the flange. Here is my solution. I purchased insert bearings with a 7/8" inside diameter. This bearing has the proper outside diameter of 52mm. I also purchased bronze bushings with a 3/4" ID, and a 7/8" OD. I removed the 1/4-28 x 1/4" set screws, and pressed the bushing into the new bearing. Then I drilled and tapped the bushing, and inserted two new 1/4-28 x 5/16" set screws. My total cost for two new bearings, which now is a perfect fit for the flange, was $30.00 which included shipping. On my snow thrower, the outer bearing (closest to the chain) was attached to the shaft with a 1/4" roll pin. Since these bearings only come with set screws, I rotated the shaft so that the set screws avoided the holes in the shaft. There is really no need for a roll pin at that location. 7/8" Insert bearings - UC205-14, $5.63, Bearingson.com 3/4" x 7/8" x 1-1/4" SAE 863 Bronze Sleeve Bearings, #2868T172, $2.51, McMaster & Carr 1/4-28 x 5/16" Black Alloy Steel, Cup Point Set screws, $.11 each, McMaster & Carr All the prices are plus shipping. Hope this helps someone to get their snow thrower running quietly and smoothly again without having to spend an arm and a leg on Toro bearings.