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Got the C-145 out of the barn today and did some rototiling with it. The gave it a Well deserved bath after. IMG_1364.MOV

Hello Everyone, I just wanted to update you on my issues with getting my 417A running again. After throwing my hands up a couple of times I started to relook at everything. Come to find out that my intake valve retainer spring had cracked in half. That's why the carb was spitting back fuel when I tried cranking the motor. That's also why my compression readings were so off. I pulled the head to see if there was any damage done to the intake valve but luckily it was fine. I ordered a new a new spring cap and when that arrived I compressed the valve retainer spring, added the new cap, and very carefully reset the retainers. I added a new head gasket and torqued it to the suggested specifications. With all the issues with the carb I ordered a replacement through I savetractors.com. I then changed the fuel filter along with some of the fuel lines and spark plugs and crossed my fingers. She fired up and after that I finished replacing the baffles and shroud and went out and mowed the lawn. I just wanted to thank everyone for their help and guidance tin helping me troubleshoot this problem. Regards, Bob

Brought this beauty home today. She's not feeling well. (Popped valve seat). The stable is overflowing but always welcome another one if opportunity arises. Saved this one from the scrap guy. Not happening on my watch.

Pontiac GTO "Camino" outside a restaurant in town.

For the guys who gave me some advice , or my drive belt mess . A 82 " was to short and a 84" to long , but a 83 " just right .Also found out the clutch pedal return spring was in the wrong hole . The first picture is an 82" belt with it just on all three pulleys , the belt keeper was already on the belt , the clutch rod is disconeted . Just mowed the lawn , all good so far ! Thanks for the help !

Forgot to update you guys. I ran a can of seafoam throught it and within a hour it was idling perfect. Runs strong runs good I think I did good on it.

She floats!!! Thanks @Achto for the perfect solution!!! And thanks to @wallfish and @953 nut for connection suggestions/observations... cleaned up and treated with @peter lena's second favorite - dielectric grease... Needed a bit of trimming to fit on the plastic cover, but come to find out some one else has trimmed a bit before me... But there were no cheese curd crumbs or Capt'n spills in the area so @WHX?? and achto are off the hook...! All in all a good fix...

I've painted block and tins with regular paint, with no problems.

They are multiplying……and technically this was yesterday but I did move them this morning. They will be getting a grey weathered cedar frame next.

Wide as she gets. Happy hump day to all!

Little bit of mud on it.

My box blade is one of my best toys. I made it years ago from a 42 inch dozer blade, and have used it alot. The trouble is, it's not good for light grading. It's great for filling holes and such, but lightly smoothing just don't work. So- I'm making an adjustable wheel set to ride behind it to hold the cutting depth, and it will use the factory holes for adjustment. I'm also removing my solid lift links from the three point to allow proper float. I'm gonna just use a pair of chains. Hope to do some testing tomorrow. I just want to barely scrape the top of the gravel in my driveway. More to come...

Weld the hood up and five pieces are ready to be painted and got the belt guard fix and stuck it on the tractor will run it and make sure it works before I paint it that what I did last night getting closer to having the old 753 done

Some old trucks that I have.

@WVHillbilly520H Jeff we miss you buddy! Come on back and have a Happy Birthday celebration with us!

Don't paint heads either or @Achto will chew yer rear. I agree with just dusting the fins tho. Barely noticeable when all the tins are on and any paint will burn off by the exhaust.

Diagnostics

A couple of months ago my spouse made it very clear that my 20-y.o., 300,000 mile car had to go. The new-to-me replacement has all the stuff @Ed Kennell notes and more. I’ve chosen to take the long view and consciously use these “assists” for a good while to evaluate them. So far, most of them are winning me over, though in the same way we adapt to any other vehicle’s quirks I’ve been learning how this one behaves and in some cases, adjusting my own habits. Adaptive cruise control keeps me at a safe following distance at all times. Yes, it sometimes brakes harder than I might because it cannot see three or four cars ahead of an impending slowdown so I now know to help it by “down clicking” to a lower setting or tapping the brake myself. True, it also doesn’t say anything when I was cruising at 70 and am now going 60 behind a slower driver, where my other car would creep up and try to rear-end the driver ahead. But isn’t it my responsibility to stay aware? (The car does have a “heads-up” speed display to help me out here.) I really appreciate that in slow traffic I can let the system handle the smoothing out of the stop and go and that it’ll ask me, after being stopped for 4 seconds and having the car ahead move off, “Do you want to resume driving?” The lane keeping (Pilot Assist in my brand) initially irritated me, but I’ve grown to appreciate it. I realize that for years I’ve been driving too far to the right side of the lane and probably irritating plenty of other drivers. It also notices and calls out a lack of driver input on the wheel. If this were inattention (or worse, drowsing) it could prevent a crash. (This has a clear dashboard/heads up indicator and can be disabled with a simple keypress on the steering wheel for the current cruise control session or be temporarily suspended as long as a turn signal is operating). When hooking up my trailer to head to the Big Show, I learned that the car automatically detected it and disabled several feature like lane keeping, blind spot detection, and backup warnings because the body of the trailer would have continuously affected their operation--it did offer, though, to do a trailer lighting check by flashing them in a sequence. The sensors and cameras for detecting too-close nearby objects (both moving and stationary) are also a win for me. Yes, they don't know that I am well aware of the bush on the side of the driveway that I must pass closely to get into the garage but they did see and warn me of a pedestrian obscured by shrubbery when I was backing out of an unfamiliar driveway and they slammed on the brakes when I might otherwise have backed into an unseen car speeding past my driveway. I suspected the "engine off at stop” would be a real annoyance, but it just hasn’t been. The car has a separate battery for helping with restart so the engine is running before my foot moves from the brake to the accelerator to move off. The engine doesn’t stop if the A/C compressor is working on cooling the car. The same battery drives a supercharger so there is almost no acceleration lag and plenty of power. Passing is much more assured. Regenerative braking recharges the battery. So overall I’ve been willing to invest some time to learn new behaviors and adjust old habits to take advantage of these safety offerings and, to me, it is paying off.

Also are the front mule drive pulleys turning freely? While your checking your deck, also check that the tensioner bar is sliding freely. It has hard plastic bushings it slides on the need to be replaced when they are worn.

It should be on the inside pulley. It shouldn't strain the engine though. Is the deck turning freely?

Your deck belt should be on the larger pulley on the PTO. What size deck are you using? Is this happening with your engine at wide open throttle and the deck clear of any tall grass? The deck will load the engine a little but shouldn't labor at WOT. You may want to remove the deck and check the spindles to see if they all turn freely.

Don't wish, get you decals here.

I had a mate in the accident investigation branch who refused to buy any vehicle that was cleverer than he was. Automatic headlights or wipers or reversing, it was just all too much for him as he believed people should be able to drive cars, not cars. But he also hated buses on the roads and said if people couldn't afford a car they should be made to stay at home. Oh and he also came up with a compilation music album called "Tunes to die for" if we had a fatal accident vehicle, he would see what track was playing on the cd player and add it to his list. He was a real hero of mine.

Hope All Is Well Jeff Have a Great Day

I believe this is @peter lenas first post that did not involve lubricating something!! 😂👍🏻

An 854 is one of those sought after models. If it's in decent shape and runs, jump on that if the price sounds right to you. Post a wanted ad in the classifieds for the rims you want. Or check with A-Z Tractor.

Found this picture of my 2005 Chevy 2500HD I really like the looks of the "Cat Eye" Chevys. This one has a 6.0 LS gas burner that has been tuned. It does everything I need it to do.. And with the Rancho lift, and 20 inch Mickey Thompsons, the chicks dig it too. LOL

A little late to this party, sorry. I'll get some pics of my trucks and post them for you guys. For now though, here's a pic of my freshly painted and buffed 1966 Chevelle. Just got to put it back together and it's finished for this year. I'd like to have it in one show before Winter. The interior is new and it is powered by a 454 BBC with a Muncie 4 speed. Runs great !!

I recently acquired my 522xi back that I sold a few years back. This will be my main mowing machine again. Since getting it back home I have been looking for a 60" deck for it but nothing local. So figured I'd see how my luck is at my local dealer (relative). With hopes of finding a good used one, but no luck. What I did find was 2 Nos one the never have been mounted or seen grass. The bottoms are like new but tops are sun faded from years of being outside in the sun. One is a 1996 and other is a 1998. They look better all cleaned up.

I'm sure it doesn't cool as well (marginally), but I've painted all of mine with no failures- in deep south heat. Here, rust is a much larger concern. No paint, and a garaged bare metal engine will rust like crazy. I use high temp paint on the cooling fins. The rest holds regular paint no problem.

So far I've never had to make one a parts machine. I've brought them all back to being a functional operating machine again. This one is definitely being put back into service, but around here it'll be put on light duty because I split the work between all 35 horses, easy life for em.

I don't really paint the fins just a dusting. I don't think it is good to put a lot of paint on the fins.

Now that falls under, “having my cake and eating it too”!😂 A truck and a GTO—why didn’t I think of that?🤔 thanks for sharing!

Well, you folks that applied Occam’s razor to the problem were correct. Looks like a charging issue. The battery is only a few months old, so I don’t think it is that. I checked the tractor today and it only had 11.5v on the battery , jumped it with my car and it fired right up. Runs after disconnecting the jumper, but is at 11.7v while running. I assume I should see 13ish volts if it were charging while running? checked battery, ground, solenoid connects and all seems good. Haven’t checked the ammeter yet…I know that could be a point of poor charging should that be loose. Anything else to check? How does the charging system work on a Kohler 10hp C101?

That is the nice thing about being retired , it is always nap time.

Here is some information I saved from a post by @Save Old Iron. If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up.

I wish this one had a decal. I should have taken a picture.

grandson , marines , MIRIMAR NAVAL AIR STATION , CALIF , 9 MONTHS TO GO ON , C130J , CREW CHIEF / LOADMASTER , my son asked him if it was worth all the crap ? IT WAS SO WORTH IT ! BE FLYING THE PACIFIC , OTHER GRANDSON , first welding job , boat yard , framing , related metal repairs , $ 30 an hour , also has submarine welding in the works , groton ct ,, grandaughter , just back from a european school trip , hopes to go pack to paris next fall, then off to college , support them when we can , always turn around a question with , what do you think ? get them involved , talk it over , figure it out , that back and forth , is the magic you want . happy grand parents , pete / terry

Thanks rjg854, I dont think the 854 I was looking at runs but was thinking the same on bringing it back to life but looks to be a serious project. I appreciate the info on the 854 rims oliver2-44. Bummer, but now I know and I've got a 4 year range to look in.

5-speed? Tractor drive belt 108427 - (HA/4L x 88" or 1/2" x 88")

I bought a tractor with a bent latch, I was able to straighten it with a healthy pry bar while it was in place. I can’t assess the damage to yours, but mine was bent in the middle

Fuel line under pressure, if it has internal cracking (common with today's modern fuels) fuel pressure can get past the inner sleeve of the line and swell it shut.. once pressure releases, fuel flows normally. When I had my own shop, it was a POLICY of mine that fuel lines were replaced every 2 or 3 years simply as a matter of maintenance, even if they "looked good" - 2-strokes got new fuel lines EVERY YEAR (along with all filters) Fuel lines in bulk were (and still are) relatively cheap, and frequently solved or improved performance problems. I was going to say that should have been your FIRST step, but others have already pointed that out fuel lines are so often overlooked because they "look fine" on the outside - When you pull a line off a nipple however, inspect the line by looking at it end on and squeeze it flat, and chances are you'll notice the inner liner of the fuel line will have several cracks showing on the "end grain"... then think about what the rest of the fuel line may look like (especially areas where it is close to heat sources such as along transmission area, near the engine, etc.)

Pretty much on those decks, the easy way to do it - Start belt around center pulley and both sides pointing towards the idler side (left hand side from seat) , the front (from seat) length of belt going around the left hand spindle pulley, the rear flat face going to around idler, then thread belt to the RH spindle and start it in the front side of the groove, rotate all 3 spindles half turn and belt should pop right on in alignment and tensioned.

If it was a Kohler Starter, and bendix jammed - there's 2 things I'd note: 1) Surprised you couldn't hear / feel the difference (It'd have been making a racket, or should have, one that even I, being completely deaf, could actually feel the difference in how the engine runs - all the way through the frame to steering wheel- so I'd imagine it would have been very noisy.) and 2) If it ran that way with bendix stuck, you'd probably have overheated and worn out the bushings in the starter, and/or worse yet the magnets epoxied to the side of the starter case separated and/or broke, and/or wore out the brushes from all that spinning. If lucky, the magnets will still be solid (NEVER whack side of starter to get it to work again , it breaks the magnets rendering the starter jammed even worse) and you can rebuild starter with new bushings and brush set (Both still available in aftermarket and/or bearing supply, last I knew of) and of course probably a new bendix kit. We had a few of those now and then, usually after someone got the bright idea to grease/oil the bendix spiral on the starter shaft and dirt /crud built up making it sticky (They also liked to stick in disengaged position and would never kick out to engage ring gear) If you are not so lucky, then most likely you need a new starter at the very least. But also diagnose the cause of why it stuck in case it was something that could cause new starter to fail too. (Ring gear problem, starter might need to be shimmed, or something wedged behind starter mounting causing it to go out of alignment, etc..)

My immediate take on this was a poor connection that, given the current passing through it, heated up dramatically and failed. I’d suspect moisture/corrosion as the cause of the poor connection.

Just finished my winter project. I also restored the plow blade, now I'm going to look for some attachments.

This is my 61 701. I recently restored it for the local tractor shows.

A very Nice 701 Wheel Horse owned by Don Redding shown at Scott Mehlburg's Meet and Greet Octobe 1, 2011: