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Got the C-145 out of the barn today and did some rototiling with it. The gave it a Well deserved bath after. IMG_1364.MOV

Hello Everyone, I just wanted to update you on my issues with getting my 417A running again. After throwing my hands up a couple of times I started to relook at everything. Come to find out that my intake valve retainer spring had cracked in half. That's why the carb was spitting back fuel when I tried cranking the motor. That's also why my compression readings were so off. I pulled the head to see if there was any damage done to the intake valve but luckily it was fine. I ordered a new a new spring cap and when that arrived I compressed the valve retainer spring, added the new cap, and very carefully reset the retainers. I added a new head gasket and torqued it to the suggested specifications. With all the issues with the carb I ordered a replacement through I savetractors.com. I then changed the fuel filter along with some of the fuel lines and spark plugs and crossed my fingers. She fired up and after that I finished replacing the baffles and shroud and went out and mowed the lawn. I just wanted to thank everyone for their help and guidance tin helping me troubleshoot this problem. Regards, Bob

Brought this beauty home today. She's not feeling well. (Popped valve seat). The stable is overflowing but always welcome another one if opportunity arises. Saved this one from the scrap guy. Not happening on my watch.

Pontiac GTO "Camino" outside a restaurant in town.

For the guys who gave me some advice , or my drive belt mess . A 82 " was to short and a 84" to long , but a 83 " just right .Also found out the clutch pedal return spring was in the wrong hole . The first picture is an 82" belt with it just on all three pulleys , the belt keeper was already on the belt , the clutch rod is disconeted . Just mowed the lawn , all good so far ! Thanks for the help !

Forgot to update you guys. I ran a can of seafoam throught it and within a hour it was idling perfect. Runs strong runs good I think I did good on it.

She floats!!! Thanks @Achto for the perfect solution!!! And thanks to @wallfish and @953 nut for connection suggestions/observations... cleaned up and treated with @peter lena's second favorite - dielectric grease... Needed a bit of trimming to fit on the plastic cover, but come to find out some one else has trimmed a bit before me... But there were no cheese curd crumbs or Capt'n spills in the area so @WHX?? and achto are off the hook...! All in all a good fix...

I've painted block and tins with regular paint, with no problems.

They are multiplying……and technically this was yesterday but I did move them this morning. They will be getting a grey weathered cedar frame next.

Wide as she gets. Happy hump day to all!

Little bit of mud on it.

My box blade is one of my best toys. I made it years ago from a 42 inch dozer blade, and have used it alot. The trouble is, it's not good for light grading. It's great for filling holes and such, but lightly smoothing just don't work. So- I'm making an adjustable wheel set to ride behind it to hold the cutting depth, and it will use the factory holes for adjustment. I'm also removing my solid lift links from the three point to allow proper float. I'm gonna just use a pair of chains. Hope to do some testing tomorrow. I just want to barely scrape the top of the gravel in my driveway. More to come...

Weld the hood up and five pieces are ready to be painted and got the belt guard fix and stuck it on the tractor will run it and make sure it works before I paint it that what I did last night getting closer to having the old 753 done

Some old trucks that I have.

@WVHillbilly520H Jeff we miss you buddy! Come on back and have a Happy Birthday celebration with us!

Don't paint heads either or @Achto will chew yer rear. I agree with just dusting the fins tho. Barely noticeable when all the tins are on and any paint will burn off by the exhaust.

Diagnostics

A couple of months ago my spouse made it very clear that my 20-y.o., 300,000 mile car had to go. The new-to-me replacement has all the stuff @Ed Kennell notes and more. I’ve chosen to take the long view and consciously use these “assists” for a good while to evaluate them. So far, most of them are winning me over, though in the same way we adapt to any other vehicle’s quirks I’ve been learning how this one behaves and in some cases, adjusting my own habits. Adaptive cruise control keeps me at a safe following distance at all times. Yes, it sometimes brakes harder than I might because it cannot see three or four cars ahead of an impending slowdown so I now know to help it by “down clicking” to a lower setting or tapping the brake myself. True, it also doesn’t say anything when I was cruising at 70 and am now going 60 behind a slower driver, where my other car would creep up and try to rear-end the driver ahead. But isn’t it my responsibility to stay aware? (The car does have a “heads-up” speed display to help me out here.) I really appreciate that in slow traffic I can let the system handle the smoothing out of the stop and go and that it’ll ask me, after being stopped for 4 seconds and having the car ahead move off, “Do you want to resume driving?” The lane keeping (Pilot Assist in my brand) initially irritated me, but I’ve grown to appreciate it. I realize that for years I’ve been driving too far to the right side of the lane and probably irritating plenty of other drivers. It also notices and calls out a lack of driver input on the wheel. If this were inattention (or worse, drowsing) it could prevent a crash. (This has a clear dashboard/heads up indicator and can be disabled with a simple keypress on the steering wheel for the current cruise control session or be temporarily suspended as long as a turn signal is operating). When hooking up my trailer to head to the Big Show, I learned that the car automatically detected it and disabled several feature like lane keeping, blind spot detection, and backup warnings because the body of the trailer would have continuously affected their operation--it did offer, though, to do a trailer lighting check by flashing them in a sequence. The sensors and cameras for detecting too-close nearby objects (both moving and stationary) are also a win for me. Yes, they don't know that I am well aware of the bush on the side of the driveway that I must pass closely to get into the garage but they did see and warn me of a pedestrian obscured by shrubbery when I was backing out of an unfamiliar driveway and they slammed on the brakes when I might otherwise have backed into an unseen car speeding past my driveway. I suspected the "engine off at stop” would be a real annoyance, but it just hasn’t been. The car has a separate battery for helping with restart so the engine is running before my foot moves from the brake to the accelerator to move off. The engine doesn’t stop if the A/C compressor is working on cooling the car. The same battery drives a supercharger so there is almost no acceleration lag and plenty of power. Passing is much more assured. Regenerative braking recharges the battery. So overall I’ve been willing to invest some time to learn new behaviors and adjust old habits to take advantage of these safety offerings and, to me, it is paying off.

Also are the front mule drive pulleys turning freely? While your checking your deck, also check that the tensioner bar is sliding freely. It has hard plastic bushings it slides on the need to be replaced when they are worn.

It should be on the inside pulley. It shouldn't strain the engine though. Is the deck turning freely?

Your deck belt should be on the larger pulley on the PTO. What size deck are you using? Is this happening with your engine at wide open throttle and the deck clear of any tall grass? The deck will load the engine a little but shouldn't labor at WOT. You may want to remove the deck and check the spindles to see if they all turn freely.

Don't wish, get you decals here.

I had a mate in the accident investigation branch who refused to buy any vehicle that was cleverer than he was. Automatic headlights or wipers or reversing, it was just all too much for him as he believed people should be able to drive cars, not cars. But he also hated buses on the roads and said if people couldn't afford a car they should be made to stay at home. Oh and he also came up with a compilation music album called "Tunes to die for" if we had a fatal accident vehicle, he would see what track was playing on the cd player and add it to his list. He was a real hero of mine.

Hope All Is Well Jeff Have a Great Day

I believe this is @peter lenas first post that did not involve lubricating something!! 😂👍🏻

An 854 is one of those sought after models. If it's in decent shape and runs, jump on that if the price sounds right to you. Post a wanted ad in the classifieds for the rims you want. Or check with A-Z Tractor.

Found this picture of my 2005 Chevy 2500HD I really like the looks of the "Cat Eye" Chevys. This one has a 6.0 LS gas burner that has been tuned. It does everything I need it to do.. And with the Rancho lift, and 20 inch Mickey Thompsons, the chicks dig it too. LOL

A little late to this party, sorry. I'll get some pics of my trucks and post them for you guys. For now though, here's a pic of my freshly painted and buffed 1966 Chevelle. Just got to put it back together and it's finished for this year. I'd like to have it in one show before Winter. The interior is new and it is powered by a 454 BBC with a Muncie 4 speed. Runs great !!

Saturday we’re processing birds. We have 120 ish chickens to do and the 6 geese. We were going to see about reproducing the geese with an incubator, but they are eating all my stuff! They’ve damaged the camper undersides, chew the chicken tractor netting, etc. They gots to go. I was given this stainless steel countertop. I built a pressure treated stand for it, and now I’m plumbing some work station flusher faucets.

I'm sure it doesn't cool as well (marginally), but I've painted all of mine with no failures- in deep south heat. Here, rust is a much larger concern. No paint, and a garaged bare metal engine will rust like crazy. I use high temp paint on the cooling fins. The rest holds regular paint no problem.

I don't really paint the fins just a dusting. I don't think it is good to put a lot of paint on the fins.

Well, you folks that applied Occam’s razor to the problem were correct. Looks like a charging issue. The battery is only a few months old, so I don’t think it is that. I checked the tractor today and it only had 11.5v on the battery , jumped it with my car and it fired right up. Runs after disconnecting the jumper, but is at 11.7v while running. I assume I should see 13ish volts if it were charging while running? checked battery, ground, solenoid connects and all seems good. Haven’t checked the ammeter yet…I know that could be a point of poor charging should that be loose. Anything else to check? How does the charging system work on a Kohler 10hp C101?

That is the nice thing about being retired , it is always nap time.

Jeff How are you doing ? Have seen a post from you in a very long time.

I have no experience with that model transaxle but you may find the answers you are seeking in this service manual.

Here is some information I saved from a post by @Save Old Iron. If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up.

I wish this one had a decal. I should have taken a picture.

are you talking about me 😄 Wow, that's an accurate description... 👍😎 I had a Peugeot from the company to drive to a client a few moons ago. It's a brand new "Dunnowhatthe<censored>itwas" with all the blinkys and gadgets I don't normally need and have. When I want to overtake a car, I turn left and floor the gas until I've overtaken, then let the car back slightly into the right lane. As I passed the lane markings, the "system" snatched the steering wheel from my hand and held me back in the left lane. Immediately afterwards, I couldn't understand the emergency braking in the middle of the left lane. This system is dangerous to the public - how can such nonsense ever get approval. Wtf, is that for a bullsh... yap, the thing is called - lane assistant - but please, who in the real mine needs that? I almost got two heart attacks in that awful electric <censored> gadget garbage truck. Next situation where when I want to pass a truck, I turn on the left traffic light, let a faster car pass and "try to move into the left lane" Under normal circumstances, there's nothing secrecy except with that damn toy When I turned left, "automatic emergency braking" was performed in the left lane with no prior warning. A fast car coming up behind me almost crashes into this neverridesearch crap. In a regular car without that blinkyhupy, I'm going to floor the pedal and line up with the other faster cars. For me these are terrible scenarios Even if these gadgets were to be installed for security reasons, the last situation was a no-go at all. By the way. A simple distance beeper directly on the back does a good job as long as it can be switched off. I love my analog car, even if it‘s 25 years old...

Thanks rjg854, I dont think the 854 I was looking at runs but was thinking the same on bringing it back to life but looks to be a serious project. I appreciate the info on the 854 rims oliver2-44. Bummer, but now I know and I've got a 4 year range to look in.

5-speed? Tractor drive belt 108427 - (HA/4L x 88" or 1/2" x 88")

I bought a tractor with a bent latch, I was able to straighten it with a healthy pry bar while it was in place. I can’t assess the damage to yours, but mine was bent in the middle

Fuel line under pressure, if it has internal cracking (common with today's modern fuels) fuel pressure can get past the inner sleeve of the line and swell it shut.. once pressure releases, fuel flows normally. When I had my own shop, it was a POLICY of mine that fuel lines were replaced every 2 or 3 years simply as a matter of maintenance, even if they "looked good" - 2-strokes got new fuel lines EVERY YEAR (along with all filters) Fuel lines in bulk were (and still are) relatively cheap, and frequently solved or improved performance problems. I was going to say that should have been your FIRST step, but others have already pointed that out fuel lines are so often overlooked because they "look fine" on the outside - When you pull a line off a nipple however, inspect the line by looking at it end on and squeeze it flat, and chances are you'll notice the inner liner of the fuel line will have several cracks showing on the "end grain"... then think about what the rest of the fuel line may look like (especially areas where it is close to heat sources such as along transmission area, near the engine, etc.)

Pretty much on those decks, the easy way to do it - Start belt around center pulley and both sides pointing towards the idler side (left hand side from seat) , the front (from seat) length of belt going around the left hand spindle pulley, the rear flat face going to around idler, then thread belt to the RH spindle and start it in the front side of the groove, rotate all 3 spindles half turn and belt should pop right on in alignment and tensioned.

Time to find that old Wheel Horse mounted chicken plucker build thread. Somewhere in the "Strangest Implement Post"

I've not heard that about a Wheelhorse and have never done it. Also never had a problem. Pure age can damage or kill a VR. Yours clearly has a bad ground. The overspray is the indicator. When I build a new wiring harness I add several more grounds. VR is always one. Run a ground from one of the mounting bolts to the Battery Negative directly. Very nice work finding the issue!

Dang , you have a hidden tank in it to haul shine.

Thanks for all the input I am leaning more toward a short somewhere in the circuit. If it is the coil, the engine should still crank, just not fire, however sometimes I have nothing. I did not think it was the solenoid but I just put that on the list to check. I will first check the coil and use the in line spark tester when it happens again. I was going to get new points and condenser anyway, but was waiting to see if the coil was bad so I could get it all at one time. ISAVETRACTORS has a package with all three items plus a new spark plug wire. Again thanks for the input, I will post again when I have a solution.

The 701 came from the assembly line with the solid faced hood. The one in the picture isn't mine, but it is the correct hood. In 1962, the hoods came with the slots from there through 1964. In the case of the Lawn Rangers, through 1968. If yours has a slotted grill, it was likely replaced at some point. A pure guess would be that at some point, the solid face 1961 hood spares ran out. Since the 1962 versions were a bolt-on swap, they naturally became the only replacement available at the time.

Just finished my winter project. I also restored the plow blade, now I'm going to look for some attachments.

This is my 61 701. I recently restored it for the local tractor shows.