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Or an excuse to get another Wheel Horse.

You don't need your truck back, you need a new truck and a new body shop. It is time to turn the page.

grandson , marines , MIRIMAR NAVAL AIR STATION , CALIF , 9 MONTHS TO GO ON , C130J , CREW CHIEF / LOADMASTER , my son asked him if it was worth all the crap ? IT WAS SO WORTH IT ! BE FLYING THE PACIFIC , OTHER GRANDSON , first welding job , boat yard , framing , related metal repairs , $ 30 an hour , also has submarine welding in the works , groton ct ,, grandaughter , just back from a european school trip , hopes to go pack to paris next fall, then off to college , support them when we can , always turn around a question with , what do you think ? get them involved , talk it over , figure it out , that back and forth , is the magic you want . happy grand parents , pete / terry

Its for the push mowers from the mid-late 60s.

Dragged out the 867 after being in the back of the shed for almost 10 months.. fired right up

I have found that putting a glob of tacky grease on each end of the spring will help hold the balls in place. I then use an allen wrench or piece 3/16 round stock to compress the assembly while the shift rails are installed.

@Lil’ Pullstart

I was just thinking the same thing. I was never a fan of bells and whistles on my vehichles, but I am impressed with Mrs. Ks new SUVs driver assist features. Bells ring if an object is approaching when backing out in reverse and if you don't react, auto brakes are applied. Bells ring and warnings flash in the drivers mirror if you attempt to change lanes with a car in the blind spot. Steering wheel vibrates if you get close to the lane lines and it will make a steering correction if you don't make a correction. When in cruise control mode, a preset safe distance with the vehicle in front is auto maintained by slowing and or stopping Auto hi low beams headlight control. The auto assist can be set to meet the drivers needs. From complete off to warning only to complete brake and steering assist. Oh, and it has Immoblizers to prevent theft. All some pretty good features for old drivers with poor memory, hearing , and stiff necks that don't turn.

C-175

Have had this for a year and a half and figured it was time to replace the original one. Removed the 2 pulleys and spacers cleaned them up and painted the two pulleys black. It amazes me how someone could take the chrome nut that holds the cover on and use water pump pliers on the nut instead of an 1 1/8'' open end wrench Oh well. Fortunate to have had the opportunity to find one of these tractors. Very grateful .

nice collection!!

It’s nice to have choices when the lawn needs a trim….(I know, it’s Monday )

Actually @Lane Ranger just it's the rails that are different. The forks remained the same. The early rails are 3515/3516 and were upgraded to 5515/5516. The shift stop pin (3573) needs to be replaced with a slightly longer 5614 pin. The 3573 pin could be used but you wouldn't get the benefit that the upgraded rails provide. The spring and balls remain the same.

Years ago we had a 1054 transmission that kept getting locked in place when it was being shifted. We tore transmission down to replace the old shifter forks with the newer versions. Wheel Horse originally had shifter forks with half moon cuts in the forks that were more narrow . Wheel Horse determined that they needed to a deeper half moon cut in the shifter forks and sold replacements. My brother dad, brother and I rebuilt the transmission and were finishing it up when we got to the same place you are Lee. We had to put the two steel ball bearings and the spring in the transmission to complete the rebuild. When you put the deeper half moon shifter forks in you have to put a longer spring (there is a part number for that). We worked on this for about two hours late in the day trying to get the two steel balls and the spring to no avail. So we quit for the night. Next morning we went out and mom came with us. She had lived with our Wheel Horse obsession for forty years so she was not a novice. So she suggested we use a a bamboo chop stick to set the balls and spring an place. It worked like a charm as it held all the little parts in place as we lowered the shifter fork in place setting the fork up to work perfect! **** I have posted some pics but of a three piece RJ/Suburban transmission not a1054. ****

Me too. Which means anything I want to bring

I just purchased this 77B-60 with a 48" deck and tiller. Cleaned the points and fired it up after they said it sat 4 years! I'm asking for any guidance you can give me on finding parts for attachments etc. Right now need the "mule drive" for the tiller and would like a hitch. Front wheels for the deck. What part numbers should I be looking for.

Been to the above today near Penrith, Cumbria. Some photo's for you.

Another one that hasn’t seen the light of day in a while is my C-141 8 Speed with Sweepster Model 48 rotary broom. Fresh battery and some fresh gas and she fired right up! One day a few years ago I left it out on a windy day only to come back to the two side windows and the rear window all cracked, badly. I guess once one went it let in more air and the others couldn’t take it? I don’t know, but I do know that it was old and brittle so I removed what was left. Funny thing is that the windshield is still fine!

Seeing @Sparkys 867 reminded me that I should get my Commando 8 out. Hasn’t been out in years! At the big show this year I bought a set of cultivators for it, even though I don’t have a garden!! I’m going to take them back off and paint them because they probably won’t see dirt for a while. I know, I know it has the wrong hood decals!!

Hubs should not slide on the axle and you will want to pull the hub (or both if they're both doing it) and figure out what's going on before you damage your axle. You really want a second set screw w/locking nut 90* from the other.

to the forum. Axles in an 8 speed typically have about 1/8" or so of axial (in/out) slop. If that is what you are seeing, it is normal. If you have up/down, or front/back slop, that is not normal. Usually means the axle bearings are shot. You have found a good place to ask questions. Between the more active members on the forum, I think we have broken and fixed just about anything on a Wheel Horse that can be broken and fixed. Remember, the only stupid question is the one you didn't ask. Have fun with your new Horse.

I put a flip up plate on a 312 and didn't have to drill any holes. i would think the fender pan on the 3,4,500 series is all the same.

It doesn't mount directly to the fender but to the flip up plate. If the holes don't line up you could just drill new holes if you don't mind.

I do it just like @stevasaurus' video's. I don't like putting any grease in the bore or on the balls. Don't want them to stick or hang up. In fact I clean out the bore with long q tips and give them a light polish with fine paper and make sure every slides easily before assembly. I do put a small amount of white assembly lube on the shift rails but that's it.

You are one sick dude.

If you can save those brackets you're well on your way. 1976 and 1977 were unique in that the B-Series were identical to the C-Series except for a few bolt on items. Engine horsepower, high back seat vs low back, 15" steering wheel vs 13", 23-8.50 vs 22-7.50 rear tires, headlights standard on C's, optional on B's. Your B-60 started out with a rope start which is probably why there's no battery holder on yours. Someone did what looks like a clean job converting it to a "B-160". Here's my "B-160" It was a B-80 when I purchased it new.

Not my video, but wanted to share. I hope, maybe someday to get up to Waterloo and other Deere places to tour their stuff:

Also, sorry to hear what the world’s coming to…

If there is a terminal on the bottom it is the "A" and wire goes to A on the generator. Upper Terminals from left to right will be "L" load (for lighter/lights) "BAT" battery positive and "F" Field goes to F on the generator.

Maybe a tool to add leverage to turning an old brass natural gas ball valve or smaller water line? Stuck valve or hard to reach?

You can google Wheel Horse deck rollers and get lots of options. New deck roller spindles can be made easily with 1/2" rod and some 1" flat if you can weld. As said above check out "Wheel Horse Parts & More" he sells a complete tiller drive with belt.

A few things we learned on day one. Three kill cones and two processing stations is way backwards. Or we just don’t have enough processing ability. The three kill cones kept the hot water bath from getting too hot. With the burner on low, it was challenging to keep the fire lit and not get over temp. Me thinks a thermostat setup of sorts would be helpful. Our pressure cooker pot wasn’t big enough to process geese. Cousin Eddys lived another day. One of our helpers brought over an overdue on life meat bird. It weighed in at 11 lbs 8 oz! It was about the max size for the pot. We need more capacity to process geese, or we have to go old school plucking them. The plucker is great in theory, but it clogs with feathers all too often. It also works best to chop the legs off below the knee, otherwise the bird gets stuck easily. Back to water temp. Too hot is almost worse than not hot enough. Too hot, and the skin comes off with the feathers. Not hot enough and the feathers simply don’t pluck. Remedy? Toss it back in the hot water bath and try again. No remedy for putting skin back on. We also had two vacuum packers running, but that got backed up as well. After the close to 70 birds, there were about 15-18 left to final rinse, pat dry, and bag. I can see the allure of the heat shrink twist bags as well, but we’d need to add another turkey fryer pot to the mix, or bag and cool a bunch of birds, then switch the scald pot over to sealing. The grinder pump does a great job, on everything but the gizzards for the most part. I wish we could have kept more of those, but we were behind on processors in the first place, without further cuts. Live and learn. Yesterday, we took a day off and spent it at the lake with friends. It was a much needed day of rest. I have some pressure washing to do. I also learned that red camo is my favorite camo. The blood trough at the kill cones station was littered with various reds. In deer hunting terms, there was lung blood, liver blood and heart blood all spattered together. Quite the sight to see! I was the only one of the bunch hungry for chicken at the end of the day, so tacos for lunch and fish and burgers for dinner it was!

Ate like kings at the ocean today, right after I took this picture they dumped a ton of shrimp on the pile. Once a year the guys from my firehouse do a seafood boil

@JCM That was probably the same guy that drilled the hole in the dashboard!

I learned about the time I was in 3rd grade not to sharpen your pencil, sit down at your desk and lay the pencil on your desk. Especially if the desk sloped towards you because when said pencil rolls off, and you snap your legs closed to keep it from hitting the floor, you may carry the newly sharpened lead in your leg to this day. This past week I was fishing with brother-in-law. I was focused on tying on a new lure. He made a cast that went perpendicular to the direction he thought he was casting. His lure hit my glasses and then hook stuck in my nose. He had to remove the hood because I had no idea of which way to pull it. Fortunately it didn't embed the barb. One of the things about attending preaching service on Sunday morning is it give a fellow a chance to dig our splinters and scrub fingers of caulking, glue and paint!

I use my noice cancelling blue tooth ear phones as often as I can while mowing… and I DO sing at the top of my lungs!

A tack puller????

So, yeah, the "free" Acrobat Reader takes you to an Adobe account login page if you try to export. However, the "Save as text" option worked, it just took me a little while to clean up that data so I could put it in a spreadsheet with the part number in column A and the description in column B. In another tab, I have a sheet with a lookup formula in column B. If I drop a part number into column A, it populates column B with the description. I guess if I have more than one of something, I'll just manually update a quantity field, or maybe just allow duplicate lines. With any luck, a few weeks from now I'll be dropping a list of available parts into the Classifieds. Oh, guess I need a "Price" column also. That's another task I guess, at least for the bigger stuff. I'll be checking FleaBay and pricing stuff at least somewhat less than what's available out there. I may leave some in a "Make offer" state, and if I get an offer then I can check to see if it's reasonable.

Thanks guys. I haven’t got the seat dug out and actually looked at what it would take. It was just an idea I thought of. I’m just not overly impressed with any replacement seat available honestly

Jay There is a manual section here. There are Mods to help you with part numbers. There is a venders section also .Enjoy the site.

One more obvious point: don't drive the tractor when tranny is full of kerosene. Run through the gears with the wheels off the ground. Just too much pressure on the needle bearings with 100% kerosene.

Just a super reliable... pile of parts.

21. You were a member of your high school rifle team. 22. You chose the hunter safety course as one of your junior high elective subjects. 23. Your birthday and the first day of deer season were legal holidays. ( you could choose to use your birthday holiday on the second day of deer season ).

Gotta agree here that THIS tab is dual function--keep the belt on the idler and help stop it after clutch disengages! It isn’t enough friction to stop the belt by itself so one also needs the friction from the belt cover bottom flange and the “other" tab at the engine end of the belt guard. And yes, having this means the idler/tensioner pulley has to be off to install a new belt. Note that this tab’s edges are bent upward to keep them from hitting the belt.

I've got to agree with Mike, If the tab wasn't there the belt would probably not stay on the idler when the clutch is depressed. Though it touches the top of the belt it will not pinch it to prevent belt movement.

To remove a stubborn pulley that doesn't have the 'top lip'. Try this...(having removed the blade): 1) Set the bottom side of the spindle into the hollow of a cement block...leveling the other side of the deck, of course. 2) Put the TOP NOT on the spindle shaft and thread it to LEVEL with the shaft top threads. 3) Hold the flat side of a ball peen hammer onto that top nut which MUST be level with top of shaft. 4) Using a BFH, whack that ball peen hammer ---like you got a pair. 5) All you gotta do is break loose the pulley....then it'll lift right off. 6) when it breaks loose, remove the nut and pulley.... PRESTO ! Pulley off and shaft threads not damaged.

Well for $125 and a trip to staten island. Id say its coming along. The piece of stainless steel that she came with for a hood had to shape up and give sharper edges and trim for air cleaner and exhaust. Just need to strip it finish the cut edges and paint it almond.

First truck I ever drove was a 60's vintage Chevy Step Side. I loved that truck.

Here are my two Seniors. Figured we should have the pictures posted where they belong.