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I modified my 42" rear discharge deck into a full-on mulching deck. It mows beautifully with nearly no visible grass clippings. I have a Craftsman self propelled mulching mower that never left clippings and I thought, why not use the same principle on my Wheel Horse. Since it was a rear discharge it already had the arched blade areas sectioned off in front. What I did was to fabricate arched panels to mimic the front. The original blades were 14&3/8”. The closest replacement mulching blades were Stens 325-302 which are 14&1/2”. Because of the slightly larger size, I trimmed 3/8” off both ends of the center blade and rebalamced it. Adding the set of mulching blades and modifications, and my mulching deck was born.

Took a chance on this one. Pick it up in the Am. Half torn apart know. This is a 1056 with a good engine and tranny. This suffered from back yard mechanics. Never owned a 1056 I had a 1075 and a 1057 but not this model before. Hope you enjoy the picks.

Just replaced the front tires on my 312-H. Got a set of Hi-Run 15x6.00-6 4-ply Turf II from Home Depot for about $50 delivered. They were a bear to get inflated even with a ratchet strap wrap. First and should be the only replacements ever needed in my lifetime.

Grandson said thank you Kevin @Pullstart. He is already using the ash. Made a hoe handle.

Painted a air cleaner... and polished my nails ...

I for one am glad Steve’s meet/greet is cancelled…I go almost every year and have NEVER won the raffle tractor…I’m sure it was “fixed” @stevebo … just messin with ya!

I spread the beads apart with blocking for days so the beads hug the wheels when installed.

I have a Cheetah Bead seater. Didn't pay attention to the recommended pressure for the small front ties. Seated the bead but blew the tire and wheel halfway across the shop....

That's why I started installing tubes in EVERY tire I change.

I see you're running a Vanguard. I have several, and they are very good engines. Far superior to any of the "current" engines out there. Not as bulletproof as a Kohler K -series or Magnum, but as close as you can get... One issue with the Vanguards: the gaskets are the weak spot, and depending on which one goes can create issues that appear to be carb problems. When a gasket fails (typically a head gasket), the case gets overpressure and makes the pulse pump flood the carb. Point being, if you have a carb problem that makes no sense, check both the head haskets as well as the oil pan gasket on the PTO side. I've had two where that was all that was wrong, and it took a long time to figure it out.

I found a new roll pin. It works for now. I de greased the disk and it catches better. Then it was carb time. The engine had to be run at half choke all the time and didn't want to start and... sometimes was puking gas out of the overflow. So I just bought a new $25 chinesium special on Amz. What can go wrong with that Idea? I've bought other cheapniese carbs and they mostly worked, some needing a little adjustment. Not this one... Huffed black smoke on startup, would huff black smoke under a load if it was more than half throttle. I tweaked it a little, stil wasnt right. I put the new set of coils on it, because the old ones were msmatched and really old crusty beat up things that I thought would help the problem. After a couple take aparts and put togethers, I gave up and stripped the old carb down and cleaned it. it had a fair amount of crud and clogs... I flushed and cleaned it all out. Stuck it back on the engine and there ya go.... runs like a new one. No more misses, smoke chokes or hard starts. As far as I can tell the china carbs main jet was way too big and the idle jet screw didnt feel right. Something in that new carb wasn't right at all. The old carb back in place. The Old Nikki carb trumps General Tso's POS carb. Next up.. a new hydro filter and maybe some new fluid. The hydrostat has an annoying whine, louder than the normal not so annoying whine it had. When my skid steer does that it time to change the filter. We'll see how it goes.

I got two of these rustling the Great State of Michigan . Some dude that has a tractor railroad.. I am thinking of swapping ends so the discharge is in front so it will be like a DR brush cutter. If that does not work, the one deck with speed holes in the front might be a candidate for cutting the leading edge up an inch or so to open it up. Just spitball in ideas

This is a different model Wheel Horse and the engine has been changes but the PTO is what your's should look like.

Jim, I think that it was is going on with the shifter. I think if you had the early 702 with the straight shifter, the bent one came with the kit. I'm not positive about that...I was in Junior High at the time. Yes, that would have been a slot hitch. I missed that. I saw that hitch pin and did not even look at the hitch.

wrong rod also.....bent rod.... It was a feeble attempt to repair something the .......$%^&^%*% Never mind just a bad idea in my opinion..... I could not have said it better Eric ..!!!!

You could check to see if the wires are attached to the safety switches and if they are actually being pressed (activated) by the seat, the clutch, and the PTO lever. If all connections look OK, then you will need a VOM to check function of the switches. Be aware the problem could also be in the ignition switch or solenoid and the connecting wiring. I would check the solenoid and starter first by connecting a jumper from the battery + terminal to the small center lug on the solenoid. Oh, to the

You could've welded it all together!

Got the generator, gas tank, upper steering shaft on and more of the wiring done too little closer

We have those bag worms in Pecan trees. The can get bad if you don’t keep after them. I use a 20 ft piece of 3/4” steel tubing with a rag soaked (but not dripping) in diesel tightly wired to the end. It’s a little clumsy to work around the trees. Thankfully no overhead wires in the area. My wife insist on standing by with the water hose.

I paint everything with sunrise red, including my C-161 and E-Z Rake

Any one have an idea why the po drilled the hole for the pto rod? And why are there so many threads on the rod ? Its a c-165 john

That was a perfect venue too I'll have a Meet & Greet on Sat. Oct 7 starting 6:30 am to Sunday afternoon. 544 Amston Rd Colchester CT Plenty of on site parking, overnight camping starting Fri. Oct 6, Plenty of room to cruise tractors around so bring your tractors, food available, plenty to see and do the entire day.

Wow ... and I was always wondering who did the farmer fixes on horses come thru my ranch... my neck is sore from shakin my head...

@WHX?? Hope the air cleaner has a better color of red. Your nail looks like red oak stain.

To get you headed in the right direction: Check that the rubber engine mounts are not broken/torn/disintegrated (As Ed said replace them with solid mounts when you can. Google "Zack Keepler" he makes them) Straighten that threaded rod and clean the treads with a wire brush so the trunnion can be moved easily. Move the trunion back to its original outer hole in the triangle plate. Move (rotate on the threads) the trunnion to where it puts pressure on the PTO to engage the clutch. (If the rubber mounts are good it should just move the engine a little) The Helm joints that Peter recommends are a great improvement, but not necessary to get you started with your new to you Wheel Horse. While your working on this, now is a good time to pull the PTO bell off (remove the hoop) and clean and lube that large needle bearing. Don't over grease it, or it will sling greased on the PTO clutch.

Tough to say why folks do lots of things. Perhaps trying to cobblerize the PTO adjustment instead of fixing something?

I just hickory smoked some bacon that wet cured a week yesterday and sliced today. Pretty solid idea

Hello All, if this post needs to go o to engines I apologize. I’m in need of the fuel pump mounting and and location on the Gt 1100 that I just picked up a few weeks back. I know it’s a pulse type but it and the potential mount is missing. If anyone can share a picture of what I need to get that would be appreciated. I gave a the old girl a quick waxing last night. Looks pretty good. here’s the picture

So is what you are sayin Dino that later ones came with the bent shift lever from factory? All set up for a HY? I read the bulletin on bending it but CRS. BTW Rob the original steering wheel and center cap is worth the price of admission right ther...

OK yes pic = 1k words around here. That was the early models and they have such did away with it on older models. It disengaged the clutch idler so the tractor could be started without powering the transmission. When they realized the power of the Onan they figured they didn't need it. Used on many other older models and they rattle too. Wouldn't hurt anyone to pull the belt guard and see what's going on. Should be done anyway for inspection and cleaning.

Nice score!! The "added" notch in the lift quardrant is not original, as is the replacement muffler. The hood stand supports are only 701 and 1962 models, and are correct. As Don mentioned, it would have had the cast slot hitch and lift cable. Overall, about 90+ % original. A great worker - I still have Dad's 702.......

I bought a 48” deck site unseen 10 hours away with just a photo of the box . (Which is the first picture ) that’s the photo I bought it off of . I had it shipped and with being very busy i didn’t have time to take a look . Today I peeked in the box and seen something shiny and said this needs to be opened up to only find this 😬 . What a good day !

I've repainted both my 516-8 and my 312 Hydro because of the peeling paint. What happened to the quality of the paint when Toro took over Wheel Horse? My older C-120 had not a spot of paint missing. For that reason, when I got around to re-doing it, I chose to not repaint the hood and fenders. I wet sanded with 600 and shot them with semi-gloss clear to preserve the patina. But just to give it a little spark, I added a few flames to the hood. For all of my tractors I used Rust-oleum Sunrise Red and trim colors of Rust-oleum Gloss White and Silver. It was a toss-up between Sunrise and Regal Reds, but at the time I wanted to paint, only Sunrise was available locally to me. It is somewhat brighter red than the original, but I'm satisfied with it. For all of the purist's out there, forgive my use of non-official paint colors.

Well, we already have two what did you do today threads do why not a third. After playing Tetris in the little garage last fall, I knew there were quite a few decks hiding behind another stack of containers All states of condition. There are six here and five more not attached to mowers. I'll be back when they are all safely inside after pressure washer .

Speed kills... let's just walk down not run to get them cows down ther said the old bull to the youngun...

There was one at king street fire department in Danbury for two years however those members have not had it in a few years

Air cleaner looks much better Waldo... BTW what kind of junk did you sell me @Pullstart...I want my money back...... what's wrong with this pic... round hood mind you! OK a better view... I shoulda knew this wasn't gonna work so I'll blame it on @Achto Kev...

When properly adjusted and in good condition, the pull of the rod is somewhat balanced by the pull of the mule drive belt. I owned a C-125 awhile and agree that was not one of their better ideas.

The engine is probably pulled to the rear when the PTO is engaged. RUBBER MOUNTS.....one of Wheel Horses bad ideas. Replace them with solid mounts.

This one has an electric fuel pump... and the repairs seem to have cured all its ills. So far. But I will keep the gasket thing in mind. Thanks! The new hydro filter took all the whine away and now it even has more power than before. The filter was dated 6-30-1 I cant read the last number..so at best this thing has had the same filter in it since 2019. I think its ready to go to the barn and dig some manure sand pack. I'd give it a bath but considering where its headed... I don't see the point.

We have both the fall webworms and the Eastern tent caterpillars. I can remember my Mom going to war against them, she would take an old broom to torch the nests.

Chisel under the end. For really recalcitrant keys use the cutoff wheel on your Dremel. Slit the key lengthwise (fol owing the curvy of the key so you do not damage the axle) the use a chisel to collapse it from the sides in.

I was given a 2005 Toro Zmaster a few weeks ago for parts, all i was told was it stopped running 7 years ago and wasnt moved from that spot. 23hp Command, 60" ultraforce deck. Everything was stuck, engine was stuck but did free up. Starter was missing so that was my first task, i bolted on a starter and a new battery and to my absolute shock..it spun with the key. However..it had no compression. Pulling the plugs revealed air moving...so the rods were intact. Pulled the valve covers and none of the rockers moved, the cam was visibly not turning. That led me to pull the muffler, clutch, and rear closure plate and found carnage..20 teeth sheared off the cam, rear cam journal broken off, i found a stuck lifter. Im assuming, based upon no evidence of loss of lubrication anywhere, that the #1 intake lifter seized in the bore..the cam stopped..and nothing else did..the cam shed teeth and finally broke. I ordered a GM lifter bore hone, 4 new lifters, a cam kit, i honed the bores using brake kleen as lube, new lifters in, new cam in and timed it. Plate back on...and...nadda, blowing out the intake, timing issues. Pulled the rear plate off and verified my marks. I remembered years ago that kohler twin crank gears are a very tight interference press fit..but could slip...and that if the keyway us down..the timing mark should be 180⁰ opposite. Mine was 110⁰ out of time. So i brought my keyway to 6 oclock and indexed the cam to straight down. After cleaning the carb it fired right up..runs great. So..if you ever come across a command twin out of time...this retimes it.

They look great! I like to use bead sealer or mounting lube or both. It definitely helps with the beading and inflation process!

Is the piston not moving? Is the linkage intact on the control valve lever? I use 30w Super Tech in all my Eaton 1100s. .Super Tech Non-Detergent SAE 30W Lubricating Oil, 1 Quart - Walmart.com

Thank you all. The blades are working perfectly. Brilliant. I don't suppose I can tighten the slipping main clutch as easily!. A kick on the pedal normally produces the best result at the moment.

Woulda been a slot hitch, right?

This gets the juice between the bolt and the nut or body but what gets it to the bolted-on component?

My Father had a 39 B. I have pictures somewhere in here where I converted it into electric start. Found em!