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I modified my 42" rear discharge deck into a full-on mulching deck. It mows beautifully with nearly no visible grass clippings. I have a Craftsman self propelled mulching mower that never left clippings and I thought, why not use the same principle on my Wheel Horse. Since it was a rear discharge it already had the arched blade areas sectioned off in front. What I did was to fabricate arched panels to mimic the front. The original blades were 14&3/8”. The closest replacement mulching blades were Stens 325-302 which are 14&1/2”. Because of the slightly larger size, I trimmed 3/8” off both ends of the center blade and rebalamced it. Adding the set of mulching blades and modifications, and my mulching deck was born.

Took a chance on this one. Pick it up in the Am. Half torn apart know. This is a 1056 with a good engine and tranny. This suffered from back yard mechanics. Never owned a 1056 I had a 1075 and a 1057 but not this model before. Hope you enjoy the picks.

Just replaced the front tires on my 312-H. Got a set of Hi-Run 15x6.00-6 4-ply Turf II from Home Depot for about $50 delivered. They were a bear to get inflated even with a ratchet strap wrap. First and should be the only replacements ever needed in my lifetime.

Grandson said thank you Kevin @Pullstart. He is already using the ash. Made a hoe handle.

Painted a air cleaner... and polished my nails ...

I for one am glad Steve’s meet/greet is cancelled…I go almost every year and have NEVER won the raffle tractor…I’m sure it was “fixed” @stevebo … just messin with ya!

I spread the beads apart with blocking for days so the beads hug the wheels when installed.

I have a Cheetah Bead seater. Didn't pay attention to the recommended pressure for the small front ties. Seated the bead but blew the tire and wheel halfway across the shop....

That's why I started installing tubes in EVERY tire I change.

I see you're running a Vanguard. I have several, and they are very good engines. Far superior to any of the "current" engines out there. Not as bulletproof as a Kohler K -series or Magnum, but as close as you can get... One issue with the Vanguards: the gaskets are the weak spot, and depending on which one goes can create issues that appear to be carb problems. When a gasket fails (typically a head gasket), the case gets overpressure and makes the pulse pump flood the carb. Point being, if you have a carb problem that makes no sense, check both the head haskets as well as the oil pan gasket on the PTO side. I've had two where that was all that was wrong, and it took a long time to figure it out.

I found a new roll pin. It works for now. I de greased the disk and it catches better. Then it was carb time. The engine had to be run at half choke all the time and didn't want to start and... sometimes was puking gas out of the overflow. So I just bought a new $25 chinesium special on Amz. What can go wrong with that Idea? I've bought other cheapniese carbs and they mostly worked, some needing a little adjustment. Not this one... Huffed black smoke on startup, would huff black smoke under a load if it was more than half throttle. I tweaked it a little, stil wasnt right. I put the new set of coils on it, because the old ones were msmatched and really old crusty beat up things that I thought would help the problem. After a couple take aparts and put togethers, I gave up and stripped the old carb down and cleaned it. it had a fair amount of crud and clogs... I flushed and cleaned it all out. Stuck it back on the engine and there ya go.... runs like a new one. No more misses, smoke chokes or hard starts. As far as I can tell the china carbs main jet was way too big and the idle jet screw didnt feel right. Something in that new carb wasn't right at all. The old carb back in place. The Old Nikki carb trumps General Tso's POS carb. Next up.. a new hydro filter and maybe some new fluid. The hydrostat has an annoying whine, louder than the normal not so annoying whine it had. When my skid steer does that it time to change the filter. We'll see how it goes.

I got two of these rustling the Great State of Michigan . Some dude that has a tractor railroad.. I am thinking of swapping ends so the discharge is in front so it will be like a DR brush cutter. If that does not work, the one deck with speed holes in the front might be a candidate for cutting the leading edge up an inch or so to open it up. Just spitball in ideas

This is a different model Wheel Horse and the engine has been changes but the PTO is what your's should look like.

Jim, I think that it was is going on with the shifter. I think if you had the early 702 with the straight shifter, the bent one came with the kit. I'm not positive about that...I was in Junior High at the time. Yes, that would have been a slot hitch. I missed that. I saw that hitch pin and did not even look at the hitch.

wrong rod also.....bent rod.... It was a feeble attempt to repair something the .......$%^&^%*% Never mind just a bad idea in my opinion..... I could not have said it better Eric ..!!!!

You could check to see if the wires are attached to the safety switches and if they are actually being pressed (activated) by the seat, the clutch, and the PTO lever. If all connections look OK, then you will need a VOM to check function of the switches. Be aware the problem could also be in the ignition switch or solenoid and the connecting wiring. I would check the solenoid and starter first by connecting a jumper from the battery + terminal to the small center lug on the solenoid. Oh, to the

You could've welded it all together!

Got the generator, gas tank, upper steering shaft on and more of the wiring done too little closer

We have those bag worms in Pecan trees. The can get bad if you don’t keep after them. I use a 20 ft piece of 3/4” steel tubing with a rag soaked (but not dripping) in diesel tightly wired to the end. It’s a little clumsy to work around the trees. Thankfully no overhead wires in the area. My wife insist on standing by with the water hose.

I paint everything with sunrise red, including my C-161 and E-Z Rake

Any one have an idea why the po drilled the hole for the pto rod? And why are there so many threads on the rod ? Its a c-165 john

That was a perfect venue too I'll have a Meet & Greet on Sat. Oct 7 starting 6:30 am to Sunday afternoon. 544 Amston Rd Colchester CT Plenty of on site parking, overnight camping starting Fri. Oct 6, Plenty of room to cruise tractors around so bring your tractors, food available, plenty to see and do the entire day.

Wow ... and I was always wondering who did the farmer fixes on horses come thru my ranch... my neck is sore from shakin my head...

@WHX?? Hope the air cleaner has a better color of red. Your nail looks like red oak stain.

To get you headed in the right direction: Check that the rubber engine mounts are not broken/torn/disintegrated (As Ed said replace them with solid mounts when you can. Google "Zack Keepler" he makes them) Straighten that threaded rod and clean the treads with a wire brush so the trunnion can be moved easily. Move the trunion back to its original outer hole in the triangle plate. Move (rotate on the threads) the trunnion to where it puts pressure on the PTO to engage the clutch. (If the rubber mounts are good it should just move the engine a little) The Helm joints that Peter recommends are a great improvement, but not necessary to get you started with your new to you Wheel Horse. While your working on this, now is a good time to pull the PTO bell off (remove the hoop) and clean and lube that large needle bearing. Don't over grease it, or it will sling greased on the PTO clutch.

Tough to say why folks do lots of things. Perhaps trying to cobblerize the PTO adjustment instead of fixing something?

I just hickory smoked some bacon that wet cured a week yesterday and sliced today. Pretty solid idea

Hello All, if this post needs to go o to engines I apologize. I’m in need of the fuel pump mounting and and location on the Gt 1100 that I just picked up a few weeks back. I know it’s a pulse type but it and the potential mount is missing. If anyone can share a picture of what I need to get that would be appreciated. I gave a the old girl a quick waxing last night. Looks pretty good. here’s the picture

So is what you are sayin Dino that later ones came with the bent shift lever from factory? All set up for a HY? I read the bulletin on bending it but CRS. BTW Rob the original steering wheel and center cap is worth the price of admission right ther...

OK yes pic = 1k words around here. That was the early models and they have such did away with it on older models. It disengaged the clutch idler so the tractor could be started without powering the transmission. When they realized the power of the Onan they figured they didn't need it. Used on many other older models and they rattle too. Wouldn't hurt anyone to pull the belt guard and see what's going on. Should be done anyway for inspection and cleaning.

Nice score!! The "added" notch in the lift quardrant is not original, as is the replacement muffler. The hood stand supports are only 701 and 1962 models, and are correct. As Don mentioned, it would have had the cast slot hitch and lift cable. Overall, about 90+ % original. A great worker - I still have Dad's 702.......

I bought a 48” deck site unseen 10 hours away with just a photo of the box . (Which is the first picture ) that’s the photo I bought it off of . I had it shipped and with being very busy i didn’t have time to take a look . Today I peeked in the box and seen something shiny and said this needs to be opened up to only find this 😬 . What a good day !

No explanation required. Image number two says it all, rim held in bench vice.

Zach Kerber Machine and Design. @oliver2-44

There is a recommended pressure? I thought fetching them was just part of the experience 🤔...

I'm a Lea & Perrins Worchester sauce fan, would almost drink it strait out of the bottle. Most others that I've tried don't compare, but I'm always willing to try.

My guess would be worn and sloppy PTO hoop, link, thrust bearing, and the new hole gave it more movement.

I saw one last year. Photo; report; squash. Nothing so far this year, either.

That is a tapered pipe thread that relies on the threads to make the seal. There is no gasket or "O" ring. The alternating low pressure to vacumm created by the piston movement in the crankcase does not push the oil thru the loose fitting tapered pipe thread.

Got the table a few weeks ago but been busy as a one armed wallpaper hanger with an itchy back. When the table/cart arrived the package was absolutely destroyed. Some of the metal was scratched or slightly bent. I contacted the seller. Because the package was so badly damaged there was really no way to return it so they refunded me about $30. Ok fine. Assembly was .... Challenging. Metal quality is ok. Hardware was garbage. It was inconsistent at best. I substituted my own in stock grade 8 for the poor excuse bolts they sent. Directions garbage. I expected that. Bolt holes didn't exist in the lower pan. I was able to use it by flipping the bottom pan over. That was a PITA. It'll do for now. As I use it I'll upgrade weak spots when necessary. Would I advise buying one? Meh... Just be aware that it'll need another few dollars in hardware as part of the initial purchase.

Nice tractor!! I save tractors has kit for the K161. https://isavetractors.com/ultimate-engine-rebuild-kit-for-kohler-k161-7hp/

Here too...yes slot hitch. Key was 701 702. @Achto says small block parts are getting hard to find but not quite hens teeth yet. Mainly OS piston/ring sets. Nice lookin survivor and un molested no matter what.

As the wasp was exiting, he finally nailed a worm. He sucked the juice out of the worm until it was only 1/8th of it's original size. At first I didn't think the wasp was after the worms. They noticed when he penetrated the web and began thrashing about. He chased a couple and they emitted green juice that I assumed was not tasty so they managed to escape. When he did focus on a worm, it was game over for it. The wasp would claw his way through the web and every once in a while stop and groom himself. That's how I killed 15 minutes today.

dually noted I suppose both is best!

A few things come to mind. Fuel System Issues. (this is what I found of these machines) Debris in carb. the top of the carb can be taken off on the machine and the bowl compartment cleaned out with spray and compressed air. Debris in the tank. The fuel tank at the outlet gets. Blowing some air back into the tank with the cap off will clear the stuff, test run and if the problem clears and comes back later going to have to remove the seat pan and clean out the tank. You can get to the port through the fuel gauge port on the top of the tank. The carb has an electric fuel shut off that must have power to open. they use it as an anti back fire valve. Make sure it is working (should be done when cleaning carb) Ignition Question, if your machine has a black box on top of the right side near the valve cover it has spark advance. need to get a couple of those cheap inline spark testers and fire it up and compare the spark intensity. There is a vid on my YouTube channel showing good and intermittent spark. The spark advance if awesome when working and lasts a long time. but the parts are expensive if you can find them. Mostly the coils go bad. There is a kit from Kohler to make the machine a straight mag set up, but you have to pull the engine to install.

Got a deck put on the 520-8

Over heated fuse holders are caused by poor connections within the holder. Replace with a 30 amp holder but keep the 25 amp fuse. The 30 amp holder has heavier wire and stronger spring for better fuse contact.

Steel top - good. You may wish to weld a bare steel ground clamp post to it, maybe sticking down from the underside out of the way .... We have the HFT portable welding table - plenty of weld and grind marks on it....