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Put some nice ones in for the Kids fish derby tomorrow. Doggies and burgers for all.

I had to use my pizza to figure this out.

Hello all, Cleaning this unit up for a friend... sat on side of house for ~10 years. It has 400 hrs on it Made alot of progress today swapping gas tank and fuel system out and fresh gear oil / shift boot etc.... The work continues with grease and oil and so on. I had it running already on a gas hose stuck in a jug. Check out the evil fluids that where in this thing... it turned out to be more work trying to clean tank then put on a used one. Happy Weekend Tony 20230408_165121.mp4 20230519_101345.mp4 20230519_104536.mp4

Kevin does kinda look like your average USPS delivery dude...

It was kind of like it was shipped by USPS. First it came East from Minnesota to Wisconsin, then it went West from Wisconsin to North Dakota, and finally back East from North Dakota to Michigan.

I bought old D200 few years back was I rough shape have worked off and on just bout finished will try to upload pictures

Big thanks to 19richie66. I received the cup and it’s super awesome. I love it. Now for refreshing beverage

Either way, that’s a great bit of knowledge to bury with…. has anyone seen my 10mm sockets?

Definitely Ed @JAinVA has also been gracious to help me with a couple in the near future. Another couple slabs would definitely be helpful. I have a place close where I can have them also kiln dried. At this point in my life I should be winding down. The opposite however is happening. I feel compelled to dedicate myself more than ever to pass on and increase the legacy left to me , and that I leave for my children and grandchildren particularly in my craft. The yokes are a big important part of it and something basically extinct today that only a handful know anything about. My intention is to make as many as possible and to leave several in various stages of completion as a guide for future generations.

Ok thank you so much. I know about stuff because I'm a tinkerer etc. Don't look at stuff and say oh Lowe's or machine shop I figure it out and fix it. I could tell if I hadn't got them they would have been cleared out and stuck behind a barn or something. Until this I never even really knew of wheel horse or lambert. These machines are right up my alley because of all the gears and pulleys and grease gun needed and a little oil tin with some heavy weight gear oil go around them like the tin man 😍😍 that's why they have to go or I will be building a WH storage building 🤷🤦🤣 The two Lamberts and the IDKWTF but it's way cool made in greenville by some company I call the Green Goblin

When you do your installation be sure to have coil or S bend at each end to avoid work hardening from vibration.

Cost and ease of installation for mass production ? Think the rigid carb tube would've been Kohler's design and came with the engines and not so much WH. Still cheaper to use fuel line for that too and quicker to install. I'd assume steel lines wouldn't be used at all for automobile brakes if vibration cracking is even a remote potential problem.

Makes me wonder how some of these LSE’s could get neglected? I mean they were not cheap by any stretch of the imagination in 1986. Also they are some of the nicest garden tractors ever built by any manufacturer. Some people bought them and put them to work and I totally understand that too! I’m happy to see this one getting some well deserved attention!

I went to buy a cultivator for flower beds and end up with 7 WH's, 2 Lamberts, 1967 craftsman 4spd custom, a large green metal flake fiberglass custom built and 4 tillers. So my question here as I am new. I would like to get rid of all the WH's except the Raider 10. Idk what to even ask for them so could I get some input? So far every machine I have worked on runs good, cuts as expected etc. They were owned by a collector so they were driven into his barn and parked for years. I am located in greenville ohio so if anyone has answers, questions or suggestions greatly appreciated Tyvmia

I bought a Hesston manual a while back that was shipped out of Wisconsin, made a stop in Los Angeles and then back to Florida.

It was raining today, so I was just putzing around my shop. Finished a couple of minor projects that were cluttering up the bench, and did some minor cleaning. While walking the dog, I had cooked up a plan to rehab the seat on Clyde the C-195. Since the rain had dampened plans for brushing another coat of stain on the dock, I went into the tractor shed and took the seat off of Clyde. Got it into the shop and removed the crusty seat cover and padding. I was hoping to be able to wire brush the seat pan and patch a couple of rust holes then make a new seat pad. Unfortunately, the front 3" of the seat pan were basically rust just waiting to crumble into oblivion. Yes, it could be fixed, but time wise, it will be better to get a replacement seat and be done with it. Think I'll go with one of the steel pan seats from TSC.

I like pizza.

She's home... 1976 A-60 Electric NOS Little dusty and worn from sitting for about 47 years but she'll clean up... Many thanks to @Achto, @WHX?? and @Pullstart for making this happen... Amazing what folks on this site will do for each other and these little 's... Separate thread will get started with more details and perhaps a few more pics...

Useful question! Awaiting @Achto's wisdom, but I’m gonna guess that he’ll say “Look at the meter and go a bit in each direction until you get the voltage you want.” Remember that the WH voltmeters are not always precise!

This screw here Mike. Make sure you have 1/2 to full throttle on. Use your DMM. Doesn't take much of a turn to change it.

I never heard of it. However playing with it now if I understand it correctly, it would not work for any of my purposes such as stacking lumber. For example one 8’ board would require stickers every 4’6-7/8” to be supported. Essentially two stickers only that regardless where one would place them on the board would be incorrect. Again for my purposes many other factors would determine location if supports such as material thickness and height of pile.

I have a similar old pump I saved from the scrap yard. Don't know what I will do with it, just couldn't see it go to scrap. Actually found an old manual for it. I filled it with diesel to preserve it and put it in the barn. It's heavy! Instructions No. 2661F to be Read Carefully Before Installing and Operating ... - Fairbanks, Morse and Company - Google Books.html

If you look at the fuel lines between the pump and the carburetor on older K161 and K181 engines, they are steel. The connections at the ends are anti-vibration, brass with rubber inserts. There must have been a reason why Wheel Horse chose to only use it there and nowhere else, then go to all rubber in later models.

I had thought about building a similar 2 seater with a jeep body when a Roof Palimino had slipped through my fingers. Still think about adding one of these body kits to the Roof 60 tractor but it's a little expensive. https://www.morris4x4center.com/omix-mini-jeep-mb-steel-body-kit-mini-mb.html?msclkid=48b673764d7212e9cf2817110c5dfd19&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SHOP_M_MM_exterior&utm_term=4582833193426367&utm_content=body %26 frame Or building one from the Mini Beep plans from Struck. Bought the plans a while ago and even found a guy that could CNC cut all the body parts.

Home slice that's just the pump with the existing electric motor. Here's the old Lauson he'll be using to run the pump.

This one was a worker I believe but all there for the most part. Still a few more plans for it as time permits. Had a lot of fun working on it and trying to bring it back some. I enjoy trail rides and using it to pull a cart around or just staring at it. A very cool part of WH history. Take your time and enjoy working on it. The sound of that engine is well worth the wait. Good Luck

All: I thought about this earlier placing deck boards off my garage floor as I unloaded the truck today..... While working back in the 1980's as a Machine Builder, it was a common occurance to stage or store large components on the concrete floor prior to assembly. My Supervisor worked for years in the trade, and required us to do the 4/7ths calculation when placing large flat objects on short 4x4's covered with protective paper. He stated that you needed to take the length of the object, divide it by 7 - take that number and multiply it by 4. That resultant number would be the "correct" centering for the optimum wooden block spacing so as to negate the sag in the middle and the cantilever tendencies at the ends.... They would supposedly cancel each other out.... He would come by and God help you if they were placed wrong! Same goes for dimensional lumber I suppose.... Have any of you folks heard of this and used it?? @peter lena, @Pullstart, @Handy Don @formariz??

That is a lot of work for sure. That machine is a work horse!! Not much you cannot do with it. Nice work Tony!

I’m stoked. Put all the cannibalized parts back on the kohler an it runs. IMG_3366.mov

The parking brake on sunstrand hydros like yours is a weak spot . People engage it while still moving and it grinds off the teeth, the resulting metal fragments damage the hydro unit.. Drain your hydro and see if there are any metal sparkles in the fluid...

New one to me as a formal calculation. In the factory where I worked summers and when placing support for large flat or long symmetrical items with evenly distributed weight, we’d follow @ebinmaine’s system -- LOTS of blocking. Of note, however, someone had transit-checked the storage building floor and there were a couple of high/low spots that had yellow paint stripes. Could only put palleted materials in those spots! But you got me curious, Bill, so I went to my favorite beam calculator to test this out. I put an evenly distributed weight over a constant cross section beam and used 29,000 ksi for the Young's Modulus (i.e. medium steel) and put supports at 3’ and 11’ from one end. Pretty even deflection. Tried it at 2’ and 12’ (more middle sag) and then again at 4’ and 10’ (more end sag). Tried it again with a lower modulus 1,300 ksi (standard plywood) and the sag was greater (of course) but still evenly distributed. I don’t know that 4/7’s is a precise determinant since I didn’t feel like factoring all the equations but it does seem like a pretty darned good rule of thumb!

I've heard of that somewhere way back in the past. Far as using it though... I've always worked for places that believed in doing many things a little overboard and hopefully to a good cause. We'd have just placed 2 or 3 extra planks instead of two.

The 1075 and the 856 " Forsaken " smiling for the camera. Say "patina "

They're monsters. Hope the kids don't get dragged into the water. Should be fun.

Would you consider Nickel-Copper line? Easy to bend and strong. I've used it to replace rusted brake lines.

Yip!! Mike - these two ancient Delco-Remy documents (complete with corny pictures) should get you going... Bill Delco Remy Regulator Manual 1R-116.pdf delco_remy_regulator_service 1R-111.pdf

Pictures asked for

As @Lee1977 said the piston pump was a high pressure low volume pump. It may have been used as a spray pump for agricultural or industrial applications. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1894712087489578/This Facebook site looks promising. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1JZAP_enUS981US981&sxsrf=APwXEddtZ5fxUWue773kMgwWppZiDeQtXg:1684495320652&q=dempster+piston+pump&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiIhdqJooH_AhUclGoFHVIgD4IQ0pQJegQIDBAB&biw=1366&bih=625&dpr=1#imgrc=52f6BYl6x4pSkM

check battery voltage, if low it won't spin fast enough to engage the bendix to spin flywheel. It will rotate but not drive gear into area of flywheel. Could also be frozen, clean up and apply "graphite" or any dry type lube.

Any photos of the Lamberts I did one up a few yrs back. Love them.

Oh yeah! Must.....have...more...filament! full 4mm thick with just over 1mm raised lettering.

That collector had no aversion to verticals, apparently. I have no idea how well they ran, but that A100 had its own unique looking appeal, imho. Quite the insta-collection that, anyhoo - not too shabby at all. Keeping the Raider-10 seems a good choice, all else being equal. Very nice.

That's one heck of a cultivator run!! Looks like some nice tractors.

Did some more food plot work.

Pete - careful - watch for vibration fatigue at the ends..... Bill

We had a Wheel Horse Jeep Jr at the Annual Wheel Horse Show quite a few years back. As I remember it had lots of "off the shelf" Wheel Horse parts incorporated into the unit. The owner was a Oliver and Wheel Horse tractor collector but his name escapes at the moment ( I think his first name was Phil). I'm thinking there was only 3 of the Jeep Jr's made and one was in England. He told us that the Jeep could do 35 MPH and gave us a little demonstration of it capable speed ... it was fast. Wild Bill in Richmond, VA