Leaderboard

TIDS: Tractor Induced Derangement Syndrome. Also referred to as Tractor Induced Divorce Syndrome in some circles. Commonly aquired disease, associated with close proximity to old iron, low levels of burnt oil, and inhalation of red paint. Acute cases caused by fake leather abrasion of one's hindquarters. Scraped knuckles, foul mechanical odor, and irritability have also been reported along with incoherent rants concerning "stuck bolts". Sorry bubba, no cure. Mild symptoms: 1-3 tractors. Acute: 4-7 tractors. Chronic: more than 8 machines. Side note: Having as many C160s as @ebinmaine can affect one's mental health as well...

Well I bought my first 310-08 back in the 90's and enjoyed using it but was just machinery I used to my mow lawn once week and put away story over. Then around 2000 I started doing some work to it and joined this group and folks here were very helpful. I hung around enough to wanna be a supporter and then boom all of sudden this crazy sensation came over me to buy a few more one at a time of course and play with and sell them. Usually bought only 300 series. Just bought a C101 for first time. Minutes ago I just struck a deal with a seller and gonna purchase 4 of them at one time. Is there is a diagnosis for this behavior? haha. Is there a remedy? Jack Daniels? Anyways many thanks to founders and other members that keep this site clicking I've found a fun hobby.

Another one done. It’s been sitting here for 3 years, waiting to come alive. Following has been completed: 1. Engine harness connector replaced with 2-Deutsch connectors. 2. All wiring has been replaced/repaired/upgraded including, removing the fuse block and replacing with sealed, ATC fuse holders. 3. All electrical connectors have been cleaned, blown out, and packed with dielectric grease. All terminals were cleaned as well. 4. New Battery 5. Entire fuel system was removed, flushed, and all new hose and filter added. 6. Trans was drained, flushed, and new filter and oil put in. 7. Fuel pump vacuum hose was replaced. 8. New drive belt installed. 9. All new bolts installed with sheet metal and coated with anti-seize. 10. New tail lights installed. 11. Engine oil drained, cleaned the inside of the pan, and installed a new filter and oil. 12. New seat fitted and installed. 13. Rear hitch pin removed, cleaned, anti-seize put on and reinstalled. 14. New air filter and wrap. 15. I’m sure I’m missing something…lol 16. Power washed entire tractor long ago when I bought it. Going to it’s new home, soon! IMG_8245.MOV

I think it's important to note that I've been deranged FAR longer than I've owned even 1 Wheelhorse. I'm pretty sure there's 14 or 15 here in the yahd area right now. 5.5 (yes) are TRINA'S. At Least 3 or 4 won't be here past summer. I have ... A few. 7.5 ((??))

The @wallfish Wally Digger machine. She owns exactly half. ½. 50% I own the other. I just don't know which..... And I AIN'T ABOUT to argue it. 🥋

Isn't asking this group for this remedy akin to asking a cure for pyromania of the person holding a match? Ferro rod? Blow torch?

Sorry, this is a very common problem. There is no cure, but you can keep yourself sated by acquiring more...and more...and...

Finally got the 418-8 running and ready to be a tiller tractor. I bought this back in November. It wasn't running and kept blowing the main 25 amp fuse when the key was turned to run from off. None of the tires held air for very long so I had an ok set sitting around that got installed. All the safety switches showed some kind of resistance when they shouldn't so I replaced them all as well as several electrical connections that were loose and/or broken from age. The test switch was shorted internally which is what was blowing the fuse. PO would jump the contactor in order to try to start the tractor so I replaced that and the starter. All of the transmission seals were leaking so I replaced them along with the oil that probably hasn't been changed since the '90's. New engine oil, air filter, spark plugs, fuel line and filter. Before: After: Got rid of that awful yellow seat and got one more suiting to a WH. I plan to paint the tins in the spring after the garden is tilled and weather is warmer. 015b87783f8ac110005f3500bf62f00c6fdf678ff8.mp4

I've always had good luck with my home made puller. The bolts are just threaded into hub with no nuts behind them. As you can see in the first pic, it took A LOT of pressure to get this hub off. This hub fought me the entire way. Took some sweating & colorful language but I finally won with no damage to the hub, axle or the puller. Center push bolt is 3/4-10

I struggle with 3 options on a daily basis... Option #1 Buy another Option #2 Be a responsable adult. Option #3 Buy parts for the 's Option #2 is rarely chosen... As a matter of fact I chose Option #3 about 10 minutes ago.

I I bought a Wheel Horse dump cart from Rodney Burger in Florida last week. I sprayed bed with truck bed liner and the underside with boiled linseed oil that protects and brings out the color! This cart has the early Indian head Carlisle tires. Still hold air but several cuts and bruises! I also finally put my new old stock Goodyear tires on the from of my one of my RJs. These are rare tires.

I just made my own and put them on yesterday, all stainless from amazon (w/grease fittings.)

I picked up these at a swap meet last year for next to nothing, still have the original dirt from 1970 on them, Lol. I put them on a C-160 I picked up to make it a roller, (it had the wrong 6" wheels on it & the tires were shot). I put 12 lbs. of air in them & haven't touched them since. Original "MayPop" on my 1986 417 A, Never leaks... Brand new tire on the front of one of my C-81's, was flat in 2 days, have to air it up every time I use it. Sadly the quality just isn't there anymore. I don't even have to tell you which side....

Hey I adjusted the text. Should work better for you now.

“...but I don't need a cure I'll just stay addicted and hope I can endure" B.J. Thomas’ Hooked on a Feeling

EB. Which one did BBT chop in half?

Yes...

I'm sure there are, but I really wanted to just chuck it in the trash because I hate yellow seats on red tractors!

Wait! Aren’t there gullible JD fans that would pay big money for that seat!?

More priming and painting… as I mentioned earlier, he has taken a page out of Richie’s “book” and elected to go with the charcoal rims to match the gray stripe in the bottom half of the hood decal… It is so nice to see these parts freshened up…hard to believe it has been over 50 years since they were last painted😳 I’m pleased with this little man and he is pleased with the accomplishments so far. Dan has been helping me with switches for the dash. The headlight switch was fairly easy to locate. Does anyone have a link for a replacement PTO switch? The factory original switches still work but I’d like to go with something new and save the originals since this tractor is going to be a worker. I would even be alright with a toggle, as long as it functions like the factory switch. We are installing a metal dash panel thanks to Richie and don’t have the holes cut in it yet, so a standard toggle would work…

I'm not sure what new tires are made of, but they just aren't the same stuff from even 20 years ago. My 310-8 has Carlisle fronts and Titans on the rear. They were all four matching Titans, but the fronts started to leak down so regularly that I had to replace them. So much for Carlisle quality... They aren't 5 years old. And none of my machines sit on dirt. I park my tractors off the ground religiously. I have other machines with decades-old tires that don't dry rot, but new tires rot in 5 years? Makes no sense... Anyway, I put a tube in the rear tire. Then decided to do the old "soapy water" trick to find the leak on the front. The tire would leak down in just over a week. Then is saw the leaks- all over the sidewalls. The cracks are so small that I couldn't see them, but they are there. I put a tube in it, but at $16.99 for an 8-inch tube? Bleeping ridiculous! Tires cost too much for this crap!

Finally got a warm enough day to get my bead blast cabinet out. It is a little bench top unit that i sat on two saw horses out in the snow. Cleaned up the brake drum. I am sure wheel horse never painted these. Do not have a before pic but it was rusty except where the brake band kept it shined up. It cleaned up nicely and got a couple coats of semi-gloss black. Brake shaft is cleaned up as well. I will let the paint dry for another day or two then assemble.

Like telling y’all that Jada has one Rylee has three and Mrs. P has a few and …

Oh... Ok ok. So it's HER fault !!!

Transference (blaming someone else) is another symptom.

The only cure I have found to be effective for me is this.....when I don't have a place to keep one out of the weather I don't buy...2 sheds full, work space under the deck is full....done for now....or .......until I get a bigger shed!

1057 out getting some sun

Thread screws into and thru the hub. Heavy washers and heavy nuts on the back side of the screws. Fine thread screw on the puller because: More threads per inch = stronger Goes slower = more pulling power I do not prefer a hydraulic jack because: If the jack works as intended it would be very easy to "overpower " the hub and break it. If you don't give a rats bee hind about the hub no biggie By using the screw to push you will feel if it's moving or not. Even with an impact gun. If it binds up it tells you you need more penetrant heat ect.

There are a lot of 6203 bearings of different sizes id . Always been. Some 1/2" ID some 5/8" ID. Some 3/4. 6203-2RS-8 1/2 Bearing 0.500 inch 6203-2RS-10 5/8 Bearing 0.625 6203-2RS-12 3/4"

I've used a marine primer bulb for years... works like a charm...

Depends on the hub material. Machined steel - maybe. Cast iron - nope. Better to pull from the rear, not the flange. Did mine a few years back... HF bearing Seperator, old Snap on Puller screw, threaded rod.

I'll also would rather use all right hand threads. You have to free up one of the ends to adjust but once it's set it can't 'unadjust' itself. I made these lighter duty rods for a non-worker. 3/8"-24 rod and once I got the length set to my liking I cut a piece of 3/8" steel tubing (Lowes) to length. Because of using all right hand threaded ends it only needs to be snug and not jam nut tight. I need to make new rods for my 76 B-160 before mowing season and I'll go the heavier duty route with heims (maybe 7/16" too )

If you are going to make them Heims Joints are the way to go. I have used a set I made in 1989 and they are as good as when I put them on. I use 1/2" heims joints the two with the bushings and 3/8" bolts were made in 1989 I shitch out those from my C-120 so it wouldn't have drill out the steering triangle. I use all right hand thread as once adjusted you never have to change them.

I've had other Redsquare members supply my center pieces of round tube. No lathe or access to one. 3/4" round rod can be bought through many online sources. I use 7/16 double male heim joints from McMaster Carr. I go to 7/16 because the holes on the steering systems are often oblong from 3/8" round. Quick drilling to clean up the bores and voila! Another bonus to the larger heim joints is a HUGE increase in strength vs the 3/8 heim.

I have cut the ends off, turned the ends down to 3/8", threaded them to 3/8-24 and installed replacement ends that are readily available. Course you do need a lathe to accomplish this.

From the farm

Zach is working on Blackbeard this weekend and I had him install his rear wheels so that we could move the frame around…

Far from fancy, its a side shot!

Haven’t done a lot this winter with my boys like I’d would have like to but I did manage to get some front wheel weights installed just in time for Spring. 😂 Gitty up

Got out for a birthday cruise. Made it to the pond where I rarely go as it’s not mine or my neighbors. Whoever bought the property did some tree clearing a couple years ago and hasn’t set foot on it since. I know I know..,it’s still trespassing! But I don’t tear it up, just roll thru and snap a pic or two. Had to find a break in the stone wall to cross back into friendly territory

Someone here on the Forun did exactly what you are describing - hope they chime in. Not all bottle jacks work well (or at all) when placed on their sides.... if you already have one in mind - try it...

I picked up a C-175 that by model/yr would have had a series 1 engine. However it has a gray series 2 engine. The spec number of the gray engine shows it was ordered by WH. I would assume that after the failures of the series 1 began WH needed to do something to keep dealers/customers happy. Now remember not just any service engine could be used. The vast majority of KT17 Series 1 or Series 2 do NOT have a thrust bearing on the PTO end of the crank. That is why WH had to have a special run made.. The parts manual for the replacement engine spec'd to WH shows the thrust bearing. As for the S you should look at the KT 17 Service manual it explains a lot of things like production dates.

Rubber has been an issue since the 90's Back in my Napa days we sold 16,18 and 20" winter wiper blades in bulk. You could get 3-4 years out of them unless you ripped them on ice. Then about 94 they started to crap out before the season was over. Crappy rubber combined with UV rays from depleted ozone was the reason. Same thing with trailer tires. They sit and the sun attacks the thin rubber.

This is correct. Dealer replacement engines were commonly painted gray. The tractor may have been built with a series I or series II. Either way a lot of dealers swapped out the series I for a series II when there was a need for replacement. We all know that the series I had it's down falls. Kohler fixed the issues with the series II. Unfortunately the series I gave them a bad reputation, which is why I think that Onan's become popular for a while.

Lee is right - you do not need both right and left handed male Heim joints, just the more common right hand thread. These are fine pitch threads - for a 7/16 -20 thread, turning the joint one full revolution only moves it .050 inch.... I've made two sets - do your homework before you order them. Most have the same thread for the body and the stud - but not all. The ones I used had a 7/16-20 thread in the body and a 3/8-24 thread on the stud. Watch out on the stud lenght too - some are way shorter than others. And they do NOT come with jam nuts. As shown in Lee's picture it IS important to have about the same thread engagement on both ends when finally adjusted.