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Me and @TonyToro Picked up a new to me 310-8 today! Washed it all up, and I’ll probably mow the yard with it this afternoon!

Yard art machine got a good spray down with clear coat today. I like it rusty but don’t want it to “rust away”

Everyone agrees that the Vise-Grip is an indispensable tool able to perform many tasks specially the custom versions of it. I however always thought they were awkward to use because of some of their characteristics. The mouth opening adjustment is time consuming and inaccurate requiring most time a couple of tries to grab the object properly so the right locking pressure is applied. Then to release it is not only that part in an awkward place to use but when it releases many times that happens violently one actually dropping the tool in the process. It’s never a smooth operation. Incredibly there is a better version of this tool and I just can’t find why it is not produced. It’s patent was awarded in 1950, and it was made by Channel Lock. It adjusts quickly and efficiently to what ever is desired. It locks securely and smoothly pressure being adjustable also . Release is smooth and tool will not fall since it stays gripped on object until released. Can also be used like regular pliers. It is of heavy duty construction and unlike a regular one there is nothing that can come out of place . I am lucky to own one and I have never put my hands on a regular one since this one.

Rolled out into the woods for a short trail ride on the 308-8.

And I had to get out my reliable Work Horse with the dual bagger. I like to bag the leaves and till them into the garden and use them for mulch. I have had the Work Horse somewhere around 15 years and it sure is a good tractor. I had to do an engine swap when I got it, put a Briggs out of a low hour Craftsman in it.

A few I let get a way

I pack a little in there just to help keep out moisture. Bearing buddy don't fill the whole hub unless you go Ape-sheet with the grease gun. Pretty much just greases the outer bearing. The biggest problem with the buddies I feel is they give the owner a false sense of security. Just what happened with my brother.

My late father’s ‘78 C-161. Still looks and runs almost as nice as the day he bought it. It mowed grass on hilly terrain and pushed snow for 40 years. As you can see, he was pretty particular with his stuff. A trait, much to my families dismay, that I picked up as well.

Come on up to Michigan. Bring your tractor and take as many oak leaves and acorns as you want…

Trina took this pic just a few days ago while we were collecting firewood in the forest. Obviously you can see that the majority of the leaves in the lower sections of the trees are still green but in the uppers there's some yellow showing through. Fair amount of the leaves on the forest floor shown here are fresh from this year.

Big ole' embossed letters!!

I'm about 24hrs and a little over 240lbs of mortar mix into this job. I'm learning as I go but there is one very important piece of advise that I have learned. If you need to do a job like this, call "The Guy". There is a reason why mason's get paid what they do. This job sucks!! Making progress though.

Not a Wheel Horse but my Dad was a Simplicity man. Here is a picture of him and I aboard his new 728 Broadmoor in the winter on 1972.

Bearing buddies are junk. You should clean and repack the bearings every year if it's a boat trailer. 2 years on other trailers. My brother had bearing buddies on his boat trailer. I asked him once if he ever took the hubs apart to clean and repack. He said no he just pumped grease into the buddy twice a year. The following spring the wheel and hub came right off the trailer at the ramp! Wish I had a dollar for every trailer bearing set I sold because of bearing buddies

Today, my favorite is this 854. Yep, I dig this little guy. Never needs anything and is always ready to go.

Sounds like a weak starter. But before you get a new one, make sure your battery to frame and engine to frame grounds are good. The starter gets it's ground from contact with the engine, and engine gets it's ground through the frame.

Either too much voltage drop to the starter or bad starter itself. Make sure the mounting of the starter to block is clean from rust

If all else fails you could run bushings instead of bearings. Keep them greased & they will run a long time. https://bronze-online.com/products/s841bsf-3244-16?variant=30696041316398&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr5buxrfV-gIVtIlbCh1LtwX-EAQYBCABEgLWWPD_BwE

In the wiring Demystification is a set of drawings for each major circuit with one being the starter. Easy to follow what is necessary for it to work so download that file. This is the file name to download - p7-127 1988-1989 516-H 520-HC Color.pdf

Hand packing tapered wheel bearings is another of those lost arts. Ther is NO substitute for taking the time to dis-assemble, clean and repack by hand the tapered bearings of any axle. THIS is the time where that "oh no" feeling comes in while regreasing - the less than round or crunchy bearing becomes quite evident. MUCH better than being on the side of the road with all the family members asking if you had checked it before starting the trip....

@formariz that post ww2 period for war related hardware was amazing , a lot of related grip devises were aircraft related, there was a giant Quonset like warehouse near Fordham college in the Bronx n y that had 55 gallon drums filled with that type of locking plyer . building was probably 300 Ft. deep , remember the entire length of the ceiling was hanging with leather / sheepskin flying suits . submarine lanterns , $1 , used to regularly pick up stuff , my father loved going there . often picked up tools , many still packed in cosmoline wrapped in heavy wax paper . flash back , pete

For the fourth time in just over a week, swept up leaves and cleaned out the abode gutters. BTW. There's no trees on my property. All the leaves come from next door.

Exhaust valve would stick sooner than the intake. Valve face could also be shot. Pull the head.

Well… Saturday - Back yard trail rides!!!

Thanks for all the replies gang, am definitely in some good company.....! Since I have the day off I think I'll mow the lawn with her today.....

First use an Ohm Meter to check the condition of the wires. The stator is basically one long continuous insulated wire wound around a series of iron cores. That wire should not be grounded at any point. With the engine not running and the 3 wire plug disconnected from the voltage regulator check both wires to ground. There should be no continuity to ground. If that is good an ohm meter connected to both ends of the stator will read about 1 to 2 ohms between the two outer terminals of the voltage regulator plug with it disconnected. If you don't get these readings it may be time to dive in behind the engine tins to see if a wire is broken or grounded.

Those welds are factory normal, splatter and all. I think that gear can be used but I'd definitely prefer to see it replaced.

First off ditch the orange death in favor of a NAPA 1410 or 5990?? oem. Brown fluid use 10w-30 oil. Sounds like you may have other hydro problems tho.

A good shot of the axle measurement and one of the hub/bushing/bearing at the center of the wheel will help a lot. Meantime, give a check to be sure there isn't a ¾ ID to 1" OD bushing on a ¾" axle that has "rust welded" to the axle. And apologies for forgetting my manners....Welcome to the Forum!

Those plows look almost too nice to use fellas... Worked on a front end for the 701. What a pain given what i had off the carcass to work with. Roll pin holes wallowed out. Steering arms pin holes all wallowed out.... I shoulda looked for replacements but was up for the challenge. My success hinges on the results of high strength epoxy.

Spent a rainy Saturday putting our newly acquired NOS 314 back into showroom condition after 20+ years of un-covered indoor storage. Took it to the shop , carefully removed a few pieces & gave it a thorough soap and water bath, followed by a blow dry and 2 bake cycles in the booth to remove any hidden moisture. Even though it was stored indoors, time and dust had made the finish less than pristine , so some corrective measures were needed. A light color sanding and buffing brought the finish back, followed by a complete ceramic coating. PTO assembly was removed and re-greased, along with a cleaning of the clutch mating surfaces. All the wire connections (plugs) were cleaned and re-greased as needed, oil was changed, gear oil changed, cup holder was installed. Deck chute and battery are here too ( not shown ) . Now it looks like a new machine should.

@WHX?? I bought that thing running and driving from original owner. Loaded it on my truck, stopped by a friend of mines house to show him my new toy. Unloaded it to drive it around, went about 20 yards and it stopped completely. Would not move, frozen in its tracks.So it sat for about 10 months until I found the part I needed for the tranny and a with some help from another friend of mine got it running and driving again. You can see the busted fork in the first picture and the shinny new one next to it. After my first battle with cancer I sold the two RER to members on here.

Today the roof purlins were finished up and the upstairs got 4' walls. The first 7 steps were built and the upper 12 stringers installed. More siding showed up as well.

Hope you get to feeling better Jim. My dad had shingles around the waist and it was very painful. After he got the metal roof, he was all better.

No telling how old the current trailer bearings are. They are china stamped. They are in excellent condition. For my rebuild in the 86 F250 rear axle I bought all NOS high quality bearings. Took some patience on the fleeeBay...

You are correct, @Heatingman. I would concur with Eric though... as my engines never idle below 1,700. No, it's not. If it was, all of my engines would be dead. My Tillotson 212R and Duromax 457 both idle around 1,800. Both machines spends most of their time running around the funny farm at 1,900-2,250. The bigger the engine, the less RPMs you find that you need for working. I never run the 457 at 3,600 while working... it just isn't necessary. Having said all of that, the way I run my engines, I do pull rod caps, check valve lash, and examine for carbon buildup on cylinder heads, etc. My engines consistently check out, no rod bearing wear, minimal carbon deposits... I never run hydro machines at idle unless the hydros themselves are disengaged. I should also state that I do run my Kohler k341 at idle, and below 3,600 the majority of the time. I only find it necessary to crank it up to 3,600 when I am on the move. Otherwise, pulling loads, etc... I don't find it necessary to run it up to 3,600, burn more fuel, dump more heat into the engine, etc. Just my experience... your mileage may vary... Don

Maybe I can talk him into dropping by my place and help me while he is in the neighborhood. More seat time ya know! A tractor with a tow behind sweeper seems to work best at my place - just so you can bring along the right machinery. @Pullstart as long as @SylvanLakeWH and I are scheduling @Moparfanforever time, what are your fall cleanup needs that he might help with - while he is in the neighborhood ?

Deck spindles are fine tread 3/4" - 16 on the blade. the top can be 3/4" - 16 or 5/8" - 18 if it's a metric spindle.

@SylvanLakeWH you got oak leaves coming down already? Mine are still green. Last week, I noticed that one of the neighbor's maple trees was orange up top, yellow in the middle, then green on the bottom. Just before the sun set that day, the top of the tree had gone to red, the middle to orange, and the bottom was fading towards yellow. I'm currently in our Mo. location. In one of the parks here, there is a maple tree that the southeast side has turned red and is dropping leaves, while the northwest side is still completely green.

@Lane Ranger good belt drive pictures , did some typical detailing for function on my set up , that idler frame needs a grease assist at the movement points , grease changed my idler pulleys , added a stronger pull spring , also have these https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=WkqVzw0S&id=AE943CDF7DFFA4FDF19FBA987FFD2ED41E37C2F9&thid=OIP.WkqVzw0Snv30XVpEuSLqX 1/2" m/f heim joints r/h thread , to steering quadrant lower hole point and end of lever rod , red aerosol grease that quadrant and especially slide pin point , only what I did , no sarcasm or negativity intended . pete

Drill out holes to next larger roll pin size.

Ugh... the opinion of many is that Fram is junk. WIX 51410 or NAPA 1410 is what you want. Yes, the E is for Eaton. If it was an S you would have a Sundstrand.

Welds look normal to me but the gear teeth ??? Eich... may be okay for just a show or yard ride. A guy could lay some beads down across those teeth then hand file them to shape? Just thinking out loud ther. What does the diff gear look like? @stevasaurus?? @Lane Ranger??

If it is just oxidized with out patina, a good wax job will do wonders. Nu Finish paste wax works very well for restoring a shine to faded paint.

Any good automotive paint polishing compound and a little elbow grease will do the trick.

Should be 36 volts AC between the two outer terminals if you have a voltage regulator built into the flywheel cover.

A pic of it in action Mark. @sjoemie himself Pullstart's dau hauled the mail on it. Shop looks awful squared away Tom