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Finally figured out how to get that video from the other day out of the phone and to the PC. Old men and technology don't mix! But here's a short video of the hoe operating. Keep in mind I haven't used this much in the last 5-6 years so I'm a bit rusty on the controls. It goes it pretty quick and smooth once the hand motions are in memory with repeated use. of coarse there were some big rocks in the hole which is common around here. Right after it was built it was used to dig a 4 1/2 ft deep trench about 100 ft long to bury the electric lines to the house. It wasn't super fast because the were stones in there bigger than the bucket but the $3000 the guy wanted to dig it was used to build this instead of paying him.

Everyone eventually realizes a hydro and hydraulic lift is a necessity for a snow machine. Wisdom comes with age.

Got this Lawn Ranger running today. Took it for a nice little ride down the road and back. Looking for a deck for it now.

Bbq is very popular tonight with the local girls. The field next to the house is normally for silage so it's a treat for them to watch the "human zoo" in action.

The difference between a hammer drill and a SDS hammer drill and bits, is night and day. It's worth the cost if you've got a lot to do. Not to mention the ease in doing so.

Ed, I don't know if I'll ever get old enough to refer to my mental dribblings as wisdom but I'm willing to accept "slightly less stupider".

(This was yesterday...) Stripped and painted the 416-8 hood, installed new bezels, ready to apply new decals. Used Regal Red. The fender shell, footrests, and mule had already been painted with the same color but look different now. They're dirty so a wash may help, or I may need to go over them again, plus wax the whole thing. Haven't decided if I want to bother with painting the front axle and other misc. parts. Rear axle was completely repainted while off. This is the tractor I plan to put up for sale very soon. Probably selling with the 42" deck unless the buyer really really wants a 48" (I have 2 working 48" decks also). Will post more pics after the decals are on and it gets a wash-n-wax.

We were in town yesterday running an errand. I was chatting to a guy and noticed a little trailer buried I grass on his lawn, so said it looked like a nice little unit. 2 minutes and £20 later it was mine and on the big trailer heading home! It's road legal, but ideal for the wheelhorses. Just needs a new deck as it was rotten beyond salvation. It even came full of firewood.... The kids just rolled their eyes when I turned up with it, however it's already been put to use moving our giant chest freezer to its new owner on the farm across the field.

Decals on, still have some cleanup to do. Many thanks to @Vinylguy for the awesome decals!

Completed the three tills except for dividers which will get placed according to tools stored in them. Till sides are dovetailed for strength . Tedious precise work on 3/8” thick material . Dovetail layout. First step scribe line on every end marking material thickness Dovetails lay out Completed dovetail layout Cutting dovetails . Mirror used to see kerf in back so as not to go over scribe line Tails cut Chopping waste between dovetails out Marking pins from completed dovetails Saw used to mark pins Marked pins Each two mating pieces have to be clearly marked Cutting pins Mirror used again to watch back kerf Chopping waste between pins Fitting bottoms 3/8 thick pine Bottoms get nailed in. Sapele sides are extremely hard and brittle . Pre-drilling is a must. Panel nails used since they are hardened and ribbed holding much better than a regular nail. A tiny counter sink needs to be done to sink head due to the very hard Sapele. Completed tills

My suggestion would be to take it to a private message. But maybe that's just me...

Now you should send them out to be chromed!!. They would look like vintage drag racing front rims.

I had a Bronco 14 apart and it had a limited slip differential.

Yes

These type of clamps are more like the originals and will make the heat shield easy on - easy off for service. The clamps and bolts don't show on the inside. https://www.ebay.com/itm/255424506711?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1AQWWTr0ISCGjT_4eZ8JLKg2&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=255424506711&targetid=4581046489808871&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418640322&mkgroupid=1239149842233245&rlsatarget=pla-4581046489808871&abcId=9300602&merchantid=51291&msclkid=f0950c0220241d6849d56ef0350e3c61

But are they the stock width? I seem to remember you had a pulley for a 5/8" belt on the engine and were running a 1/2" belt.You never told us if changing the pulley to the proper width cured it. How bout some pictures of your current kerfuffle? This sounds like the same tractor you were working on before.

Installed the Deestone D407 16X6.50-8 63A3 4 Ply AS A/S All Season Tires!

Most times a little bit of toe in on a garden tractor will yield best handling results. Race cars get toe out and not much gets even up. If you give yourself 1/8” - 3/16” less distance on the front of the yardstick over the rear, you’ll be golden!

Have you ever used deck screws in concrete and brick? I have a Milwaukee SDS hammer drill and drill a 3/16" pilot hole and run # 10 deck screws right in with an impact driver. Works great and costs a whole lot less.

100% agree Randy...Horror Fright has them cheap and should be good enough for homeowner use.

A good drillbit and a hammerdrill should do the trick. Also pictures of said brick would be helpfull aswell as the anchors you're wanting to put into the brick wall.

I have two tractors with 48" blades, both hydrostats,but manual lifts. I think it is getting time for hydraulic lift.

No expert, but I’ve done two Predator swaps with no issues doing exactly what @Pullstart suggests: mount engine exactly where crank and pulley was “stock” and everything lines up… simple measurements and simple to create a mount that does so. Of course, I used same sized pulleys. Change pulley size(s) etc. then time to fabricate as noted…

@Achto I’m using your grease trick. No masking.

@Hampton Getting any of these running will require significant time, tools, parts, and (most of all) knowledge (i.e. knowing your way around small engines and things mechanical). None are close to running condition and any or all may have fatal issues. If you are new to mechanicals and have no one to guide you close by, these are probably are not good "learn on" opportunities. Their value to most members is as sources for parts for other units or to be resurrected by someone with the above mentioned time, tools, parts, and know-how.

The real bad wheel got pretty far last night. I swapped them out to do a little clean out and check my progress. In man vs. machine, it’s good that I can sleep and it keeps working!

@Snoopy11 , morning snoop , think @ebinmaine @8ntruck @HowieE was spot on with experience / insight , personally don't have much trans insight , but the related levers and contacts are what interest me . always amazed to watch someone beat the hell out of anything , that has a very obvious linkage / shifter issue . when i look at a problem , the first thing I see is function , more often than not , there is a bushing , joint , lever movement start point , that is worn out / rust neglected , just very sloppy in its intended function . detail the hell out of what its saposed to do , fresh bushings , firming up starting point / related points , is what I would go for , of course , correct fluid . staying greasy , pete

Probably the way the guard is mounted on the non-stock engine. It's amazing how a story evolves from an 857 with an issue to one where it had modifications. Never get the whole story right off the get go. Belt has line up issues as well.

I just had a look and it pumps out 1.5hp at 1000rpm! The girls and I took it for a test drive yesterday and laid a new concrete pad for our fuel tank (heating). It will mix 1 x 25kg bag of cement and 100kg of ballast without even trying. It could probably do 2 bags and 200kg of ballast but it's 70 years old so no need to try and kill it. I bet your Dad really appreciated the help, that's tough work wheeling concrete around the place! I would be lost without all the help my girls do - they are pretty handy with tools now.

I used JB weld on pitting on Suburban rims. Sanded them in a lathe with sand paper wrapped around a board.

Organized chaos. Momma’s out of town so I don’t sleep much anyway. I’m playing man vs. machine. I gave the machine the super bad wheel. This second one wasn’t terrible. I’m starting to get quite a bit of shiny steel on the inside of the wheel. I checked the e-tank a few minutes ago and I can already flake the beige paint off with the SKIN of my finger. Unreal.

Nice. I have to ask though, how long is that coil wire?

Well, I just couldn’t leave well enough alone. I took the air out of the tube from probably the late 70’s, and saw all the rust buildup. I have to start fresh in the rear! I believe I have 12 days by the way. 11 I guess. We have our Heritage Days Parade and the Senior is scheduled to be representing! At least I can use the tire machine for this size! Funny thing… “wide 5” race car wheels are the same bolt pattern as a Model A!

I love this. The Firestone stamp is awesome! The little dude or whatever the sign is at the end is pretty cool too!

One wheel complete! Tomorrow if the sun’s out, I’ll degrease ‘em, rinse ‘em, dry ‘em, and start with the primer!

In the meantime, I’m giving the chassis a Greasy Pete job with Lucas Red n Tacky! AND wiping the excess

Stopped by the hardware store today and picked up a 100" belt and a 99" belt. These fell between the too short and the too long belts I had in stock. Turns out that the 99" belt is about right for my adaptation of a 42" SD deck to my C-195. Took a couple of tries to get the correct PTO to deck belt routing figured out. I fired it up and engaged the PTO to see if there were any awful noises or explosions. Everything worked as it should. I then proceeded to mow the neighbor's empty lot next to me. The only major issue I had was running out of gas. Yes, I forgot to pull the PTO lever to the off position when I went to get the gas can. This is the first time I've had the opportunity to run the KT19 at full throttle for an extended time. It has a rather nice exhaust note, though replacing the rusted muffler will be a good idea. I am going to have to space the gage wheels on the deck about an inch on each side for them to clear the back wheels to allow the deck to be raised to the full up transport position. I'll guess this is why the smallest deck on the C-195 was a 48".

I forgot to mention that transmission I worked on was in a Craftsman mower with a 20hp B&S opposed twin engine. I think the Craftsman folks were a bit optimistic about how long that transmission would last in that application.

I got the weight part covered, not quite to 1400 lbs though !! I have gotten thru eight inches of wet snow. Anymore than that I may get out the big tractor/loader. I am getting up in years and I may need a hydraulic lift to pick up the blade. 👍👍👍

Well, compared to the transmissions on the L-157 and the 416-8... the Peerless is a complete PITA to get into gear... double clutching... etc. On the other hand... I always physically check with my eyeballs to verify that the belt has stopped BEFORE I put the machine in gear. To me, the extra step of physically LOOKING at the belt is simply precautionary... (I don't want to be opening up transmissions very often..) Overall, I think there are MAJOR differences in these transmissions, as @ebinmaine noted. They feel and act TOTALLY different from one another. I will never use my Peerless transmission for any pulling duties, except to pull my behind down the drag-strip driveway at hellish rpms... The L-157 has the blade on it, so it actually rarely gets used, unless I have grading duties or a tree goes down and I need to push something out of the way. Otherwise, the 416-8 now pulls all the heavy loads around here... large trees, loads of gravel, etc... I guess the bottom line of this thread is... the quality of the 8 speed transmission is unparalleled. You can literally feel the quality and the amount it goes into gear... it is a very hearty transmission. Don

Yes. A smaller pulley = less surface area of the belt gripping the pulley.

We are in the country with just a few neighbors. They will watch for him

Beautiful dog, beautiful tractor, beautiful trailer! Thanks for sharing @Dan.gerous Don

Got the C-81 with finger/sickle bar on and cut back the nettles and briars along the side of the wood, at the top of the lane. Finished off with a slasher and hauled the rubbish away with the Sears GT16 and trailer. I can now mow the verge with out having to hang off the side of the C-125, trying to not get stung and scratched.

I put the tractor up against the pole three more times and it spun both tires two times and one tire once. I was asking about it because I am turning this into a snow fighter because of the hydro lift. LSD or not , I am going to put a blade on it. Put a new o ring in the fitting and that stopped the leak , but now it is leaking out of the little rubber dohicky at the end of the cylinder where the shaft goes thru. Time to order from Lowell. Thanks for the info pfrederi !!

Non stock engine and engine pulley. Belt sitting deep in that pulley and bottoming out. Not enough oomph ( mechanical advantage ) from the engine end to move the tractor up hills. Case closed .

Is this the Clutch Pivot Arm you are after...---SAMPLE PICTURE--- I have 2 or 3 of them in my shop.. $22.50...shipped to USA zips.

This right front spindle has quite a bit of vertical travel and could use some shims. I popped the roll pin out, gave it some juice and a few backed up whacks in either direction to shock the arm loose. I’ll revisit this in a bit.

These wheels have been rotated 180 degrees in the water after sitting all night. Lots of rust still evident on the insides, where the paint is all bubbled on the outsides.