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The most odd thing I've found on a that I bought? I would have to say this guy. @WHX?? Or maybe the rear fenders/bucket holders on my D160?

Sheet metal screw and some epoxy have fixed more than one leaky gas tank.

Here's one that a lot of us will get a kick out of.... Over this past weekend I picked up a couple tractors. One of them, a 1973 10 HP, 8-speed, was for @OldWorkHorse Steve. He got to poking around on it this morning and discovered the fastener in the interesting place that is pictured below.... For those of you unfamiliar with the early to mid 70s horses. Yes, that's the gas tank. Absolutely baffling to the both of us why they would be a screw put into the gas tank....

Picked it up for a song and you don't wanna hear me sing. Tecky with a S/G and popped right off with some sniffing salts and fresh gas. Plan is to flip it at the Portage show which by coincidence Sears is the feature.

This shipping crate repurposed as backing in an old cabinet.

I like going topless .....how's that for a visual Sylvia......

Rylee helped me get a couple down from the rack tonight, before our 2 mile trip to town for fireworks… she needed a little traction aide to get me rolling on the not driving forward or backward fork truck.

Rylee tugging and pulling on Chloe the 953! toolbox full of steel and lead, weights on the seat and 10” plow, and her spinning tires!

Had to share " Forsaken " with you all. From abandoned in the woods, to yard art, to running and driving again.

Finished the C-120's fuel pump, made a good rebuilt pump out of parts from 2 bad ones, new fuel lines, new filter, & new tank grommet. Top belt guide was shot, replaced it with a small Idler pulley, works awesome. Running like new & ready to mow. One of the C-81's got a new shifter boot, her choke cable fixed & a much needed bath. Dropped the mid mount grader blade & returned her to mowing duty with a freshly serviced 36' RD deck & new belts. Now I can focus more on my friends C-160

Done… very happy with the wheel color

@WHX?? had his prize Horse chained to a tree by the hitch. Had to make a mad dash to take a pee at 2AM and forgot it was chained down. After about 30 attempts to get to the pee house Uncle Jim didn't have to go anymore. @Achto had to cut the chain with a worn hack saw blade out of Jim's glove box. Hitch slowly made its way back east. Someone sneaked it into one of Ed Dog's @Ed Kennell buckets. @Sparky got distracted by Howard ,bought the bucket because it had an old Potato Chip bag in it, found the hitch and snuck it into Docs pile.

Hi all, continuing from my other post "1257 Proud." I picked up a dump cart today, there is no ID tag as its missing. But its in solid shape, needs work as they always do after years of use and abuse. Been looking for one since i stupidly didn't take the one my dad had when he moved, as I just took the tractor. Anyways, I'm gonna say its from the late 1960s. Guy used it with his lawn ranger which @pfrederi mentioned that looked like a 1968. Needs a good scrubbing, cleaning, tires, and greasing along with new paint to match my tractor and other attachments. I saved the tires on my WH they're original, but the tires on the cart are so bad I can't save them, which is too bad.

So this joined the pasture today

A Haiku Ugga Dugga du Ugga dugga ugga du Ugga dugga du?

One of the blade design engineers had an uncle in the nearby washer manufacturing plant that had the WH account… or, The parts brochure was outsourced to China and well…

@Sparky Thanks for the nuts and bolts and flat stock off your lawn sweeper headed to dump... It motivated me to put the Little Tykes trailer together for my Grand Nephew to ride around in behind my brother in laws Wheelie Horse Tony 20220705_132839.mp4

There's yer kicker right there. The Automatics take a 7478.

Eric... your mind is going stale... I was thinking something more like this... Don

I hope I'm not going to get too technical here for you but obviously it depends on the size and strength of the Ugga Dugga Machine. The numeric count of Ugga Duggas has a direct and often exponential effect based on many many factors. Not the least of which is the fractional or percentage-based difference of the volume and density of the Ugga Dugga-er and the Ugga Dugga-ee. Rough estimate? The first number that comes to mind is 374.

we made it work for a couple last night! The WHRat and Poppy are down!

An aftermarket rebuild kit for a Kohler K301 can be had for under $150. Last engine that I did, the machining was around $150 ( .010 under on the crank, .020 over on the cylinder) Disassemble the engine and measure the cylinder bore and the crank diameter before ordering parts.

4 and a half days, no drips on the floor. That feels good!

We were at the Mx track for the weekend at boy’s race. Good times

It must of been on one of the Briggs powered tractors and the guy side stepped the clutch. You gotta be careful, the Briggs powered stuff is stout! That's why all of @Wild Bill in VA Tecumseh powered stuff has perfectly straight hitch pins ! Lol

That makes sense. I was going to go with the rare factory hitch camber option, but no one would believe that.

Fit the snow blade to the E 141… Perfect fit with the rear battery tray mounts… Took it off for remainder of summer train pulling duties…

Here's a complete one for reference.

Yikes... not more pernagraphy like Kevin... Don

Tires burned off the rims... (attempted... anyway...)... Freakin' ludicrous... EDIT... when I say 'burned off...' ...I don't mean via horsepower... I mean via brush-fire... Don

You leave that anti seize well enough away from that adjuster! And @Achto!

AND if you go that route, the machine shop needs the oversized piston before they bore the block. All machined parts have production tolerances - to get the proper piston skirt clearance, they may only need to bore the block .017 or .018 to prevent piston "slap".

The placement of the shifter pattern / serial number is correct for a 502 - different location for the 552 and 702. I also am building a 502, and did several modifications to remove excess play in the steering. Machined the lower block, axle spindle bores, pivot bore, and lower steering shaft for bronze bushings. Did the same on the flat bar tie rod plate. Also added grooves in the lower shaft to hold grease. Had one spindle with excessive wear, that was TIG welded to build it up and hand filed to shape. Got rid of the wheel bushings, switched to the later style flanged ball bearings. Tapped the ends of the spindles for a retaining bolt - the inner races are now stationary, no longer spinning on the shaft. Pictures would be helpful - best of luck going forward. Bill

New clutch pulley on 314 this afternoon. The whirr was turning into a roar. I've been oiling it, but there's only so much you can do once the seal is worn out. Wish they'd put more grease in or something, but what the heck it's 28 years old. And while I had it apart, found that the drive belt has been riding on the wrong side of the bottom guard for who-knows-how-long. Don't know how that even happens, nice and shiny, but the belt still looks fine so back together the way it's supposed to be. Hosed it down and rode around the yard to dry off, quieter now, ready for next job.

Yesterday me and my dad and his friend wired up the Flashing lights I put on my C-145. We had to make custom brackets so we could use the old holes in the fender. My dad didn’t want to drill new holes in the fender. All the wires are hidden except the ones that come from the lights those go under the fender but the rest is hidden. We made a custom light switch panel for the two switches that control the rear lights. They’re super bright and they are only using like 4 amps to flash. These lights are Whelen ION lights. I’ll use them mostly when I’m snowblowing and backing up in the dark. (And yes i know I still have tire chains on, it gives me traction when I’m in the garden) IMG_0552.MOV IMG_0539.MOV

I'm a hopeless pedant. I want to know WHY there are different arrangements of thick vs. thin washers above or below the blade. Maybe nobody else cares. Maybe nobody knows. Maybe somebody knows but they won't tell because it's 'tribal' knowledge. But... 1980 hard copy part manual I have: 36" SD uses either a thin on top and thick on the bottom, but 'alternate construction' shows thick / thick. 42" uses thick / thick. 48" uses thick / thick. 89 42" RD IPL is confusing... I believe this IPL also covers other models but it doesn't tell you WHICH washer goes with WHICH model the xxx257 is the .030 THIN washer on the BOTTOM, I don't know if the xxx015 is thick or thin. (can anyone tell me?) I think that the 015 washer is THICK. YES? IS IT? the xxx258 is the THICK washer, on TOP. So they're saying that SOME use thin on the BOTTOM... and some use THIN. 91-92 42" RD uses thin / thick 95-98 42" RD uses thin / thick Then, there's the SPINDLE CHART that shows that MOST of the spindles use THIN on top and THICK on the bottom... but this one shows the reverse for the 48" deck. That Z chart is the most confusing to me. This one is the small hex, UNkeyed metric bearing spindle assembly. WHY is the washer order reversed between the 42" and 48" deck? This one shows THICK top and bottom with the noted exceptions that use the xxx015 washer which I don't know if it's thick or thin. It appears from web searching that the xxx015 is the THICK washer and also part number 3526-28 superceded number. Is this correct? Two thick I'm sure if I looked hard enough I could find more inconsistencies. It appears to me that the OLDER, KEYED, with LARGE HEX spindles used THICK on TOP and BOTTOM. Is this the 'rule' ? What's the bottom line? Does anyone know the reasoning behind the thick / thin blade washers? I would like to know WHY they kept changing their minds. What happens if one uses the WRONG (according to the documentation) washer setup? Would it even make a bit of difference? What would be the consequences?

How to keep turkeys in suspense...

Not nice Mr. @wallfish... Ill see you at Zagray at Noon on the playground!!

I'm 99% certain that the 920015 is a thick washer. I believe this is a photo of the actual part, and the superceded number.

3 Ugga Dugga is the highest torque spec I've encountered.

Anything close to precise would be hard to compute since the geometry of the certainly broken transaxle casing is unknown. So assume the ¾" bar of mild steel was held at two points 6" apart and all the opposing force was directly in the middle of the bar and the "yield" (i.e. how far it bent) is about ½". We'll also not try to figure what it took to twist the two arms of the drawbar. Yeah, lots of "assuming"! Using one of my online calculators, it looks like 40,000 lbs or more.

I have a feeling that many of these washers were added during "beta" testing, and became permanent additions afterward on production runs. Wheel Horse was notorious for using a multitude of parts across different products. I'm guessing to save money- the castings for spindles were bought by the thousands, so minimal adjustments had to come afterwards. Blade height and pulley height as well is probably a result of the same issue.

Thirty third line down, 17th digit… you missed a decimal…

Scary close for sure

Wow thank you everyone for the help and welcome. I will post more pics later today. I appreciate your time!

That is pretty cool. I always look to reuse stuff like that in things that I make such as backs or bottoms of drawers etc. It always draws a smile when found.

My 854 - once I pulled it apart, I found an original INDAK ignition key along side the bottom of the shifter boot, sitting on top of the Unidrive. Now I have a spare...

@Pullstart like your work , while you are in the area , notice that drive belt IDLER PULLEY ? looks like those rubber side shields , could be carefully removed , wipe out and do a lucas refill , also related linkage areas , often when in an exposed area , just thinking , how can I make this better ? could be wiring , linkage , pulley , ground ? if nothing else get some lubrication on those rusty areas , greasy , pete

1054…with its freshly painted wheels

I've recently straightened a bent reinforcing rod on the lower edge of 42" RD deck using a method I learned from a repair shop machinist. I put some significant tension on the bent part in the direction I want it to move using big "C" clamps (on the front attach-a-matic I'd use two clamps near the center of the rod to a plate straddling the bottom). Then I give a couple three or four very-not-gentle whacks directly on the bent part with a 4 lb sledge. As the part "unbends" continue tightening the clamps lest they loosen and fall on your foot. Where there isn't space between the clamps to hit, I use a fat piece of bar stock with a bit of a notch ground across the face to distribute the force on the target piece. Continue the whack-tighten sequence until the bend is just past straight (maybe a 32nd inch for a short thick rod like this). When the clamps are removed it'll spring back to straight.