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I swear one drop of that stuff can paint a 10 x 10 room! And I always touched my face.....tin man look!

Ok I dove in. I really didn't need this tractor as a have a 310-08 but its a sickness I have with Wheel Horse. I spotted it driving home on side of the road. The deck is immaculate. 3 blade. Just serviced, oils changed. 2 new front tires. Kohler which I love. Rear discharge with mulching blades. Wheel weights if I decide to plow or snow blow with it. On top of ALL that he threw in a wood chipper in immaculate condition it that I dont really need and can sell it. I think I did decent. I'll spruce it up a bit more as a project and maybe sell it later. I'm such a cave man with electronics I'll have to have my daughter show me how to post a picture to this thread lol.

Since I am a stud I use the double nut method....

My set screws came out OK. but the one that was not on the key left a raised pimple on the axle that added friction the complete length of the hub bore. Next challange.. while I wait for the new seal, I thought I should remove the seat and fender and clean the hydro and change the oil and filter. So the drain pipe plug is right over the plow frame rod. Had to drop the frame to get to the plug, then could not get a 1/4" allen wrench in the plug that was damaged and partially closed. I finally ground a small taper on an old 1/4" drive and was able to drive it in the plug and open the hole. Then drove in a good hardened 1/4" allen and the plug came out OK.

Yours are LH metric! And strip easily!

My yard art.

E141 in excellent condition used one season then was traded in for a gas tractor has three one year old now batteries and 36 volt charger $1000

Not really, just the wrong application. you can split hairs and might stay tight, but we only used that stuff on jobs that had to come apart on a frequent basis. I seen it many times to much concerned about getting it apart. We talk about adding a second set screw Ask what does that do? You honestly can believe that little cup point on the set screw works on its own. Simply, the second screw adds tension to the shaft /bore and key areas to increase holding ability. (reduces / precludes movement) makes a more solid installation. adding a lube to the application will only reduce the sets effectiveness. On machines not used hard or not used much, no problem. On a machine that’s working hard a lot. Not good. This a good conversation.

especially with Captain in him…

Hy runs too. Reasonably priced and boy do they grab. I get alot of compliments on the plow field on how well they do. There is only a 1/2 belt spinning them which gives out long before they lose grip. Undouble the best tractor tires I ever bought. I should load them

The hub had 36 years to brown weld fast to the axle. The leak just started a few weeks ago and it may have soaked loose in the next 36 years, but 78yos don't plan that far ahead.

Hi-Run 23x10.50-12 ags on rear… Hi-Run 16x6.50-8 straight ribs on front…

Why would you want me removed?

Just joined the group and wanted to say hello! I just purchased my first Wheel Horse, a WH GT1800 with damaged engine and this forum looks like it will assist me in repair. I pick it up in a few days and anxious to start on it, I am undecided on the engine situation. I may convert to electric or repair/replace engine. I have done vehicle conversations but never a tractor.

Has anyone contacted the Grease Police 🚓 about this subject? Whether to grease or not that's the question

A running Wheel Horse with a decent deck is worth $695 all day long

" Ralph" has taken up residence on the Burb whilst Homer keeps a watchful eye.

Are you talking the flywheel nut? You need an impact gun.

You are looking at the top side. When it's installed, the terminals will be clear of every thing.

As you have noticed .... Brian Miller has lost all his reputation ------ However, there is a ton of information on the site (last I cked) that can come in handy. I have used tidbits of info off there many times. Dang shame, at one time he was the go to guy.....

This made me nose-exhale at my screen pretty significantly

Yepp. Me too. Pah'tic'ler the zookeenes. I grew up. Nope. I got larger than the size I was born at. ... About an hour south of Keene NH. That's a college town so it's also a zoo. That word really is a perfect descriptor.

Ordered a train horn and three monitors for the batteries… will be here Thursday. Battery night. Went with Costco Interstate marine. For what I will be using it for I think they will be more than adequate… we’ll see. Thinking of keeping the best of the existing batteries for exclusive use for lights, horn and other accessories…

I woke my C-141 from its long winters nap. After checking the air in the tires and the fluids, I promptly put it to work pulling the lawn sweeper around. This tractor runs sooo sweet. You would never know that the engine was locked up tight when I got it 3yrs ago. After soaking the cylinder with ATF for a week it turned over easily by hand. Followed up by the usual "It's been sitting for ??" clean up and tune up, It's been running great ever since. Doesn't even smoke on start up.

@Ed Kennell, now that you have a good mark on the axle where the set screw hits, grind or file a flat on it to prevent the upset metal from being a problem next time. I use a rust inhibitor on the axles, usually my go to is Rustlick 631. I'm not that opposed to Never Seez products but I have seen them turn into an unrecognizable dry sludge over time. The reason for the second set screw is that the axle to hub is a slip fit, meaning that the hole is slightly larger than the shaft. With one set screw the points of contact will be the set screw and the opposite side of the hub. With a second set screw those screws and the side opposite the mid point of the screws. Think of a three legged stool versus on with only two legs and you will begin to understand the benefit of the three point contact. The oil drain plug in the transmission often stands proud of the housing. I grind down the plug a small amount and tap the hole deeper to get it at least flush. Some implements do hit the plug,even if flush, so it is a good idea to cut some clearance in the implement.

Mainers... jeeze... can't spell ! Every body knowz that it's "youze guyz" ! Sorry, can't help with an answer. @ebinmaine

Anti-seize has no lubrication qualities… it is a rust/ corrosion inhibitor only… no need to call the law

This is very true. For instance... You can "grease" your hair for a very particular look reminiscent of days gone by... But... Use anti-seize and the effect is completely different.

Oil, grease, anti-seize ect have their place. but not everyplace! We used to have to do PM's on big electric panels. Some of them took 2 guys just to get the covers on and off. They were done at night so the 2nd and 3rd shift guys would do them. One of them insisted on putting antiseize on the funky screw clamps the covers had. Then of course when we would have to take that panel off to make a repair, Antiseize all over everything!

As you are aware you can’t post links to the ad…but if you can save the pictures in the ad you can post one or more of the pictures here and that would give us a better idea on value. If it’s nice and has a nice deck then $650 is fair.

That's one of the problems with that 2nd screw. Raises the metal around it and binds things up if you have to take it apart again. But a tight hub is better than a hub that won't stay tight.

But I am a purist with the weaker star hubs... ... Gotta side with Dan on this one Joe. When I had to re-open up a 5060 tranny that I restoed I had to re-pull hubs that I antied and were still a bugger to get off. We do always add second set screws and practice the religion of checking them regular for tightness & full length keys for the plow mules.

10 mpg with that behemoth wouldn't be so bad. At least with the crew cab and the storage bay in the camper you can take everything and everybody in a single load. For a family of four that would be like each one of them driving a car that gets 40 mpg By complete chance, I think I was pretty close on my guess that it would take about 100 actual HP to drag that thing down the road at highway speed. Ought to be able to pull it with a Chevy Sonic on flat ground if you can figure out a way to connect the hitch. Perhaps the picture below will give you some ideas. But those hills are gonna get you. Steve

If you wanted to mount it terminal side down, just put a couple of washers under the bolt holes to space it up.

Someone please put the cheese curds out of reach… Please…

Carb # 4705364. #60 in the throttle bore Info from Brian miller said the older walbros have the counterbore and the newer ones don’t Won’t know whether mine is old or new till I take it off This 414 is an 89 model hopefully that is an old one I will call Lincoln if it doesn’t have the counterbore

And remover! Complete set:

I have converted bikes, a four wheeler, a few cars, and battery conversion on electric motor cycles . I did a john deere during Covid out of boredom but without deck. With gas going up I figured why not do a yard machine.

Happy to help, anytime.

I agree with @tunahead72. MIller is not a person I'd recommend for multiple reasons. Public Record indicates he's done some things that ... Aren't good. If you want a good used carb CALL Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA. Don't use the website. Use the phone. He's VERY busy much of the time and the website isn't updated anywhere near as fast as his inventory changes. If you want to rebuild your own carb: Take it off and check to see if it has the place for washers. IIFF the bottom inside bore is good I can rebuild them here in Maine.

About Brian Miller, you should be aware: 0. Not recommended suppliers - RedSquare Links - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum Also, last I checked his web site is not secure. I'm not an expert by any means, but I would be surprised if your carb didn't have a counterbore for the bushings. I repaired the throttle shaft on the (replacement) Walbro on my '86 310-8 last year, and was able to use the same standard flat bronze bushings that everybody has been recommending here (Hillman 58087, available at Ace Hardware for $1.49 a piece these days). Can you find any numbers or other markings on your carb? That might help us figure out exactly which carb you have, and what might work.

I don’t need a “stud remover”… if someone asks me to leave, I’ll go…

Sadly, so could I.

Welcome "Horse Whisperer" !

Yup a stud remover.

Cleaned up some old wheels today and was pleasantly surprised at the results... These are from my 1974 C100 project. I'm wanting it to be as original as it can be and keep the old vintage look. I wasn't wanting to repaint anything but I do not like the look of rust, and especially on WHITE! So was skeptical on how these wheels would turn out. Surprisingly the rust came off and left original paint mostly there. It'll be the perfect original aged but not crappy look I'm going for. So all I did was use 220 grit sandpaper soaked in water and dawn dish soap and wet sanded them down. Only pressing as hard as needed to get the rust coming off. Not hard enough to go through the paint. Anyways... I like how they turned out. Here's a before and after of one of them

Was on 1969 700