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Another load of horses.

Not so much "In the Shed" but ON the Shed. Chainsaw carving watches over the front sliding doors

Every once in awhile I get a REALLY odd thing in my shed....

Anyone got funky stuff that don’t make sense in their barn? Here’s an ARCA race car. I think it is complete, minus the transmission. At the time of racing, it was sponsored by a company who is no longer in business. The owner (of the sponsor company) is in prison for cocaine running, embezzlement (against his own company!?!?) and who knows what else.

Does this count?

I think this qualifies.. it's a Rasant Wanze hillside mower. Mainly used in vinyards to mow inbetween the vine rows. It steers like a tank and is powered by a 2-cilinder inline petrol engine. It has front and rear pto and was equipped with a front sickle-bar mower. Currently it doesn't run, all the tires are flat and the rust has set in. This will be a 'getting it running and assessing the damage before restoring' type of project.

Gosh, bad axle bearings, Have had my good share of them. Makes sure nothing of the bearing is still in the tranny, good practice is to open the diff, just to make sure it's empty.

My goodness. That looks more like some weapon of war than a garden tool

Can’t beat it for improving the grazing yield. My aerator doesn’t really need any extra weight🏋️‍ to get it to sink it’s teeth in.

Hooked up the lawn airator that I purchased on the cheap a couple weeks ago. Ran it around the back 40 a few times.I was skeptical,it did the job.The grass and weeds should appreciate it,the worms,not so much.

First 3 cabs I got at auction Bower and BCA bearing and seal: Much sought after Echlin Visumatics: My only new and free cabinet. Balkamp dealer cab. Store bought the cab under promotion filled with hose clamps and other goodies. put the parts into store inventory. Free cab!

Maybe if you ignore it long enough it'll get covered with dust like @Pullstart's race car?

A couple of years ago I was going through some boxes in my shed, found an Ice Tea cd .

How’s this for odd ?… seriously thinking about putting it on a tractor or my 1976 Harley… IMG_0690.MOV

Skeeeooore ... The Squonky @squonk gonna like this one.... Storage cabs falling out the sky these days!

There’s my cup! I’ve been looking for that!

You asked for it but this might make some guys Oh quit yer bawling I fixed it!

Looks like there is an opportunity to gain some real estate in your shed for some more 's.

When I visited I noticed a couple very nice, complete units and asked about them. Lincoln told me that they do keep the best ones whole, sometimes doing minor repairs, and sell them as runners. He also has decks, blades, and soil plows. If you have a particular model/setup in mind, you should let him know!

Your camera takes really good pics Newbie! I thought he was trying to outfit a B series? I have no idea what a B needs for a rockshaft & lift gear. A quick vid on plowing by @PeacemakerJack

Or pop machines or maybe another drill press!

That aerator “rocks.”

Here’s proof TonyToro Jr. really has a project and working in it. 😂👍 I’ve seen he hasn’t updated and I don’t want to spoil his surprise to the club. We worked on it almost every night since this post started.

Finally got around to the deck for my 653. Pretty rough, obviously didn't prescribe to Peter Lena method of lubrication and preservation. Or any method by looks of it. Well on to welding, patching, fabricating, cleaning, painting, etc. etc., oh yes and lubricating with sticky grease. Spindles and gears seem okay. Tube on frame is broken where lock ring groove slot was cut so i have a plan for that update. Going to use straight shaft and set screw collars for retention. I have a lathe and could cut the grooves, but I think this would be stronger. May get another ten years or so outa this thing after all.

Quick recap and summary of Post #40 in this thread... The exhaust port had badly rusted and would not accept a pipe nipple. An attempt to clean it up with a Dremel (wire wheel and light grind) confirmed the damage. I asked for and got several useful suggestions--thanks again! I chose to go with creating new threads with JB Weld and a 1" NPT tap. Spoiler alert: it worked. How do you spell relief? T H R E A D S Long story, with pictures. I couldn't find a tap to borrow (everyone had dies, no one had taps) so I bought one. Started with this. Barely visible threading on sides and top only. Stuffed a rag in the back of the port, lubed the tap and port and started in. Was able to catch the beginning of the original thread to keep it aligned. Slowly ran the tap in ½ turn then back ¼ turn repeat until it hit the seat at the back of the port (I'd also measured the depth beforehand and penciled a line on the tap as a double test). It took very little effort so I knew it wasn't cutting much metal. Yielded this. some faint threading that let the muffler nipple go all the way in, but with gaps around it and not a secure feeling that it'd stand up to regular use. So on to Part Two of Plan A. I carefully Dremel wire brushed the inside of the port then applied a layer of Steel JB Weld around the inside. Allowed it to cure for 36 hours. (Edit: This epoxy is rated to 600º which I felt was adequate. "Extreme Heat" ceramic-impregnated epoxies can handle much higher heat but are more brittle. Choose which suits your preferences.) As you can see, I went a little overboard with the JB weld. I couldn't even start the tap so I started slowly grinding away the epoxy to enlarge the hole at the front edge until I was able to start the tap. I thought briefly about drilling it out but I don't have a 1-5/32" drill and I doubted I could keep it properly centered even if I did. I used a caliper check the diameter and the Mark 1 Eyeball (corrected), to judge the circularity. BTW, I discovered that grinding JB Weld is a very smelly job--like dead fish smelly . Eventually I was able to start the tap, get it in a half turn or so and then feel very strong resistance. I could see that the tap was butting up against the ridge of epoxy. That led to iterations of grind, vacuum, tap for a half turn or so, vacuum, repeat. But I was making progress and I could see threads. The last thing I wanted to do was blow out those threads by putting too much torque on the tap. Finally, I reached the pencil marks on the tap indicating I was in as far as I could safely drive the tap (I didn't have a blind-style tap--the first parts of the cutters taper in). I backed it out nearly three full turns, vacuumed the dust and... I had threads! Testing the muffler, I got to almost three turns before getting stopped with just hand pressure. It is strong, it looks like a good seal all around, and the epoxy is rated to temps well above what this K181 will throw off. Thankfully did not have to go to Plan B, drilling the block to accept a flange. I'm calling it a win.

Heres the freebie toolbox as well. It was next in line for the crusher. Still had goodies inside as well. 🤯

Not to go off topic I haven't used a gas weed Wacker at my place in I guess 5 or 6 years now. Best thing ever, 5.5 acres. Battery in and pull the trigger. I junked/got rid of my gas ones.

Along with the batteries in a year or two after they don’t maintain them properly and toss them… And no I’m not anti-battery. Going on second season with Dewalt’s 20 volt line - lawn mower, weed whip, chain saw, hedge trimmer… batteries fit all my power tools. Excellent stuff. But they are not “green”… plastic, toxic innards, electricity used to charge them and 95% will end up in the landfill at end of life… not to mention the point you make… millions of gas powered mowers etc. going into landfills or for scrap… not “green”… Ok. Off …

We live in the #1 throw away state. I am even picky with what brand lawn equipment to pickup. It's going to interesting with all these greenies buying all the battery equipment and tossing out the gas stuff

The PO is my father in-law…

This is from 2011...Brrly1's #5007 tranns.

You'll want to plan ahead for this job and give yourself the space and time to understand each step before starting. You'll need room to work, and it'll be a lot easier if you have a bench that can hold the transmission at a comfortable working height with the brake side up and the input pulley side down--some folks use a WorkMate and clamps. Be sure you have good lighting, protection for the inevitable drips and slashes of oil, and a way to keep your tools handy. You already know that the transmissions are heavy so be careful with that too! When you encounter something you don't understand or is confusing (and you will), come back here and ask (bringing pictures, right? ). Someone will know how to get you over the hurdle. EVERYONE HERE was a rookie at this at one time and many of use can still remember it.

That's why you need to get rid of the car. Put it out side and make a chicken coop out of it!

Just turn motor around to change direction, short belt,just let motor hang for tension.

You can find all of your part numbers by down loading the manual for your tractor. Lowell offers complete or partial transmission kits. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/base-kit-4-for-manual-transmission/ The /Toro part number for the axle bearring is 1526/9416. Checking this cross reference sheet the Koyo # is B-1816, Motion industries # is 00090569 The Jungle site has a listing for them. https://www.amazon.com/Koyo-B-1816-Bearing-Complement-Rotational/dp/B007EDV9P6 You could also take the Koyo #B-1816 to your local Napa & they should be able to order them for you. Like stated above, Check out @stevasaurus's tranny video's https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0WxpigBM-CFt3jm0aCxvxw

I call that stuff "I just might need that someday inventory"?

He need the longer rocker shaft for the older C-series.

Here is a rock shaft kit I ordered from Lowell at Wheel Horse Parts and More ( vendor on here in Classified) for my 1984 Work Horse and a few pics of me installing it… Hope this helps… Maybe someone else can chime in about if the same would work on your tractor …

...and where does one purchase one of those? Asking for a friend...

@A-Z Tractor just the thought of those horses going on to another life is a great thing , keep them going ! pete

Potato chip convention? Flashlight show ?

Napa 5L820W Tractor Supply 5L820

Assuming you have the #5060 10 pinion Limited Slip transmission in your 1267, this is the thread with videos for that transmission. The gasket for the trans is WH #3912. The gasket is the same number for your 857 horse transmission.

If I was in your shoes ,I would also be thinking outside the box , my first thought would be as yours to build a better mouse trap so to speak , May I suggest to start with something like a floor polisher they can be had local for cheep on face book MP or craigslist , those old floor polishers are made very stout , perhaps you can strip it down and incorporate the vitals it in to a table top, then attach glass or a honed piece or granite for a true flat surface , I can also see making a foot switch from the pull switch handles that already exist for the on off operation of the polisher ,this way you can foot operate on and off leaving both hand free . call me crazy but I can see it working .

"Kinda" rough (?) 😂

I know someone here will have part numbers. They are posted many times over the years. No, a press isn't required. It is helpful, but not absolutely necessary. You can GENTLY drive them in. I've used a socket and a light hammer. Just be careful.

This happened awhile back, just a woodruf key and worn axle and hub, but she is still going today!!