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But if you put a 300 lb bear in there, you may only need 10 gallons?

Sealed a tank for the RE-67. Started two days ago. The instructions said patience and don't rush about 30 times. Might do a product evaluation on the brand I used. So far lookin good.

Spent the day on Sat. getting the body work done on the sheet metal. @ebinmaine and @giddyap were asking questions about body filler so I thought that I would share a tutorial on my process. First and foremost, fiberglass and polyester filler should only be applied over solid bare metal with a good mechanical scratch in it. It does not adhere well to paint or primer. Our victim for this is my rear fender pan. To get a good mechanical scratch I use a grinder with 24grit paper on it, Because I had some spots that were welded on the rear pan, I used a fiberglass reinforced filler first. The fiberglass reinforced filler is very strong and works well to seal any pin holes that may be left behind after welding and grinding. If you are not filling in over welds this step is not necessary. After the filler hardens then it is sanded down to smooth it out. We are not looking for a finished product with this filler. It is sanded down with 36 grit paper. After blowing the part off so that it is dust free, a coat of polyester filler is applied. Again I use 36 grit paper to sand this down after it hardens. With this coat I am looking to get every thing as smooth & strait as possible. If I should notice any minor imperfections after I have sanded the filler down then I will add a light coat of a filler called Icing. Icing is a thin very smooth polyester filler used for fine imperfection. Again make sure the part is dust free before applying filler. Once this filler is sanded down to near perfection with 36 grit then I spray a guide coat of contrasting color over the filler. In this case I used a flat black out of a spray can. After the guide coat dries then I use 80 grit paper on a sanding block to sand the filler until the guide coat is gone. After a few swipes with the 80 grit. The pic below shows how the guide coat allows you to easily see the imperfection and 36 grit scratches that need to be sanded out. After the part has been block sanded with 80grit until the guide coat is gone, then a light block sanding with 180 grit is the final step to make your part ready for primer. 80 grit paper is fine enough for any bare metal before priming. Fender pan strait smooth & ready for primer. Hope to prime next Sat, then wet sand & paint on Sun.

Get a sweepster most of the gravel is out in the yard some where.. The ground wasn't frozen befero this last storm and even with the plow skids down I still got a lot of stones in the yard. Sweepster will be working soon...

It might be and I’m sure it is but so far I’ve been able to push anything that mother nature has thrown at it. The white powdery stuff is simple of course. The heavy wet stuff we get around here because of the warm temperatures is probably more difficult to push but it also comes off cleanly on the concrete as in the video below. That helps with traction. I’ve just never needed much horsepower pushing up my steep concrete driveway. It’s only a 42 inch blade so that helps as well. The 54 inch on my dad‘s C-161 would be a better test I guess but with 16 hp it doesn’t notice it on there either. IMG_5963.MOV

Also surveying the winter damage to the snowblower. Knew I had some, so the parts came in this afternoon. Pulled it apart and installed one of the new bearings. Didn't tighten everything down because I had a couple of questions. Do these need lubrication, and if so, what kind. The bearing looks like Oilite, which shouldn't, but interested to hear what others have to say. The old one looks like it was packed with dried, dirty grease. I didn't tackle the other side. It's not as bad. I only ordered one set of housings, so I hope the other one is better. Probably could have cleaned and reused these, but.... Also, I didn't take the plug out of the worm gear housing to check fluid level, but plan to. If it's low, what lube should I use? My other tractor snowblower is another brand, and it came with abad seal and spun bearing in that (out of production) housing that had ruined the housing. I was able to find another assembly on the auction site and it was perfect. I pulled it apart to inspect and put it together. Decided to use the Mfr's recommended lube, Lubriplate GR132 Lithium grease. Seemed like an odd choice to me but I went with it. I would've thought SAE 75-90 gear oil or similar. Anyone know what Toro/Wheelhorse recommends off the top of their head? BTW it's a 79361 two stage. I don't know the year off the top of my head

halving a bare paved surface to work on makes a big difference. I have mostly gravel /dirt that is usually frozen and has a packed snow ice coating. Chains are mandatory. Also with over 1200 feet to plow i go flat out 7 mph speed does take horsepower.

Just as some background on the relationship between RedSquare and WHCC, here's a thread pinned at the top of this section of the forum. Read the WHOLE thing to get a clear picture of how things work at the show, and please make sure to sign up and/or pay your WHCC dues at the show: Updated! WHCC and RedSquare - Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

I was lucky. Before my Dad passed away he had ordered a stockpile of parts. This was 33 years ago. When I rescued the tractor I found it all. From gaskets, carb, tie rods, belts for tiller, bolts, lift cables, points and condenser, 12 air filters, 12 fuel filters. Can't have enough filters. All from Wheel Horse. Also both foot rests. Why he ordered the foot rests is a mystery because the originals were rust and damage free other than the surface rust from sitting in the elements. When he was alive the tractor never was stored outside.

On a serious note… we as in RedSquare members aren’t the governing body… we are guests to the WHCC’s show and I’d like to respect the fact that they allow our “presence” as a club. This isn’t an us vs. them post… just a respectful reminder that I’m glad to attend their show

I have a few. Need to take new ones with all the attachments finished.

I made this today. Still need to paint it. Hooks in the front tach-o-matic for towing a non running horse.

Well I cancelled my hotel room. Just not going to happen this year. To much going on in the span of summer. HOWEVER, if all goes right, I’ll be ordering one of these next week. A 20’x40’ pole shed that will sit right next to the container. Finally have a semi-solid game plan for a workspace. It was a hard decision

Lol ... didn't that happen last year Kev? We got there early and started cracking beers while waiting???

Thursday set up is by far the best day to be there. @stevasaurus told me that my rookie year and he is right. Don't know if I'll make it yet due to diesel prices but I told @Achto to get some vacation and if we don't go we'll do some fishing. Am I right about needing to be a WHCC member to sell parts or does that just apply to the horse trading area?

Day to day here also. One day wet one dry half fluffy. I just take a little less of a swipe when it is heavy.

You're going off roading. You do not have stock sized pullies. A 70" belt may not be the correct length. Are your pullies the same width? The same profile? Also The used transmission may have worn hubs /axle keyways. The load you're putting on it may be enough to make them slip. How about some pictures so we can see your pulley belt set up?

Some spacers / washers between hub and plate may have helped prevent the hub from cracking. Enough to compensate for the rim center support. ???

Flange/Bearing puller with some added steel plate. D200 hubs are very difficult to remove and the flange will easily break as the hub is quite long...

Holy crap Dan I'd had bondo in my crack at at the first pic and been bound up for a month of Sundays! Remember guys this is just under the seat that might not never be seen. Now you know how particular he is. Got a 701 hood ready for the same treatment if yer up for Dan. Pays lousy but bennies are good!

Our 312-H needed new tires, so it got some. V-61's for the front and Deestone Ags for the rear. Filled the fronts with fluid so far. Will fill the rears later.

And with that I'm gonna call it done Scuffed it, buffed it, detailed it, and stickered it. I can honestly say that the purchase of the tractor and the ensuing restoration is what has led me back to spending time with Horses and to being a vendor here on Red Square. It all started with a different way home from work, this tractor sitting along the road with a for sale sign on it , and my dad telling me "I know where there's a bunch of NOS parts and hubcaps to fit that" and here we are.

Ed you nailed it, EB can call this "Project Archimedes"

So the belt that was to short was a 82" D&D belt off Amazon. This belt is from TSC and its a Huskee Blue Kevlar. Guess they run different. Anyhoo, It drives ok now, just got to idle it down when taking off in 3rd gear.

On one side. I have a 12’ roll up door to put in the side of the container next to the barn. A 12’ x40’ awning will run off the other side of the barn.

For several years we had a two person hot tub. Nice to soak. Used salt water and a salt water chlorinator. It was not to bad on up keep and power. It was outside.

You just get ready to sell me that Senior on big show Saturday and you’ll have enough diesel money to get home

Try Duckduckgo as search engine instead of the spyware known as google… Noticeable elimination of that nonsense… and it’s free… @stevasaurus… Eric I would look at the deep tubs with walk in door. My Mom suffered from fibromyalgia and soaks definitely helped. She just stuck with her standard tub because well, she was Mom… but not needing to step over that side will be good as age does it’s thing… best wishes.

I can tell you this...I started looking at walk in tub/showers on the net a few years ago. I started getting sales phone calls witrhin minutes from all over the states. They were relentless for weeks. All I did was google the tubs, did not sign up or fill out anything. This is the time of year for "Home Improvement" shows. See if there are some close by and check them out, or shop locally.

Ok Tom @Shynon.... err Ed.... You just made some friends in MN Floyd!

Looking at the rust on that axle I don't think anything would have helped. That is taking a lot of force to pull that hub. Pressing it out the axle would have helped as the hub is a lot stronger in compression and the hub is thicker on the back side.

@Ed Kennell like your idea pile , regularly try out a different approach to a nagging issue . another thing I do , is to replace things while i,m in there . verify function , and make things solidly reliable . spring is definitely on the way , just did a quick aeration spiking trial . the bird swarm that came after that was amazing . keep tying stuff , pete

I believe that snow has a great deal of variations and is very hard to compare from place to place. Just like our horses vary like weight, weight placement ,tires, gearing, operator weight and other differences. Bob

“Uh yow, Red Ryder, this is the cotton mouth In the Psycho-Billy Cadillac come on, huh, this is the cotton mouth And negatory on the cost of this mow-chine there Red Ryder You might say I went right up to the factory And picked it up, it's cheaper that way Uh, what model is it? Well, it's a '49, '50, '51, '52, '53, '54, '55, '56 '57, '58' 59' automobile It's a '60, '61, '62, '63, '64, '65, '66, '67 '68, '69, '70 automobile”

Those lift rods are bad to get bent and hang up. I changed mine to a chain and a couple of clevises. Got the clevises from Wheelhorse parts and More. part no. 105820 clevis $4.99

Is this what it looks like in Cortlandt, New York.

Added a removable front weight ( 33lbs ) to the front of my 520. She's gonna do some work this year.

Ok here's one for you guys ... and it involves a . This was a box that I put in service vans between the seats. It had channels for hanging file folders like a filing cabinet. A clip on the underside of the lid. Was meant to be a mobile desk for work orders and such. All the techs did was fill it full of junk tho. Turned it into a ballast box for the FEL I got from @cschannuth. Wanted to mount it in a fashion to use the suitcases he let go with the tractor but @Achto says do this and use the weights for the front of a plow mule or something. Glad I listen to him and not my wife. Will be filling with concrete leaving 6 inches or so on the top for lifting chains, tools or whatnot.

It actually didn't change the temp in the cab, so it joined the other pile of bad ideas in the junk corner of the barn. The right side collector keeps the cab a toasty 30F higher than outside temp.

Alternating discs of steel and a plastic...

They are a modified walk behind blower chains. I tried the sprocket chain and had one come off and nearly go thru a blower, so I made these.

Since @Pullstart didn’t provide video of him singing it… This is second best:

As a supporting WHCC club member, I am part of both groups… but I just wanted to clarify it is the club’s show and many active WHCC leaders are not on RedSquare.

@TJ Salyers To get a good idea of how tires look I always use Giggle to find 'real life' pictures of them instead of relying on these generic placeholder pictures. Most of the time you'll get good results that way

I just went out and measured them, and aired up, they are a real close 23. It might be like a 22 3/4 but it is real close. I inflated one new one and put it beside one of the old ones that was still on a rim and they seamed just about the same diameter/height.

Worked on a 520H. Needed the carb cleaned. Engine was "hunting" Bottom of the bowl was pretty bad, looks like PO left bad gas in it. Broke out the dremel with wire bush end and got the junk cleaned up. Had a little oil drip at the filter fitting. Used a modified motorcycle lift.

or a chair.

Got a little further. Wheels and engine back on. Hopefully I’ll get a spark tomorrow.