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What is going on here is a disgrace . Again history repeats itself . We have learned nothing and are just waiting for the inevitable. Everyone’s safety decreases every day this is allowed to continue regardless of where one is in the world. The whole world should look up to the Ukrainian people and in the very least grow a pair of their own. It will be too late when it knocks on everyone’s door.

One person's 0.010 under may not be the same as the previous builder's 0.010 under. There can be some variation in aftermarket parts. Pick up some green Plastigage ( 0.001 - 0.003) and check your clearance to be sure.

Thanks guys for all of the input. As for tie rods,I actually bought the pair off of ebay for $59.00 shipped + WV sales tax from joes-outdoor-power a few days ago. Very satisfied, ends are very tight. They appear to have been well maintained during their previous life.

Might be true and if you get invited Waldo you get to eat off the poop shovel....

It’s looking like I may be able to go. We’ll see if the planets align. 😁

Moving along a little bit. Carburetor and fuel pump cleaned up and rebuilt then both were sealed in ziploc bags until they are installed. Dash panel is sprayed with my rendition of a brushed aluminum finish. I spray the dash with Duplicolor silver wheel paint. When it dries I use Scotchbrite to make machine brush stokes in the paint, taking care so that the scratches only go one direction. Then I use Duplicolor wheel clear to gloss it up. All ready for Terry's 3 piece dash decal set. With any luck I will be blowing some red paint around this weekend.

Maybe that's why my measures suck! I usually measure in 100 different spots and come with somethin different every time. Yes plastigage can even be used by an idiot like me. I would tell you to measure the bore but I suck at that too! I am stupid enough to check ring end gaps so that I would recommend.

Hopefully the rod blew because it was low on oil. I would want to check the crank pin to see if it is out of round before I assembled it. An out of round pin will also cause an early failure of a rod. I usually measure the crank pin in at least 10 different spots with a micrometer to check to see if it is true. Specs say .0005" tolerance on out of round. You could use a caliper for this as well but it won't be quite as accurate.

I have the funny feeling that if someone ordered a WH tractor in JD Green with yellow wheels the factory would have cancelled the order!!

@WHX?? Thanks! .020 over piston and .010 under connecting rod are already ordered and on the way! So getting the right sizes doesn't seem an issue right now, assuming the right ones show up of course. I'll post updates. For budget purposes here's where the project is at: Tractor C-100 = $25 Engine rebuild kit = $100 Carb Rebuild kit = $10 So $135 if we get a running C-100 won't be too shabby...

Blue one looks like a Simplicity.

Gutbrod's were painted red & white or blue & red.

True story, one of our Bavarian members (maybe our ONLY Bavarian member?) was trying to figure out how to get a 3 speed transmission home from the Big Show that didn’t happen in 2020 via plane luggage 🧳!

Gas isn't the only thing that has gone up in price, have you bought groceries lately? Though I'm on a fixed income the "Big Show" is one of my indulgences that is Priceless and a few extra $ for gas won't be a determining factor.

Just says “Black” Here’s the can…

Some fun for tonight... The Head Tractor Disassembler worked on cleaning up the steering tower/transmission tunnel. She also did a bit of vacuuming and found the mysterious disappearing clip. I did some experimenting with 2 different pullers. To remove the inner portion of the PTO I used a pretty standard bearing puller set into the groove. Note the WH lug bolt I threaded into the end of the crankshaft to protect the threads. Here's the steering wheel puller I used to remove the crankshaft belt pulley. Action pose.... Bit gunky back there but we've seen worse.

You TOTALLY lost me Dan, Now you know why I pay you to to be my bro! I was never particularly good at math without taken my shoes off, but let me know you wanna take this thing off to fly ..... I got the landing lights on a 520...

416-8 is a good strong tractor, the only downfall is that it has an Armstrong lift rather than the electric lift. That tiller will give you a workout. Depending on the condition of the engine, transaxle and steering I would guess $ 600 to $ 700 would be a ballpark price.

At the very least PRAY for the Ukrainians and if you can give to causes like the Red Cross and other humanitarian organizations.

The note on the cap bears testament to the trial and error that went into choosing this color

was in the dry shed and took this pic neat looking bearing on the fan tail shaft

There's a color I use, I'll check when I get home

Not to my knowledge. The D-250 was build by Gutbrod in Germany. Only the 1030 and 1040 were blue and red. Found it, They also talked about Wheel Horses originally painted in olive drab for the military.

If I were making a pair, once I got the fitment figured out, I would put a tube/pipe over them not only for strength but for looks Kevin types faster than me....

No clear on top of the Satin Black.

A few of the Raiders I have flipped. Many had the early style mule drive and all had the best PTO engagement lever wheel horse made.

I PM’d this to Dan, but figured I’d stick it here too for reference. the steering arm looks like it’s 3-1/8 - 3-3/16” away from the 1” pin. The arm appears to be perpendicular to the centerline of the spindle rod. I don’t have my angle finder handy right now but the the tires appear to sit flat on the ground (aka no camber) so I believe the bend angle could be calculated by the angle of the machined surface on the axle. the steering arm I believe should be flat. The one pictured is a bit twisted/bent and the other one is flat.

+.020 & .030 pistons still available for K241 in aftermarket. All sizes avail in gen. Kohler but $$$$$. Big block parts still available.

That there's some good sh!t too boy!

Here's a Raider 8 with original decals that I rebuilt a few years ago, I added the different seat and springs. They're great little tractors.

I heard from the rumor mill that @WHX?? will be providing lunch on Friday if his his tractor does not take a whiz.

Not to be Debby Downer here Outdoor but @Achto is doing a 181 and having a hard time finding a 20 over piston. Don't know if they are hen's teeth for 241 or not. Squonky says parts are getting scarce for the small blocks not sure about the big blocks. I admire your give it the old college try tho. You get a new standard rod I would plastigage it just for drill. Just for inspiration I threw a rod in a 241 once and did exactly what you are doing and to this day it runs well. Everybody here told me I was nuts for using this block but no guts no glory and I ain't flying this tractor at 33,000. Good luck and keep us posted please.

Maybe a state or municipality got ahold of it and painted it yellow to match their equipment? A picture would be great

I gave the Pull Hosen @Pullstart a swept awhile back and pretty sure it had spindles maybe he can get you some dims. The spindle sockets were pretty wallowed out but figured a guy as talented as him could do something with it.

My approach: 1) Do I “need” it? = Willing buyer willing seller Mutually agreed price and don’t look back or talk about it (the price) on RS. 2) Do I “want” it? Running and moving see 1) above. Non-running / moving with engine $100 max. Roller no engine $50 max.

Now that I own three 8hp Kohler's I can say they are great engines. Made to last if you do all PM`s on them when required.

Rustoleum Satin Black

There's a pair on ebay, but he's proud of them...

I did a quick search and cam/lifters is quoted 20-21 hrs. First time and it took me 26. I charge less than most shops because my overhead is much less, so the extra 5 hours is still a huge savings for the customer. They purchased the majority of the materials (so they could put it on their card) and my bill will be around the quote for diagnosis alone.

That is funny!

Typical tractor flipper a cheap can of spray paint and they think it's worth 1000 more than what he paid for it It a nice setup for the garden if you can for a more realistic price. It's a alot without knowing the history behind it

So the best scenario is a tractor with hydraulics if u use a tiller?

Degreasing complete. Next is derusting.

I remember that thread. It inspired me to offer to disassemble, crate, and ship a family heirloom dining room table to my brother in Ireland. Quite expensive, all in with materials and transport, but very happy brother and SIL and the table stays in the family!

It's my go-to brand. I get it at NAPA and O'Reilly's. O'Reilly's is cheaper

You ever try Dupli Color brand? I've had better luck with with overall performance using it.

Another one from Walk off the Earth, then I’m done for the night. Great hilarious production!

Mostly agree with @WHX?? I don't know where "any place" is so I can't offer any regional distinction. Non-runner generic? $150 Non-runner desirable (bucket list or any round hood)? Maybe more, maybe quite a bit more, maybe less. Depends a lot on condition and completeness. That one looks very complete and the tractor seems nice (little exterior rust)---can't see much of the deck. You don't mention what skills you have to address bringing it back to life. It could be as simple as a new battery and fresh gas but it could be a lot more involved.

I ran it a few miles and changed the oil again. We’re all good now!

There is a good chance the ammeter is wired backwards. To reverse the gauge leads remove the negative cable from the battery and then reverse the ammeter leads. Reconnect negative battery cable. Before - The ammeter still shows 5v amps discharge and around 7v amps discharge with lights on when running After suspected - The ammeter shows 5 amps charge and around 7 amps charge with lights on when running