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As requested some pictures of my 1986 Wheel Horse 512-D with sweeper attachment.

My first WH with an oil filter…Oil & filter change done on the 315-8 this morning…

Alex held me captive in the garage for 8 hours today. I still couldn’t get spark with the tecumseh h60 that came with it so I took my complete spare for my 603 off the shelf and wouldn’t you know it no spark. I fought with it for a while and got frustrated (give me a good old Kohler any day). I got to thinking. I had another one mounted in a suburban frame for a potential rat rod speeder (like 7 years ago) that I never finished. So he pulled the engine and I tinkered a little bit and boom spark. He then went to town on getting all the engine pieces back on, engine mounted, hood on, belt guard on, clutch rod and brake rod on and his seat. It runs but needs a little adjusting. He’s happy as can be. Few small things and a couple bigger pieces left and he should have it cruising in no time.

I got the Honda running on the New To Me C175-8 It does smoke quite a bit. And someone, hooked up the throttle directly to the carb so I have to play the governor. Already flattened some molehills with with the tractor.

While what isavetractors is showing will get you a heavier hub and bearings it really doesn't add much/any strength to the actual spindle since it just slips on. If you added the welded brace in the "90" like JeepDan did since that is the true weak point and added the slip on for larger bearings that would be a good improvement. I really think if you did that brace on the "90" and went to needle bearings on you 3/4 spindles as @Snoopy11 and some have begun to use, it would be a reasonable good loader setup. PS I recently learned you can easily take a front axle from a J. Deere. 200,300 & maybe others that has factory 1" spindles, quickly paint it red, no one will know the difference.

Got the 1970 Sundstrand Hydro disassembly finished up. It had good wheel and axle bearings so I harvested them.

Be sure to post up a pict when Trina installs it for you.

Anyone who watches this thread is likely to get a kick outta this... I needed a distributor for my old '86 Ford F250 with a straight 6 300 powerplant. The factory carb and distributor are computer connected. I'm removing the OE single barrel carb and intake to replace with a small 4BBL Carter AFB atop a Clifford intake. This means by default I also need a distributor because the stock one would have no advance. Poking around on the interwebs and I found a forum alot like Redsquare in general positive nature. Fordsix. A fella named Bill Ambler was recommended to build a custom HEI type distributor for me. He modifies them to every specific vehicle. 1 wire connection. 50K + volts to spark plugs. Easy starting and better power/torque output/mpg.

I was considering adding the 1 inch spindle over the 3/4 spindle, welding it to the L shaped spindle and then adding a triangle piece of steel or extra metal like @jeepdan did welded over the L shape to give it extra strength. Looks like it would be as strong as the OEM product that was sold with the wheel horse FEL. Sound right?

OK I am getting a bit confused the Original poster had an Electro 12. Drain back is not an issue no check valves needed the gas tank is above the carb. Heck if you keep the tank at least half full you do not need a fuel pump...

Excellent advice. But I'll go one step further. Any paint can be deadly if breathed. But hardener as well as acrylic urethanes and acrylic enamels contain products that will harden your lungs as well the paint. Many people who now suffer from COPD admit that they never wore breathing protection while spray painting. My advice is this. If you can smell it, you are breathing it. At the very least wear an N95 mask with ANY rattle can spray paint, and a fresh air respirator when painting with hardeners and acrylic urethanes. Think about this. These paints and hardeners contain isocyanates. Crazy glue contains isocyanates. Would you breathe crazy glue? Sorry for the rant.

Removed a interesting hitch on my C175-8 which was rusted stuck of course. Lot of hammering and lots of lube, I got her out. put on this ball I had laying around. ( looks home-made, but i have seen a couple of these around, maybe a Belgium WH special.) Got a task for it next week so I needed a ball on there.

Aehm - who? 😂😂😂😂😂

My plow did not come with a handle so I made one.

We did. Then discovered it was out of time and firing wrong. From that point on I couldn’t of made it spark even if i had hooked it up to a wall outlet 😂. I tried everything in the book and then some and could not get it to spark ever again. Although the mechanic at worked offered to look at it so I may take him up on that. But yeah from that point on I’ve been struggling and he’s been hounding. This gets him going again.

There are less expensive options. Do away with the shaker plate entirely.

Well done Men.

A couple visitors today. It is entertaining watching big Woody reach in the feeder and pluck a sunflower seed with his tweezer beak. Then wedge it in the bark and hammer it to shreds.

Time for the annual Kennell Oyster pie dinner. The recipe has been posted earlier.

Back in the early 80's the dealer I worked at had 2 C-65's. A Tow truck and a bucket truck. Both had 230 C.I. 6 bangers in them. You could crawl into the engine compartment and close the hood! The lifters in both clattered like crazy. The bucket truck had to be put in my stall every weekend so it was my job to move it. No power steering. The shop owner rented it out to farmers in the fall for apple picking.

I have Matt's foot control on 5 of my machines. some have the steel reverse pedal and some have the cast reverse pedal. The 520HC that I use for snow removal has the older style steel revers pedal s shown. I use large insulated steel toed rubber boots and have no issues whatsoever.

Holds fuel in the line right up to the float needle valve. Even if all the gas in the bowl evaporates (and that would take some time) the first few revolutions of eh engine the fuel pump will push it into the bowl and enough to be sucked up the main needle

Glad I don't live in Maine. my shop charged me 250 for an M-18 2 cylinders, two rod journals, 4 valves, and he swapped in the new valve guides for me... He charged 150 for the first single but only 125 for the next two (guess he liked cash payment and donuts)

I have added a foot control to all three of my tractors. The 312, 417, and 520 all have the Eaton 1100 with the factory hand control still functional. I simply added a rod attaching the hand lever to a right foot pedal and removed any nuetral detant systems. For the 5 confined driveways I maintain, the foot control is a necessity as I constanlyt need to reverse direction. and lift the plow or blower. For longer open roads and driveways, the gear drive or hand control hydros would work fine. All my hydros have the hand control on the console tunnel which makes it easy to add the foot control. It would not work on a tractor with the control lever on the steering shaft. Of all the mods I have made to tractors. the foot control for snow removal has been the most valuable.

You can do it, but I wouldn't say "easily". You will need a spacer on the axle pivot. The JD axle pivot is much more narrow- by about an inch. Additionally, you'll have to fab up new arms on the spindles, because the JD drag link runs across the front of the axle as opposed to Wheel Horse being on the backside. Ask me how I know...

Feel like I owe an update here. I picked up the 753 a few weeks ago and have stripped it all the way down to the frame and transmission. I'm a fan of Super Clean, seems to do a really nice job de-greasing. The toolbox is completely rotted out and I've been unable to remove the seat support, ended up cutting the box out which means that I won't be able to re-install fenders later. Rebuilt the carb and waiting for fuel pump parts, hope to have it running for my sons 6th birthday in May (tractor party)

Well said Newbie. I was about to put this one in a scrap pile but then I found RS and the BS and realized yah... there are parts out there . Turned out to 2nd pic after one trip to PA BS. I thought were am going to find that SG belt guard. BS i found dozens all savable. The addiction began.. a hobby I really enjoy and keeps me out of the taverns. So just not any horse became a parts tractor but another to keep others working. I used to cringe at seeing A-Z's pics of tractors being stacked up like cord wood on a trailer for parts but I scored an immaculate correct steering wheel from him for my resto. I said a small prayer for the deceased tractor and promptly mounted it.

Oiled the two spots mentioned and got a chance to try it out today. Everything went fine. I got a chance before the snow came to look in the lean-to for the missing guard. Not there. It was listed for a bit over $20 including tax and shipping from a supplier I've used before. Toro's site said it was out of stock. I ordered anyway just to see. They took the order, but I got an email back saying they didn't have it in stock, would look in regional warehouses and get back to me with a delivery date. We'll see. Changed to the outer groove before getting out today. Blower worked fine. Didn't throw as far as I expected but I didn't get out until it warmed up this afternoon I have a couple more comments/questions. I know lots of people on the site have a preference for lube on things like the clip mentioned above and I'd like to hear them. Confession next. first I sprayed with PB Blaster, then decided I needed something a bit more permanent. Couldn't find my can of 3 in 1, so I used the only thing I had with a dropper tip. Hydraulic jack oil. it'll keep the parts moving and rust at bay for a while. After doing my snow removal I decided the motion control lever was a little balky going forward. Gave all the pivot points the same lube treatment and it was much better. Even with the hand motion control working well the hands are pretty busy blowing snow. Chute control, speed control, and steering. I need an extra hand! Interested in comments about the foot controls. I have other tractors with foot speed controls but cost of the conversion has been a sticking point for me. Do people who've done the conversion think it's worthwhile? This is the second 520H in the stable and I really don't have a lot of seat time in either. This one had a lot of questionable repairs and I'm working through the issues as I find them.

A few members have done this. That's how I got the idea. Just finishing these up. 1 1/16" "short hub" trailer spindles welded over a NOS pair of Wheel Horse 3/4" spindles. These are going to be used on a 312-8, sporting 8" wheels. Can't figure out yet, how to machine a seat on the steering arm plates, in order true them up to accept roller thrust bearings like on the 520's

Better get them fixed!

Ut-oh… I’ve got two !

One last little thing for my GT-14 arrived today. Not necessary however pretty happy with it. A 3D printed reproduction center cap insert. I still need to go back through the Carburetor. Otherwise in good shape. Mr Lincoln @A-Z Tractor (many thanks) sent me some gently used tie rod ends and the correct 3 spoke steering wheel with center cap. Is a Carb kit difficult to come by? Is that a question for another section? Thanks to you all. It has been enjoyable. I need another project now I think

I painted this tractor 20+ years ago with automotive paint over rattle can red oxide Rust-Oleum primer. None of the paint ever bubbled from underlying rust, and even typical scratches don't rust. Even in the environment here where items stored under a shed "sweat" from the humidity year round, I'm a believer in this primer. Even when used over light surface rust, it works well.

Made another set of skids for Tasha's Maytag today...I was happy with how they turned out and she loves them

Can't get anything better than an old school GM HEI

When using the hardener you should actually use a cartridge type respirator.

Thanks Mike! Same filter for my Craftsman GT3000

@JoeM noting your deck underside picture , I refer to that closed baffle area as( rot boxes ), first dealing with them , was to drill a center hole ABOUT 1 ,1/2" in attempt to help dry out damp grass. did nothing to help . used a cutting wheel and cleanly removed all related mount areas . I do not use any sealers or paint on the underside of my decks . found once the lubrication soak gets into the metal , it turns black with lubricant stain . as detailed in my rustproofing pictures , rarely have anything at all on the deck surface, drop the deck , 45deg to sun set up , spray it down , thoroughly , make sure the sun gets the deck hot to the touch , its drying and soaking in that lubricant . no deck rot at all , small fine file , blade touch up , lucas xtra heavy duty chassis grease , in all my bearings as well as pto drive bearings , came to this , by detailing problem areas , very reliable , rot free, and quiet bearings , greasy pete

Isn’t subjecting one’s self to that supposed to have a beneficial effect on the mitochondria or sumpin? If you don’t freeze, that is. That said, I agree; You two must be nuts to camp in that kind of weather. 🥶🥶 I’d be willing to bet you’ll get over that inclination in a few more years, though…

I could send you a relay. Common automotive one. A regular starter solenoid would draw more amps but would work. It would have to be continuous duty though.

And that is why I use a thrust washer, not a roller bearing when I rework an axle for bushings. I fly cut material off the BOTTOM of the axle - this also ensures that the washer sits flat and perpendicular to the machined bore. No issues so far .... Bill

Here is how I would do it. I would tap off the wire that feeds the PTO switch. I would connect a relay to that wire so when you put the key switch to on. It will power the relay coil and close it's circuit. Then install a 5 amp fuse connector to the battery positive and one relay contact and then the fuel pump positive to the other relay contact. So with the switch On the relay coil powers up, the contacts close and the pump runs and then shuts off when you turn the key to off. I have a drawer full of relays I could send you with a wire diagram. Simple. Another way would be install a separate toggle switch fed by the fuse connector. And install a red indicator light on the dash to tell you the pump is on. You would have to remember to turn off the toggle switch so the light would help remind you.

Johnson's paste wax. The first thing is to clean, then you want to lightly scuff, then rub in the paste wax. Then in July or August wait for the hottest day and wipe it down with used drain oil in the sun and let it cook. And painting the rims is acceptable

The PA show is 3 1/2 month's away. Yes I'm biased but you could buy my motor at about what a predator cost and not have to fool with finding a pulley to fit and rigging up a throttle ect. A Kohler replacement is a 2 hour job swapping the external parts and that's taking your time doing it.

70 miles, two and half hours, and $700 later we made it home with the engines...didn't get the green one...YET...he's giving the guy a few more days to come and pick it up...if he doesn't we will be buying it as well. But overall very happy with the deal we got today...both engines run really well and look good too...and when I mentioned that I wanted to power an ice cream freezer off of one of the Maytags...the guy gave us an old White Mountain hand crank ice cream freezer...so overall we had a really good day...now for the pics everyone is wanting

He looks so sweet !

Is the one that has baffles a side discharge?? All of my rear discharge decks...no baffles.

Beautiful spring-like day with plenty of sun. Pulled the 512-D out of hibernation for some " beauty"-shots.. it ain't pretty.. yet..