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A little more done. Valve covers are on. Cleaned the points and checked the Gap again and installed the cover. Cleaned the oil filter adapter up and put that on.

I could drive it home from where it sits... less than a quarter mile away. He wants me to make him an offer. I need all y'alls help on what it's worth. No mower deck, just the plow. Says that he has new decals for it and was planning on a restoration but if I made him an offer he couldn't refuse... Got them big ole WH wheel weights too! Dig that plywood seat mount! Runs and drives pretty well. Smokes a little (gray/white) on startup but goes away quickly. No knockin' heard... Sorry about the shake on this one, it was a little chilly and I was shibberin'.

Today's entertainment was cleaning up the flywheel and magnets. Got that done and glued them in with good ole J. B. Weld.

Treasurer says NO! Just thank her for the extremely thoughtful Valentine's gift she got you!

What were you using JB KwiK for? If this build stays on the usual schedule it's not going to move for another two years.

Trina does do some nice work.

Like Grampa used to say, "If all you've got is a hammer, everything starts looking like a nail."

Guess that would work better than pulling nose hairs with ring pliers. My go to tool for fastener removal;

Add another 200 pages to the never ending saga.

Ever notice how the tools progress when you encounter a stubborn fastener.

Nope! Mine is still here. Not a single mechanical problem it can't solve! Here's a demonstration of it fixing one of those constantly flooding chinese carbs.

We were the attachments. Does that count?

If you can turn that shaft all the way around, the flag is gone. Sorry, but you need to do a complete tear down to fix that...if that is what is going on. Pretty much, everything needs to come out to get to that shaft. There is a point of tear down that let's you see what is going on, but to fix it, it is the first thing that happens to re-build a block.

Here's a follow up report on the fuel starvation saga. The primer bulb solved the hard start problem, but it caused the engine to starve for fuel. When mowing, we'd have to keep squeezing the bulb to keep her going. So I installed a Facet electric fuel pump late last summer. I was amazed that it bolted right to the frame without having to drill holes. I used the elbow fittings from the original pump and my brother fabricated a block off plate for where the original pump mounted on the engine. I picked up an ATC fuse add-on at Auto Zone to wire into the ignition circuit. So far so good. It starts right up every time no matter how long it sets and runs great! Thanks for everyone's help and advice. RS is awesome!

Were you in @wallfish's toolbox again Richard!?!?

The right tool for the job. So if it doesn't come loose hit it with the Snap-On ratchet because it's heavier than the Craftsman ratchet!

While I'm restricted from any heavy lifting/work, I'm cleaning up a few starters from parts engines and wanted to add a few items to @stevasaurus excellent thread. The starter below is off an 8hp C81 parts tractor. Brushes and Commutators. I'm far from a brush expert, but part of my past work with utilities' large hydro generators taught me a lot about brushes and commutators. So after 40 years x 12 generators (480 machine years) of learning (and 3 significant brush failures where the brushes became 500VDC arc gouging rods) here's a small lesson: In operation a properly functioning brush does not actually touch the copper commutator. The brush actually rides on a microscopic fill of gas created by the current flowing between the carbon surface of the brush and the thin layer of gray carbon that has been deposited onto the copper commutator. In operation you would like a nice even-gray-haze/film on the commutator. Not a haze that has thick solid black spots or thin almost bright copper spots. many of use would like to take a Scotch Brite pad and polish that copper commutator nice and bright. In reality you should take a coarse heavy cloth (like a burlap sack) and work the heavy black spots off but leave a nice even gray haze/film. I didn't take a before picture, but in the picture below I've cleaned this commutator to a nice even lite gray haze. I'm replacing the brushes on this starter with new one. In the photo below the worn top left brush face is worn at an angle. There is a new brush on the right and you can see the top left worn one has about 1/3 of its height left. The brush is wearing at an angle because there is not enough length of brush left in the holder to keep the brush straight. The bottom left brush is about 1/2 length and its face is still fairly square so its still being held properly in the holder I don't know of any design number but this seems to indicate that these brushes should be replaces somewhere in that 1/2 to 1/3 length left. This 8HP starter has a 16 tooth starter pinion shown below. When moving used starters around you have to pay attention that they match the flywheel gear they are going to. All of the bushings on this 8HP starter were reusable. This starter of a 12HP K301 has a 10 tooth pinion. I also have one that has 9 teeth which I've read a lot of Green tractors have. The front cover (middle bushing) on this 12HP starter had 0.025ths egg shape wear, so I've replaced it. You can physically see the right side of the original bushing is worn thinner. The new bushing is about 0.001 to 0.002 larger than the shaft. Under multiple layers of paint most of these starters have model number information But this 3rd 12HP one didn't. Interestingly the 3rd one also was missing almost 1/2 of one magnet just like the one Steve had above. It ran before I took it apart, but I would have to think it would not have quite as much torque to crank a motor over.

I had a Trimuph Spitfire a while back. I had to teach it American English. I don't own any spanners, just wrenches. Here, the engine is found under the hood. The convertible top keeps the rain off of the driver. The spare tire is kept in the trunk. A boot keeps mud off of one's foot. A bonnet is what the ladies wear on Easter.

What @Achto is doing here is clever… same as @ebinmaine… post a bunch of stuff unrelated to their respective build threads… keep the ‘s occupied… not paying attention to their build progress… Squirrel!!!

Close Eric, Sadly though almost every tractor is worth more in parts than it is in one piece.

Hey OMG activity on the Colossus build.!! Whadi miss?

I like to do the "hurry up and wait" method.

Looking good. No snide comments here.

I had to fill in at a nursing home when they were in the process of hiring a new lead mechanic. One of the guys took me around the campus the first day I was there. There was stuff torn apart everywhere. clothes dryers, heat pumps, ice machines, beds. Everything apart and nothing even started to be put back together. They told me the old guy "Pete" only carried a hammer. I ordered a metal dumpster and threw out 90% of it! When I left that employment I went to work in the local school districts. Pete was lead mechanic in one of those schools. Yup I followed behind him fixing everything there. I programed my phone contact for him as: "Pete The Hammer!"

When I was reassembling the tractor I tested the heat sensor with a heat gun using the data that @Lee1977 also found. Not scientific, for sure, but when I dialed the heat gun from 180 to 200 and waited, in about 10 seconds the switch closed. Good enough for me.

OK...when I first read the start of this thread, I thought it would be best served in Restorations or maybe Pullers...depending on where this thread went. Now I come back into it after a couple of days, and it's 2 pages of "OFF TOPIC". There is only one place for this thread now..."None Tractor Discussion".

We are all different on this thing we call red square and thats one of the things that makes it so addictive. when I pick up a new to me tractor or any thing, I like to keep it as much like it was when I got it. I change all the fluids, spark plugs and clean it up, do what is needed to get it operating the way it should. The 520-H I bought new in 1989 is the only one I would like to bring back to it's original glory. That's unlikely because of health reasons but one never knows. Others get a new to them tractor and all they can think about is what they can make it into.that person thinks I'm crazy, probably right, I think they are but I sure I'm interested in what they make, it's all good.

So, in the evolution of fastener removers was this the missing link???

How’s it hanging?? Well if it’s hanging off your WH we wanna see it! Actually if it hangs off, bolts to, hitches up, sticks on it counts! Post up pics of your attachments right here...from mild to wild!

I guess i dont understand the reluctance to pull the top of the carb off and blow it out, these carbs are painfully simple, you'll spend hours trying to avoid something that takes minutes to do.

I'm gonna offer 200. Hope I don't insult him!

That's ALL I'm about bubba. I didn't originally plan on taking 3+ years to build this but it's all good. I don't NEED this tractor. I WANT to build it because I need a drivable "shelf" for the big nasty engine. Hey if it makes itself useful pullin' stuff all the better!

You should have said... "I need a reference for that"... Don

Sounds like ther havin fun tho.... guess all that matters.... I'll check back in in say ... another 100 pages....

The value of the plywood Is 390$ of the 400$ I would give... Don

If you used the regular JB weld you get to wait longer.

Lane said there were some that came with a bump. Rare option or something like that. This one was a previous owner mod.

Here’s one…

@Snoopy11 @oliver2-44 The disc seems to work pretty good after ploughing. I have 72 lbs of weight on it. The dome piece is sheet metal and had a flange to mount it with pop rivets. I cut the flange off and welded it. Whoever made it did a good job. I don't know about being made from factory but I think @953 nut mentioned he had heard of them. Jay

It is funny because after my last dog I said I wasn’t getting another one. Wife and daughters decided otherwise. Now I have another best friend!!

The original steering shafts were cut to get the rusty tractors apart. So I bought two 3/4 x 36" steel rods and drilled them to make new shafts. I'm leaving them long for now to possible adjust their length for my taller height.

Who's dreaming here, I suspect there's no "MAKE" option on your side of the controls.

There’s always the tool time approach…

🐻

Choosing The Right Tool For The Job Are you telling me no more using a screwdriver for a cold chisel? What about using the nose hair pickers for a snap ring pliers ???? I suppose that's out too!?!

just imagine dragging behind! Timma’ try skiing tonight!

I finished the tandem disc build. Now I need a large enough garden plot to try it out