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Got a couple things done on the Bronco. Repainted the muffler, added seat springs and 1 inch spacers, and basic servicing. New battery, fuel line and filter, and oil change. Still working on getting some hydraulic lines sorted out.

Had this one out cleaning up yesterday and someone stopped by and took a look at it and said that's a nice looking tractor what year is it. Told him a 1986 and he said nice shape but never heard of that brand before.

Picture taken around 2003. Two of three are still here, one sold to a friend who still has it.

finally got my raider 12 driving

Myself and Russ @SALTYWRIGHT

I like to go at least once a week. But my hands get cold fishing around in the chest freezer for the last bag of trout or perch filets I caught last summer.

The “ultra rare” Wheel Horse brand …

My two snow machines: a 1973 14 Automatic and a 1974 C-120 Automatic. I still have to attach the blades to the plow frames and attach the frames to the tractors. Oh, and change the front tires on the no name to tri-ribs, put the rear wheel weights on the C-120, put the front wheel weights on both, and load the rear tires on both. And did I mention that we had our first plowable snowfall Thursday night? I'm a bit of a procrastinator. Edit: Looking at the picture reminded me that I also have to put the poly wear bar on the 54" blade and chains on the no name. I guess I'll be spending Sunday in the garage.

These two works of art have been on the cork board at my basement workbench for years. Priceless…

My son Brad and I….Ill guess that he is 12 years old in this pic. He’s 26 years old now (and bigger than me!)

Got the Bronco converted to full LED. Same front setup as the 867, and non- standard tail lights because my fender is notched for the 3-point. Added a single inline fuse holder and fused for 5 amps.

Good to hear from you Steve @wh500special. Pickerel is a common name but we call them northern pike, gators and a whole host of other names that escape me now. Hammer handles are called the little ones. They can be fine table fare if cleaned right. A big one here is 40 inches plus which is intirely possible in some waters here. In fact were we go for them 32" is the minimum but most lakes no size limit. Regardless of size they are fun to catch and a run for the flag. A 36 I horsed once but slid him back down the hole .... caught alot of crap from bros but personally gotta be 40+ before going on the @wallfish

Bought a muffler for my c160 off of fleabay, I had a Cub cadet muffler on it and changed it over to that one looks a lot better back to original. I didn't like the Cub cadet muffler because it pointed down to the ground so when I drove over the driveway which is stone all I would get was dust storm underneath.

All you RedSquare members can't be spending all your monies on tractors? Can you? How about a little diversion, you know variety is the spice of life. I built my train empire about 3 years ago for a little more than a grand and has a permanent location in our home. Lets see yours! Before describing my layout I acquired my Santa Fe on Cristmas morning 1958. Retired to a display under glass are two mint models I bought to replace my beaters. My Loco has a remote control for bells, whistle, speed, direction and our 3 & 5 year old grandkids love it. I hope in a couple years I can set it up in their family room when they reach 8 as I was My layout has 105 feet of "atlas" track in a figure 8 around the living room and front door foyer. With a partian wall, hall closet and fireplace mantle I only had to build about 40 feet of shelf. I also I had to build an incline because the figure 8 needed an overpass. The maxium slope a train can climb is 2 degrees so to reach 6 inches I needed 32feet . But on the other side the drop is twice that due to the limited space of the foyer and yet no matter the speed, I have yet to have a derailment.

We chilled.....

When I drove it out for pictures it did not want to run as it should so I did not get a very good ride. I found that the magneto was not grounded good, so I fixed that and took it for a ride down the road and across the street. It drives nice.

Thanks for all the replys I picked up some chain and replaced that and clamped it together. Fashioned a pully on my drill with a shot belt and spun it over no more slap!!! Going tomorrow to a local bearing shop to locate bearing and seals. My neighbor come buy and looked it over he does farm equipment maintenance and repair said the sprockets are fine. Yall are awesome 👌

Garage is as clean as I’ll ever get it…so today I moved into the basement. Some of this stuff I knew was there, but not the 5” drive pulley!! All I can think now is “What is this going on!” The keyway is mint Can’t believe I have all these decals either. Hat is dirty but kinda cool

It is a disservice to others when posting about a project and a specific question comes up just to intentionally avoid the answer specially when it is done in an obvious manner. Not right and a disservice to basically all members in this forum. I can't even count how many times a question has been asked, and people have actually gone to their sheds in the middle of the night with flash light in hand to check their tractors and provide an answer and even a photo. To someone who has a problem and is looking to fix it that is a precious attitude to have and luckily it it is what happens with very little exception in this forum. A question is to be answered not to be ignored . There is no reason for that except for a selfish one. It is obviously not a case of not knowing the answer for one would not boast about a project progress or method without knowing what one has done to accomplish it. What makes this a great place is the willingness to share information, knowledge,and suggestions at a seconds notice by everyone.

Couple of great guys right here! @wallfish & @SALTYWRIGHT

The sprocket also need to be checked for wear. Here is a good and worn sprocket. The question is are you just patching it up, or do you want it to last another 30 or so years. If you can measure the bearings you can find them cheaper. My guess is the repair parts place is ripping you off and providing Chinese parts.

Did you forget me all ready....you old horse turd!

I have one more thing I would like to give you for that tractor. I had originally nicknamed it “Hank” after my late father n law. We made this plate for it and I was going to put it on the rear seat frame. I forgot they called you Hank. Seems it should go with the tractor.

Above is a 1975 C160 Automatic. Below is a 1986 417A with a @JCM on it. Here's Trina's Military Tribute Tractor "Millie" which has a '68 Tecumseh 10 horse engine.

Me n the BBT spent some more time with Millie today. We swapped the original 5 star light duty hubs for some HD hubs with 2 set screws off a 310-8. Also added inner wheel weights while we were in there. It now has 25-ish lb inner weights and 65 lb outter weights. We got a nice set of tire chains from @pfrederi. Thanks Paul! We'll get some straps or a chain tensioner on there. The battery hold down originally installed wasn't adequate so I added a cross piece. It sits a little off angle because of a vent but it's tight. Next will be to change the ignition switch and replace the wiring harness then adjust the steering shaft.

Lol, anyone who knows the first thing about tractors should know about wheel horse!

@Joe 77 B100 hey! you changed your name, diddincha? A little more about that setscrew: [/broken record mode on] You can't tighten those screws tight enough with a simple hand wrench. They need to be 25-30 ft lb of torque. Chances are that it's tight enough already, but if you DO loosen it for any reason, make sure you get it tight enough again. You'll need a ratchet wrench and an 8 point socket (to fit the square head). That nut that is on there is called a JAM NUT. It's purpose is to keep the set screw from loosening. Before you attempt to loosen or tighten the set screw you first need to loosen the jam nut, and then after the set screw is tight again you tighten the jam nut to hold the set screw from loosening. [/broken record mode off]

Engine is striped cleaned and ready for blasting. Need new sand in the cabinet. Results of the bore measurements are; Spec. is 2.625 min. Wrist pin direction (measurements are minus to the min spec). Top - 2 Middle - 3 Bottom - 1 Valve direction Top - 3 Middle - 4.5 Bottom - 2 Kinda expected that. Aluminum casting, no sleeve and worse on the loaded direction. Did alot of reading on honing aluminum and hypereutectic aluminum. (Say that 5 times with a mouth full of crackers). This block is certainly not that. All the other research says don't do it, mainly briggs. Biggest surprise was the ring gap. Spec. is .010 min. .020 max Compression rings measured ,075 and .077 "WOW" New rings measure .026 in the middle. Piston at the skirt measures just in tolerance. Crank jounal Spec. is 1.0615 min. Measures 1.0613 - 1.0614 I've gone this far so I'm gonna continue. Tranny Found the shift forks I needed, just need to order the bearings Wish me luck

Wheel horse parts and more one of the vendors here or your local toro dealer or on line.....

Not much updates I got 2 long sides done and the frame rails and brackets. They are now in cold storage until I get rest done

Take a good look at the sprockets for wear. New chain does not always play nicely with worn sprockets.

Here's the K582 that'll be on Colossus.

Wonder if Craig might have a soundbite or 2 to post. Here's some earth shaking power! Maiden voyage and the friction wheel was slipping.

Insert Small needle nose pliers straight down with half inside half outside bulb base but between bulb and socket. Twist bulb base around pliers it will wrap around pliers and pull bulb base right out…

Like others I'd replace the chain, but if that's not the way to go, how about cutting the chain and putting in a half link to take up the slack? C-85

Crazy if you pay those prices! #40 chain for example, 10 feet, $14 bucks. https://thebigbearingstore.com/40-roller-chain/ @David1975

You can dig the old bulb out. Use a small pair of needle nose and a small screwdriver. Once all the glass is out you can grab the metal part of the bulb and start twisting. It will come out a little piece at a time. The screwdriver will help to gently pry the bulb loose from the socket. Jay

My son didn’t use the c-145 for the 10+ inches we got Friday so yesterday I took it out to tighten up the driveway and then make paths in the back yard for the puppy. The first minute was great! Then the spark plug wire popped off. We’ve had issues with this wire for a while. I didn’t want to mess with it so we stole one off a 312-8 and back in business! IMG_2831.MOV

The cotter pin and washer work fine, but as you already know, are a pia to correctly install. Just did what @ebinmaine mentioned last week - hexhead bolts with nylock nuts - works great. Bill

Yep use a washer and install the pin correctly.

A little ice fishing tip - If you find yourself having to chase after a lot of tip ups, stop putting bait on the line. This will allow you to have more time to sit in a warm shack with a cold drink in your hand.