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Kind of a diagonal that qualifies for either Front End Friday or Sideshot Saturday. So I'll post ON Friday IN the Saturday thread.

Thanks to the advice of the friendly folks here, my 656 is done. Currently has a 6.5hp Predator engine with a golf cart starter generator and a small ATV battery. Drive pulley increased to get a maximum speed of about 8mph. Last week I installed a Delco copy mechanical voltage regulator and mounted an inch thick steel plate for the front weight. Here's a pic from this morning. That's a homemade 35 gallon tank traiker. I sprayed two tanks yesterday and three this morning in our 25 acre orchard. ZERO problems. Used less than 2 gallons of gas too!

I'm about to find out. Finally made some space, and hauled the transmission into my "work room". Emphasis more on the "work", since there's hardly any room. Claustrophobes need not apply:

2 nuts don't take long to torque! My nuts get torqued every time @elcamino/wheelhorse mentions my name!

So you ask for advice, and at least 90% who gave you some advice told you the right way to do it and the way you want to do it is wrong and dangerous . Keep in mind that at least three of these guys are licensed electricians with over 100 years of combined experience. All I can tell you if your going to do it your way be careful, be very careful, and buy a nice size A B C fire extinguisher .

That #12 wire became a long fuse!

Same here Jay….licensed electrician since 1990….everything I read made me cringe. Lots of advice given, none taken. And the electrician who said it’ll be fine, should have his license pulled!

Working on an order going to Sweden! All printed and ready for prime and paint.

OK, not dead, just resting, waiting on its servant to produce a working transmission. I've acquired a stand-in, until the old horse is back on its feet. Finally got the lawn mowed.

You people sure can get into a persons head. After rereading this entire thread, it finally hit me like a baseball bat, just what I was attempting to do. RUNNING # 12 WIRE ON A 50 AMP BREAKER IS DEFINITELY WRONG ! Sometimes a person, me anyway, gets a one track mind on something, and just doesn't think about the whole picture. So I set in this morning to rectify the situation. I cut a hole in my wall. It hurt, but I did it. The white box on the left is simply a junction box to get wire inside the wall. The welder outlet is once agaIn alone, on it's own. dedicated, double pole, 50 amp breaker. The AC is on it's own, dedicated, double pole, 20 amp breaker. I had to double up on some other circuits, as our local farm/home store did not have any tandem breakers. They didn't even know what they were. I will have to find some. The # 12 NMB is still in plastic wire mold, and code or not, it is going to stay that way. I can't see what it can possibly hurt. Believe it or not, I have done quite a bit of wiring in my time. I have completely wired 2, new. large hog buildings. Those familiar with hog buildings, know how extensive the wiring can be. 1000's of feet of # 12 THHN were ran. If you are wondering, yes, I did have to have a million dollar insurance umbrella. How did I get it? That's between my insurance man and his conscience, but I can tell you this, he's good ! I have also wired several new homes, I don't know how many garages, and countless other small jobs. As far as the hole in my wall, it may be a blessing in disguise. When I built and wired my garage, I did not include any outside lighting. Maybe I can fix that now. After that I can permanently patch the hole, or maybe I can simply trim around it for future access. ( Maybe a bigger box) I guess I have some of my own rules about wiring. In a kitchen or garage, I won't put more than 4 outlet on a breaker. The living area and bedrooms 8. In older homes I have found MANY walls I could not fish. Around here anyway, years ago, homes were built with firewalls. These were 2X4's, nailed cross ways, between studs, to help stop the spread of fire going up. Sometimes, they even had a small amount of concrete poured on top of the 2X$. Impossible to fish. As far as Jeff, my electrician friend, I trust him completely. I don't believe he would purposely give me bad advise. I just don't think he understood what I was trying to do. Probably because I didn't explain it well. Thank You all for your advice and comments. Sometimes it takes me a while to catch on, but I eventually get there. Usually.

Had parts of this tractor in bare metal for years.

@peter lena Lube was bad. Both axle seals seem shot. I mean, really gone. It also looked like maybe the seal on the input shaft was starting to go as well. Boot on shifter was coming apart - clearly water in the case Looked like maybe some rust on the shifter So, oil was brown, smelled bad, watery, contained metallic particles. I agree, I mostly expect that there won't be anything majorly wrong inside. Gears moved relatively smoothly, with no sound of broken bits or skipping from broken teeth or anything. I may have gotten by by just replacing the shaft seals. However, I've got a replacement tractor now, and the pressure is off. So now I'm mostly hoping to learn something, and do some long neglected maintenance on the whole machine.

Yeah, I'm working my way through the @stevasaurus videos. Those are really helpful in getting a picture of what I'll be dealing with. Really awesome. I'm not sure what I'll get done this weekend. My wife is away, so I'm on kid duty along with some other things, and I'm slow in the best of times. So, my goals are pretty modest: hoping to get the exterior cleaned well videos watched get the case cracked open and some pictures taken Anything else is bonus

Have to add my 2 cents and keep this thread going. My in-laws bought some tires and didn't realize what the noise and vibration was until the tire fell off! My own story is about buying tires at a box store. Seems they drove the lug nuts with the impact gun. When I had the tires rotated at a trusted garage a couple of studs snapped off when he removed the nuts. Seems the installer drove the lug nuts with the impact driver but cross threaded a couple. Lessons learned. 1. Don't buy tires at the box store. 2. Start the lug nuts by hand, even if the impact driver is faster.

Very nice. You are going to love that Predator. Had mine for years and it still starts on the first pull every time. I upsized the pulley too and it has tons of power and torque and easily pushes heavy snow at 8 mph as it sips fuel. It easily pulls my 700lb lawn roller too.

Don't quote me on this, but if you replace all of the bearings and seals, gasket, shift boot you should be in the $200 range doing it yourself....and that is pretty much all the bearings. It is worth it if you got it apart already...fixing the trans gives you another 50 years (thinking you will never leave it out side to get water in it). As you go through this trans and clean things up, you will see how well it is made...seals and bearings...that is nothing after what that trans has been through.

County yard sale weekend.. heres some awesome finds at the first stop.... Korean war vintage handy talkies Old school inverter..doesnt pull ANY juice till needed Transistor test set and little 12v bench supply And not pictured...3 ea 3ft x6in Led programable displays Hams always have the best stuff!

Here is another great source, the Hand Book that does step by step. You want section V...

Hey easy there big guy, I use a 6' wooden Lufkin every day in the trade.

Hmmm. I still use my 6-footer all the time and I have an 8-footer that is handy on some jobs.

I have rebuilt a deck in near similar shape as yours. The pitting on the top will take some work. It's best to take a abrasive disk to the entire deck to get rid of all paint and loose rust. The most challenging part was filling in the pitted area on top with jb weld and sanding in all down smooth so the slider bar will function correctly. Shown are before and after. As for spindles I went away from the DD style you have now and went to the 3/4" keyed style. I believe K and B horse parts is a good source and A-Z tractor were my best sources for replacement spindles and pulleys. Someone correct me but I think @Lane Ranger makes the slider blocks you need.

Hitch pin is out and hubs are off so the toughest work is done. I use a sharp wood chisel to "tap" at the case half gasket all the way around. Usually on the second circle around the transmission the halves will begin to separate easily. Be sure to clean everything more than you think you need to when reassembly time comes. I find the locating pins in the outer case halves to be an issue if not sanded a little. Looking forward to seeing pics of what you have going on in there. I have an 8 speed setting on the shelf waiting for a cleaning and new seals as well. If you need reference shots I'll pop that one open but there's great info in Steve's threads.

This post was made a few years back by @Save Old Iron and is well worth reading.

@stevasaurus has done this before and was thoughtful enough to develop a great thread to help others.

For a replacement spindle...NOT KEYED...the cheapest would be those for a model 05-42MS05. That COMPLETE spindle is #111726 (was 110172). The left and Right pulleys are # 109967 and the CENTER pulley is #110148. Spindle belt #6738 is correct for this 42" deck. A new blade set is # 106636. There is also a KEYED spindle assy # 107405 (108848) but the price for it is nearly $300...and the pulleys are more pricey too. You can go to this website to check out prices, but be prepared... Enter model # 05-42MS05 and clik thru the schematics. https://www.psep1.biz/arinet.asp?aribrand=TO#

@Gregor I understand it is done in your mind. You have received a lot of sound advice. #12 wire on a 50 Amp breaker is an extreme fire hazard. Please at least install the breaker enclosure with a 20 amp breaker. As an Electrician for 41 years I could not ignore this thread. Jay

‘73 10

As some may know and some don't, I bought 2 tractors at the big show. My goal was to find a 312 hydro for my daughter. Something that she could drive and pull with 100% on her own. What I found was a 416 hydro with no engine for $100 and a 312-8 with only 325 hrs for $75. I ended up stripping both tractors at the camp site and building a 312 hydro then selling off the extra parts to help fellow collectors keep more horses alive. I don't have photos of along the way but here is the end product all shined up. Just needs new tires and wheels. And my daughter is happy to have a tractor like daddy's.

Good replacement engines for 99 bucks. I have one in my b-80,one in a 654 and a 301cc / 8hp going into a Raider 10. All workers.

In 82 and 83 they were called GT -1642 but it is the same tractor as a 1600 however different color gray. Those years had a metallic paint. 84 was just pewter gray. My GT-1800 is an 84

I was typing the above as you posted those pictures. You can see the abrasions in those #1533 ball bearings...a pair of those from Lowell is about $80 for 2...I think. You need to replace those. From what I can see, your gears look to be OK...need to see those after cleaned. All of your needle bearings, see if they clean up...you know what to look for, see if you think they need replacing. The big bucks is the ball bearings. Well, let's see how it cleans up and what you think about all the bearings.

OK, so, some pix, in gory detail (looks like I've got a lot of cleaning to do ):

We can have a race! My engine vs. Colossus!

My custom mix from the usual breakfast place. Eggs, hashbrowns,sausage,ham,bacon and cheese smothered in BROWN gravy with a side of wheat toast!

Work Horses were made from 82-84

Likely you'll find a good interior cleaning will do wonders. I'd highly advise close inspection of all gears of course and pay particular attention to the shift forks for both shifters knowing it was binding. At minimum you can order: Case half gasket. Shift boot. All 4 seals. 2 qts cheap 80W90 or so. Be a good idea to order extras of all for the future or other projects or... If you're like me I've been known to bugger up a seal during installation. Trina and I have enough tractors to maintain and current/future projects that I buy in bulk and keep my own "Parts department". Found that after... Thanks!!

According to Garry's wiring diagram, follow the white wire from the engine directly to the relay. This is a magneto engine so cutting that white wire will allow the spark but you won't be able to shut it down unless you ground that wire at the engine. Good luck!

Can you believe 3 pages on the subject of lug nut torque ?... I just tighten mine...

Saw this little rig at a convenience store in Buxton today

One word of caution, those cheap units don't work to well and will fry a battery. Some work....some don't. Monitor the battery for a few days to insure there are no problems. You get what you pay for!

Meet Ms Bailey. The queen of the castle.A gentle loving animal with us but a ferocious one with strangers. A real guard cat.

Just added the decal. Thought I would show everyone before I scrapped it off.

1954 1964

My 702 Wheel Horse cooling in the shade,

Kids are out getting some sun

B 80's Been Mow'n Lawn Here Since 2004.

Your 1973 Raider 12 should have the #5073 transmission. This is a 10 pinion Limited Slip differential. You should also have a dip stick. Do you still have oil in the transmission? You can do a few things to determine if you need to drop and open the transmission. Take off the belt and guard so you can turn (by hand) the input pulley. Jack up the rear end. As was said above, pull out the shifter and examine shifter. Try moving the shift forks with a large screwdriver and position shift forks so trans is in neutral. The fork toward the rear of the trans is your 2nd & 3rd gear...the fork toward the front is your 1st & reverse. Try to move one of the forks and if it does go into gear, turn the input pulley counter-clockwise and listen and feel what the trans is doing. Try all gears if able to shift. Let us know what you find when doing these steps. This may give us an idea of what is wrong. This thread will give you an idea of how this trans works and will help a lot if you have to open it up. The differences between your #5073 & the #5060 in the thread...you have a dip stick, your brake drum is mounted on your cluster gear shaft...instead of the mushroom gear. That's all.