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I picked this up yesterday from a R/S member. It was stored in a garage since 1990 till this year. Family had to clean out the estate. So I got lucky on this. A short video of what it looks like. You will see the bolts are all original. Will post pick about the seat. It needs some lite TLC and a good cleaning. This will be a summer tractor only. I hope you enjoy the Vid. 7-14_2021_post_copy.MP4

Our local engine and tractor club held our last show this past weekend. Over the past three years the support from the community has decreased and we had just enough money left for one final show. Attendance was down but those who attended enjoyed a great weekend. This little guy on a Suburban made a couple trips around the fair grounds under the watchful eye of his dad. Fred Flintstone showed up too! Front end and grill from a Massey Harris Pony, S-10 running gear and everything else is made or wood, even the frame. Better call Terminix. Here are a few others from the show.

Hi guys. I’ve acquired a c120 auto that needs a fair amount of work. Engine not running but looks in good order. the half shaft also keeps popping out of the left hand side. I’m wondering if the 12hp Kohler engine will fit straight in my B80 4 speed with out any mods. I’m thinking I could make one nice tractor out of the pair I have. Here’s a picture of them both.

I'm in total agreement with the others. The axle is a simple fix. If you still want to do the swap it's quite easy. Do not use the riser plate that the K-181 sits on. Use the PTO from the K-341.There's a bearing race inside for the larger shaft. A little bit of tinkering with the control cables and you're off and running. Here's my "B-160". I bought it new as a B-80 and swapped in a K-341.

Thanks for the info.............don't know if I will be able to get at it today as am up to my rear end in alligators right now. Its still sitting on the back of my deuce & 1/2, am really looking forward to getting her in the garage and playing with her. . Bought it because have always liked the looks of these old horse's. Yeah, it pretty crusty, but then so am I. Thanks again!

Agreed. Felix I'd fix them both. Fix/save/keep both. Parts are readily available.

Hello guys..its me....The.attending.doctors.did find a.small infection..one they will.overcome....thank you everyone for all the kind.prayers and words...I recognize many of you as brothers and best of friends Many of the younger guys i would be proud to have as sons... Thank you joette and.lowelle..this is just a.brief break in my rythm.. All my love to my frinds new and.old..always

Hello , new here, I just bought a champion type RH10 tractor. In order to restore it, I am looking for a site or other possibility of finding occasional or new parts. Thank you. cordially Hello @David Paquette, welcome to redsquare. It is mainly an English speaking forum. But I am Belgian and I can help you. Champion RH10 is a type of spark plug. Your tractor is a C Series Wheel Horse. Perhaps pictures would help us identify your tractor. What parts do you need? Hello Maxwell, Ha alright, I'm starting well ... I haven't had time to look at it yet because it's very recent. I will join you photo with pleasure. Nice to know you ^^

Votre tracteur semble être un C121

There are so many possibilities, it's hard to know where to begin. What if any safety switches have you hooked up on the tractor? Seat switch? Brake pedal switch? PTO switch? Did you replace the ignition switch? There are 2 types of switches. One is for battery ignition, the other for magneto ignition. They are NOT interchangeable.

Gettin' there Mike. This evening we got the transmission together. Trina will put one more coat of paint on later. Need to install the 4 seals and bolt it in place. Thought some of you would get a kick out of this old Toro label. The gasket is from the auction we went to almost 3 years ago now. 15 years old.

I agree, it can get out of hand quickly. Not for a bloke like me however.....😉

I went from none to 4 and a groundskeeper and a bolens in a year.... I see how this can be a healthy unhealthy issue haha.

I hear you on that one. I have this lineup and 3 others that didn't make it to the photo shoot. I really don't need anymore. Or do I.

I’ll bet it was gone quick....

Those are a "pepper pot" muffler, the shower heads haven't been made for a long time and bring huge money!! Randy

He said..........Merci de toute vos info ,ont reste en contact. Bonne soirée Roughly.......Thank you for all your information, we will keep in touch. Have a nice evening

Really enjoying the back and forth on this thread, folks. Awesome stuff you all helping Mike and in turn, each other like this.

The shift rails in these early horses can have a suction problem when shifting fast (usually from 2nd to reverse or vise versa). In other words, when shifting fast from reverse to 2nd, the shifter leaves one shift rail fork and grabs the other. If there is enough suction, the vacated shift rail fork can get sucked back and then you are in 2 gears at the same time. The only quick fix is to do what you did. To help to not have this happen, never shift without coming to a complete stop. Do not shift fast, take your time and use a deliberate "H" pattern. BTW...Welcome to Red Square.

Don't forget about @Skipper .

Well that did the trick.......she rolls now............trans has diesel in it..........am going to need some seals as its coming out of the wheel hubs. At least now can get it off the truck. Looked like mud inside the gear box. Have not tried to get it running yet. thanks again and know I'll be back with lots more questions.

Just scooped up a new toy that I couldn't pass up on. Having it doesn't sway my loyalty to wheelhorses. It's a 64 and from my brief research on these 110 models it seems 99% there and original. Only flaws are a badly bulging rear tire that is otherwise in great shape, a small crack in the fiberglass hood that is easily fixed and the headlights may or may not be original and in the wrong location. It runs like a top, Kohler 8hp so that's not suprising and all the gears work as does the variable speed setup. At $450 I couldn't say no. Originally the guy wanted $650 in marketplace and kindly turned down my $400 offer but the next day said $450 would take it. Deal

Here is a video from one of our members from your side of the pond, next is a thread on the transmission.

Drain the oil and see what it looks like if it's miky in color water has gotten into it so not a bad idea to flush it with diesel or kerosene. Refill through the shifter lever hole if possible. About a Qt and 1/2 or up to the plug hole on the back left side.

If you can slide the one axle all of the way out, you can use a press to remove that hub. Definitely fix the tranny before trying to put power to it.

Be carfull when you go drive it, the C-clip is still in there, so It doesn't end up damaging any gears. would get the tranny fixed before a drive.

drive shaft? busted c-clip, bougth a 314 with the same issue, just open the tranny and install a new C-clip. Kohler should just swap over.

Bonjour @David Paquette, bienvenue à redsquare. Il s'agit principalement d'un forum anglophone. Mais je suis belge et je peux vous aider. Champion RH10 est un type de bougie d'allumage. Votre tracteur est un Wheel Horse série C. Peut-être que des photos nous aideraient à identifier votre tracteur. Quelles sont les pièces dont vous avez besoin ?

Tinkered a little with Dugs relief valve. Pulled the spring and plunger and gave em a wipedown and replaced. Seemed like everything was "stiffer" afterwards. Had the bucket raised about waist high and was lifting myself on it to get a feel of the cylinder pressure and to see if there was any leak by.

Very nice score. FYI - Those rear fenders look even better when they are painted red and installed on a

You know the old sayin.....You can't fix..............

Was waiting for some other guys to chime in with some pics but looks like I am the only one. Some honorable mentions.... Lowell's new to him mini dozer.... He also picked up a McClean just before the big show so I guess Dan needs to change his badge to only other McClean club member!

We certainly do not need another one but even as frugal as BBT is we'd have owned that if we saw it.

If you are referring to a true” shower head” muffler such as the ones that belong in an RJ, that is a rather rare item. In the box NOS it may go for over $100.00 if the right people see it.

Added one of Lowell’s front blade brackets so I could hook up the front blade… ready for snow!!!!!

I’ve done a fair amount of reading on this subject. I completely rebuilt a Briggs Model 23FB last year. That is a big honking Cast iron single without counter balance gears and it isn’t bad, although the crank could be balanced better than a Kohler. Anyway, I read that k series cranks are better balanced than Magnum cranks. 🤔 I was lead to believe K’s aren’t bad without the gears and considering the rubber mounts I was hoping it would be fine. On another note, if you’ve priced a crank for one of these you would understand my hesitation around shipping it off. Damage and or loss are real possibilities with the usps. As for the plates, I’d have to find someone willing to machine the crank and mount them. The shops around here are swamped. I had trouble getting one to do the work I just had done and it took 3x longer than quoted. For better or worse, I think I’ll button it up without gears and hope for the best. Worse case I’ll tear it apart later and get the crank balanced or reinstall the gears.

The key is that the lobe that moves the points rotates on the camshaft rather than being in a fixed position (hence the 2-piece cam name). The purpose of the rotation is to automatically change the timing of the points opening from when the engine is at rest and starting to when it is running from slightly retarded to more advanced. The arms and springs govern the rotational position of the points lobe on the camshaft. When at rest, the springs pull the arms in toward the center and the little arms that engage the points lobe rotate it backward, against the camshaft's rotation, to retard the timing. When spinning, the arms pull outward against the spring and rotate the points lobe forward, with the camshaft's rotation, to advance the timing.

When you 1st start cranking the engine, those weights will turn the cam that the points shaft rides on so that the points open a touch sooner then they normally would. It advances the spark and thus helps the engine to turn easier...in other words, the spark happens a touch before full compression. Once the engine starts and rotates fast enough, the weights go back and the advanced spark is normal again.

You must have taken a wheel horse instead of your car, Jeff... it's been 23 hours and you aren't here yet...! Oh, speak of the devil... here you are... Don

Glad we could help.... Ask away! Some times it will leak out in back of the hubs since it's much thinner than 80/90. One thing you will want to do is jack up the rear and check the outboard wheel bearings. Move the wheel up and down and back and forth. there should be a little movement but no more than say 1/16". The seals can be replaced from the outside if no movement. Also check the tightness of the hub set screw and the condition of the keyway while you are back there. If the shifter boot is shot replace it ..... that's how water got in there.

This should not be done this way. Don't hook a negative lead to the negative on the coil. Only a power wire to the positive side of the coil. Your points need to create the ground for the negative side of the coil.

There is a hump in the center of the transmission, while draining it, raise the front of the tractor as high as you can to get all the fluid out, especially the diesel fuel.

Thanks for tagging me in fellas! My guess is you'll be ok if you're using the shaker plate, but man those Kohlers are SUPER smoothe with balance gears and shaker plate combined! At the very minimum, i'd get one of Kirks plates and run it with the shaker. My experiences are as follows: K with no balance gears from factory- normal vibrations that you get used to K with balance gear and shaker plate- nearly smoothe as a twin cylinder K with balance gears removed- very noticeable difference in vibes, especially around maybe 2000rpm, pretty 'normal' feeling at full song and idle My K321 balanced correctly at 50%- noticeably smoother than a standard K with no factory balance gears, comfy to operate, but definitely not as smoothe as a shaker plate/balance gear combo. Factory balance gear'ed K might be a touch smoother. I have no experience with how kirk's plates 'feel', but he is accomplishing basically the same thing as my balance jobs done with adding tungsten slugs to the counterweights, just perhaps not as 'individually tuned'. Hope this helps

Seems to me you already have 2 nice tractors. One of them simply needs a little TLC. Why settle for one, if you can have 2?

Update on the SC, rebuilt the carb and replaced the leaky sediment bowl on the 4th, now it will start with about 2 seconds on the starter. Replaced plugs and wires Saturday afternoon and she runs remarkably well now. Was going to do points as well but having a bit of trouble sourcing them for the non original Fairbanks Morse FMJ mag that is on this tractor. Need to do some rewiring and replace some non working gauges before September, planning on taking this one to the Threshing Bee in Fairview OK

I did a bunch of small fixes to the 312-8 that I use for mowing. She has 1644 hours on the clock. - removed/pressure washed deck and greased spindles - sharpened blades - oil change (I'm commiting to doing it every 25hrs and using quality SAE30) - fixed very loose hood hinge by ditching the factory rod setup, then welding the egged out holes and redrilling them to accept 3/8" bolts with nylock nuts. Hood is completely stable now. - replaced fuel line before and after fuel pump. Also added an inline filter - drained tank and cleaned it out with the old paper towels and compressed air trick. Also replaced fuel petcock and gasket.