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Well, a good friend led me to a certain item at an auction up north... Hopefully nobody wants it as bad as my empty trailer! We’ll find out in about an hour and a half!

Hello all , im new to the site and thought id say hello . My name is Geoff and im from the uk . I have been trying to buy a wheel horse for some time , and thought i would post a few pictures of my new purchase . I have been trying to identify the model and year of manufacture without much luck and was hoping someone may be able to point me in the right direction . Over the coming months I hope to sort a few issues with the transmission , it wont select 3rd gear . The 8 horse kohler engine seems to be good , starts easilly ,and runs without issue . No doubt there are other things i will need help with in the future . Geoff .

No go on the lever steer, but it was great to meet a handful of fellow Wheel Horse / Pond fanatics and enjoy some fresh up north air! I’ll refrain from the details of the sale, but it was more than I brought along and congrats to the winner!

Matt took care of my gt14 seat for Skittles..... just haven’t put it on yet. Want to wait till I finish painting her. They do great work.

C-101 that is. I got this recently from @ACman and I'm trying to get it back running and driving. My first WH. So far I like what I've seen. I'm going through a a lot of electrical issues presently. New Solenoid and I'm thinking the ignition switch is shot as well. I have schematics and the service manual. It turns over and has compression. I haven't heard it run or even pop yet. Working on that. A PO used to long of screws on the air filter pan and it was loose on the carb so that was resolved by filling the gap with caulk. I've cleaned most of that up. Do the 3 screws have lock washers on them typically? Don't let the fancy seat fool you, it doesn't all look that good. Not a lot of paint left on the exterior. I'm sort of treating this tractor as a teaching tool so I'm thinking about taking the PTO apart just to see what's in there. Do you put a little grease on the bearings? I have around 1/16" of space between the pulleys and the clutch when disengaged. I see that I am missing a spring. I do notice that when I engage the PTO it actually pulls the engine back a little. That doesn't seem right even though this has the shaker frame motor mount. Should I loosen the clutch a little? What is the process for adjusting the PTO clutch. I've looked through the manuals but ultimately it may come down to just trying it even if I don't have and load on it. Did I read that the motor pulley needs to be 1/16". from the motor. Mine is more like 1/2". Thanks for having me over. Model# 91-10K801-0469

Getting closer to done. I have to say every time I get a package from redo your horse. com I'm like a kid on Christmas morning. Terry never fails to amaze me on sticker design and quality. Top notch. If anyone needs decals for their horses, don't think twice about Terry's decals.

Just wanted to show a modification I did to my 1990 310-8. I recently picked up a 36” tiller for my horse and I tried it out on my new garden area. After hitting a rock, it knocked one of the axle brackets open dropping the right side of the tiller. On a manual I viewed, it had clevis pins to hold the lever in, but my bracket did not have them. I drilled a 1/4” hole through on each lever and mounted a 1/4” clevis pin and hairpin cotter to reinforce the lever. I read on another post to just tighten the bolts on the levers, but I think this will work a little better. Hope this helps someone!

it's sad to see that some people just throw away their rubbish instead of taking it back and disposing of it properly. Here with us, it is often cyclists who simply throw their rubbish next to the general public's bank. Bad luck when I'm in the shed - and I'm over there very often at the moment. So i was yesterday in the Shed and Serviced my Hand Mower. after back in Service i prep it for delivery.. Than Mart‘l come along and ask me if i have an idea he have a need for a pallet fork extender to have a little bit a longer fork while moving the hunter stand arround with the FEL. It must not carry a massive Load, it just was needed to keep it in balance while driving. So we discuss a little about and that what i come up with. The Flat iron was 13mm and 1 meter. the Bandas are built of 2 U profiles 5 cm to carry the Bars on the Fork 5 mm thick Steel. 2 Angle iron stoppers prevent twisting of the Bars on the Fork and a small endstop will finalize to set it both in a fixed place, even it must push a little.

It was rainy today, but I rode my tractor anyway. Tractoring is just as fun whether it’s sunny or not. ☺️ I put on the snow plow, and did a little paddock scraping. Everything is looking so nice, now that I can keep the mud controlled. Took the new tires and wheels to the tire shop Friday afternoon, but didn’t make it back for pick up before they closed, so it’ll be Tuesday before I get them mounted. New rear tires came in, and I plan to drop them off when I pick up the fronts.

Broke in the new front tires on some grass

They'd just sit and drink beer.

I drove the ones on my L107 out with a brass drift from the opposite side.

First cutting today with my new 854!

Making a move into Asian diesels?

The tire shop broke the beads for $0 and I finished the rest. I'm accustomed to stiff dirt bike tires with tubes/rim locks so these are a piece of cake. Gained a bit on the cut height which is a big plus Much less steering effort and they look sweet

i think it is more like a way out west wild horse! Someone saved it, loved it and did what he could to save it! Plus, many a mongrel is a very much ❤️ mongrel!

@haydendavid380yes, the bigger one on the left if you are looking at the rear of the tractor. Be sure to jack up the front end a bit to allow everything to drain. You might need to clean out the socket a bit. There was a lot of gunk in mine when I changed the fluid last month. (Look at me, handing out advice! Someone more experienced should probably check over my post before anyone actually takes the advice. Lol)

RJ-58 without a hood but that hood doesn't look too bad on there. At least whoever did it took their time and didn't just go the easy route and cut off at the steering shaft. Finding a correct hood isn't impossible if you want one but could take some time. It needs a belt guard and extend that exhaust to the front or it will burn your leg. I'd get rid of those wheel barrow front tires too

Thanks Buddy Bear, i did a little more finsh today.. But firstly i was at the dump with the Horse after that i travelling back and again tilled the Field to prepare the Soil. after tilling, i changed over to the Trailer to pickup the Summer tyres. Than i do a Tyrechange on the sleeper and on the Landlady‘s Car. At least i finished yesterday‘s Daywork and give them a Wirewheel cleanup to finalize the Forkextender for Mart’l by give them a little Rattlecan Paintjob. The Warning Tips in Horse Red is a must have as i find 😎

Looks like the remnants of an RJ with a cobbled up hood from a 65 -70 square hood grill. In other words a Mongrel (I also see an Economy tractor in the background! )

Better think about a carb rebuild.I wouldn't even try to run it with a carb that looks like THAT.

Don't the blades rear up, or cringe when that 'yaller' gauge touches them?

Hello all. My father is cleaning up his collection and one of the items coming out of storage is an old Wheel horse b-145 electric tractor. It’s been stored inside for about 15 years and is still in fair working condition. Does anyone know a range of how much it might be worth? It will soon be for sale. Thanks

Hello all. My father is cleaning up his collection and one of the items coming out of storage is an old Wheel horse b-145 electric tractor. It’s been stored inside for about 15 years and is still in fair working condition. Does anyone know a range of how much it might be worth? It will soon be for sale. Thanks

This is a surprise to me and maybe you too! In the old days of farming a flat or low tire could be a problem. This was before air compressors were widely available. International Harvester had a special attachment that hooked up to a spark plug port . It was a hose with gauge that was used to pump up the tire with air compressed by motor turning over. How’s that for ingenuity!

Rubber delivery day here too A pair of Tru-powers showed up to my garage this afternoon.

Would someone help me ID the model and year of this tractor? It just doesn't match the pictures of others I have seen. ---the square back side of the 'top' just above the engine is what caught my eye as the most non-typical. It is a Kohler engine--unknown model there too. Thank you.

The orange monster is a '65 Economy Power King. Got it last summer--was in a shed in the woods "lost" since 1994... it was terrible. It smelled so bad from the HUGE mouse nest and the rotten rear calcium filled tires that I had to park way in the back yard away from the house while I got it going. Engine was rebuilt less than 6 months before it was parked in '94, so its bones were excellent.

Trying to get the hydro fluid changed on the 160. The plug towards the rear is the correct one to drain (right side of picture), not the one in front of the left axle, correct?

Hey folks! It's been a while since I've been on here. No heat in the garage + Northeast winters + getting old keeps me in the basement until Spring. Since Spring has sprung, today I did the patented @peter lena mower deck treatment on my almost new 42RD. This process really does a nice job. I can see this will keep the underside of the deck well protected! Thanks Peter! EDIT: Also gave her a bath, changed the oil, lubed her up and a thorough once-over. Surprise-surprise, all is working perfectly. Peter Lena's deck rust proofing post: Mower deck rustproofing - Implements and Attachments - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

Yep I agree with they guys on this one. It is a '58 or '59 RJ. It looks like it is mostly there, just has the wrong hood on it. It should look like this.

Picked up some weight for my 314-8 today.

Frankenhorse to the

I think JC Whitney sold them. Not unusual at all. A lot of the old time air compressors for road construction work that were powered by flatheads had 2 cylinders burning gas and 2 just pumping air. An old timer up the road from me has one he sandblasts with.

Bob, can you use a wooden dowel or something similar or maybe drop a piece of 3/4” flat, cut to length thru the axle hole and rest your punch on it.

New tires and tubes. New rear axles and repaired front spindle. Trans rebuilt with new bearings bushings and seals. Put dual axel seals on just to make sure they don’t leak. Still a ways to go but at least it looks like a tractor again

Just install an electric pump.

We can cruise them together...

It used to be the steel was sorta affordable. Before I got my loader, I priced the steel at a local fab shop. Gave him the PF plans, he said cutting, bending, welding it all up was about $1200. But the hydro stuff was even more. What's nice with the PF plans is he gives you every part number you will need. I went thru it all and added it up, was gonna be over a grand IIRC just for the hydro stuff. I got lucky with my loader, I think I paid $1200 and got a parts tractor. But now that steel (along with everything else) is thru the roof, it might take awhile. I always said when my garage is up, got all the tools and equipment I'd need, to build stuff to make some extra money. But, anymore, don't see that happening. But can get lucky finding hydro stuff. Local yard gets some weird stuff in, so getting valves, cylinders, pumps and what not would be way cheaper than new....

I just put one like it on the Raider

My sweet 16!!

I have a total of 26 1/2 horsepower sitting around, and no HORSE to put it on. What's a guy to do?

Try a little graphite on the shaft. And yes hooking it up backwards will make it run in reverse. (don't ask!)

Cut a few conifer stumps to ground level for an elderly neighbour this morning. He had been trying and failing with a chainsaw so I broke out the Sawzall with a carbide toothed blade and took them to pieces. The chainsaw was an electric one with plenty of power but the blade tensioning hub is poorly positioned so that it fouls on the stump and prevents the cam teeth from biting in to the wood and allowing proper use of the saw.

It fired right up, and seems to run perfect, at this time anyway. I still have a lot to learn about how to set those governors.apparently, but I will get it. Not that I know how to check it, but the generator doesn't seem to be putting out anything at all. I have read before about "polarizing" a voltage regulator, so I googled it, and read this: Clip your jumper wire to your battery terminal. Find the terminal marked "F" (for fuel terminal) on the regulator. Touch the free end of the jumper wire to the "F" terminal twice for less than a second each time. You have now polarized your regulator. Well, if I am suppose to have a fuel line running to my regulator, I have made a major, Bone Head Move. The starter works fine. Maybe a non working generator is why this thing got parked in the first place, I have no idea. But it starts and runs well. Any tips of what to look for, or check on the charging system? Do I need to have the VR hooked to a battery, for it to work? 20210424_043745.mp4

Regarding those numbers after the K341 1st are you going to buy OEM Kohler parts or one of the aftermarket overhaul kits? The aftermarket kits are generic and you just have to measure if you need to bore cylinder or grind crank to get correct size. The Kohler individual parts are all mostly the same. They did use 2 different style pistons, but you can match the picture to what you have. Remember, IF it needs an overhaul (you need to do the leak down test -Or- you could pull the head and measure the bore. we all have ways about how we go about things. So I will say—- If it were me, I would do the leak down test. Remember it’s an older engine expect at least a little leakage. If you have a lot of air coming out crankcase oil fill tube your headed for a overhaul If everything seems to have only a little leakage I would try this (partly for the experience since you’ve not been in small engine) 1 . Pull the head, measure the bore 1/2” down from top, middle and bottom, in line with the crank and 90 degrees. Compare to the manual and post readings here (If bore isn’t terrible) 2. Pull the carb and clean it. Be sure to clean the tiny holes in the long main needle top middle and bottom. 3. Pull the breather and clean (pay attention to how parts go in order and up/down 4 Pull the valves clean them on a wire wheel. Mic the valve stem in the valve guide wear area and compare to manual Then lap them iin the seat with lapping compound (this is good experience if you still end up overhauling) 5 Clean the carbon off head and piston, I like to use a plastic scraper so as not to gouge it. Then sand head flat with wet or dry sandpaper on a piece of glass or other very flat surface Put it back together torquing the head bolts per manual. See how it runs You may get a few more years out of it. PS. The Manuel’s section on RedSquare has the Kohler Manuel and other good info

Absolutely , even a slightly dirty carb will cause the Onan 220s to surge. I cleaned my '88 three times before the surging stopped.

A couple of parts orders came in today. The new seat looks amazing! Got a chrome lug set, a little piece to fill the grill until I get my headlights sorted out, a plug for the hour meter hole, and some filters.