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Did some fine tuning on the sweet 16 today. All the adjustments needed to make it all come back together.!

Got a little time this afternoon to get a little work done on the Lawn Ranger. Got the front spindles on (new ones from A-Z) with new 6" front wheels and tires. Got the rear wheels off and the new ones on. 8-1/2" neutral offset wheels, with 18-9.5×8" Superlug tires. Wisconsin parts are coming in, got some new throttle linkage parts, head gasket, points, condenser, S/G belt, and a couple other little things. Still have to figure out a throttle and choke cable. The Wisconsin Amp Meter and Start Button bolted right into the old holes in the WH tank and center column. I know she's not the prettiest thing, but should be pretty fun once its completed. I need to re-make a tool box, as the clearance between the rear tires has shrunk. The old box is 14" wide, and i only have 12" between the tires (old skinny tires had 17" clear space). I have Steering Wheel coming from @76c12091520h and a new drag link for the steering. Should pretty it up at least a little. And I do plan on running a Jim Kemp stack, this one was borrowed off my Commando 8-8 for test fitting.

Cleaning up the old Power King.

This manual will give something to work from. If in doubt you could replace the switch and clean the terminals that connect to it. Take a look at other electrical connections to be sure they are clean and tight too. I would remove the fenders and the cover for the tunnel where the shifter so you can clean up whatever is in there, you will be amazed at how much junk accumulates there. removing the engine tins to clean the cooling fins is a good idea too. If you run into any problems give us a shout.

New fuel lines...

Start it, run it forward and backwards, operate the lift up and down. Stop the engine and recheck.

Agree with pulling the engine tins off. Not a bad idea to expose the cooling fins to clean them on the hydro too. Especially if the machine ever ran a rear discharge deck. I like to add inline filters so I can see what a going on with fuel delivery. Other than that, do the maintenance and ride!

Hi, my name is Brian, I'm new to Red Square not sure if I'm doing this in the right place. With that being said, I was wondering if there is a way to check a Wheel Horse for matching serial numbers, like the way it can be done with cars, I have a '77 C-160 that I got from my dads estate, I have owned it since the late '90's, not sure when or where he bought it. I think it has most if not all the original factory parts still on it and was wondering if there is a list from W.H. that would tell me if it is all factory original. just starting to get it back in shape and finding all these numbers, the plow, mower deck, transmission, tractor the motor all have serial numbers, just a curiosity on my part to know what I have.

Pull the breather to clean and inspect it, if a previous owner assembled it poorly that could be the problem. Check the compression to see if the basic engine is healthy. Hold the air filter element up to a light and see if it is clogged, a restrictive air filter will cause a vacuum.

Leaf Duty here

Decided to come down here to the shop to sit with the lights out and the door is open and listen to it rain and thunder. Of course I am surrounded by my heard. Side by Side! How sweet it is!! IMG_9039.MOV

My apology to the group and BAM1. Where do I send the fine for posting WRONG INFO. When I get it wrong,...it's REALLY wrong.

I made an old MTD snow blade (square peg) fit on this Raider 10 with Tecumseh HH100 (round hole) by fabbing a bracket to mount it on until I find the proper wheel horse blade. I have changed the oil, gas filter, and transmission oil and tires. Put a rebuild on the LME 29 carb but still seems a little sketchy. I put a new spark plug in it and it felt a little "off" going in and felt like it wouldn't get completely tight, like it was stripped. Started it up and it ran for 5 seconds and blew the spark plug 20 feet out into the driveway. Oh man, that sucked. So I put the old plug back in, it seemed to go in fine and snugged right up. Don't know what's going on there, now I'm scared to try and change it again. Right now it runs pretty good. Seems to have a slight miss, can't tell if it's the carb or plug. Have started running seafoam in the gas. Hope it snows tomorrow.

This horse followed me home today! I think its in good shape even though its ready for a good maintenance rundown. Came with a 48" deck that needs some maintenance as well. One question: The previous owner said the ignition switch has a bad connection and will vibrate off? Is this a known problem? Should I search for a new switch or can I clean it up or do you think its a wiring issue? I plan to change: Oil Air filter Transmission oil and filter Spark plugs Grease as per manual Battery terminals have some corrosion It might have a transmission leak. Going to have to clean things up and take a closer look. Anything that you would do before I put it into service? I will spend a week or two fixing things then store it for the winter.

We'll need to see the coil to really know.. they had THREE ignitions on that model. Magneto usually is a 1968, SSI and battery/electric seem to switch around together in 69-70. Manual clutch is wrong. The original electric likely failed and this was the standard repair process, as both then and now, an electric PTO was rather expensive. Manual is better on the implements anyway.. If you see no coils at all and the plug wire goes behind the shroud, thats a magneto. A short, squared looking coil is the SSI, and a generic round 3 wire coil is a points fired battery ignition.

Should I put an in-line fuel filter in?

Thanks this is kind of what I was looking for, it was just for pure curiosity, and maybe bragging rights if/when I do get it redone.

I did that once and I had a garage full of chickens, ducks and peacocks! And I live in town!

You just rebuilt an engine on a restored tractor. Make sure you have good grounds. You may have paint somewhere creating a bad ground.

Heres just some pics of him riding it before it broke down. When we get it fixed I'll post a video of it and see how it runs and how fast it is!

If I did that the garage would be full of toads...

I like it.

BEHIND THE DASH... When I purchased this 1967 WH 1277 it had sat for several years. I cleaned out the mice nest behind gas tank and changed the ignition. After some other minor repairs I got it started. Now I wanted to drive it. Unfortunately, every time I disengaged brake to move forward it stalled. Throttle was rusted in place. So I’m replacing throttle, cig lighter, some type of red light and accessory switch. The red light rusted on for life I think,

Thank you to everyone on this forum for giving me the confidence to get this good old boy out of the dirt and running again this Truly shows nothing is impossible this was siting in my collapsed garage for 10 years in the rain and elements and it still started now I just need to get some new wheels and she’ll be running like new IMG_4936.MOV

Pressure washing this today to get ready for sanding

Fixed the belt on the C-145 and heading to get rid to make a chute crank. Thank you for all the expert advise.

If "old" spark plug tightens up and new one doesn't start in threads properly and won't tighten, I believe it may be wrong threads on plug.

The gas tank was changed to under the seat in 1978, The 1976 and 1977 was still under the hood. My 1977 the fender pan is bolted in place with the seat hinged.to fold forward.

As Mike said, paint is not known to be a good conductor of electricity. With the engine running take a small jumper wire and ground the "F" terminal of the S/G unit. The engine should labor a bit and voltage should go up to around 16 or 17.

BAM1 You will always find help here. Enjoy the site.

Nice job on the fab work! And

Decrbonizing valves and replacing head & cylinder base gaskets in the wheeler's Rotax mill . Not fun at all .

55 mph ... wth ... need more pics !

Using up Vaca days. Took Thur And Fri off. Was hoping to work on the bolens ride a matic but the weather wasn't great. Got the 854 all cleaned up and the tuned the 551 carb. Some odds and ends around the house. Soccer tommorow with the oldest, working on the younger ones quad he snapped the steering shaft. See what the weather does. Everyone seems to be preparing tractors for winter storage. I like this time of year and do most of the running of the collection in October and November, til the snow. I really don't do much in the heat. Maybe I should summerize them instead. If the weather is nice take one of the mustangs out for ride

Spent some time with my angle grinder removing the old tow behind hitch on my de-thatcher so I can start its conversion into a front mount de-thatcher. You can see the start of the caster frames for the gage wheels behind the drill on the bench as well. Will need to pick up some 3/4" round in order to proceed to the next step. Yes, I have a thread going on this in the Implement section.

Not all automotive filers have the bypass valve. Many engines have that feature built into the engine block around the oil pump area. I have used a few Purolator and Wix engine oil filters on Eaton 1100s before, I just look for models with no bypass valves in them (I must have bought over fifty of them for $.29 each at all the Kmarts around me before they closed). And before everyone gets all worked up over it, 1) it was temporary so I could flush out the system, and 2) the gallons per minute, micron rating, filtering media, and burst pressure were identical to the 1410 Napa.

Welcome to redsquare. If you post the numbers on the ID tags it would help to identify it. I also have a 1977 c160 and as lone as it has model number 71_16KS02 on the tractor id tag its a 77 c160. The engine for that year was K341-71223A. The transaxle is a sandstorm 90- 1140. But others will chime in and tell you more.

That's because you are a machine operator... and you probably take care of your stuff with regular maintenance and fixing things right as you go along. @WVHillbilly520H

@Tractorhead Send some pictures , then we can tell you to go buy it. automatic or manual transmission.

A couple wide boards and hook it up to your 854 and pull it up and out.

So where do these stairs go TO? Bulkhead? Into the hallway next to the bedroom?

Got you a couple of calendar shots there

Same frame. Difference is in the wheels, tires, axles, and obviously the engine.

30w shell rottela . T1

Here we go again

Here’s the Corona Cruiser with Briggs Vanguard and open header. Emory’s hot rod black hood with Predator 22hp and straight stack. D160 with twin Nelson mufflers. Just realized I have a thing for the big twins!!

I started on fabbing up the front axle. Some beads came out good. Others are ugly but functional like me. I've been mentally processing how to accomplish what I need for the front axle given the materials, skills, and tools I have. I decided that as much as I like the idea of having an axle that looks like one solid tube I just don't have the tools or skills to cut the angles required... Yet... So I went with a modified version of the step down plan. What I've come up with gives me the width at 40" or so after tire installation. The frame height addition is 4" plus the axle I used is 1" taller. (Not counting additional tire diameter). Also I put a forward sweep of 2" in the new piece. Total front frame lift will be about 8". I'll cap all 6 open ends and also the V notch where I put the sweep. Materials used were at least 1/8", maybe 10ga. I didn't confirm but there's plenty of meat there. Welding is all with the old Lincoln 225 AC set to 105 amps. 1/8" 7014 rods. Here's a pictorial. I cut a piece of 2" tubing 23" long and cut 3 sides, relief cut the fourth and hand bent it to a 2" V. Set the pieces in place and triple double checked where I was... Cleaned all the paint and mill scale off the metal and burned some rods. Here's where I was at yesterday at quitting time.