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Made some forward progress today!

Good luck finding a 50-60 year old person with no scars like that... I feel like it’s just a story to tell

Meh... As Monty Python would say: Just a flesh wound...”

Relaxing after a dip in the chem bath spa.

Like my Father used to say .."A little putty and paint, make a job what it ain't"

So, a while back when it was still warm out maybe 5-6 weeks ago, I helped my mother bring home a waverunner, trailer and shorestation lift. The P.O. had re-strung the lift with new 1/4” galvanized cable. He gave me the rest of the spool, me not knowing what I’d need it for. A few weeks back, I found this big winch at a roadside junk shop way up north on the Tunnel of Trees. Well, if I put the two together, I should be able to pull any tractor up to the top of Norman’s deck, right? The winch has two different spots to hook the handle, giving two gear reduction possibilities. It seems very heavy duty and I grabbed it for just less than a song. There’s even a brake handle on it! I need to live it up a bit to allow free spooling though.

What Does Horsepower Get You? When I was a kid it got me lots of speeding tickets.

Horsepower is how fast you can hit the wall. Torque is how far you can push it.

a bit welding and grinding for view, and after a Paintjob it look‘s like as new

One of the reasons I posted this thread, is that I am trying to negotiate a deal on a Wisconsin in-line twin, putting out approximately 18hp at 3,600 RPM. Will it be overkill for a little Wheel Horse? Yeah, probably. Would it be a cool little beast? Heck yeah!

Found a piece of paper that I wrote down the numbers on this motor before I cleaned it all up. Stuck it on there and I think I need to talk to @Vinylguy!! I don't think this tape is going to hold up much longer!

For those inquiring minds, I hereby present... ...the essentials.

I don’t think many people will believe that my 8 hp Kohler will run a tiller, but it can, in good conditions. Typically I struggle with the belt slipping long before I lose power. Now, the question is bigger better? Absolutely! I set this up back when all I had was Putt Putt running the mower, tiller, disc, plow, etc.

More HP, less seat time doing the job.

In my opinion it is hard to get more that 12hp to the ground with most garden tractors. You will loose traction way be for you lose HP. More HP can be needed to run implements though. Hook a 10hp engine to a 60" deck & you will see that 10hp fall on it's face in heavy cutting conditions. Same goes for a large 2 stage snow blower. Torque is what gets your engine up to speed or helps it recover. If you look at most dyno read outs, peak torque will start to fall off before peak HP is reached. More torque will allow an engine to have more HP at a lower speed. Here is a graph of the Mopar Hellcat engine. You will see a similar pattern on most dyno read outs.

Sounds like you need at least a new threaded adjustment rod and trunion.Nothing should be welded on it.It's adjustable so as to put more pressure on the clutch hub.Possibly also a new PTO clutch disc.You install 1 to 2 new belts per year?? Something definetly wrong.I've had Wheel Horses with 40 yr old belts and still going strong. I usually only change them when they finally break.

So I've seen many videos / articles about "flattening" a Kohler head before installing a new head gasket. I assume this process should be done no matter what the engine brand is, correct? I'm working on a S7D Wisconsin (single cylinder, 7HP), and it will be getting a new head gasket (preventative, not due to a blown gasket). This engine has a similar cast-iron block and aluminum head like the Kohlers do. I was planning on doing it anyways, figured it couldn't hurt. Thoughts?

In new tractors HP sells. It’s that simple. In my way of thinking one horse power will run ground engaging equipment.....

^^^^ this with more horsepower you can cut more grass faster if you cut a lot of grass - more horsepower can make big difference I cut around 3 acres ; cut it with three tractors : 704 312-8 416-H Cut it one time with the 704 - and purchased the 312-8. Cut the time significantly - still long but doable. Then got the 416-H - cut the time again.

I can answer this real simply - STROKE Kohler 8HP K181 - 2.938" bore by 2.75" stroke Kohler Command Pro 9HP - 3.1" bore by 2.3" stroke. A longer stroke puts the crank pin further away from the center of the crank. This allows for more torque to turn the crank around when the cylinder fires. Same theory as grabbing a longer wrench so that you can get a rusty bolt loose.

Here is SOME of the tools in my set. All USA made except for the Gear Wrenches. I suppose it was a good thing that I was collecting tools since my early teenage years. The 6-point sockets and two ratchets in the center is what I added to my arsenal. I have a ton of extras that I'll be glad to part with!

Installed the (now loaded) rear tires back on the tractor. And threw on one of the hubcaps i recently got in the mail, probably the best shape out of the 4. I like it now just have to decide on a repaint color or what im going to do to them. Towing all day m-f and 3 overnights a week doesnt leave me any daylight to wrench on this thing. Also gotta do shift boot and change trans fluid asap as it now looks milky when it didnt a few weeks ago. And you can see the cab still sitting on my trailer waiting for 2 more windows to be sewn in. Slowly but surely.

2 bolts come up through the frame

I very humainly, kill them!.

Back story. I purchased this recently. It hadn’t run in two years. Mice moved in and things looked bad. So at the advice of you guys I started with electrical and trying to get it started. Today I added a new battery and new ignition switch. I put a in-line 30 amp fuse and more...

Fell asleep at the fire @WHX24 third time in the same spot!

There's a whole new can of worms, Single Cylinder vs a Twin...

Sometimes I'd rather just not know.

The deck drive belt should be kept tight via the mule drive tension adjuster. The deck trunnion belt that is spring loaded will allow an individual blade to slip if it is overloaded. Here are a couple pictures of the PTO upper plate. Yes, it is to the right of center when engaged. PTO disengaged PTO engaged Here is the PTO engagement lever where the camming takes place to keep the PTO engaged. Disengaged PTO engaged PTO notice how far the threaded rod raises when engaged. This is the camming that keeps it engaged, not the plate at the PTO .

The build kinda wondered off the original path and kinda took on a life of its own.

Fruit snacks! Fruit Snacks! Fruit Snacks! Fruit Snacks! Fruit Snacks! Fruit Snacks! First I go on tractor ride. - Leighton. She’s a poet and din’t even know it!

Boy named Sue is absolutely one of the best songs ever ever and ever and ever.

Belts, oil, lube the gears. Hitch, lift cable, adjust plow. Weights, tires, gas ‘er up!

It's a fricken' franken horse!!

That sounds like a good idea. I may hit it with sharpie first, and do a test cut with something fine. If no high / low spots, I wont have to do a major resurface

Yesterday I grabbed belts, engine oil, 80/90, and various fuel system needs, along with new pins for the hydraulic cylinder. Today, I ordered an assortment of fasteners from www.TheBoltDepot.com including new “shear pins” for Frank’s rear hubs, 9/16-20x4” bolts for Rebel’s inside wheel weights and some other goodies too. I’m on a breakfast date with my cute niece having “toppings and toast” before any work or tractor rides though!

Wheel weight decals inventory updated. Thanks for bringing this to my attention. Also was wondering are you going to be making the wheel weight decals? @Vinylguy I wanted to order a set for my d160 wheel weights. https://www.redoyourhorse.com/wheel-weight-decals/

The 654 is a short frame tractor The Raider 12 is a long frame tractor. Depends on the age of the dozer on the 654 if it will fit the Raider 12. You can likely figure it out from this list Dozer DNA of short tractor frame dozer blades 1961 model BD-4271 - Fits SHORT frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle - replaced by 1962 model BD-4262 - Fits SHORT frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle 1963 model BD-4263 - Fits SHORT frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle 1964 model BD-4264 - Fits SHORT frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle 1965-1966 model BD-4264A - Fits SHORT frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle 1967 model BD-4267 - Fits SHORT frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle 1968 model 6-2111 - Fits SHORT frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1968 model 6-4111 - First to fit LONG & SHORT frame tractors and first to mount under the rear axle - replaced by 1969 model [6-4112 + 6-9621] 1970-73 model [6-4113 + 6-9622] 1973-74 model [6-4113 + 6-9623] 1974 model [6-4114 + 6-9624] 1974 model 6-2131 1975 model 6-2132 1976 model 6-2133 1976 model 66-42BC01 1977 model 76-42BC01 1978 model 86-42BC01 1979 model 96-42BC01 1980 model 06-42BC01 1981-1984 model 06-42BC02 (Up to here they are 42" wide) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1984-1989 model 06-48BC01 (They are now 48" wide) 1990 model 06-48BC02 (Last blade to have 3 angle positions) 1991-1993 model 06-48BC03 (First blade to have 5 angle positions) 1993-2001 model 79350 - (105-1502 kit adapts 2001 and older GT Classic-Series blades to fit 2002 and later tractors 2002 2004-2009 2012 model 79364 - (105-1501 kit adapts 79364 blade to fit 2001 and older GT Classic-Series) A 2012 blade will fit the 654. Questions? Garry

Got it. Will be doing some engine decals soon

I'm telling Trina on you.... Actually never mind. She probably would think it's just as funny.....

Solved the knock! I pulled the engine, yanked off the pan, checked crank end play, rod to journal clearance, cam shaft end play, all within Kohler specs...I even checked the fuel pump for slack on the shaft but could find nothing wrong in a fresh engine. Put it together and was feeling kind of silly for the huge effort to remove this engine. When I was putting tin back on I noticed some oil at the corner of the head, checked torque and the righters bolt was 10 ft lbs. While reading the owners manual for this specific tractor on what oil to put back in I spied the spark plugs is to be gapped at .035 not the .025 that was on a Kohler print out I saw. Every thing back together now no knock smooth run and easy start. Tomorrow I will check the carburator setup and call it good. Loose bolts! Just loose bolts and plug gap! Worth keeping in the back of my mind for sure

https://www.thedrive.com/news/37057/the-ultra-light-354-hp-ariel-atom-4-finally-lands-in-north-america

Everything posted by these folks is valid in my opinion.The tractor itself takes very little power to move it around and say pull a cart.It is the attachments that take the power.A 10 or 12 horse can handle a tiller,or a 42" deck no problem.Using a 48" deck in tall grass may take a little more.The 2 stage blower or 60" mower are better matched to a 20 horse.Since the engines mounted to the WHs are rated at 3600 rpm the higher the HP then the higher the torque or twisting force at the crankshaft.

That lucky kid needs a Black Hood to go with her fruit snacks...

I like the 1770 number. As far as HeeHaw who DIDNT like HeeHaw lol

I saw an ad for an Ingersoll 224 tractor with all kind's of neat hydraulics on it, a snow blade, new tires and a fresh rebuilt engine along with new wiring harness a and the list went on and on, it was priced very low and three hour drive from me so I figured it was gone and he never killed the ad, after seeing it for a couple of weeks I inquired and it was available, I made the trip knowing that something was not right if it was still around but the price of the hydraulics alone was the entire tractor asking price. When I arrived he had moved it out to the corner of the drive, I looked at it it started right up and idles, revved up ok and moved on it's own power nicely. it had some hydraulic leaks at flare fittings that was more of an annoyance than an issue in my mind. I asked what his bottom dollar and he dropped the price a hundred bucks and said if I would load it up I could go to his son's shop and have any of the spare parts I wanted, well I said sure I will take what you don't need. Well long story short I wound up with two decks, the tractor and blade and a pickup load of parts included another set of rear wheels wheel weights, an entire transaxle and hydraulics to put another tractor together mostly . All the way home I was wondering what had gone wrong in his engine rebuild that was going to show up, he did tell me he had to use a john deere block which was bored 30 over and the crank was 20 under and the carb was new. After unloading all the goodies and sorting through them and stashing them in various open spaces in my shed and shop I ran the engine for a while drove it around the yard, hooked it to my pickup and pulled until the tires spun, I then noticed it has what sounded like a rod knockings but only at mid throttle, so I thought maybe ignition knock so I tightened up the carb mounting bolts, checked the gap on the plug checked points and wound up decreasing the point gap to about .014 to get the knock to settle down. I put the points back to .020 and did a static timing check and my points are opening at a little past the mid point on the top dead center and the spark marks on the fly wheel. Now the Question??? do you think he may have the cam shaft off one tooth? I figure to have to yank it out and pull the pan to make sure but wanted one of the experts to offer any insight as I don't know for sure. Here are a few pictures and you may be able to see why I could not pass this up at $850 folding money.

If nothing else I would take some finer grade paper like 400 or so and at least make a few passes with the head on the paper to see if you have any nasty highs or lows.

Still waiting on parts to complete the power head, so I started assembling the auger tonight. I'm going to have to give my neighbor a B- for the paintwork. He already completed most of the auger in 2011! The old timer always grades my projects, so it'll be fun to take him down a peg, hahahaha! I know he'll agree. I assembled the gearcase....5 or 6 times. The front sintered bearing was hanging up when I torqued the halves of the housing. It was giving me fits. I almost gave up. Almost...

Not much done today. Not without trying. Fender brackets are in the making.