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First of all I want to apologize for not being as active as usual...had some personal life problems for a few weeks but I’m back and good and ever again That being said on to the topic of this post. This weekend there was a big ranch rodeo in the county seat, and along with the rodeo came a parade. Rodger and I spent several days getting tractors ready. His son in law and two great grandsons took his two seater BN, one granddaughter and her husband took his H, his other granddaughter’s husband took the old Regular, and I took his Cub. First time the Regular had been out in about 4 years and the Cub hadn’t been out in closer to 10. We were the only 4 antique tractors in the parade, and Stephen won the $50 prize for best antique tractor with the Regular.

Found this up in the hill country from an older gentleman. He had for years hardly used it. It was under storage area on pea stone floor. It has a lot of surface rust but the tub has no holes. The tires are original with dust caps also W/Horse logo and saw tooth tires. Pretty cool. I am thinking late 60`s early 70`s. No I.D. tag any ware. I was going roll some paint on but decided to just use Marvel on it to preserve the meatal. I hope you enjoy the picks.

Turning back the pages, about 4 years ago I saw this tractor in a front yard, by chance on a side yard some ways from home. Knocked on the door .. (Remember when you could just knock on a door without constant worry?) but nobody was home. On another trip, late in the winter, I saw the fellow outside and stopped in. This Ranger was out front still, up to the hood in snow. Asked the fellow the story, and he said it was operable, but only in 3,1, and reverse. And that it had a Tecumseh with some recent work done at the time. Came to say I collected WH tractors, and was curious about this one. Said if I could move it out, he'd think of a number.. Funny old guy.. anyway, dug a path from the road to the end of the yard, it actually started and made it about half way out of the place before the rear end quit moving. Gave up on that, fellow said to come back in the spring. When I came back after the thaw, it was gone and the guy had moved away. Two years ago now, sold a little Dynamark to a kid who wanted to make a racer, he saw my WH's and mentioned he had a '701' with the wrong wheels and motor, needed new hubs.. said I had nothing in 1" and to try here or Ebay.. he went on his way and never saw him again.. till now. Long story short, he wrote saying he'd found some WH parts in a Bolens lot he bought. Knew I like the WH machines. Offered me the remains of a PTO leaf vac. Also 'the 701' we had talked about. Sent a picture.. and it was the very same Ranger. After some chatter, he says he got it from the fellow when he had moved through some relative. Belt cover, deck, fenders, and battery box were lost in transit. He says he put new hubs on, got it going, and one by one the gears all failed.. and that it never started right. Well I got it for a great price, and dragged it home.. dropped the trans .. water. Literally got no oil. Not a drop. Just one Chevy hubcap worth of rusty water. The gear shift end was caked in about 1/4" deep scale rust. Grimy old carb, no air cleaner present. Recoil not working. What else to do but throw a jerry can on the old carb line?? Jumped the solenoid and after a hand-choke it lit right off and runs really nice.. albeit in a cloud of smoke. Filled the transmission with diesel.. and after some whacking, got all gears back and working silently. SO.. both these guys managed to get the machine running somehow, and never even questioned why it never would go into gear.. best I can figure is it simply seized up a little more each run. The kid I got it from says it did its last few jobs running in reverse only.. Sad really.. but it does have NOS hubs on both rear axles. Going to place a wanted ad for the various missing bits.. have a few small Teccy's I may combine into one to get it running better... Welp.. there's your reading exercise for the day. Thats the story. Tag says it's an L157.

You are correct...especially if it is about transmissions.

From left to right is the evolution of the small tractor. First comes the simple garden tractor. It is a small garden tractor and easy to diagnose and repair. Next is the large garden tractor. The large garden tractor is more evolved and a little more challenging to diagnose. They are often used for larger jobs. Next and final is the sub-compact tractor. The sub-compact is the largest of the small tractors. They are used for large jobs and are the most complex of the small tractors.

In general, when I see folks asking questions on those Facebook sites I always direct them to this group and tell them if they can’t find the answer here, the answer probably doesn’t exist.

Ain't that the truth Craig! I don't FB and the few folks I pay to be my friends don't either. The few times I have let curosity kill the cat I see they got WH junkies then you got yer banned WH junkies. So what does a person gotta do to join a group? Disrespect someone else? Here I can call EB an idiot, he calls me a stooge and we're both right. Guess what I'm saying here is we all know each other on a more personal level. Question for you FBers how many times would you see on FB "I'll send you that for shipping" or even "it's on me?? Happens here all the time.

Got these in the mail today! 8" front wheel weights & 6" front wheel hub caps. All in very good condition.

A few months ago I picked up a nice little walk behind leaf blower. It looked rough but the nice little Kohler motor on it turned over easy enough so I figured for the $50 I bought for it would be worth it no matter what. Well one good sized burn on my arm and $8 later and now it starts second pull, no choke every time. Well as well as the blower worked, and as nicely as it pushed on asphalt, as soon as those tires hit grass it was like pushing a stubborn cow through knee deep mud. Having a few acres of land to try and keep clear in the woods of New England I knew I had to find a better way. So over the course of the last week my brother and I have been working on a mounting system to attach the blower to a plow frame with 0 butchering of either machine, we want everything to just bolt together using existing holes. We have now successfully put them together, and although it still needs some modifications such as shortening the length of the mount, and maybe decreasing the height slightly, overall I am pretty happy with the design currently. For a quick mock up I think we have a decent design, but if you guys have any ideas to strengthen it, I look forward to input. Ultimately I will probably end up mounting the blower on the 3 point hitch of my C-195, but it is currently occupied by other attachments so I wanted to have a second option for times like this.

Badger Steam & Gas Club has got outstanding club grounds and I have no idea why I don't exhibit at this show. No show this year of course but on the calendar for 2021. Anyhoo they had a swap meet this past weekend and was dang near a show. Dan was supposed to go with but he said no thanks I'd rather go to work! Lots of hit n miss stuff and hit n miss parts galore. I only had a few short hours to walk the flea market and not much for horse parts but a nice way to spend a Saturday morning. Some kind of H N M in a WH carcass. More when I get to my shop and real internet.

Mounted up some V61s for the 1055 and touched up the mounting scratches. Couldn't install the other one... short on wheel bearings. Just gotta have a talk with the parts guy here! These are deep dish style rims @pullstart gave me off a parts Sears he got at a auction. Thanky Kev. Spacer bushings need to made to run them and would have been REAL handy to have a lathe to turn them to lenght. Need to have a talk with the tool manager too!

Yes and no, panzer is a name not the brand, the original company was "copar" aka college park md. The tractors were named panzer, after the ww2 tank the panzer name stuck as the designs kept changing. Copar were the red and yellow ones, the company was then sold to pennsylvania lawn products out of waynesboro va that's when they changed colors to turquoise. The meteor was a later design. Technically I guess it's not a panzer, but a pennsylvania meteor. There is good write up the panzer website on the history of the company.

Figured It was time to build something different. An all out Modified puller. Starting out with a 522xi. I will be keeping the 522xi luxuries like power steering and hydro. But things will change as I go along. Enjoy

Was having a hard time with the krylon cherry red. Either paint was pink or just didn’t leave a good finish. Switched to rustoleum sunrise red as my powder coated parts matched perfectly and love the color. Anyone have tips on the rustoleum, how to get a nice mirror like finish. I know cans are hard to do that with but not impossible. Mine looks a little ripply, (close up pic) which is weird because I did the belt guard and looked amazing.

Jim, if a person has enough desire there is nothing that is impossible. A 6" rim cut in half and attached to those 8" wheel weights would allow the hubcaps to fit like a glove.

It's hard to explain. Most importantly make sure the primered surface is perfect and spotlessly clean. The better it is the better the finish. If you don't get enough on it will be dull, too much and of course it will run. Don't believe what it says on the can about waiting 48 hours to recoat. That's not nearly long enough. I got frustrated with it wrinkling even after a couple weeks so I don't do that anymore. I'll wait until the weather is just right, warm and low humidity. I'll hit it with a coat and just wait a few minutes and hit it again. When I'm happy with the way it looks I'm done. This Suburban hood is done. No wet sanding, no buffing. It got a coat of wax a couple months later.

Weeds grass hint of red Save it for another day Still sits the Wheel Horse

Not a but ... I did shine it up this Sunday.

Anyone else try/use this? Some time ago an Engineer friend that is an avid cyclist told me about using Oxalic Acid to derust painted and chromed parts on a neglected expensive bike he bought, without damaging the paint or chrome. I'm always looking for a less labor intensive way to clean and prep parts for painting, and am really interested in the idea of de-rusting but saving the old paint. This is a mild acid used in products such as Wood Bleach and Barkeeper Friend cleaner. However anytime Acid is mentioned safety concerns should be learned and heeded. Thankfully this seems to be fairly mild stuff. I finally bought some online from Walmart. (sorry about how this displays) This button opens a dialog that displays additional images for this product with the option to zoom in or out. Florida Laboratories OXALIC ACID 99.6% Pure, 5 Lbs, Rust Remover, Wood Bleach, Boat Cleaner and More Average Rating:(5.0)starsout of5stars9 ratings, based on9reviews 10 comments Florida Laboratories $18.99$18.99 One of the challenges to use it is determining how much of the 99.0% pure acid power to mix with water to use....No instructions on the package. Searching the web I came up with all kinds of answers. I finally settled on trying 5 tablespoons of acid power to 1 gallon of water. I mixed up 3 gallons in a five gallon bucket. I've tried a few pieces of scrap metal and haven't destroyed anything. So I had a slow leak in the front rim on my C160 and found an area under the paint rusted through. I know an E-tank will derust this rim for weld repair/repainting. But this seemed like a good test for the Oxalic Acid bath. I'll update this with results!

Well i got the cab. Looks pretty good. Very dirty. Needs a good cleaning. No major tears, windshield is good. Needs 3 windows added but otherwise complete! Time to start fitting it to the 2007. I paid $125 howd i do?

I posted a thread the other day, "What's the hardest thing to do on a WH" and @The Tuul Crib reminded me my hitch is frozen, so I set out to fix it yesterday. I got really lucky. Tried a few taps with a lead hammer, she didn't budge. Slapped it hard in the other direction and it moved! "The level of violence increases exponentially with the difficulty of the job" - My neighbor Dave. Pulled off the left rear tire and I was lucky enough to get it out in about 10 minutes. No heat, no bug juice. Just a big-ass lead hammer and a whole lot of smackin'. The shaft wasn't too bad and I was going to chuck it up in the lathe and take off a few thousands up but decided I didn't want to undersize it too much. Off to the grinder for a wire wheel job. Then I decided to chuck it up anyway, sandpaper and scotchbrite. I also decided to find center so I can use a punch if needed and eased the edge a bit more in case I need to get violent in the future, I'll have a 'bit more mushroom space' (I'm trademarking that term lol) I took this pic just because of those 'cute' tiny curls just laying there. Aww. Buttered the ever loving heck out of it with "silver stuff that never comes off your hands" and called it a day.

Doing some kitchen switcheroo-ing for a friend today. Soon, the dish washer from upstairs will come down here.

Well i sealed the deal and agreed on a price to go pickup a snow cab of a c-141 to fit to my 315. Not sure the difference but hoping i can get it to fit nice. Its a wheel horse brand. Seller says the windows are missing and theres some tears, hopefully i can fix it up and be warm and dry plowing this winter. Excited to go pick it up later

Here’s some results. I checked it last night after about 4 hours and a lot of the rust in the paint was gone and those spots had a dull silvery black look. But the heavier rust inside the rim was still there so I left it till this morning so about 12 hour soak. 95% of rust gone, just a few small area left But you can see the areas cleaned in 4 hours now have a greenish tinge. @ebinmaine the larger cleaned areas on the bottom face of this rim we’re blistered up paint So it did soak through. And remove the rust in those area. One of the negatives to using this or when I tried Vinegar is the Part will flash rust if not neutralized with baking soda and dried. To me this flash rust less than with vinegar, but will still do it. A plus is the water on my bucket is not a rusty mess like when using vinegar so the dripping don’t stain everything when removing a part. As far as safety I finally had to stick my finger, then my hand in it and at the strength I mixed it there was no tingle or reaction. Overall I would say it’s a another tool in the tool box. The 4 hr soak would be a good candidate for saving paint while removing most of the rust and leaving a good surface to wax or clear coat. The 12 hour soak left a good surface to lightly sand and paint color to cover the green tinge. The E-tank will continue to be my preferred method for complete rust and paint removal. As mentioned above sort of only cost a box of washing soda. But I’ve also killed 2 battery chargers doing it. My E-tank barrel sits outside so I don’t have any concerns with hydrogen build-up. I recently got a couple of surplus 12v power supplies and will be interested to see how they last. Like @953 nut I also like OSPHO for some uses. I actually wiped part of the inside of this rim with OSPHO and it did a good job of preventing any flash rust in that area This rim will get a weld repair, then a complete strip in the E-tank. Then a quick trip through the blast cabinet to put a texture profile on the metal for painting. After the welding and grinding. I’ll do a little JB Weld smoothing around the valve stem hole, then prime and paint.

Don't give up yer day job!

The pennsylvania meteor, the ugly ducklings of the panzer world! The wide seats on them always intrigued me, wasn't sure if was designed for "large" person or if you could sit side by side with your lady and cut the lawn

I attended this show in 2017 and posted pics on redsquare. I really enjoyed that show. Lots if neat stuff.

Brought the horse to my soon to be brother in law's house to do some work. We moved a new hot tub on a trailer because the truck couldn't fit around back and pulled out some shrubs. Here's some pics. He couldn't believe how easy everything was today. He's even mentioned getting one of his own.

I’ll let y’all know how this works... but I think it’s gonna be great!

My neighbor gave me a 1989 Toro 521 a few years back that he had started restoring. He had gotten the entire bucket done, just needed to be assembled, then his brother gave him a newer model. So he gave the unfinished project to me. The crazy bastage ordered nearly all the decals too! With winter approaching, I finally remembered (it's been forgotten in the storage area under my house) that I would love to get little beast running in time for the first snow. When I worked at the WH dealer as a kid, I fell in love with this tiny beasts as well. Fun fact: Almost every fastener is 1/2". Remember when they knew how to design things for serviceability? She's greasy and a bit rusty but the power head looks good overall. Since the business end is brand new, I'm going to do a full resto on the power head. I started the teardown this afternoon. Oh look, a Wheel Horse, how'd that get in the shot? I usually replace the friction disc automatically, but man, this one looks pretty good. No dry rot, just a bit of wear. I'll probably replace it anyway for ~$25. This is the old girl she'll be replacing. A 1972 Ariens. I restored her over 25 years ago, use her every winter and she's still going strong. Except the left side shoe. Ooops, must've lost that in the last snow storm. lol

Ahhaa Andy.... kinda hard to run both I best just come get those weights...... 6' caps won't work on 8 inch rims I best take them too !

All is good!

Excellent idea! And with @Achto and @WHX24 suggestion I think you'd have a perfect set up...

No. Where is it located again? I’m not sure, but it’s a cool piece!

My thoughts exactly. If you offroading with it a bigger pneumatic style would be best.

The set up that you have looks pretty good. If there is a way to put a swivel caster on the front of the blower it would be easier to turn with out having to pick it up.

Coming right up fellas. They are water proof and very bright and draw very little power. We also mount them on the back for night plowing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MCWMK9G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are the ones but you'll find more like them too.

Can't dazzle them with brilliance....baffle them with bull$hit....

Don’t believe him Mr. Jay, the only thing he’s heavy on is booze, smokes and WORDS. I see Uncle Jim getting rid of those three any chance he gets

Anymore it's what ever your comfortable with and works for you, there are advantages and disadvantages. Sand blasting isn't an option anymore in my area nobody does it and if they do it's big money. Unless your properly set up it's not safe the breathe that crap in. I am not a fan of the e tanks either, vinager does the same and your not plugging wires in and filling your shed or house full of hydrogen. 10 gal of vinager is cheap and lasts all season

I am am cleaning up some things in the garage and moved out four of the RJs today ! All started up with gas added to two of them. The photo glitch was all me! I have a YouTube account for videos but these were pics. I do need to use the YouTube URL system though on Red Square!!

This was pretty cool ..an older FB engine brought in by another club. They tried to get it running but failed... probably due to too many chiefs and not enough Indians....

Send them to me for some R&D testing ... I will let you know if that little "stock" SBC in the 'BU can ... Had it out at a local cruise-in last Sunday

Good question. The swayed front axle gives plenty clearance for the front tires to clear the deck, and frame and mule when turning hard, but the on frame "mule" pulley for the deck, limits how hard I can turn the wheels, so until I get my act together and switch to a standard mule (2 pulley, non 520 type) I have to live with a temporary bump stop. Ain't done tinkering on the steering yet, so that will be addressed then. Rear wheels clear the deck beautifully. But since it now rides higher, the groove in the middle bar of the deck, that the lift arm goes into, will need to be slotted a bit further back, or the deck cant go all the way down. Or a mod to the lift arm or a linkage could do it too. Not a big deal at all, but that had to be done.

Trick is to get all the gunk out and then run 'em with clean oil... They are amazingly durable. My last one was quite noisy and the "oil" looked like a coffee with too much cream... Did the drain, clean, drain and clean oil, twice and worked like a charm...