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Today I had the longest cultivator attachment in history. I just got into wheel horses about a month and a half ago and I just bought my second one last Friday. The goal today was to add a sleeve hitch, mount the cultivator, and loosen some dirt for removal with my other horse with a snow plow. EASY, right? Wrong. I brought the red swan (you guys will see why it's called this later on) up to my driveway to start work. I've only driven it around the yard a bit, but it sounded like there was an odd noise coming from the drivetrain. After I removed the old hitch (which was luckily not frozen) I decided to check the transmission oil level (8 speed). Well, that doesn't look good. I think I read on here before this is what happens when you get water mixed in with the oil...so out it goes. Definitely glad I didn't just ignore the noise and keep moving forward. I didn't want to just add new oil and hope all of the bad stuff was removed, so I refilled with engine oil from my truck's oil change and started the tractor and ran it through the gears. I didn't want to hurt everything using such a light weight oil, so I lifted the rear tires off the ground. My goal was to "wash" the inside with oil. Even if it's a lighter grade, it's better than water. I did this 3 times until I had normal looking oil coming back out of the transmission, then fillled it back up with gear oil. Now it's time to get back on track and finish that hitch, right. Wrong! While fussing with the transmission, I noticed this. Seems like the clutch pulley was rubbing on the right side of the guard for a while and may have been part of the odd noise I was hearing. I kept trying to reach in and see if I could fix it somehow, but the final verdict is I needed to get closer. So I took everything apart. Shout out to the PO who put the worst bolts known to man on this tractor to hold the seat on. I basically had to un-upholster the seat to get to the back side of the bolts to back them out and have access to the fender bolts. I was able to get away easy-ish with this one, the pulley had a stand-off side and a shorter side, so I was able to flip the pulley around and have the non-standoff side against the pivot arm. It rubbed the pivot arm a little bit, so I used a precision shim (random washer) to hold the pulley out a little bit. The pulley was now a bit closeto the arm and I didn't have much more room to move it out, so I removed the pulley and adjusted (bent with precision) the pulley arm to have a little more space with the washer in place. Before and after expert bending pics below. I put the covers back on and I had space for the pulley. The bolt head may be rubbing on the cover (I didn't notice this until later) but I'm, not to worried as it doesn't spin and only will rub when I put my foot on or off the clutch. Almost there! I also got a rear tach-a-matic recently so I figured I would install it as well. It is a different type than my other tractor, so I am not sure if I did it correctly. There is no hole in the main body for the hitch pin, just a hole in the lever arm. If someone can tell me what I am doing wrong I would appreciate it. I added hitch pins anyway to stop the levers from falling down and hitting the tires. Like this they are basically in the closed position, but nothing would stop me from pulling the lever upwards and opening the mount. We're here! the moment I was waiting for all night! I bet you forgot what my goal was by now, right? By far the easiest part of the night! Clevis hitch is installed with non-wheel horse chain.Someday I will get official parts for this. Now it's time to get the rest of the tractor together. I still have that cultivator to mount! First step is getting the cushion hack on the seat. Finally with seat on (with better bolts, of course) the Swan (notice the hood ornament, courtesy of PO) looks like a real tractor once again. Last step was adding the cultivator. I managed to complete 2/3rds of my goal today. I added the sleeve hitch and mounted the cultivator, but no seat time. Hopefully, I can get out tomorrow and play with some dirt!

Not perfect, but for this beast/project, it is kinda the point....n sure wont slip now, lol

OK...here is what I think is going on with those 10 pinion limited slip transmissions. There are 3 kinds from the sixties...#5060, #5071 & 5073. The differences between these are...the 5060 has aluminum end plates for the differential...the 5071 has steel end plates...the 5073 has steel end plates and a dip stick. From all I have seen, the 5060 & 5071 will have the 1" extension. The 5073 does not need one with a dip stick. The extension does raise the oil level that little bit, which raises the oil level inside the differential which give more lubrication to those floating pinions. The thing we do not know for sure...were these 1" extensions factory, or were they added on to solve a problem. Either way, if I had a 10 pinion limited slip transmission without a 1" extension and no dip stick...I think I would add one. The extension is the only way to know if you have that extra little bit of oil. @WHX24 @ArturHawk @Ed Kennell

I grew tired of filling out those sheets only to toss them away after the show. Now I make a wooden sign for each tractor that I have, I choose to make mine look like the grill of the particular tractor. A little work but should last a long time.

Everyone's experience is different, the below are suppliers who you should further check into prior to making a purchase. Suppliers on this list have been posted about a number of times as having a failed transaction. The sole purpose of this list is for you to make a more informed decision when choosing a supplier of parts and services. As always RedSquare is not responsible for a failed transaction. 1. Brian Miller (GardenTracrtorPullingTips.com)

I got sick of answering the same old questions about my plane at every airshow, so I printed up a two page info sheet, had them laminated and grommeted and hand the pages on the propeller blades. Guess what that has done to change the questions I get. Nothing. And I probably shouldn't say I got sick of answering the same old questions. I couldn't answer them with the same enthusiasm at 5 PM that I did at 8 am. And I also struggle to remember if I've told someone something already, or if I told it to the person before them. I'm sure by the end of the day people think I'm an idiot that has no business in the cockpit of an aircraft.

All pics are from today. This is the 2nd Wheel Horse I inherited from my grandfather. A '72 Raider 12. Not the prettiest, but it's back to work. I mowed with this one at my house about a decade ago and it worked well. Now it's spinning like a top. Work done: Oil pan gasket; New ignition system: Dave Kirk Transducer Ignition (2nd one I've installed, all good) and yellow plug wire; iSavetractors new coil and points; New ignition switch. fixed/cleaned/lubed/patched wiring; cleaned up regulator/rectifier; Facet 1077 solid state electronic fuel pump; Replaced head and head gasket; New Champion plug; Valvoline VR1 racing oil 10w-30; Fresh 80w-90 tranny fluid. General (not thorough) grime cleaning. Added Gibbs oil to all bolts I unscrewed. QUESTION: Which model mower decks work for this model? I had an old beat up one that I'd like to replace. Cheers.

Thats what I did just to throw on Dan's hand me down boards.

Some remove the shifter lever and fill thru there. I actually screw a 6" pipe nipple in this angled hole and use an old outboard motor lower unit pump to pump the gear oil in thru a 1/4" tube.

Lol. Pullstart That wasn't personal. I couldn't delete you off the post after accidentally quoting you. Oh I know about the rivals, even as die hard Ford as I am, there's a Corvair for sale in my front yard bc it was just cool. And in addition to my 2 big Ford tractors I'm in the process of acquiring a JD A model. But I grew up on a Farmall H. I'm trying to get away from cars and trucks and swap to tractors. I'm up to 2 antique pickups, bronco, and a firetruck. I just restored a Ford 960 tricycle. But one step cheaper, smaller, and easier I've gotten into GTs. I have my favorites, but I love anything with an engine.

Horizontal muffler on this one? If yes take a rubber mallet and tap on the muffler to see if it has a rattle inside it or use your fist. Have seen the end of the inlet pipe inside the muffler burn off which leaves the end cap loose inside there. It will rattle around and end up covering the hole in the first baffle where the exhaust pressure holds it there. The result is restricted exhaust and they will not rev up. Shut the engine off and the restriction falls away from the port so it runs decent until it gets over that port again and the restriction returns. They run good but will not rev up. The inlet pipe inside the muffler has a series of holes the exhaust exits through. The end of the pipe is capped. The hot exhaust burns the pipe off in the holes area leaving the end of the pipe and cap to move on to the next baffle where it plugs the hole in it. Garry

I would pull off the fuel line into the carb. Hold it in a container while you or a helper cranks the engine. If you get a good spurting fuel supply, the problem is in the carb. If you do not have a good spurting fuel supply, pull off the line into the fuel pump and see if the fuel runs freely from the tank. You see where this is going....you must have a good supply to the carb. If you don't, you must find the problem. It could be a bad fuel pump or bad filter, or blocked line or clogged fitting in the tank. One easy thing to try is loosening the cap on the tank. The vent may be clogged. The tractors with the fuel tank under the seat (below the fuel pump) can be hard starting after sitting as the fuel leaks back into the tank and the pump looses its prime. I am guessing your fuel pump is bad.

and I like the model with zerk fittings.

Just got home, a very interesting trip, the guy that owned it is amazing, will post more later. Need a cup of tea, it was only ten hours on the road, but that's long enough.

Thank you all for your feedback on this supplier. This discussion has prompted me to create a new links area for non-recommended suppliers. I am going to lock this thread, as the point has been fully made.

Greetings folks, I want to thank all you guys for chiming in on your problems you faced with Brian Miller's dishonesty and neglect.....This was the reason for my posting my problem.....and it worked. Sorry to hear that you have lost your money and parts as I have......Please forward or copy and paste my first post to anyone you know so as to get the word out....We are all over the country and this is the only way to make people aware of Brian Misser screwing people.......The only plus is the information he has on his site......This is the bait to get us to send him our money......Thanks again Have fun, buckshot

if it takes you all the way to the end of the day to get that far you're quite a ways ahead of me. I was already there at the very beginning.

Hey; GoodMorning & thankyou, Jim! I dunno bout gettin the hang of it toooo well tho, lol...i seem to be (i think) ok at making them look better/a certain way...but mechanical stuff...jury's still out, lol. Long story. I need a teacher, lol. Again, thanks...your comment made this day start off on a great note, here! I consider it high praise😊

I don’t hate Cubs, I’m just not as familiar with them and it’s fun to jab a rib once in a while. You’re in the midst of a group of ladies and gentlemen who just plain have a great time becoming great friends all because of a common interest of old garden tractors. It takes all brands (even Deeres ) to build strength in design and performance along the way and this era of the 50’s-70’s when there was so much innovation is just fun to explore... plus these are still a fairly a cheap hobby in a roundabout way!

No extensions on any of my trannies Jim.

@ibbuckshot I have never had any financial dealings with A-1 Miller and thank you for this information. The site has a lot of great information on it, sorry to hear they are dishonest.

Now i know what you means with heim joints, i don‘t know the Association between, they named here differently, about their advantages there is absolute no doubt. I used them on my Sicklebar Project with greasefittings. but i need a inbetween step to fix it until i get the other horse or until i have the heim joints here. So i must do an interrim solution to fix things without right parts i was stopped at 1/3 of the Area i have to mow. Satelliteimage don‘t tells me a relaxing sunny day‘s.. No Crash, so all is good, thanks to the Lord who protects me.

Figured out what was wrong. The solenoid and the neutral safety switch were both bad. New solenoid installed and bypassed the safety switch and it cranks over good. Next few days I will put the tank and battery back in, pour a little gas in it and see how it runs. Still may have to rebuild carb. This one is starting to grow on me. May look into a new seat for it. I have the original but its in poor condition.

How did you send the money? Hopefully Paypal and hopefully not through the "friends and family" option. If you sent it right, PayPal will get you your money back.

Granddads reply when my Dad asked him how many stones we needed to build the new stone house we were planning. Haul until you think you have enough, then haul that many more. Now you have half of what you will need.

Nice score Scott! “Frank” is a Charger 12 mainly... great machine!

If you have a good local engine machine shop with reasonable prices I would say go for it. Buying a GOOD used engine is a short term answer, rebuilding your engine is an investment that will be well worth the money. This thread will give you some good information.

Actually, I don't like to mow with the twins Eric (520s and 417s) as they throw too much bloomin heat. I like the single 12s for mowing in this heat.

You need another 520. Or a dropping extender mower like Mick

@ArturHawk I follow the same method that Bob does. As far as checking the level if it doesn't have a dipstick... No leaks, no problem. I don't know the technical reason for having the extra half quart in an 8-speed when it does not have LSD but I always figured it was something to do with the high low shifter and as stated above, a little extra oil is certainly not going to hurt anything and a gear drive transmission.

It probably would, but the terrain is really rough and a 60"er would really be throwing sticks, dirt and stones as I have to keep the deck down to get under the bottom wire. Plus, I don't mow with my 520. She is a dedicated snow remover with a heated cab.

I believe you'll find that the extension is factory Steve. It's part # 943322 and is simply a 3/8" x 1" NPT nipple then add a 943003 coupling and a 943420 pipe plug and you have the factory installed extension. I think I'll go buy a bunch of the three items at the hardware store, paint them red and make a fortune on Ebay I haven't had that plug out of any of my transmissions for decades. I swear by the latest (but old) spec sheets that state 1.5 quarts in the 3 and 4 speeds and 2 quarts in the 6 and 8 speeds. I can't see that it would hurt a thing using 2 quarts in the 3 and 4 speeds. I only have one with a dipstick. I had it apart to check out so it was bone dry. After adding 2 quarts it was dead on the full mark. I fill through one of the seat bolts or the dipstick hole with one of these squirty bottles.

I'm not much of an expert on the 80s or 90s vintage horses. All of the ones in our herd at home are older. From what I understand the 200 series such as that 264 is what would be considered a lighter duty lawn tractor. The 300, 400, 500 series are a heavier duty garden tractor. There's nothing inherently wrong about using a lawn tractor instead of a garden tractor as long as you understand the limitations and that you buy it knowing the purpose it was built for. Mowing and very light towing. You can also plow smaller or lighter amounts of snow with them. if you want to get into something that is a little more heavy duty and the implements have more cross-compatibility you should be looking for a 300 or 400 series. you'll get a more heavy-duty transmission and implements and be able to use it in the future for ground engagement work such as rototilling. You're in a good area to be shopping for horses. They're far less expensive down around Pennsylvania and New Jersey then they are up here in the further Northeast. You may want to throw a want ad in our own classifieds and just keep an eye out for a week or two...

@ArturHawk Is your Raider 10 a 1969 model 1-6041?? You are correct, the fill plug is what you go by if you do not have a dip stick. You should have the #5071 LS trans. You put oil in the trans until it starts to run out that hole. Having a 1" extension there would raise the oil level about 1" in the transmission, thus ensuring plenty of oil to lubricate those pinions in the differential. The fact that you do not have one there would tell me the extension is not factory, but a certain fix for issues for that trans. I would get a 1" extension from ACE, or TSC and put it in. Just like the picture Jim used above.

i was able today to fix the Pushrod with a simple Screw. drilled a hole in and use a M8 Screw to fix it with a selftaped nut. Not a nice solution, but it works so far for the Day. after i finished mowing the Area at least i get Today my Rainstop for the doorwindows and i mount it. good Day today. Ok, Blades needs a resharpening.

thank you dave and bob, after removing the seat,fender pan, floor board and belt guard i found this: the drive belt tension pulley was bad. the bearing in the middle was MIA! all that was left of the bearing was the inner bushing! i adjusted the linkage according to the manual and all is well. i feel as though i dodged a bullet! it has a 13 fin K341 engine. pics enclosed. regards mike in mass.

The mechanic at the garage next door to where i lived gave me a 61 Rambler Classic, with a leaking head gasket. Worse engine AMC ever put out the aluminum inline 6 cylinder.

Shortly after I joined this forum some 7-8 yrs ago I came upon his website and was simply blown away at the huge amount of information there. Huge site covering a WIDE variety of topics, well written, with pictures, drawings, and offering a variety of difficult parts for sale, etc, etc. I still go there occasionally to glean information..... But... I soon started picking up complaints of - difficult/impossible to get contact, LONG wait for work that was sent, difficult/impossible to get part or money back, etc, etc. Really a shame, the guy obviously has talent, and the occasional lucky person that gets his work back gives praise. And it would certainly seem there is plenty of work out there (theres enough right here on this forum to keep him busy!!) I have two crankshafts now that I would like to have turned, but there is no shop anywhere near me that does that kind of work.

I think only the limited slip trans use the extension.

Nice to see you are getting the hang of this horse business Jason. Keep up the good work!

Most fuel system problems are the result of using gas with ethanol. That junk will ruin a fuel system. Use this site to find a station that sells gas without ethanol. https://www.pure-gas.org/

There is some one in my area that brings one of those to tractor shows. If we are allowed to have shows again some day I'll get some pictures.

I went to an auction in Flat Rock, Indiana several years ago and there were two Elec-Trak Forklifts for sale. One of the Forklifts was sold with an electric Wheel Horse! Posting for reference. The tag for the Forklift says the forklift weighed 690 lbs!

Careful now... Them folks in Cheesconsin... gotta watch em... Curds... that’s the currency up yonder... best cheese in the world... Although...Always seem to get some whine with your cheese...

Those heim joints are the way to go on a tractor that gets consistent heavy duty or aggressive usage. Using my Patriot or Cinnamon in our forest I'd get just a few months and the stock style ends would be noticeably looser. I built a set of 7/16 heim joint rods for the Cinnamon Horse. They've been on over a year now and they are just as tight and free moving as they were when new.

The two with the painted nuts and bushings have been used for thirty years. The other two are new with threaded 1/2" studs. I took two off my C120/180 so i would not have to drill out the steering triangle on my 520-H.. Then put the other two treaded 1/2" on the out side steering arms of my C-120/180.

The ones that fit.

Here's the 550 ... not too shabby! Solid seat pan could suggest a early '60

Let's try this again. Just paid for 2 years

If it's the way the block hangs over the frame and appears to have two unused bolt holes. Those oil pans have 2 bolt that thread from the bottom of the frame up into threaded holes in the oil pan on that side. Very solid mount, but confusing if you don't realize those bolts are on the bottom side.