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I found an old box of Nicholson chainsaw files the other day. 4 new ones still in the box for $12, really cool box. I would love to know how old if any of you have an idea. I don't really do much wood cutting but a good file is a good file! Here is some pics.

A customer of mine was getting rid of his old tractor and wondered if I might be interested. turns out it is a one owner, garage kept d160 automatic with snow plow, tire chains and lawn sweeper, also 48 inch deck. 16 horse Kohler starts and runs perfectly , hears the catch. Won’t move or lift deck on its own power. When you open the hydro, it pushes forward and reverse no problem. Just will not move on it’s own. Just got it home so haven’t put any time into it yet. Coupler between engine and hydro pump looks good. Can’t be sure if pump is spinning, plan on starting there. Any known issues? Looking forward to the process of getting this beast moving

Okay I read over everything again! And I got it I didn’t use the same hollow nuts from rear to rear I just went and changed everything and I once again can lift everything! Thanks a lot guys for all the help!!

That would be what I call a Commando 6. I call mine Jane. Jane rocks! For being such a light tractor, Jane tugs hard and don’t give up! Jane is a Tecky powered machine... but with a Kohler (carter) carb.

Already did build them! 😁

Decals finally came in! (new guy here btw). Big thanks to www.redoyourhorse.com for the decal kit, and Lowell at wheelhorsepartsandmore.com for the hydraulic hoses and cylinder rebuild kit. Started restoring this 1977 C-160 several weeks ago. I'll make a separate post with more pictures and challenges throughout the whole project, so this just a preview I guess. This is my first restoration, and I can't thank everyone on this forum enough for the help I've received. Thank you to everyone asking questions, and thank you to everyone answering. I can't believe the awesome community I've discovered here, just by picking up an old Wheel Horse rotting away in a barn! I no longer think this will be the first and last of my collection... Anyways, here's a little before and after. Decals went on excellent today and I got to do a little cruising around the property.

All you gotta do is take these parts from the Sundstrand unit that has the hyd lift and put them into the EXACT same ports of the replacement unit you have. NOTE... you have switch the HOLLOW plugs too...not just the internal spings and cone valves. Put the SOLID plugs back into the donor tracotr

I'm working on rebuilding a 5060 transmission to swap onto my Commando 8. One thing I needed was a new input pulley. I needed part number 7232, which seems to be pretty hard to come by. The 7232 is a 4" outside diameter, 5/8" bore with key, and a half-inch belt. All the new, off the shelf pulleys I was finding, were all designed for 5/8 and 1/2 inch belts, none were 1/2 inch only. I stumbled across a company called Phoenix Distribution. They are out of New Hampshire, and claim to make a whole assortment of OEM pulleys for all the big companies out there. I looked through their site, and happened to come across the exact pulley I needed, offered in the 5/8 & 1/2 combo, as well as offered in the 1/2 inch only like the original pulley I was looking for. Just got the pulley in tonight, and it looks great, exactly what I needed. Just thought I'd pass this along, in case you are looking for an odd pulley that you can't seem to find. Their website is Phoenix-mfg.com

Since this thread went the route of catch all horse BS and general chit chat ... sorry @Ed Kennell.... got some cheap magnetic backing for @Vinylguy's fine fine dealer stickers and made some. Mandatory yer tractor sports one at our plow day.

I WON'T be posting a pic of my file drawer! Randy

That box does NOT reflect on how the rest of the shop or my life for matter is!! I have been working on going through my tools and cleaning them up, organizing, putting new handles on hammers and such. I can't do heavy work anymore, but sitting around is hard on my back too. I find puttering around keeps my joints loosened up, I like the quiet time in the shop!! Randy

All ours are older Horses with very simple wiring harness. I've done at least 5 complete harness builds. Easy enough to do. Just take your time and keep verifying the work. Replace a wire or small group of them. Verify operation. That way it's easier to find errors or bad grounds if one happens.

Owners often get the wrong ignition switch for the application that needs it because they look almost identical. Often wonder what the consequences would be once the key is turned. Here is the chance to find out. Garry

Last night I did a leak down test, since Saturday it decided not to run, basically at all, ran chocked, kind of, and would backfire if you tried to de-choke. Leak down was at about 55%, and it seems to all be out the exhaust valve. Time for a valve job I guess. I also ordered points, condenser, plug, and coil since most of that stuff is either visibly ready for replacement, completely unknown age/brand/quality, or literally stolen off one of my cars.

Make sure the belt is sitting on top of the lower edge of the belt guard which must be installed. No belt guard no shift....

Two nice bow-ties while out and about today... 1968 1969

Looks like it was red under the lawnmower green paint job. My C-125 is badged as a Mountfield and was originally red. It's up to just over 200 pounds so that's around the price I imagined . May try to bid on it as the little brother or sister for Fred. Mick

Shes in the skip again! Loads of rubble and stuff to get rid of. I spent the day levelling the base for our block paving so I can get it put back down while the weather is cool. Once thats down Fred can drive straight in and out no problems. Mick

Try shortening the PTO engagement rod. Pull the hairpin clip and turn the trunnion 1 turn Clockwise.

I put up a few more boxes yesterday. It looks like the corner lot is the choice location. One on the box and three more perched in the trees.

Going to be fun fixing the rats nest of wires.

Well... Field testing complete - works like a charm! Nice to be able to move our 1972 boat around without the car, cranking my neck etc...!!!

Those boxes with green labels are usually from the mid 20s to the early 40s. Before that some labels were a type of yellow. A lot of files were used in that era so a lot of them were produced, Nicholson being the biggest US Manufacturer of files. They took over many smaller companies also. They should be very good since they are US made stock. Later on 70s and on I believe they started making them in Mexico. Anything that old I always get specially if they are triangular files for handsaw sharpening since they are only really good for a few sharpening s on each side. Those files in the boxes originally came individually wrapped in a thin brown paper. They should be kept that way and not allowed contact with each other since that will dull them quite fast. No file should ever be knocked around with others. They have cutting edges just as a chisel does.

While I continue to wait on USPS to bring the transmission gasket and hydraulic hoses from Lowell, I applied the remaining decals.

You are the real MVP! I did a search but did t find these! Looks like all the info I need and the axle itself is a bit of a job.

Cool! Looks familiar...

You have to adjust the PTO clutch for proper tension on engagement and also the big knob on the mule drive for the belt tension as well, the belt stretches over time and there is no spring loaded idler pulleys on the engine to mower belt you will have manually check these periodically best to get yourself both the mower and tractors operating manuals if you have not already done so.

did a spot of drainage

todays update... Managed to remove the seized hitch pin with a lot of heat and a big hammer - easier than drilling, but a lot of heat needed. Had to grind end where it was badly peened before knocking through. before dropping transmission. RH key was rusted solid - so more heat and a big punch, pieces shattered off! four oil seals ordered and ready to split... tempted to put a diff lock in this one - but I think time is against me at the moment. Despite being on lock down for 8 weeks

Mike, I made a press brake for making a curved bend. I twas made from angle iron, round stock & some scrap metal that I had lying around. Replacing the round stock with angle iron or a heavy bar at a 45 degree angle you would have a press brake to make 90 degree bends.

Picked up a HF 20 ton press today. Been watching a lot of youtube videos on modifications made to these to make them nicer. I completed my first mod today, a boat winch to raise and lower the press bed easier, and i have to say it works really slick. Got a knob ordered for the pressure release valve so i dont have to use the jack handle (anyone with one of these presses knows what im talking about and how big of a pain it can be). There is a metal brake that can be added to these (aftermarket) that looks really nice but i think i need to save my pennies for that one.

Look at the Sunstrand Manual in the manual section here. you have to move stuff on a piston to piston unit when you add a lift.

I say get it so we can see you fill that new garage up you just built. Then we can watch you dig out an addition !

@squonk @oliver2-44 @jabelman @WHX24 @953 nut @ebinmaine @Stormin @SylvanLakeWH @pullstart 20200513_174812.mp4

Wheel Horses with some of us is like Hotel California they can check in anytime they like , but they can never leave.

I got some new tools from amazon over the past week or so and I got the stubborn crankshaft pulley off the GT-14. I started to mount the manual clutch and still have a few modifications to make. I used the bearing separator and puller combo and it worked great! All the pullers I got were OTC very good quality and good prices too!

Shorts, I just let this one go for 18 cash with no attachments except the 48" deck. 1335 hours. Every single thing was replaced, restored, or rebuilt- down to installing brass bushings in the hood hinges and overhauling the gear reduction steering for no play. New, correctly installed intake seat, all cooling system improvements, remote oil filter, custom paint, brand new Brinly hitch, custom patina paint, etc... and every single thing worked except the fuel gauge. Horses arent as common here in NC, and while the older stuff brings a good price, the pointed hood models still can be found very reasonable. Post up a couple pics of yours!

there.s a build thread somewhere from 2014

@LandoCommando214 My Cinnamon Horse is a 74 C160-8. Great rigs. Looking forward to seeing more pics and the whole thread. No need to wait on starting a thread... Lots of us do threads while building. NIIIICE tractor!!

For my first time ever welding anything, I'm pleased with this repair. Both sides were split clean through, then there were cracks which had to be welded shut than ground down. It's not pretty and I'm only happy with two little welds where I got the heat and speed just right..but with the reinforcement plates it should hold just fine.

Managed to snag the original seat pan off the 855 today. That'll be paired with the excellent cover Bob Ellison made.

90% there..

Broke down and got some new deestone D405 26x12-12 tires for my D160 and for the price I really like them, though they do seem to run a little bit smaller but just barely. Going through the woods in my back yard is about 14 acres of muddy rutted trails and the D goes through like it's on tracks now 100% better than the old turfs.

Most likely a mule drive adjustment but someone with way more knowledge than I will be along to give you better advice.

Loaded up the 1277 loader and 310 and brought them to town for some dirt work. Had a hundred year old tree taken out a few years ago and the front yard had really humped up over the years. We hauled about 4 pickup truck loads of dirt out, moved more around then reseaded. I took an old scotts spreader and added a hitch made out of conduit to I could pull it behind a tractor. We also used it to spread sand on my heavy clay soil to try and loosen it up a bit.

My eyes!!! Please save that poor tractor lol

Your first step should be to remove the flywheel cover and clean out any gifts that mice and bugs may have left behind. Once you have cleaned and tightened ALL electrical connections including grounds you can do a little step by step trouble shooting. The kill relay has no impact on the starter. Your Solenoid (picture below) should have two large wires and one small wire going to it (if it has two small wires one must be grounded). One of the large wires is connected directly to the battery. Take a small jumper wire from it to the small wire on the solenoid, it should close and the starter turn over. If the starter worked then you can move on, if not then you can use a jumper cable to go from the battery "+" terminal directly to the starter to see if the starter is functional. Let us know how you do with this.

Like Eric said,take your time.Also use the correct gauge wire and try to keep everything color coded.I've seen people build complete wiring harness's and use all the same color wire.Real fun when you have to trouble shoot electrical problems later on.

Careful there... Someone could accuse you of maybe being a neat freak or something.... 'round our yahd ( @pullstart that's Maine speak for "the land we live on") we prefer the older machines... But I love the super rugged look of the 'rat.