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Cleaned the shop this after noon and pulled the DeSoto in for some much needed attention. The U-joints are binding and the E brake doesn't want to stay on. As dirty as the oil is I'm thinking it's still got Non-Detergent oil in it. If working on the creeper goes well I might pull the pan and clean it and check the rod tolerances. I'd like to get it on Detergent oil. Oil pressure is a good 45 lbs at idle so I don't think they are too loose. Here it is in the shop a little bit ago.

Well thanks for your response on the engine paint. I attached a few pictures of the painted frame, wheels and rebuilt engine. Funny how tiny the frame is without the hood and fenders.

Had a pretty good turn out for what is going on right now. All sorts of tractors and garden tractors

Another new member, got my second wheelhorse the other day, a C 125, as a restoration project - it's so much better than my other mowers (Murray, Westwood and Lazer). We are down near Dumfries, any other members nearby? Cheers, Dan

I spent 40 years in the automotive steel wheel industry as an engineer. The chamfer on the lug nut holes and lug nuts is there to retain lug nut torque. The chamfer also serves to center the wheel on the hub. Mounting wheels brake side out probably lead to loss of lug nut torque during use. JainVA is correct about how the lug nuts with captured washers work on his F250. The design of the lug nuts and captive helps insure the lug nuts stay tight. There is a pretty good chance I was the press tooling engineer on those wheels. When mixing stud sizes and bolt hole sizes you want to make sure the lug nuts do not bottom on the face of the hub instead of the wheel. When using automotive wheels on our little tractors, we can get away with doing things that would cause catrastropic failures on cars. The light loads and low speeds our tractors operate at is why we can do things with wheels that would be absolutely unthinkable on cars. Remember, if you are running automotive steel wheels on your tractor, the preferred mounting orientation is brake side of wheel towards the hub. If you are using wheels mounted brake side away from the hubs, be prepared to check your lug nut torque frequently and inspect the mounting area of the wheels for cracks when checking the lug nut torque.

My wifes uncle dropped this off this morning, he was going through some old hats and decided it needed a new home. Very nice condition, local dealership.

Lately got a C-125 with a K341 engine. Initially not sure whether I had the ability to dismantle and rebuild the carburetor. Got in touch with Eric (ebinmaine) who gave me very detailed instructions on how to go about it (Thanks again Eric!). I attach such instructions at the bottom of this message. For anybody else thinking about undertaking such task here is some additional info: my K341 is a service engine (spec 71179), and its carburetor assembly number is: 4505320-S. Such assembly impossible to find. Toro does however provide a Kohler carburetor repair kit, its part number is: 2575702. Such repair kit can be found on Amazon. The details of the corresponding Amazon webpage are: Kohler # 25 757 02-S Engine Carburetor Kit K301 - K582 (ASIN: B0014CCA0Q). Can be delivered anywhere in the world thanks to Amazon Global; very cheap at £13 including delivery ($16 at 16 march 2020 exchange rate). I also found an extremely detailed and clear webpage giving a detailed (with photographs) step by step procedure for disassembling a Kohler carburetor (see: https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/kohler_half-inch_g230500_carb.asp). Here are also Eric's instructions: "I agree that the needle and seat should be replaced, especially if the needle is rubber tipped. Disassembly: Fairly straightforward. I don't generally remove the main jet in the bottom. Only the needle into it from the top. That jet is most always WELL stuck in there. Otherwise, simply take apart whatever you can. The needle seat itself can be unscrewed with a nutdriver or a socket ground down to fit in the tight spot where it goes. Cleaning: Gently scrape off whatever big stuff you can. Grass, dust, dirt, oil or whatever.... Small screwdriver or wire brush and be gentle. I REALLY recommend a soaking kit if possible. Auto parts stores that sell things for older carbureted cars could help. 2 popular brands here are Berryman's and Gunk. I normally soak for a day. Clean as above and also spray through all the passages with either brake clean or carb clean. Soak it again for a day and repeat the cleaning process. It usually takes a whole can of spray cleaner to properly clean the passages. Maybe 2. Reassembly is also straightforward. I've had a few carbs that I've cleaned 2 or 3 times before they were running right. Don't get discouraged. Just repeat the process." Posting everything here as somebody else may find the above info useful.

Red with a clean cylinder head, fuel pump, carb is my preference. It keeps a somewhat stock look. Cylinder heads and carburetors are air cooled and paint takes away from that.

This is a pic of a 1977 C-120 that I bought from the original owner and good friend. I did replace the coil which I still have and was red. The only items that were painted after I bought it are the wheels, seat back, seat mount and front of the rear hubs Regal Red. Hope this helps and good luck with the restoration. Great Tractor.

Now I'm tracking, you can make a tool.1/2" pipe cut a slot in one end , drill a hole in the other, put a cross bar. This way the hole in the fender can be small. Here you go, just made one for mine.

Oh I almost forgot more Horses!! Alot of these were from my friends billy orr and dennis ott and the photos i started this thread with!

Larry Nothing wrong with that at all far as anybody here is concerned. Problem being is if you weren't there in South Bend in 1976 or the original owner who knows what is painted what as original what with the things that have been done by PO's over the years. I've seen carbs and fuel pumps come painted but then again plain. All in all the carbs & pumps and were mostly plain tho. Some ignition coils are red some are black. A good rule of thumb would be every thing red except for the carb and pump and coil. Can't go wrong there as long as it's red! Flywheels were never painted and K series screens that were black were almost certainly done by a PO. For the most part the entire motor was shot red. Gotta remember in the day to save money they weren't going to monkey around with different colors. The partially assembled motors were all hanging on a moving conveyor belt at Kohler and whirled by a paint gun wielding guy who was going to shoot them whatever color the paint line was set up for that day. What came out what depended on the assembly stage of the motor and what spec # they were building. Pretty much bet on one color tho. Others will be along to welcome and offer help. They are not going to be as nice as me tho they are gonna demand some so be warned!

Here is a few more photos of the other items there

Boy did we get a bunch done on the project today. We spent pert near 8 hours. Trina was disassembling, grinding and painting like a disassembling, grinding and painting madwoman. All to appease Mr. Norman @Stormin Here's proof of how much priming and painting she did today. Note the interesting sunburn like color tone of her arm. That's paint. Washed right off. She even had red hair for a little while this afternoon. I rebuilt the transmission... and helped her here and there moving things etc. I want to say thank you to @stevasaurus Steve for making your transmission videos. Here's a few pics of the transmission: Empty. Carrier and wheel bearings removed. Cleaned up and ready for reassembly. Gears all cleaned up and waiting to be reinstalled. I did have to grind about .002 off the side of a woodruff key so I would have the right size. Took me two attempts but the second one worked great. These next two pics show how I was able to remove the carrier bearing. I experimented with the bad one to make sure it would work before I screwed up a good one. I owe Lincoln at A to Z tractor I thank you for this idea. @A-Z Tractor Carrier installed. Wheel bearing installed. Ready for reassembly. Good to have extra parts laying around. When I got this bugger disassembled I discovered that this reverse idler gear has seen better days. It would have worked okay but I had another one in the shed that was in better condition. Here is all of the internal system reassembled. Ready to drop the top case half in place. Note the super long axle... Fully assembled and ready to be wire brushed. Part way through the priming stage. And here it sits on the bench happily drying overnight. And... here we have another Wheelhorse mobile hanging with paint drying. Note the copper dash plate. The pictures of this just can't do it justice. It looks fantastic. The two pieces on the outside are the reinforcement brackets for the frame. Trina painted those a hammered bronze color to keep with the theme. If this steering shaft looks a little long to anybody it's because it has a 1.5 inch extension welded into it. my little perfectionist wasn't happy with the roughness of the welds so she took some time to grind it a little smoother. I mentioned to her that we wouldn't be able to see it. Her response. "It's awful. It needs to be fixed." These next two shots show the steps and the bottom of the steering column support from a couple different positions. Really nice bright red. Hubs have been primed. Here's a better shot of the copper dash panel that Trina took specifically to try to bring out the color.

Tastefully done tho… Couple of the clowns here would have just duct taped some blocks to them and told their young'uns to go mow!

@Larry P.! I do everything by the book too...

Really how many do find these day WITH it! Techy aside that's worth the price of a ticket right there...and what's not to like about that original dealer sticker! Nice Job Ed

I'm not sure that is the best idea. If the goop let's go then you have pieces of metal flying around. Plus you may be adding to the vibration of the engine/drive line as now you are adding weight to one side of that pulley and spinning it around at 3600 rpm. I would just get a new one for $20.

Oh and I took a photo of this old car! It wasn't apart of the tractor show but it was in the building with alot of other cars. This one caught my eye i really liked it!

Some old tools and a tobacco picker! I have quite a few old wooden handled screw drivers.

And here are some of the old farmalls and a newer case IH! Also go check out my YouTube channel I have a few short videos on there from the show! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRboR0C2UE6bqALxax3_h8A/videos

The old John Deeres! As many of you might know I grew up my late dad was a giant Deere fan and so am i. I own 8 deere garden tractors.

Here is a few trucks a old douse and a half,a 1950 ford, 1948 jeep, and an old hudson!

Well done Trina. Surprising what you can get done in 8hrs when you try. Well done Trina. Keep and Be finished by the end of the month.

Got a project tractor running today. Then gas started running out the air cleaner... I made the hole a tad bigger with a dental pick .. goin to try and solder it up just for the halibut..

Did some more work in the shop today, had to go to Oklahoma City yesterday to work on a friends car, so I stopped at Harbor Freight and picked up a few things. I have recently began stocking my shop with bolts that I buy in bulk by the pound at our local farm store. Got tired of driving 15 miles every time I was in the middle of a project and needed a nut or bolt. For quite a while I had the whole assortment hanging on the wall above my bench in freezer bags. Picked up a couple of these wall mount parts bins yesterday, makes it so much handier when I need to grab a bolt. Also moved some shelving around as well, still trying to come up with the best layout with the limited amount of space I have to work with.

A neighbor called and asked if I wanted a WH tractor. This Raider 10 is what I found behind his garage. I offered to fix it up and sell it for him, but He said he didn't want paid for it...he just wanted it gone. I told him about the Big Show and suggested we donate it to the WHCC for a raffle . So, I contacted the WHCC and they have agreed to accept it for the raffle. I have been working on it and got it running pretty well. It starts one turn and runs with no smoke. It does need some choke and searches at low speed. I will continue working on the carb. It runs great at WOT. I have had the deck apart. The tensioner pulley and slide were frozen. They have been replaced. The spindles bearings feel OK, although the deck is pretty loud and has a rust thru spot. It does run in all gears and mows well. Got the lights and even the cigar lighter to work. It is all original paint and tires. I had to patch a tube in one tire. They have some cracking but all have good tread and now hold air. I painted the wheels. The tins are really good and straight with only minor rusting. I did some rust removing and cleaning. Here's what she looks like today. If the Corona doesn't cancel me or the Big Show, we will be there. You could win a Raider 10.

Trina is smart she can paint rims and her toe nails at the same time without going to the beauty shop, unless it's @ebinmaine toes................

No idea on that Mike but I do have a 867 original with their sticker on it!

Thats the one. I think thats what I paid for mine arould 20 bucks. Believe it or not that one isnt even the coolest engine cooler I own.... check out this one... cooler / lunch box.

@Larry P. Found another pic of the 77 C-120 upon delivery with it's original paint for you.

So here are some pics of the 3 vises I restored this winter. Also restored an RCBS A2 old school reloading press that I will use for swaging and at some point sizing 50 BMG

Absolutely not its a trademark of the H.H.!

The cigar lighter working is for sure a selling point for me... not putting down the machine, I just like my cigars at the big show when cruising around

Still navigating through this forum. Was hoping to post pics to my profile but seems it only allows a profile pic which is from the listing that I purchased from on the marketplace. At any rate here's a few to quench y'alls thirst lol

Or have him sign it?

What show is complete with out the old hit and miss engines!

I have talked many times with Roger over the years he is a great guy! Unfortunately he is in a wheelchair now. He normally rides these old bikes around the show.

The featured tractos Massey Harris and Massey Ferguson!!

Some odds and ends I have a local friend who owns an avery got to meet the avery club nice group of folks! Nice silverkings. my daughter lilly had fun she is my middle daughter. in highschool now. oh boy! LOL And check out the chopped allis!!

There was a few more olivers but i didnt take photos of them!

Ouch!! Wheelhorse semi!

A GE Elec trak!

@Jaydubz83! Seems Maine is taking over the forum lately, all kinds of fun content from y’all! We’re glad to have you aboard, and

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Crikey, just looked back over my messages about this. I only really started on 15th Feb. So only a month to get this far. And that's only doing odd days here and there. I can definitely afford to take a breath and look at my options. Cost wise self mixing is the best option, also I can do things at my own pace instead of having a cement truck driver wanting to drop it and go. I will keep you all updated. Mick

Haven't had much this year and I'm ok with it. I don't believe we're running low on moisture content because of rain. Ironic thing.... In the last week of January remember I went and bought that nice brand new high quality snowblower? Used it what? Twice since? Meh.... It's all good It'll be there next year......

I'm going to take a step back and have a good look at the space now the area is clear. If its necessary to shift some more soil I'd rather do that than wish I had in a few months time. There is no rush and it might be better to let things dry out a bit more after our record rainfall. Still plenty I can be doing, electrical sockets, lighting to sort, shelves and brackets etc. Plus I'm really busy with our toad crossing. Its migration time and I'm out every evening rescuing toads from the busy road outside our home. Mick

If you RE-power a DE-Soto, would that become a ReSoto?

Your project is coming along nicely. Looking forward to seeing it completed. Where would we be without wire hooks to hang things on while painting? Been hand sharpening bits for most my life but now that the eyes aren't so good it's getting really hard to sharpen the little ones. Don't know what a drill doctor costs but I suspect that a bunch of small bits can be purchased for the price. Going to look into it though.