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Just send it to me with the dimensions and holes you want and I will have my wife glare at it and make it so.....

Just wanted to share this thread from our sister site My Old Machine. A scaled down metal working model build. Everything hand made from the tools used down to the tiny screws.. This is true talent and craftsmanship with dedication to this art. Be sure to scroll through and check out all of the pics and descriptions https://myoldmachine.com/topic/2786-downsizing-in-metalwork/ A shameless plug, check out the Ohlsson and Rice section! Become a member on MoM

I would guess this was done by maybe original owner, it is under the seat pan. And one could add any additional info like type of motor oil/ any additive and type of trans fluid and a separate strip with dates done. At next change interval peal off and replace with new dates.

WHO DOESN'T LIKE 857 PICS! HHHOOOWWWAAARRRDDD!!!

A cheap way to drill hardened steel is to use a masonry drill bit.

Jim 857 is a go to worker of mine! She a got new axle bearings this winter and maybe a motor refresh next winter. Time for some 857 pics! Just one of the many great things about RS is the way the pics just pop at ya not those itty bitty thumbnails like other sites! Did I mention the fellas like their pics here Mr. Walker?!?!

@Willlawre I'm not sure what you are talking about with this receiver & hydraulic stuff...maybe this. The rear hitch for an RJ looks like this, and it is very possible that a member here may have one on a shelf. A cable is attached to the lift lever and goes to where my hand is holding the receiver. The side plates hold the receiver in place. I don't think I have ever seen hydraulics on an RJ. An HY-2 hydraulic set up came out for the front engine round hoods in 1962 and were available on the 7hsp models. They do make a belly blade and a single blade plow for the RJ's. Yes, they have enough power to do the job, but just know that it is like having a VW 4 cylinder compared to a Chevy with a 427 cu in 8 cylinder. Don't ever feel like you can't ask questions all day on this site. A lot of us just lurk here most of the day waiting to help someone. At times, it is like a race to give the answer first.

I should put some stacks on my daughter horse. this is what i mow with in my park. I mow my yard and my neighbors. Got new blades last year from jake kuhn mows like a dream

It might be better to let the brake pawl be the "wear" part and there by save risking damage to the transmission gear that is doing the grinding!

Working on a winter project, using a K181, and trying to test start the engine I ran into a problem. At times the starter would not engage or engage and crank slow Oh the battery was dead...nope. Looked at the solenoid, actually jumper-ed the solenoid.....nope. Rechecked the grounds to the engine and battery connections...all okay. Now I am focused on the starter, took a hammer and gave it a few light taps...still no change. I left the hammer laying on the starter and decided to try it again and the head of the hammer was between the frame and starter frame...spark city. As it turned out, I had painted the engine and starter separate, then assembled when dry, there was enough paint to cause a bad connection. Buffed off the paint on block and starter mounting area and she started like a new one. One would have thought the bolts would have made enough contact....nope! I know a lot of people here refurbish engines and just wanted to pass along as an area not to over look.

MIKE,,,,,WHEN I NEEDED A NEW EDGE,,,,I STOPPED AT THE STEEL SECTION IN LOWES.....WAS IS HARDENED..?? NO !!! BUT IT WAS ABOUT 30.00 AND RIGHT THERE IN FRONT OF ME............HOWEVER !!!!!! I WAS AT THE DUMP ...MAN WAS DROPPING OFF AN OLD WORN DOWN EDGE FROM A PICK UP TRUCK....YEP.....7 FEET OF HARDENED STEEL.....IM GONNA CUT IT WHEN WEATHER LETS UP IN THE SPRING..48 INCHES AND 4 HOLES.....I WILL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT PANS OUT......DROP SAW SHOULD DO THE TRICK,,,,,BUT A NEW HARDENED BIT MIGHT BE NEEDED FOE THE 4 LUCKY HOLES..!!!! FILM AT 11 ...................

To all, Thanks for the responses. I thought it would be 80 or 90 weight oil, more like the rear end on a car. As an aside, the tractor was my Dads back from 196-67. I probably starting mowing the yard about then, it has lasted thru a few Ohio homes and is now with me in Florida. If I can keep it running I will give it to my son. 8HP Kohler engine, I have the dozer blade for it also. May run forever.

Here you go @SylvanLakeWH! My Regal Red dump creation!

Your engine differs from the manual and is normal for a Wheelhorse. Looking at the screenshot of your engine I made... BLUE dot on the NUT you'll be ADJUSTING. Red arrow pointing toward the "arm/tab" that moves. WHITE arrow showing direction to move arm to SLOW engine. Check engine RPM. Determine which way to go with the tab. Loosen nut. Move tab. While tightening the nut the tab will want to move back so watch it carefully. Small adjustment can mean alot. Repeat as necessary....

Simplicity 9020 was purchased from a neighbor, seized engine, snow thrower and a 3 point tiller. Engine was replaced with another Onan of the same vintage, This is the fourth year on this engine, other than adjusting the ignition points and changing the oil no other maintenance other than an electric fuel pump. Fell in love with the 9020 then when an Allis 720 became available with a blown hydro, purchased it as well. The 720 came with a mower deck and the Arc front end loader. The hydro drives a three speed trans-axle, blowing through a drift I'ill use first gear, light snow cover second gear. Driveway and walking trails.

This is brutal.

I've had carburetors I've had to take apart and rebuild two or three times before I got them quite right. Your issue is that the inlet needle is stuck open. You need to take the bowl off and clean out the needle and seat below the float. If you didn't already do so, replace the needle and seat. If they are new, you should be able to just clean that carburetor over again and quite possibly solve your issue.

We got 'im boys !! Another addi.... Uhhh.... Wheelhorse appreciator....

Should be hardened. Yes. Only the vendor can actually answer that. I've heard it both. if there is a metal fab shop near you they would probably PUNCH the holes and slice off the end for just a few bucks.

I got a decent nutsert gun at Menards, I think for less than 20$

Well I don't normally watch this crap but I did this year. The only thing that caught my eye this Deere in all chrome except someone should have did the inside of the rims. Lil nas x and the yodeling walmart kid. It was the highlight of the stupid show to me. LOL

You mean there was a tractor and music on the Grammy show. I must have been distracted....or dozing off.

Just found a loophole. It says no strenuous activity, but I don't think testing spark is strenuous.

Gotta like this statement... I never painted the hood because people like to use them as little work benches sometimes …. Was he talking about you Kev??? I don't know @bottjernat1 1k ain't the worst but it better be somewhat complete, run good and the tranny needs no work. The foot rests although not correct are quickly becoming rare and command serious $$. Yes please refrain from posting CL links @Willlawre The idea behind that is the mods and members don't want the open forum to become a CL free for all! We let all newbies slide once tho. Any horse pics you happen to find on the internet may be posted for inspection. I like 'Apples suggestion of hunting for a C-160. should be able to find one in your price range. I know I have stupidly passed on a couple of dandies for way less than 1k. A C-160 is beast of a tractor and can handle anything you could throw at it for a chore tractor on your small farm and then some. Attachments are easy find as well.

I struggled the first time I set the max rpm but went to a method that works quickly. Use the dash throttle control to set the rpm you want. Loosen the bolt and pivot the L-bracket so it is up against the linkage. Snug the bolt up. Lower the rpm and bring it back up to max rpm. Check the rpm. Make further adjustment by tapping the L-bracket back and forth with a hammer and punch or lever to pry it. Keep checking max rpm. When you get it zero'd in tighten the bolt a bit more to hold it. Garry

Couldnt agree more. We all come from different tastes, abilities, free time and wallet size, including the judges. As far as bringing something to ride, I wouldnt attend without one haha. The ol 520 I just partially restored/custom'd has been put back to work, but it'd certainly turn some heads, and all she needs to be ready would be a good bath. The real gem id like to have ready will be picked up hopefully this weekend- a 654 with a lot of patina, and no engine. That will be a pulley swapped play toy, and I have a few powerplants sitting around, just gotta decide which one its gonna get. Will quit here or my 'squirrel' A.D.D. will take this thread right off topic haha. Really hope to make this show!!

Giving Big Ugly a face lift.

Sorry dealing with other issue been a long day ive appreciated all the help ive had on here this afternoon its been excellent. And appologises for so many questions new to this and am looking to make a purchase by next month

That sure is purty....spensive. But then again, ya can't put a price on cool.

Had some storm damage with a large cedar tree. I finished pulling the limbs down with the Toyota. Used the Wheel Horse to get the generator and saws out there. Then hauled two trailer loads to the brush pile.

I have an issue with throttle on my electro 12, when I pull the throttle out when running it does not stay. As Soon as I let go of it it goes right back to an idle. And it is very touchy, does not take much pull to make a big difference and then it will be really cranked up. Only way to keep throttle out when running is to keep a small pair of vice grips on it. Everything seems to be in place, all linkages return springs and so on look to be correct. Any thoughts of what I am over looking.

Ya wow! Maybe we dont have it so bad eh?

Let us know you can make it Green... gotta couple of vintage Colemans for ya... well maybe not vintage vintage but old enough! Don't be afraid to take things off topic on BS threads.... no not Big Show... the other kind of bs.... threads like this. Now if a fella has a got a sick horse and there's a blizzard coming or grass up to his knees different story!

Just my little scooter

Cut 8"" off one end with a 4 1/2" X 1/32" cut off wheel. Then drill new holes to match.....in the plow blade.

I did, actually ordered them the same day someone suggested them...i think it was ebinmaine. Those will be part of the project

Here is a video. This is my B-100...10 hsp Kohler.

@Willlawre , I recommend you take a look in our "Manual" Section on the main page. Check out both the RJ's in the tractor sub section, and the implements in the implements sub section. Those will give you a good idea of what is available, what it looks like, and how to attach it. Eric, I grossly lied about my weight. 250lb is a target at the ,moment.

Seat safety switch is actually installed in the seat between the pan and foam cushion (very expensive to replace) approximately 1.5-2" wide x 6-8" long with black and orange wires ... The neutral safety switch is under the instrument panel ... And yes the Molex if still there is usually under the battery box ...

@oilwell1415 yea that's exactly what I was thinking just a little 4 foot small box scraper is all id put on it. @ebinmaine yea I thought it might be fairly light but with the wet heavy snow here in becket ma you gotta go out and snow blow every 4" that comes down So even if I gotta go out and plow every 4" that comes down at least it'd be in style

I would agree with that. In fact, I was just about to post that a big limiting factor with an RJ is that they weigh less than the later models. Weight and traction are going to be huge issues for plowing snow.

whow, quickpaint.. 😂😂😂

I'm new to this stuff as well, but it doesn't sound like you really need hydraulics for what you are doing if you go with an RJ. Just mount a 3 point to the rear and connect a link from the original cable actuated hitch to the 3 point. I doubt any implement you are going to be able to use behind an RJ is going to be heavy enough to need hydraulics to raise and lower.

You can always add some ground pork to make burgers. We like to add some Worcestershire sauce to the meat when mixing, along with any pepper or seasoning you like. When grilling most meats other than bird, I was taught to only flip it once. Grill it, spin it for some cool marks, flip, repeat.

I like the stacks. Can’t wait to see Billy Ray mowing the trailer park with it in their next conglomerate video!

I looked up an engine I thought I was familiar with but the parts are not circled so don't apply to this spec number. The items around #13 are what I would expect to see. The spacer is stepped so the moving lever fits over the small end of the spacer and pivots on it. https://www.partstree.com/models/k301-47421-kohler-k-series-engine-made-for-norcar-12hp-9kw/governor-tp-2097-25/ The L-shaped bracket shows holes in both ends. The exposed one could accept a screw driver so it could be twisted to achieve the desired position to get max rpm limit. I don't recall seeing holes in mine. . A second page for remote throttle shows the parts also but I did not compare part numbers. Circles apply to the listed spec number - 1977 C-120 https://www.partstree.com/models/k301-47421-kohler-k-series-engine-made-for-norcar-12hp-9kw/remote-throttle-24-10-10-tp-2097-7/ Garry

Well you see, I have moved it forward to the point that I’m happy with it. It’s all about the proportion to the sketch! Here is some progression with my fancy jig work to see how it moved forward.

$750 should buy a nice C160... Just sayin..

I just ran across this post. Love it! So here is a '34 Ford I built from a firewall in 2004. The rest of the cab was hand built. A Studebaker bed. Chopped 3in, channeled 5in, Z'ed frame, independent rear. Powered by a 350 with 3 single barrels on a dual quad high rise and a 350 turbo