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We haven’t had much snow this season. So, I had to take what I could get for my grandson’s first snowplow experience. Having a great time!

Needed a sheltered spot to put 520 with cab and blower on days after snow so as not to put it inside full of snow, so I came up with this hinged roof on side of shed. There is already a similar one below where the Electro with plow is. Basically 7'x10'.Simple construction only two 2x10s ripped into square pieces for frame, 3 roof panels from Lowes, 3 stainless hinges, a couple of cables and turnbuckles to square frame and to provide an adjustable crown up front since there is no middle support. Two adjustable legs saved from an old tent and its done. Convenient and out of way when not needed.

I have struggled for years with a cheap crimper I bought years ago. so many times the wire would pull out of the connector. Got a Klein ratcheting crimper and a stripper for Christmas. Just started using it on the GT-14. Think these crimps will hold..

Shortly after Jim's @WHX24 plow day I was cleaning up my trailer to get it ready for a fresh coat of sealer on the deck. While I was cleaning I noticed this nice little surprise. Last weekend I pulled the deck off to get a better look at what had happened. Well things looked even worse on the under side. Seeing this reminded me of a car trailer that I looked at that was built out of tubing that had the same issue, Nitro boat trailer were built with tubing and also had the same issue. Lesson in life, don't buy or build a trailer with steel tube construction. Well mine is unusable so nothing to do now but turn this. Into this. Stand by for the building of my new trailer.

I’m picking this one up this week. 2016 Tundra TRD Off-road package in Wheel Horse Red !! It’s a Toyota certified truck so it comes with a 7 year 100,000 mile drivetrain warrantee that starts the day I pick it up and a 12 month bumper to bumper warrantee. Dealer installed 4 brand new Hankook tires, brakes and a new battery so I should be good to go for along time. Also this dealer offers free oil changes for as long as I own it and free batteries as long as I own it

Did a little patch work on the 520-H. Somebody had run into a couple of bolts with the lower hood, or it may have been the same bolt twice at a different place. Busted the paint and was rusting. I ground off the paint and knocked out what I could get. Filled the area, didn't quite get enough area filled. I didn't have any regular filler so I used BJ Weld and you don't put any extra on as it's hard to remove. I'm not building a show tractor. tring to stop the rust and make it look a little better. Don't use JB Weld for filler unless you have some good Gator Sandpaper. I also knocked a dent out under the right head light I got most of it. I painted the red and put a heat lamp on it for a couple of hours then painted the black after lunch. Lowe's had some Troy Buit Red that I tried looks to be close to Toro Red. I'll see what it looks like after I get it out side. I know you want pictures so here are a few.

One and all from the May you and yours have a good one.

Happpyy New Year everyone!!!!!

Ended up with a good 10'' of snow out of this storm, brought the 520 out for a little exercise today.The sleet mixed with the snow made the Onan work extra hard though.

My son is in town from the University of Utah for the holidays and I put him to work on his old clients!!! In this instance I didn’t mind losing the seat time...!

FINALLY got enough snow to start the 520 and try out the new to me deuce.Not much 3 maybe 4 inches but still. Unbelievable for WI this is the first appreciable amount of snow this winter! 200 miles to the north they have almost three feet. Just a day ago on Sunday temps were in the 50's! Dan @Achto you get to try the 145 on the sidewalk?

I was wondering if it has a recoil start if the battery dies? Seriously Kevin, looks great and should be sweet for hauling the girls around. Congratulations 👍

Any pics of the weed eater motor??

Slim to none. We didn't just slop a deep dent full of filler. That would indeed have the potential to separate over time on a surface that is flexing heavily. By hammering out the dents first as best we could the fillers coverage will be minimal once sanded. I see two common mistakes typically, the first is people have the tendency to sand out the repair they just made (removing too much). To help prevent that use a flat surface to wrap the sand paper in (sanding block, piece of wood ect.) Do not use your palm if sanding on a flat area palms are mushy and conform to the dent sanding it out again. Check frequently with your hand by running it over the repair you should feel no ridges and the outer edge should have a feathered lighter look. The second mistake is going from an aggressive filler strait to primer then paint. you will see the repair if the time is not taken to layer it properly. One other thing to note. Metal is always more preferable. What I mean is if you can replace a damaged panel "on a car for instance" that is a better repair than filling it. However costs, availability, time, they're all factors. Sometimes you just need the old hoopty to pass inspection and get you through another winter. Tractors are no different.

Also received a new, reproduction Cub Cadet steering wheel that will be modified to work on the RJ.

Thank you, I removed the paint the best I could with abrasive wheels namely the poly carbide, wire wheels etc on the pot metal items like the transmission and axle..I could have gone chemical with aircraft paint stripper to get in the pits but it is too dang cold out for that nastiness. The primer we used on those parts acts like POR-15 in that it can be painted over rust so you only have to remove the flakey stuff. There is a catch in that you have to paint it within a few days for the two to bond properly.

Not too shabby.

Halfway through a chassis up resto on my 91 520H, I yanked the heads to do a decarbon and bet you know exactly what I found. I had a speed shop for awhile and still have some equipment, I have already fabbed up adapters and will be cutting in oversized seats right on the tractor and thought this may be of interest to some. Sometimes its not how we get there, its knowing what the end result needs to be and finding a way to do it. On another note, this 1308 hour, obviously poorly maintained P220G engine was otherwise pretty impressive! Bores are beautiful, guides are tight, valve adjustments were within a few thousandths (aside from the zero lash rear intake, indicating the seat issue). Note #3- As an experiment, I warmed this engine to operating temp, ran it up to 2200rpms, and trickled half a bottle of seafoam right down the throat, shut it down, let it sit 30min, and did it again til the bottle was empty, then ran the hell out of it for 15 minutes. Look at the carbon in the pic, or lack thereof! No I cant conclude the seafoam did this as I do not know the maintenance history or 'before' carbon, but judging by the rest of the tractor, I highly doubt the heads have ever been off it. Anyone else ever tried this?

Happy New Year to all!!!

336 pounds.

Hello, your 56 looks great, I have made RJ35 rear axles in the past, I have a bunch of videos how I repaired mine on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3P8ZZZb5rq0 You may have to copy the link of the 2nd vid. Hope this helps, Vin

She moves the powder alright! Sometimes too much.. if one is not careful with chute direction she'll blow it right back over on the driveway 50 ft away! going to "build" a drift later just so I can stuff this beast into it and move it again! Love to hear that Onan work!

'70 Chevelle SS is still one of my favorites!! A buddy had one when we were in High School in '78. LS6 454 with 4.11 posi rear. Quickest car I ever rode in!

Yes I agree but will add that being born in 1971 that the G body I have was from seeing it new on the showroom floor in our small town dealership All the things that made the late 60s/70s can be done to my late 70s early 80s rides.

You won't need the warranty. I was looking at Tundra's but they were about $10,000 more than GM. Plus not fond of the newer interior and the crappy seat that bother my back. Love my 2013 GMC with the Lazy-boy leather Ford? Don't make me laugh. We got Fords at work. Complete toilets.

Thanks to Terry (Vinylguy) for the great decals and sign!

@JCM thanks a bunch for sharing those pictures. That beastly one ton with the utility box on it is now almost 20 years old (which puts it into the “antique” status here in Wisconsin! It feels weird to think that for me because 2001-2 only feels like a couple of years ago! i know I posted this one a few pages back but this was my dad’s oldest brothers truck. He bought it second hand in 1974. It was two years old at the time and became his daily driver. I remember riding to school in it with my aunt and five of my cousins!!!! Those were the days, who says you need an extended cab😂? Anyway, that truck was pretty rusty by 1982 and dad did a bunch of bodywork on it and painted it. These pictures were taken a short while after he had finished it. In 1990, my cousin managed to roll it on some icey roads only a mile or so from home. That truck seemed old to me at that time and it was only 18 years old. My current daily driver just turned 25!!!! Time certainly is relative. so... @JCM I really like the look of all those Chevy’s and my guess is that both @pullstart and @WVHillbilly520H are going to be fans when they see them too. I have always liked the A-body GM vehicles (partial to GTO’s as you guys know) but there are few things cooler than a 1970 Chevelle SS LS6. That seemed to me like the epitome of the musclecar era. Hard to imagine in just a few years the American auto industry would be struggling to field a vehicle with 200hp and styling that rivaled a cookstove in appeal🤢! Thankfully in the last 10 years we have seen some vehicles that can excite the emotions again. For me though, the musclecar era produced the most soul stirring vehicles ever!

Santa came a little late, but at least he brought me something nice

Well well well... It’s awesome! Jada snuck the button and shut the traction control off on me, it’ll roll a tire or two over!

Body work lesson #1 don't paint over dents. Good illustration of why this tractor needed some love. Story goes the tractor was parked at the top of a 20 ft hill and either popped out of gear or was never left in one. It proceeded to careen into the side of my parents house bending nearly all of the grill slats. Name of the game if you are attempting a repair like this is to minimize filler. Take the time to hammer out as much as possible using a flat hammer on one side and a heavy dolly on the back to support the metal as it's reshaped. Avoid hammering the dent itself and instead focus on the outside edge of the dent and work your way in. Start with light to medium blows until you see how the metal responds. There are two types of filler shown in the picture. The yellow is thicker and coarser for building up larger areas it will need gone over with the pink later which is much finer. Once sanded these will need primered.

Had a hot rod pinstriper paint the hood letters.

Lowe's here is selling this Gator Sandpaper. I bought the 1/4 Sheet about a year age, it's the best sandpaper I have every used . On wood it doesn't ware out like most . Once it fills up just tap it out and it still cuts I don't know how many time I have used the same piece. It even cuts JB Weld. I haven't tried the flap sander, but if it cuts better then the paper I wouldn't try it on thin metal.

It's every bit as beautiful in person.....

If you look at the top of the transmission case you can see how much of the original paint was taken off. Eventually everything was done to that same level of removal prior to paint. I do agree you dont want to build it up too thick hence the single stage and no clear.

Hehehehehe it sure doesnt take long to acumulate extra eh Ebinmaine. about a decade ago I got rid of a whole bunch of chevy small block engines and tons of everything that went on them. Well actually I was pressured into doing it sadly.....even an origional SBC with a blank numbers block from I think 1955 or 6, origonal 265 cu, in. origonal paint you name it. There sure is some stuff I wish I still had. Im so bad for saying ....one day I know Ill use that with everything......I was told I had a disease.....I forget the latin name for the disease but it sounded like I had hooping junk collecting caugh lmao.

I used one of these and it turned out great!

Sounds like you have it well designed for your use Dave. I built my 24X32 pole barn with boat storage and maintenance a factor. I poured the concrete floor with a taper to a central grated pit with a drain. I frequently run water cooled outboards and wash down boats and vehicles. The pit collects any debris and makes it easy to lift the 2'X2' grate and clean the drain cover. It also works well for clean up after deer butchering as my hoist is directly over the drain pit. The concrete is also necessary for my fab work...welding and grinding. It's all about designing it for your use.

My son in law drives an ‘18 Tundra and loves it.

My buddy is a contractor and we talked about the type of wood floor to use in the woodshop, specifically about fluid contamination. I was worried about water more than anything else. I wanted to use 3/4” T&G plywood that I could paint or apply some kind of finish. He recommended a 3/4” T&G OSB product designed for flooring. He said he has seen plywood delaminate after a soaking by a leaky pipe and he had great results and no call backs with the OSB made for this application. It has a resin impregnated into it to make it more resistant to infiltration by fluids. I will definitely keep an eye on the gas/oil saturation issue. Truth be told, I’m only going to have a couple garden tractors and other light power equipment stored in my shop when not in high use. I have some trays/pans/tin and cardboard catch basins for those kind of things, but well worth mentioning and paying attention to. There was a fellow on Craigslist that has used 1.5” rigid polyiso insulation for sale for $8 a sheet. It was used under flat roofs with rubber roofing placed on top. I bought 40 sheets from him for my walls of the woodshop. I’ll cover them with 7/16” OSB so I can attach cabinets and fixtures to the walls with screws. I’m going to get another 35 sheets from him in the spring to finish off the shop. My roof trusses are 4’ on center. I plan to spray paint one side of the insulation panels white latex, them trim the panels to size and drop them in between the trusses for an insulated ceiling. This method should give me a white reflective surface for effective lighting as well as continued and easy lift-out access to the roof area for additional wiring, air lines, etc... The 2’ polycarbonate panels we installed at the top of each side wall do wonders for letting in natural light. I don’t need to pay the power company for light during the day! Happy New Year fellas! Dave

I have a 12x8 garden shed I converted to a magic shed and when I built it I just used three sheets of regular 3/4 treated plywood right over some treated 6x6's buried in the ground and everyone told me it was going to rot out right away. 30 years later holding up well. Couple of tractors I had in it peed 80/90 all over it and soaked into the wood helping to preserve it I believe. Smart man! Now they have steel panels with a felt like coating on the bottom side to keep condensation off.

If what you have works for you don't mess with it. I have to use chains and lots of weight...

Love mine 2018 Tundra! All I drive ,since 1979 love them ,never had a problem with any of them. I have the 4.6 L plenty of go I get 18 to 20 highway, maybe down south on flat land. You made a great deal. Bob

Now that's impressive !

I made up a plastic side panel to close in the left side. Three magnets hold it to the inside of the grille panel top and bottom and rear of the hood. Added rubber bumpers to keep it away from the flywheel screen so it can still get air. Stops about 95% of the snow on an M12. Black plastic is Crazy Snow Carpet toboggan. Garry

70 SS one of my fav cars ( had two )

Great trucks the Tundra's all in all .. have a 2010 with the 4.6L with 127k on it. Cant beat the Double Cab setup with the 6.5 foot bed along with the 8,000 lb plus tow capacity. Great for medium duty towing and makes it real easy for Horse collectin' .

Oh there's a list, Pete. It now runs after a points clean up and setting. And sweetly after a warm up and carb adjustment. Carb seems to be a plastic one. Works OK though. May need a new HT lead. Doesn't look to good. Drove it in and out of the workshop ok after blowing the tyres up. Doing that let me know the rears are water ballasted. Wee'd on the floor. I also think the brake needs attention. Stops dead when you depress the clutch. You can push it about easily though. Another steering wheel is on the cards. It has a 'eck of a wobble. The steel insert in it is very loose. The shaft is fine. Engine oil will be changed and trans drained, flush and refilled. Some nice cream in there. Gear lever boot is practically none existent. Axle seals etc. etc. etc. First thing though, is to sort out the charging system. Cos it isn't. Electrics not my forte and my tame electrician is currently sunning himself in Spain.

Springer seats take a Lot of the bulk away for swinging the leg over The low back seats are another good option. This does remind me, I need to add a jounce pad of some type to Frank. His seat spring is mounted “backwards” like a Cub Cadet and I have pinched my leg plenty on the transmission tunnel. If the seat didn’t come down so far... that wouldn’t be an issue. I see a seat spring like @Achto‘s McLean some day!