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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/14/2019 in all areas
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9 pointsI replaced the S/G belt, cleaned the carb, changed fluids and what better time to take a ride in the moonlight!
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8 pointsI have been trying to thin out my tractors, and going "bigger". I have a couple of Farmall Cubs and a Farmall B, so I have sold a few garden tractors recently to make more room in the shed for those 3. But, I ran across a 2006 John Deere X720 when I was looking at a 2004 Cub Cadet 5252E. Both were at the same price, but the Cub Cadet had too many bad reviews on that model, i.e. bad transmissions, faulty wiring, ptos going out, etc. This one had only 227 hours, but I was a bit leery of that number. So, I was going to stick to my plan - no more garden tractors. Until the dealer salesman, whose dealership is merging with another one and needed to reduce inventory, knock off $700 off the John Deere since he knew me and knew I was sort of interested. Wife said you will regret it if you don't get it, so I now have a X720 SE sitting in my shed next to the Farmalls. I haven't decided yet if it will get the limited category 1 3 point hitch or not.
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5 pointsInteresting little post card type thingy - all 25 pages. 1917 Ford_Plant_Postcards (1).pdf
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5 pointsIt's a 72" plow it started out as a 54" but of course I had to make it great again LOL works good because my driveway is 350 ft and I run full speed with the plow at an angle turn around and come back really keeps the clean path
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4 pointsGrabbed some seat time today and gathered some wood! Ahh! Sure does feel goooood! 6D6E7368-C460-47BC-8736-E7012B985B2F.MOV
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4 pointsI bought a 1985. O6-42ST04 Wheel Horse Snow Blower today from a fellow Red Square 🟥 member in Indiana! This is the nicest. Snowblower I have seen in years. Well stored and taken care of and ready to attach and work!
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3 pointstower this is 747 wh, request landing! Holy crap....2 driveways at once, I dont think my chevy Tracker would bush that beast! Looks so rad though...........hey outta the way, comin through hahahahahah.
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3 pointsDang! Another big issue was solved. Because new road safety check was my first issue, i have to fix it up quickly. So i begun today to disassembled the „newbie“ Firstly harvesting ol Parts out as in the old. The Steeringwheel pops easily without any force down the spindle as it should. - nice... because of big storm and several hard rainshowers, it was not too funny work with open door. than i decide to wait a bit whilst looking at Weathersat, a good choice i did. in this time i investigate the old spindle a bit closer. Here you can see the blasted Ballbearing, what gives the clicking ratchetsound and the weak steering. in a Windfree 15 min.later, I reinserted the Spindle and fixed it up. easy to handle if you did it in right way. first mount the Cardan shaft on the lower side, tan insert the whole spindle, fuddeling onto Steeringgear and - tadaa. Tightening the Screws and bolts all on the Spindlemounts and it‘s time for a Coffee ! after that coffe i reinserted the whole switches, knobs and the Transponderantenna and change the Keylock with the old one. i‘d just like to have one Key for the Car. Remount Steeringwheel and - done! after that i reworked the left side Brake ( but here i had no Picts, i‘m in a weather hurry.) after all work is done, i took a one hour Testdrive, even a headed onto Autobahn. The new „reworked“ spindle works very smooth no irritations can be felt, even at 178Km/h it Runs fine like a Gentlemen. the turns make fun and i‘m close to ready for TÜV. what a great day, now Snow can come... 😎🤔😇
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3 pointsMoved the rod of the plow trip springs into the top hole because it was a little too flexy in 2nd from the top. Would love a 1-3" snow event to test her out. And then installed a new head gasket with the bolts torqued to 20ft-lb, and in proper sequence, of course
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3 pointsPeter: I used chain lube on everything I could find. Hooked up the lift assist spring today on the flag. I had the old version and the new version lift flag with the spring. I use the lift assist spring on my tiller and I think it is heavier thatn the snowblower. When putting on the lift assist spring I has to use narrow wall washers to allow the eyebolt to clear the lift flag hole. All set now and she runs pretty powerful with the 14 horse Kohler Magnum as compared to my Lawn Ranger with 32 inch blower and a 6 HP Tecumseh. This will be my first winter using a full sized 42 inch snowblower on a wheel horse tractor. The bog snowblower clears my 314 front hitch also (which I was thinking I might have to remove to fit the blower on).
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3 pointsto ! @19richie66 is doing a Yanmar 2 cyl diesel swap on a GT-14, and he is beefing the frame up to handle the added weight. I'm not sure what his weighs, but I would assume it is lighter than yours. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to beef it up some.. Seems like a lot of weight for 80 ft.lb of torque! If I were going to install something that heavy, it would probably be an aluminum 5.3 LS.. It would have 300+ ft.lb!
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3 pointsLooks like your horse head hood badge is laying down on the job.
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3 pointsPriorities, man! Carb’s cleaned, oil’s fresh, transmission is next!
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3 points
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3 pointsTerry: A very interesting history lesson on the Ford Motor Company plant as of 1917. A friend of mine in Greencastle has a 1917 Ford and interestingly that year the company quit using brass in its radiators and other parts as the World War I requirements for brass took precedent. 1917 was the first year Ford made a pickup truck also. Here are a couple pictures of my friend's 1917 Ford.
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3 pointsI got a nice Christmas package from Wheelhorseman yesterday. Got it all installed today. Made a trip around the property to see If I got evert thing back together just before it rained.
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2 pointsDo you see what I see. Picked up this Junker last night and to my surprise, an electric lift.
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2 pointsI am thinking about putting a large marine Saab Diesel engine into my wheel horse 314-8. Will the frame be able to handle around 450 pounds of engine? I am asking as I have never seen it done due to the scarcity of the engine.
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2 pointsFYI, Lowe's is also a Craftsman dealer. Just in case you wanted to start them out with the same tools that dear ol' dad uses. To mark the tools to keep them separate, you could either engrave them or run a paint pen over the recessed letters then wipe over the top. This leaves the lettering colored and still looks neat & clean.
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2 pointsI do it like my Dad did, i purchased them the same Brand of Tools , i use myself. They got it piece by piece and trained, to keep an eye on their Tools. a First own Toolbox or if space available, a small Toolcabinet will also be a cool. I use Vigor Ratchet Set from EKQ (here it is Stahlgruber) Gedore wrench Set‘s some cheap Wrench Sets and Makita drills. I let the Vigor Sets laser engraving with the initials of them, because i had the ability, so a „hey thus is my ratchet“ was simply prevented by engraved name. 😎 But a simple Colorpoint in different colors can also do the trick for what is who‘s.. plus, they had their tools still further and had good quality Tools. That was allway‘s Whow Gifts for christmas and Birthday‘s. I just purchased Tools on their need. That was the expensive Way i know, but so they had whenever they using their Toolset good quality in hands plus a memory to Dad. 👍 each year is a birthday or christmas and over the Time, they collect a well usable Toolset. When i purchased the Makita‘s i talked to our salesman where i normally buy and get a real cheap offer. i purchased for me the BHP454 and for the Girls the smaller lightweight edition, because if they need a Drillhammer, i have a bigger Hilti, they can borrow any time they need, because i know they didn‘t rape it.
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2 pointsI was going to suggest HF too for entry level. If yer gonna turn my girls into full fledged grease monkeys tho I would also suggest a cheapy tool chest? Unless you go with a set in the blow molded case. The Home Cheapo thing ain't a bad idea for a stocking stuffer. HC used to have Jimmy Johnson selling Kobalt so they can't be all that bad. For 15 bucks they leave a socket under the hood on the plow field like Dan's wallet, I never do that, nothing lost! I think you need to snuggle up to the Missus and produce a few boys tho! That way they can come spend a summer here and I can teach them proper shop organizational skills!
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2 pointsI guess it‘s allright at this horrible speeds... 😂
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2 pointsHere's my 520 with 54" moving snow just a couple years ago...
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2 pointsMud is my slang, for drywall (Sheetrock) fill, for mortar, for anything really that I have any input for mixing wet and waiting for it to dry thanks for the compliments Norm! MUD (mortar) bed is in progress! I have 1-1/4 bags for mix left, hopefully it’s just enough!
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2 pointsI'm going with the Subaru rally setup
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2 pointsME miller tire sells those in the implement section of their Catalog/site. They have several 15” sized AG tires with different widths. We preferred the fatter ones for Clyde and they look and work GREAT in my opinion. As Eric stated they are 7.60-15 no complaints with traction either!!!
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2 pointsI do not know what you paid for it, but i kno if it was a good deal, id b glad to have it, if it was me... And if the motor was shot/rough, id just try to stuff the biggest Kohler single i could, in there, and be happy😊 I swear...someday i will find a Blackhood to bring Home for keeps😉 Whatever you do, goodluck!
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2 pointsI do not know what you mean by neck being broken off. if the nipple is broken off watch this video for the exact parts you need to fix it.
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2 points@stevasaurus that’s probably 486k . I remember our auto tech. / shop teacher had us order all the parts to piece together four of them from 2” thick catalogs with math coprocessor to run AutoCad11 and AutoSketch . Seems to remember parts coming from over the Country . They blew our regular computer lab 128’s outfits outta the water . Many of computer nerds were jealous they didn’t take shop . This was 1992.
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2 pointsWe bought it from @HorseFixer at Scott’s meet and greet / plow day a while back. I think Duke’s wife was making them? Mrs. Pullstart got a coffee mug and I got that.
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2 pointsI installed the shower pan liner and tested to see if the water sheds in the right direction. Time ran out to mix up mud and pour the top coat, but I managed to complete the light fixture!
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2 pointsMy C105 takes exception to above references to one of her cousins as “junker”, “parts tractor” or anything other than another outstanding and exemplary member of the Black Hood family... So cheers from my C 105 to yours!!! Additional such references will be addressed by her other cousin “The WHrat WHrecker”...
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2 pointsGo get it.... do it.... oh and I wouldn't call it a junker there's no such thing as a red junker!!
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2 pointsFinished painting the hood, just the decals to fit when its hardened off.
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2 pointsOK I just got off the phone with @Gordyhogg and we figured out the issue he has a metric bearing. It is about 2 11/16” OD and a slight bit bigger on the ID Please see picture below of the number and measurements of the bearing I’ve been trying to locate the old threads of what the substitution was when they ran out of 1533’s for a short time.
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2 points
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2 pointsHard to tell what a lost cause really is like! Parts, patience, elbow grease and persistence can turn a lost cause around!
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1 point
Version 1.0.0
433 downloads
1 page from Demystification Guide #492-4509 Image rotated to place the start terminal at the top 1 page 123KB How to troubleshoot 111216 switch replaced by 103990 5-terminal 3-position key switch for battery ignition This switch requires a starter solenoid ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tractor Switch Ignition Battery ignition with electric start 103990 (Threads 5/8"-32) 5-terminal 3-position (B-R-A-I-S) Used 1974-1985 Replaces 111216 5-terminal 3-position 103990 5-terminal 3-position available 06/08 $15.61 from RCPW ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tractor Switch Ignition Battery ignition with electric start 111216 (Threads 5/8"-32) 5-terminal 3-position (B-R-I-A-S) Used 1986 and 1988-1997 111216 5-terminal 3-position replaced by 103990 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Napa and Prime-Line replacement switch 7-01892 (9/16" mounting stem) Stens replacement switch 430-512 (9/16" mounting stem) Rotary replacement switch 31-1931 (9/16" mounting stem) Napa and Prime-Line 5-terminal connector body that uses Packard female spade terminals 7-016034 (With terminals and wire leads 7-01910) Stens 5-terminal connector body that uses Packard female spade terminals 430-206 (With terminals and wire leads 430-223) Rotary 5-terminal connector body with terminals and wire leads 31-6662 Bare 5-wire female plastic connector is Kohler 48 155 01 (This also used on the Kohler engine to tractor connector.) Tractor harness male connector is Toro 112185 and illustrated with the low oil switch. 82-12o502* - Correct 82 -12o502 - Not correct 82-12o502 - Suspicious and not checked or determined yet 103990 Battery ignition switch used on 1974 models 1-0140*, 1-0145*, 1-0353*, 1-0354*, 1-0356*, 1-0380*, 1 -0385, 1-0390*, 1-0480*, 1-0485*, 1-0490*, 1 -0495, 1-0510*, 1-0611*, 1-0630*, 1-0650* ***** 1974 C-120 8-Speed model 1-0353 - Listed in PSB #301E for 1973-74. Suspect 1973 12hp 8-Speed is wrong ? - Most likely a 1974 model using a 3 key-position switch - 1974 on Belgium list 1974 C-120 8-Speed model 1-0354 - Listed in PSB #301E for 1973-74. Suspect 1973 12hp 8-Speed is wrong ? - Most likely a 1974 model using a 3 key-position switch - 1974 on Belgium list 1975 models 1-0141*, 1 -0357, 1 -0375, 1-0381*, 1-0391*, 1-0395*, 1-0396*, 1-0481*, 1-0491*, 1-0511*, 1-0612*, 1-0631*, 1-0651* ***** 1976 models 61 -07K801, 61 -07K802, 61-08K801*, 61-08K802*, 61-08K803*, 61-08K804*, 61-10K801*, 61-10K802*, 61-10K803*, 61-10K804*, 61-12K801*, 61-12K802*, 61-12K803*, 61-12K804*, 61-12KS01*, 61-12KS02*, 61-12KS03*, 61-12KS04*, 61-16K801*, 61-16K802*, 61-16K803*, 61-16K804*, 61-16KS01*, 61-16KS02*, 61-16KS03*, 61-16KS04*, 61-16OS01*, 61-16OS02*, 61-20KS01*, 61-20KS02* ***** 1977 models 71 -07K801, 71-08K801*, 71-10K801*, 71-12K801*, 71-12KS01*, 71-12KS02*, 71-16K801*, 71-16K802*, 71-16KS01*, 71-16KS02*, 71-16OS01*, 71-20KS01* ***** 1978 models 81-08K801*, 81-10K801*, 81-12K801*, 81-12KS01*, 81-14K801*, 81-14KS01*, 81-16B801*, 81-16BS01*, 81-16K801*, 81-16KS01*, 81-16OS01*, 81-20KS01* ***** 1979 models 91-08K801*, 91-08K802*, 91-10K801*, 91-10K802*, 91-11B801*, 91-12K801*, 91-12K802*, 91-12KS01*, 91-14K801*, 91-14K802*, 91-14KS01*, 91-16B801*, 91-16B802*, 91-16BS01*, 91-16BS02*, 91-16K801*, 91-16KS01*, 91-16OS01*, 91-20KS01*, 91-20KS02* ***** 1980 models 01-08K801*, 01-10K801*, 01-11B803*, 01-12K801*, 01-12KE01*, 01-12KS01*, 01-14E801*, 01-14K801*, 01-14KE01*, 01-14KS01*, 01-16K801*, 01-16KE01*, 01-16KS01*, 01-16OS01*, 01-17K801*, 01-17K802*, 01-17KE01*, 01-17KS02*, 01-20KS00*, 02-08BP01*, 02-11BP02*, 02-11BX01*, 02-16BP01* ***** 1981 models 01-08K802*, 01-10K802*, 01-11B804*, 01-12K802*, 01-12KE02*, 01-14E801*, 01-14K802*, 01-14KE02*, 01-16K802*, 01-16KE02*, 01-17K802*, 01-17KE01*, 01-20KS00*, 02-08BP02*, 02-08BP03*, 02-11BP03*, 02-11BP04*, 02-11BX02*, 02-11BX03*, 02-16BP02*, 02-16BP03* ***** 1982 models 01-08K803*, 01-10K803*, 01-11BH01*, 01-12K803*, 01-14E801*, 01-14KE03*, 01-16KH01*, 01-17K803*, 01-17KE02*, 01-19KE01*, 02-11BH01* ***** 1983 models 01-14E801*, 01-14KE04*, 01-17KE03*, 11-08K801, 11-10K801, 11-12K801*, 11-17K801* ***** 1984 models 01-19KE02*, 11-10K802*, 11-12K802*, 11-14KE01*, 11-16K801*, 11-17KE01* ***** 1985 models 21-10K801*, 21-12K801*, 21-14K801*, 21-14KE01*, 31-16K801*, 31-17K801*, 31-17KE01* ***** 111216 Battery ignition switch used on 1986 models 21 - 08K801, 21 - 08K802, 21-10K802*, 21-10K803*, 21-12K802*, 21-12K803*, 21-12KE01*, 21-12KE02*, 31-14K801*, 31-16K802*, 31-17K802*, 31-17KE02*, 31 - 20KE01, B1-12R801*, C1-12R801* ***** 1987 111216 switch not used in 1987 1988 models 31-16OE01*, 31-18OE01*, 31-20OE01*, B1-16O801*, C1-20OE01*, E1 -12K801, E1-18OE01*, Z1-24OE01* ***** 1989 models 21 -10K806, 21 -12K806, 31 -14K804, 31-16O801*, 31-18OE02*, 31-20OE02*, B1-16O802*, C1-20OE02*, E1 -12K802, E1-18OE02*, Z1-24OE02* ***** 1990 models 31 -10K801, 31 -12K801, 31 -12KE01, 31-16O802*, 41-16OE01*, 41-20O801*, 41-20OE01*, R1 -12K801, R1 -12K802, R1-16O801*, R1-16O802*, R1-18OE01*, R1-18OE02*, Z1-24OE03* ***** 1991 models 31 -10K802, 31 -12K802, 31-16O803*, 32-10B502*, 32-10BE02*, 32-12B5A3*, 32-12BEA3*, 32 -12O502, 32 -12OE02, 41-20OE02*, 51 -12KE01, 51-16OE01*, R1-20OE01*, S2-12B502*, Z1-24OE04* ***** ------------------------------------------------------------------- 103990 Battery ignition switch used on 1992 models 41-20OE03*, R1-20OE02* ***** 111216 Battery ignition switch used on 1992 models 31 -10K803, 31 -12K804, 31-16O804*, 32-10B503*, 32-10BE03*, 32 -12O503, 32-12OE03*, 51 -12KE02, 51-16OE02*, R1 -12K804, R1-16O804*, Z1-24OE05* ***** --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 103990 Battery ignition switch used on 1993 models 73501*, 73520e* ***** 111216 Battery ignition switch used on 1993 models 7 3380, 7 3400, 73420*, 73421*, 73440*, 74140* ***** --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 103990 Battery ignition switch used on 1994 models 73520*, 74140* ***** 111216 Battery ignition switch used on 1994 models 7 3380, 7 3400, 7 3401, 73420*, 73421*, 73440*, 73501* ***** --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 103990 Battery ignition switch used on 1995 models 73520e, 74140*Z ***** 111216 Battery ignition switch used on 1995 models 7 3400, 7 3401 x 3, 73420* x 3, 73421* x 2, 73440* x 2, 73501* x 4, 73520e* ***** --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1996 models 7 3400, 7 3401, 73420*, 73421*, 73423*, 73501*, 73502*, 73521*e ***** 1997 models 73422*, 73423*, 73441*e, 73502*, 73521*e *****Free
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1 pointChampion plug RV15YC gapped to .025". Garry
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1 pointI have left-over pieces of brake lining material that you can glue to the bracket with JB Weld. Just let me know and I will send you one or two.
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1 pointMaybe it's just me but with fluid filled tires and iron wheel weights and a 50" then 54" snow plow I never really had an issue with dry fluffy or heavy wet snows on my 520H plus I always had a snow thrower too just in case.
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1 pointPlease do!
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1 pointIm not afraid of that, i know it‘s just a lot of work to do before. had yesterday such a „nobody need“ experience. Drove home and after i get out of the car i smell something - no, it was not myself, there was something different... 😱😂 It smells like hot Brakepads.😱 Then i hear a fizzeling noise from right side, i also wondered, that the Car moves felt heavy the last 1500 meters after a hard Brake ( hum, nexttime i shouldnt brake - harvesting Deerbeef) The nightmare was a fizzeling Brakedisc, hot enough to boil a handful of eggs on it. It was -7deg C but luckily dry Weater at 20:00 Clock local time, than i decide i must take an eye on it, because next day to the job is about 16 Km - not funny with a rotten Brake. So i grab fix the Jack and my Toolbox and tried to opened the bolts for the right Wheel to remove tyre. Screws are seemed tightening by impact wrench on max torque i bet. I grab a 2m Steelpipe, what was required to open the Screws.🤔🤪 After releasing ( with gloves) because rims are also hot, i see the Brakes was wrong mounted, the (normally brakepads fixing) Spring was not right inserted and clamped the Bricks. The Brakedisc wasn’t old and had nearly flame new Bricks in, but they just put on Rust and dirt. they be mounted loveless and knowledgeless. I just can ask myself what an idiot was working on that brakes, if he don‘t had any kind of knowledge about. I put a fixed jack to secure the Car and decide to rework the Brakes a bit earlier than i had normally planed even if it‘s dang Cold outside. Remove firstly the wrong inserted Spring and found, the Brakepads are clamping also whilst rust and dirt wasn‘t removed before inserting the Bricks. Grabed my Wrench and quick remove the saddle and pry and press it few times to release it fore and back, than i cleaned the whole mechanic where they acting with steelbrush, same like brakepad sled. after all was cleaned, i greased slightly a bit with copperpaste on the sledge areal (i still love it to use copperpaste instead of ceramic paste to prevent oxydation on brakes) Than i remount the Brakes as they must be, click the Spring in right direction and do a test. yap, works - verify if saddle releases - yup, it does ! the result - nearly no wobble on Pedal and smooth moving Brakesaddle. What a mess to fix an idiots Work at this temps outside without a garage.
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1 pointCorrect. I'll text him and tell to join in.
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1 point@PeacemakerJack it seems you mentioned a popular size in the farm industry... is that the 7.6-15 or something else?
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1 pointI'm very happy to see what your doing!! I think every one should have an opportunity to learn some type of mechanical skills. It seems like for a period of time classes were more focused on training kids for office type jobs and skilled labor took a hit because of this. Right now skilled labor is in high demand, if you are a machinist, welder, mechanic, etc good paying jobs are not hard to find.
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1 pointIf needing tubes and a clutch were enough to render a tractor junk, 99% of us wouldn't be on this site. Those are easy things to deal with. I can understand being daunted by tasks that you have no experience with, but there isn't really any reason to be. Take it apart and learn. There isn't much to mess up. I have never taken anything to a shop (aside from a machine shop, obviously) to be worked on and I don't plan to. You get a sense of satisfaction when you do something yourself. Your wallet benefits as well. You can buy a tool that you'll use for years for less than what you'll pay someone to do the job once. If your tires don't leak, leave them be. Sidewall cracking has nothing to do with the carcass of the tire. If they do, buy that bead breaker from HF that was suggested a few posts back and put tubes in. HF also has tire spoons for about $5 a piece. You'll want two. YouTube is your friend for learning how to do just about anything. As for your clutch, do a continuity test as was stated before. Also inspect the state of the wires underneath the sheathing. It almost looks like I see a crimp connector in the middle of one of the wires. If that's what it is, they are prone to corrosion when they are exposed to the elements. Could be where your issue lies.
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1 pointSo, carb set to the initial settings as per the manual. Fuelled up, primed, choke on, press the starter....... Cranks over, float chamber fills..... She fires, she runs! Bit lumpy, bit of back firing but she runs. I can move on to finishing the details and making Fred looking good. I had a strip of edging strip left over and put it on the bonnet closure lip, looks neat and the bonnet closes beautifully.
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1 pointTo be fair, the lamps are marketed as landscape lighting and I knew that going in. They do put out more light but it is blanketed over a larger area. When you look at the OEM halogen lighting pattern, it too leaves a lot to be desired since most of the light is straight ahead and little to the sides.
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1 pointI ordered an engine and transmission pulley off of eBay a year or so ago when I was trying to get the mongrel 1267 to drive right. There may be more than one shaft size available for eight speeds throughout the years so you probably should measure yours to be very sure. You should have decent luck finding a pulley as small as 2 or 2.5 inch. Keep in mind when you go to install all this the belt guard is also your belt guide and that may have to be modified a little bit like I did to mine. Love to see pics of what you're up to. Definitely sounds interesting.
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