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I picked up these Kohler parts today from a friend who brought them to me at work. I originally asked him to bring me a bearing plate. Well he did bring me three of those plus two 301 blocks one 321 block several sets of rings 4 new connecting rods , two sets of crank seals two new valves. A piston and connecting rod with rings what I believe is a K 91 set . And a whole lot of gaskets.

Saw this little guy show up on the local classified page we need not mention. Listed for 75.00. Last thing I need is another project but .. I called anyway. Couldn't make time work and talked myself out of it. Just this morning, the fellow calls and says to take it or leave it, 25.00, its headed to scrap if it doesn't go. Well we can't have that.. so off I went. I haven't checked the build plate but he believes it's a 1971. Charger 12, obviously. It was family owned since new. Parked in 1992 when a deck pulley rounded off. Apparently uncovered, and untouched since that day. Square rubber WH key remains in the ignition. Engine does turn over, deck is there but a bit worse for the wear. It has a Solid State Ignition K301 in it which supposedly ran when parked. Interested to see if it's actually still working. Not quite sure what'll happen with it just yet, but here she is! Couldn't stand for it to be crushed.

Thanks to @wheelhorseman and @whtractors24 for some much needed help with this project I have finally come up with an acceptable solution to highlighting the extruded letters on the round hoods and the Kohler K series engine tins.

I might leave milk and cookies but I'm sure not leaving my six pack. Nobody touches my yuengling!! Well OK maybe my buddies!!

up next is the seat for repair, this came from @fast88pu along with the front axle. the seat is going to need a patch panel welded in, maybe I can get it in this weekend between 5 soccer games with the oldest one. the seat is going to get a square cover anyway so it just needs to be functional. I did get @Vinylguy custom decals on it. I love the look it changes the whole look. can't wait to get it next to my stock 854. I picked up a pair of old headlights that I will mount up. then if can't track a parking brake down looks like I will just make it instead. and yes i hand painted the hood letters 1 day before the decals were made available!

Three trucks fit! I can’t believe what some organizing and a little bit of life sized Tetris can do for a barn!

here is my basically original stock 701, if you need any reference photos or have questions please ask, good luck with your restoration

Sure they do Cribs... don't some wood workers oil rub their projects? ...Maybe save a little of that Kohler drain oil.....

Snowblow banks with 1996 520H. 1 qt. gas, 68 degrees in cab. very windy.

hopefully you left out some cookies and milk by the chimney or a 6 pack

Kevin, I see some open floor space left, time to go shopping for more .

Picked up my 3 sets today. They look great and the case is just the right size to throw in a vehicle. There is room in the top bin to add a couple pliers and a 12" adjustable. I even got ACE to throw in a roll of ACE Christmas wrapping paper. BTW, the store had the sets on sale for the same price. I did have to put some of the sockets back in their proper slots. Apparently they got flipped upside down during shipping.

This is the final in a series of Wheel Horse transmissions. I have done the 3 piece #5003 & 5010 for the RJs...the #5025 3 speeds...the #5085 4 speed...the #5060 6 speed and now the #5091 8 speed. It has been a long wait, but my brother Mike had a C-100 that just had both axle bearings go bad. He took it to a dealer to have it all checked out and the dealer noticed the play in the axles. He did not want to touch it and even suggested scrapping it. That's when Mike called me. HELLO!!! I rebuild these...take it off the horse and bring it over. He did. We did have to cut off the both hubs with a 4" grinder...which we replaced with help from Randy... @The Tool Crib. Got the hubs in the mail a week later. We needed 2 axle bearings, 1 break shaft bearing, the 4 seals and the case gasket...got from Lowell https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/141-wheelhorse-parts-and-more/ Time for pictures. Case half...deep side...showing lack of axle and brake shaft bearing. I have to say... @prondzy made me a set of arbors that I was able to use to set these bearings. I did use the freezer method for 2 days to shrink the bearing race...worked like a champ. Mike, those arbors were the cat's meow...Thanks Mate. Seeing that the axle bearing disintegrated, it did leave the axle with some rough spots. I ran the 4' grinder gently over the rough spots so it would fit back in the differential side plate and the axle tube.. BTW...I did 5 videos doing this trans. It fought me to death and I did not edit any of the things that made me go back and re-do the things to make it right. Hopefully, watch the whole video 1st and see where I made mistakes and what it took to make things right. Then you can do it right the 1st time. Video...putting the differential together. I took a bunch of good pictures of the most important part of the 8 speed transmission...the hi/low mechanism...especially showing the fork that is the weak spot. This is what makes it so you can't shift between hi and low range. Video of putting this together follows the pictures. This is the hi/low range mechanism. the input shaft with the gear and spline assembly. The rough part (you see) is where I broke the casting and Mike had it welded. You can see the fork gear and the bolt to release the detente and fork it self. There is the fork...that is what breaks or gets bent. Shifting without coming to a complete stop and going from low to high...or...hi to low range is what breaks this fork. You can see, there is not much there. This is the piece that sticks out of the trans with the lever hi/low. The notch hooks onto the fork of the fork mechanism. I took some different views because sometimes the pieces can be welded back together. the weld job The look of the parts. the videos The rest of the trans. The last 2 videos. Here is some different shots...that I can use to help members when they run into things...like what neutral looks like from the inside. neutral 2nd gear 1st gear It will take approx. 2 qts of 90 wt oil to fill up to the fill mark on the dip stick. I know...this may not be my best effort, but it does show all the pit falls. I am so glad to finally be able to do the 8 speed 8 pinion transmission. Thanks to my brother Mike, my good friend Lowell, my new good friend Randy, and a Minnesota guy that has always been special...Mike P....and as always...my inspiration...Squonk. One thing I have to say though...the video times ad up to 42 minutes and 21 seconds. That is the worst time it would take you to save an 8 speed transmission.

Yeah I’m not to sure about this one. It’s in pretty ok condition. It does have a sticker on it from the shop I worked at 30 yrs ago though. Lol This is actually the first vertical shaft tractor he’s brought home. we pulled the head and it looks good. Got spark. Pulled the tins to clean out the mouse nest. If the trans is ok it’ll be a fun little mower.

with the cold weather coming , i regularly use these on under side of my kohler.s ,https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bayco-SL-300-8-5-Inch-Clamp-Light-with-Aluminum-Reflector/14003467 i use a 60 or 75 watt bulb , that just gives off enough heat in an unheated shed to slightly warm the oil pan area. the cooling duct work makes it difficult to do anything up topside , but the bulb reflector is simple and easy. you can put a couple of hooks on the outer edge to attach to frame techa matic area . between that and a battery tender , it makes cold weather starting / use much easier . just my own experience, pete

Welcome to the forum. Click on the pictures Not necessarily the deck you have but the one supplied in 1961 for the model 701. Garry

Very nice It looks like it was originally a electric start, but he no longer as the dash for it which is probably why he put a recoil start in Definitely got some stuff to look up. Thanks for all your help. If this goes well I just picked up a 500 special from my grandfathers place who recently passed that I would like to restore also. Thanks again

Magnetic block Heater. I have 3 of them. 2 200 and 1 300Watt Napa #'s KAT 1155 and KAT 1160

That reminds me of the joke about the rabbit and the bear.!

Oh, next Time Chicken on Stalk... frozen or fried? 😂

Unless you have a K301 block you won't be able to bore to a K241 to a K301 cylinder walls will be awful thin. Stroke of a K321 is longer than a K241 this will not work, also the K321 crank is weighted for a K321. Download the kohler manual and look at the specs.

Got my seat deck back today, looks great in primer, just have to get some pain on it now, bonnet will be ready Friday. Not done much today as it was our community tidy up of an area of waste land opposite our home. I have formed a group to try and make the area a nicer place. Hopefully Fred will be a great help hauling tools and doing work. Mick

I just pull the batteries out, drain the fuel, set some mouse traps and lock the sheds til spring

Fired quick the Laser, to do a Test it was unused after 6 months periode, so cleanup all, change Cooling Water and try... back in Service again...

The regulator was always there, it is not used anymore but I thought it looked cool & decided to keep, I mean I put a cigarette light on that im not really using either just for looks. The only thing I really removed for good is the original deck lever, and all that linkage type stuff it is all cut out and removed, gives a bit cleaner look.

Ya, I’ve replaced the shifter boot once... I cannot remember when! Guess it time for another!👍

Thanks fellas and its all but another one in the history books. Every day we are given is a new blessing.

You can pick yer nose Squonk, yer @$$ but yes you can pick yer job too. Man with your talents Mike would make a fine soda jerk or brain surgeon for indoor work. Just sayin... So now I get it Sparks...YOU was in the store for R & R! Thought the guy in the Prius was... BTW Dan & I been known to board the Captain's ship should you get in ther again!

We use Wally world straight 90 oil. Definitely want to follow all the above advice. @The Tool Crib Randy has a great idea with flushing...

and a partridge in a pear tree.

don,t forget to replace the shiftier boot , probably the cause of the water , pete

Andy, Thanks for the heads up! I have been in need of another set of tools to keep in the basement. I went to my local Ace, and they had a set sitting on a table with a prince tag of $99.99. I picked it up with a couple of other items. I’m impressed with the quality and assortment of tools for the price. Danny

Well I have decided to wetsand and im happy with the color a little before and after I installed a brass flange bushing in the dash for the steering shaft, I am pleased with how tight the steering is now, next step will be ordering a new set of tie rods from WH parts and more. Here is a couple pics of where I am at so far.

Ok you have a K301 block, the crank on a K301 has some of it removed to balance out the weight of a 12hp rod and piston, a k321 crank will have holes drilled in it to remove material to balance out the weight of the rod and piston.

By the way...

Hi pete, Never had problems with. my Car ( an 25 year old Opel just with smallest Engine 1,2 Litre 4 Cylindre) was suggested by using 5W 30. when i use this oil, i had an oilconsumption of 4 Litres at 1000 Km what is in my opinion much to much. especially in Winter it looses much ( allway‘s some oilspots under the Engine) i changed the simmering on Clutch side but it drops friendly further. After second Oilservices i drove with that oil, i decide to change to Shell 10W40 full synthetic It has actual now 244.000 Km on the Engine without unnormal Oilconsumption or Troubles. 0,2 litres between Oilservice, what is imho a good Value. It was a continouse runner, i own that car since 100.000 Km. it doesn‘t burn the complete Oil before, it looses on several points like Cyl. Head, arround the Engine on several points. it looks like an stalactite carve, since i changed the Oil, nothing happen further. The coldest Day‘s here are -26*C where it starts without problems. In the Wheelhorse i must change the Engine, because massive damage on the Cylinderhead. repair will 5 times the cost than another Engine, so i decide to swap the Engine to an upgrade 16 instead of 12 HP Loncin Brand. The manufacturer( loncin) suggested between 5W30 or 10W40. while i have allready 10W40 i decided to use it therefore also. i never found that it has disadvantages while using in nearly all of my Engines. Only the first Oil for „burnin“ was used a 5W30. after 1 st. Oilservice i changed all to the same Oilspec. At Summer we reached a max. of 36*C what was also in tolerance, and at the Smallengine on my Tiller, It seems also no Troubles. The engine runns smooth, starts easy and even they must work very Hard, i found the running cooler ( measured by a IR Thermometer) In transistion use i can not imagine any significant smoke. Even after Oilservice i didn‘t found evidence of Wear, the oil doesn‘t seem very dirty( metallic wear) and has a good consistency.( fingertest) except on the bigger Turboengine ( Opel Insignia Turbo) that needs urgently a better Oil, before the Originalengine A20NFT needs a 5W30 by GM Specs. After 160.000 „hard driven“ Kilometres with 70% Full thottle- passages the Engine cracks its Crankhouse. a repair was impossible, because the rip was complete thru the Engineblock. That i talked to a friend of mine close to the Netherland border, he knows about the problems on that type of Engine and he offered me a better Engine an A20NHT, but that must urgently be improved by Oilspec. While this Engine was a little „stronger“ driven by an chipped Engine 250HP instead of 220 HP 😎 Here i use now Pennasol SUPER PACE SPORT 5W-50. Now since 100.000 Km in same working conditions, and i found it runns smoother and cleaner than the Engine before. Same Oilspec i drove in my KTM, a high Performance Racing Engine, what is upgraded to Limit. Measured 98 Hp out of 720ccm Single Cylindre Engine on Dyno. A friend of mine was before retired, a Analyst at a German Oil Company, he guided me thru 10W40 as Standart Oil in our envoirement. and he gives me the Specs for my High perfomace Oils in my Racing equippment. The KTM still runs proper, even after several Racetrack and it seems he was right, so far my experiences in Oilspecs.

Yeah it seems that grease and Wood do not mix!

The problem could be as simple as a wire terminal that is not tight or a switch that is failing to maintain. With the engine OFF and the key in the RUN/ACCESSORY position the clutch should be closed when the PTO switch is on. You will hear it click in. Follow the wiring from the PTO and vigorously shake the wire until you hear the clutch chatter or open. Repair that problem and continue on because there may be more than one weak link in that chain.

Your tractor is a long frame model. Here are the blade model numbers in the order they were produced. The 1982 blade was 06-42BC02. Anything since then will definitely fit with older models possible requiring a minor twik to the angle lever. Rear axle mounting brackets part of the blade assembly also required and often separated when blade is removed from the tractor. 1968 model 6-4111 - First to fit LONG & SHORT frame tractors and first to mount under the rear axle - replaced by 1969 model [6-4112 + 6-9621] 1970-73 model [6-4113 + 6-9622] 1973-74 model [6-4113 + 6-9623] 1974 model [6-4114 + 6-9624] 1974 model 6-2131 1975 model 6-2132 1976 model 6-2133 1976 model 66-42BC01 1977 model 76-42BC01 1978 model 86-42BC01 1979 model 96-42BC01 1980 model 06-42BC01 1981-1984 model 06-42BC02 (Up to here including this one they are 42" wide) 1984-1989 model 06-48BC01 (They are now 48" wide) - replaced by the following 1990 model 06-48BC02 1991-1993 model 06-48BC03 1993-2001 model 79350 - (105-1502 kit adapts 2001 and older GT Classic-Series blades to fit 2002 and later tractors 2002 2004-2009 2012 model 79364 - (105-1501 kit adapts 79364 blade to fit 2001 and older GT Classic-Series) Garry

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A fine steed just finishing up the nightly chores.

You will want to flush it out with diesel fuel. What you need to do is lift the front end of the tractor up safely as high as you can and drain out what is in it. Then fill it up with diesel fuel run it around the yard a few times and drain it out again the same way. Do this until it comes out clear. Once you drain the last bit of it out add 2 quarts of 90 weight gear oil !

He'll still have work putting mine on what with my 12 thumbs! When I order from Terry I order two sets. Mess up the first set on purpose just to be over and done with the screwup, then hand the second set to @Achto to put on! I could just order one set and hand him that one to put on but I ain't that bright....

Wheel Horse Parts and More is excited to announce that we will be doing a Feature Item to help you get different Christmas Ideas for your family.

Thanks. I use the Lukas red and tacky on everything. Good stuff

it lives, well sort of, it rolls. put the gas tank together this morning and steering wheel, fitted the hood and drilled 2 holes for the studs for the modified hood (this hood was described in the other post). bolted up the rest of sheet metal and put rear wheels on. tomorrow I will install the one of kind decal kit, which is totally awesome. I need to decide on an engine, I have a k181, a bunch of k91 s, I think i might go with a brand new briggs, I put one in a panzer and I liked it, it is easy for the kids to use. still alot to do on it

I was a ACE Rewards member, but it was not linked to my on line account. Got it now....I ordered 3 sets ($300 + $18 tax) one for me and one for each son for Christmas gifts. Andy for the link.

Cut down leaning tree by road, 520H to light, use the 1948 Ferguson TE-20 3200#.