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I picked up these Kohler parts today from a friend who brought them to me at work. I originally asked him to bring me a bearing plate. Well he did bring me three of those plus two 301 blocks one 321 block several sets of rings 4 new connecting rods , two sets of crank seals two new valves. A piston and connecting rod with rings what I believe is a K 91 set . And a whole lot of gaskets.

Saw this little guy show up on the local classified page we need not mention. Listed for 75.00. Last thing I need is another project but .. I called anyway. Couldn't make time work and talked myself out of it. Just this morning, the fellow calls and says to take it or leave it, 25.00, its headed to scrap if it doesn't go. Well we can't have that.. so off I went. I haven't checked the build plate but he believes it's a 1971. Charger 12, obviously. It was family owned since new. Parked in 1992 when a deck pulley rounded off. Apparently uncovered, and untouched since that day. Square rubber WH key remains in the ignition. Engine does turn over, deck is there but a bit worse for the wear. It has a Solid State Ignition K301 in it which supposedly ran when parked. Interested to see if it's actually still working. Not quite sure what'll happen with it just yet, but here she is! Couldn't stand for it to be crushed.

Thanks to @wheelhorseman and @whtractors24 for some much needed help with this project I have finally come up with an acceptable solution to highlighting the extruded letters on the round hoods and the Kohler K series engine tins.

I might leave milk and cookies but I'm sure not leaving my six pack. Nobody touches my yuengling!! Well OK maybe my buddies!!

up next is the seat for repair, this came from @fast88pu along with the front axle. the seat is going to need a patch panel welded in, maybe I can get it in this weekend between 5 soccer games with the oldest one. the seat is going to get a square cover anyway so it just needs to be functional. I did get @Vinylguy custom decals on it. I love the look it changes the whole look. can't wait to get it next to my stock 854. I picked up a pair of old headlights that I will mount up. then if can't track a parking brake down looks like I will just make it instead. and yes i hand painted the hood letters 1 day before the decals were made available!

Three trucks fit! I can’t believe what some organizing and a little bit of life sized Tetris can do for a barn!

here is my basically original stock 701, if you need any reference photos or have questions please ask, good luck with your restoration

Sure they do Cribs... don't some wood workers oil rub their projects? ...Maybe save a little of that Kohler drain oil.....

Snowblow banks with 1996 520H. 1 qt. gas, 68 degrees in cab. very windy.

hopefully you left out some cookies and milk by the chimney or a 6 pack

Kevin, I see some open floor space left, time to go shopping for more .

Picked up my 3 sets today. They look great and the case is just the right size to throw in a vehicle. There is room in the top bin to add a couple pliers and a 12" adjustable. I even got ACE to throw in a roll of ACE Christmas wrapping paper. BTW, the store had the sets on sale for the same price. I did have to put some of the sockets back in their proper slots. Apparently they got flipped upside down during shipping.

This is the final in a series of Wheel Horse transmissions. I have done the 3 piece #5003 & 5010 for the RJs...the #5025 3 speeds...the #5085 4 speed...the #5060 6 speed and now the #5091 8 speed. It has been a long wait, but my brother Mike had a C-100 that just had both axle bearings go bad. He took it to a dealer to have it all checked out and the dealer noticed the play in the axles. He did not want to touch it and even suggested scrapping it. That's when Mike called me. HELLO!!! I rebuild these...take it off the horse and bring it over. He did. We did have to cut off the both hubs with a 4" grinder...which we replaced with help from Randy... @The Tool Crib. Got the hubs in the mail a week later. We needed 2 axle bearings, 1 break shaft bearing, the 4 seals and the case gasket...got from Lowell https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/141-wheelhorse-parts-and-more/ Time for pictures. Case half...deep side...showing lack of axle and brake shaft bearing. I have to say... @prondzy made me a set of arbors that I was able to use to set these bearings. I did use the freezer method for 2 days to shrink the bearing race...worked like a champ. Mike, those arbors were the cat's meow...Thanks Mate. Seeing that the axle bearing disintegrated, it did leave the axle with some rough spots. I ran the 4' grinder gently over the rough spots so it would fit back in the differential side plate and the axle tube.. BTW...I did 5 videos doing this trans. It fought me to death and I did not edit any of the things that made me go back and re-do the things to make it right. Hopefully, watch the whole video 1st and see where I made mistakes and what it took to make things right. Then you can do it right the 1st time. Video...putting the differential together. I took a bunch of good pictures of the most important part of the 8 speed transmission...the hi/low mechanism...especially showing the fork that is the weak spot. This is what makes it so you can't shift between hi and low range. Video of putting this together follows the pictures. This is the hi/low range mechanism. the input shaft with the gear and spline assembly. The rough part (you see) is where I broke the casting and Mike had it welded. You can see the fork gear and the bolt to release the detente and fork it self. There is the fork...that is what breaks or gets bent. Shifting without coming to a complete stop and going from low to high...or...hi to low range is what breaks this fork. You can see, there is not much there. This is the piece that sticks out of the trans with the lever hi/low. The notch hooks onto the fork of the fork mechanism. I took some different views because sometimes the pieces can be welded back together. the weld job The look of the parts. the videos The rest of the trans. The last 2 videos. Here is some different shots...that I can use to help members when they run into things...like what neutral looks like from the inside. neutral 2nd gear 1st gear It will take approx. 2 qts of 90 wt oil to fill up to the fill mark on the dip stick. I know...this may not be my best effort, but it does show all the pit falls. I am so glad to finally be able to do the 8 speed 8 pinion transmission. Thanks to my brother Mike, my good friend Lowell, my new good friend Randy, and a Minnesota guy that has always been special...Mike P....and as always...my inspiration...Squonk. One thing I have to say though...the video times ad up to 42 minutes and 21 seconds. That is the worst time it would take you to save an 8 speed transmission.

Yeah I’m not to sure about this one. It’s in pretty ok condition. It does have a sticker on it from the shop I worked at 30 yrs ago though. Lol This is actually the first vertical shaft tractor he’s brought home. we pulled the head and it looks good. Got spark. Pulled the tins to clean out the mouse nest. If the trans is ok it’ll be a fun little mower.

with the cold weather coming , i regularly use these on under side of my kohler.s ,https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bayco-SL-300-8-5-Inch-Clamp-Light-with-Aluminum-Reflector/14003467 i use a 60 or 75 watt bulb , that just gives off enough heat in an unheated shed to slightly warm the oil pan area. the cooling duct work makes it difficult to do anything up topside , but the bulb reflector is simple and easy. you can put a couple of hooks on the outer edge to attach to frame techa matic area . between that and a battery tender , it makes cold weather starting / use much easier . just my own experience, pete

Welcome to the forum. Click on the pictures Not necessarily the deck you have but the one supplied in 1961 for the model 701. Garry

Very nice It looks like it was originally a electric start, but he no longer as the dash for it which is probably why he put a recoil start in Definitely got some stuff to look up. Thanks for all your help. If this goes well I just picked up a 500 special from my grandfathers place who recently passed that I would like to restore also. Thanks again

Magnetic block Heater. I have 3 of them. 2 200 and 1 300Watt Napa #'s KAT 1155 and KAT 1160

That reminds me of the joke about the rabbit and the bear.!

Oh, next Time Chicken on Stalk... frozen or fried? 😂

Unless you have a K301 block you won't be able to bore to a K241 to a K301 cylinder walls will be awful thin. Stroke of a K321 is longer than a K241 this will not work, also the K321 crank is weighted for a K321. Download the kohler manual and look at the specs.

Got my seat deck back today, looks great in primer, just have to get some pain on it now, bonnet will be ready Friday. Not done much today as it was our community tidy up of an area of waste land opposite our home. I have formed a group to try and make the area a nicer place. Hopefully Fred will be a great help hauling tools and doing work. Mick

I just pull the batteries out, drain the fuel, set some mouse traps and lock the sheds til spring

Fired quick the Laser, to do a Test it was unused after 6 months periode, so cleanup all, change Cooling Water and try... back in Service again...

The regulator was always there, it is not used anymore but I thought it looked cool & decided to keep, I mean I put a cigarette light on that im not really using either just for looks. The only thing I really removed for good is the original deck lever, and all that linkage type stuff it is all cut out and removed, gives a bit cleaner look.

Ya, I’ve replaced the shifter boot once... I cannot remember when! Guess it time for another!👍

Thanks fellas and its all but another one in the history books. Every day we are given is a new blessing.

You can pick yer nose Squonk, yer @$$ but yes you can pick yer job too. Man with your talents Mike would make a fine soda jerk or brain surgeon for indoor work. Just sayin... So now I get it Sparks...YOU was in the store for R & R! Thought the guy in the Prius was... BTW Dan & I been known to board the Captain's ship should you get in ther again!

We use Wally world straight 90 oil. Definitely want to follow all the above advice. @The Tool Crib Randy has a great idea with flushing...

and a partridge in a pear tree.

don,t forget to replace the shiftier boot , probably the cause of the water , pete

Andy, Thanks for the heads up! I have been in need of another set of tools to keep in the basement. I went to my local Ace, and they had a set sitting on a table with a prince tag of $99.99. I picked it up with a couple of other items. I’m impressed with the quality and assortment of tools for the price. Danny

@Herder here you go. I do recall, it was advertised as $150 and he gave me $50 back after we shook hands on the deal. There are some loose tins, but it’s all there. The hood is quite tweaked, but I have two others from C-101’s to choose from. The hour meter says 1283 and I believe it.... At least they weren’t afraid to grease it!

Glad to help Steve!

Thanks so much. Glad I found the site Very helpful

Personally I've never had any issue starting a well tuned Kohler when cold. I do keep a magnetic 300 watt heater around as an all purpose tool though. When I ran my Model A ford jitter bug I'd drop an aquarium heater down the radiator.

You might be able to throw some heat at that and use a slightly larger metric Allen head. I learned a cute trick from technicians working here in the rust belt couple decades ago. When a vehicle or machine is rusted or corroded: You can almost always tighten something if you can't loosen that same thing.

I love it!!!! Reminds me of one of my favorite movies... Tombstone. I believe that film is already over 25 years old—CRAZY! That is a cool 160 Kevin—have fun working on a name. There are LOTS of cool options from the western films. “Chief” is a cool name for sure...

The reason I ask is I have a 20hp magnum with an 1-7/16” crank and I was wanting to see if I could get a sleeve made that would slide over the crank but still fit inside a pto bearing. Yes it would be thin but it would mainly be to cover the ugly end of a crankshaft and to look factory as my wife will never mow or use the pto on this one I am building her. Just a cruiser.

Ooh, this could be good... [Parental advisory for Howard's intro]

Hello Paladin, Before you get to carried away, I would check to see if the issue with the clutch is mechanical or electrical. If it's mechanical then most here are probably correct to steer you toward a manual change over. I'm really not familiar with that change over, so rely on the ones that know, there is loads of knowledge here. However if the issue with the clutch is electrical and it works intermittently than there's a good possibility that it will be the coil that engages the clutch or a wire leading to it shorting out. I had this issue with my "73" 12 automatic when I first got it. My issue was the coil shorting out, so I posted in the classifieds and purchased a used one and have been mowing with it for 3 years now with no problems. In the end it was a fairly cheap repair and easy to swap out the coil. Plus the tractor is still original. Enjoy your new Wheel Horse!! Gary

The link is: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Wheels/Spindles-Wheel-Hubs/Wheel-Rims/8-x5-5-Steel-Wheel-Rim-3-4-Bore-w-Bearings-1-5079.axd

I have been working quite hard organizing the storage building, but tonight I took a few minutes and pulled the C-160 from the rack. After a quick look over I discovered the fuel line was cut. I pulled the belt off the transmission, I’d like to get it running before spinning the trans. It’s a bit low on oil and the trans looks full and bright red, but everything will get a fresh fluid change if all checks out. The battery is completely dead, so I’ll try to charge it but won’t be surprised if it needs to be replaced. I popped another one in, found the solenoid clicking but not engaging the starter. I removed the starter wire and jumped the terminals together and it rolled over! A quick shot of starting fluid and it roared to life! So far, it needs a fuel line and filter and starter solenoid, assuming it won’t bench test with jumpers either. This leads me to my next tough subject... The ceremonial naming! It’s a C-160. It’s the biggest one-lunger Kohler in a Wheel Horse. It’s superior and the largest engine in my fleet. It’s.... CHIEF!

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I literally just 2 weeks ago rebuilt mine and went to Napa and used those bearings. It was a piece of cake. I was happy to see the needle bearing inside was in good shape. Cleaned and packed it full of Lucas red and tacky. Clutch is nice and quiet and works like a champ. Might have taken 20 minutes start to finish.

The bearing in the bell can be had at Napa for a few bucks. PP204RR6 or Prime line 704250. Unsure about the needle bearing inside but mine was ok. I just cleaned it and greased it. You will need a set of snap ring pliers and a punch. The bearing should come right out easily. You can put a large socket the size of the outside of new bearing to tap it in.

In the event you want a bit more information take a look at this post.

what a sharp looking lineup!!! Well done Sir! Your winter work horses are ready for action I worked for about 2.5hours organizing my shop area and it only looks slightly better😡. I gotta keep at it in order to get it where it needs to be! I need to make an inventory book of all the specific parts and pieces that I have available. Then I need to get some boxes in which to organize the smaller parts. Eventually, I will make doors for my shelves that will bring a great level of visual organization...one of these days