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Was a nice cool evening after work today, so I loaded up the 753 and brought it to our new house. Kids really enjoyed going for a ride. Going to build a barrel train to pull behind it in the near future.

Saw this listed on Facebook Market Place and was misspelled so not sure if anyone even went to look at it. So I went and looked at the tractor and made an offer. However, that owner said they weren't ready to sell that cheap yet and would let me know. Guess they realized the tractor wasn't going to sell for the price they had it listed for and called me 3 days later. The 520 was perfect for dragging the tractor out of its current resting place and on to the trailer. The serial number is not one on the list so is another survivor. The tractor has been sitting outside under a tree for at least 5 years. Transmission gear shift is broken off, wrong steering wheel, destroyed original front tire, wrong opposite front tire, cut up drive belt guard, on and on and on..... The goal is for me to get it back up and running. Have a long road ahead but hopefully can stay focused and not lose interest in this project. Here is the first video. Please don't make fun of it as this is my first attempt at youtube https://youtu.be/p3QHlsoPyds

Casually searching facebook marketplace a couple days ago, i found a WH for sale pretty close to home. The ad stated that when he could get it started, it would run strong, but only until it gets hot. The tractor was listed as coming with a deck and a snowblower, but the images told a bit more of a story. It showed a bright red, repainted tractor a bit brighter red than normal but was pretty cleanly done. It showed the snowblower (short chute single stage) and aerator. But what really got me going was a sliver of black roundness tucked behind the snowblower in one of the images. It had rear wheel weights installed, so could that possibly, maybe, hopefully be front wheel weights?! Fingers crossed! The price was OK for the attachments, wheel weights, and knowing its a non-running tractor, so i figured id throw the fella a message. Not expecting much since it was listed nearly a week prior, i was surprised to get a response stating that i could come look at it that evening. SWEET!! When i get there, I shake the mans hand and walk towards the tractor. Leaned up against a tree are two front WH wheel weights!! AHH!! Trying not to show too much outward excitement as this totally sweetens the deal, i asked for the story on it. He said that he got it two years ago from a friend of a friend and used it to mow his lawn. When the tractor stopped running well, he wasnt sure where to start as hes "no mechanic". Someone said that he should "check the points and condenser" so he did so by replacing them. Said it still ran like poo so he removed the carb to clean it and replace the intake gaskets. Got it back together and it was STILL running badly, so he parked it for 6 months prior to listing it for sale. After fighting with it to get it started, it came to life spitting fuel out of the carb neck and stumbling badly at anything less than half throttle. I quickly checked the motion and lift functionality before shutting it down. The deck spins nicely, though needing some paint, and the snowblower is also pretty nice, though missing some parts. I ended up striking a deal on it so we were both happy and loaded up the goods. Got it home, unloaded, and immediately started tinkering. When the previous owner was trying to start it, i noticed that the gap in the points (he lost the cover) was HUGE. Knowing that was a good place to start, I adjusted them to within specification. I somehow made it worse as i couldnt get any sort of life out of it! Crap! Checked for spark, maybe a tad weak, but there. Sticking a jump pack on it didnt seem to help either. Hmmmm. Well, lets take a look at the plugs. The one against the hood stand was beyond fouled. I dont know if i have seen a worse plug, but the front cylinder plug came out clean and wet. I turned the engine over at this point and tested for compression with my finger. Rear cylinder good, front cylinder, NOTHING. Double Crap!! I noticed by looking down the spark plug hole that the intake valve was not closing. Removing the hood from the tractor and zapping the tins off, i was easily able to remove the head. What do i find but a screw from the carb stuck between the valve and the seat! A-ha! Removed it and zapped it all back together. Lets see if we have life! On the key it sounded much healthier while cranking until she roared to life definitely running on two, though still running pretty badly. I found that the mixture adjustment screws were WAY out. After getting those set, i took her for for her first test run in my ownership and shes a happy little tractor. I did notice that it revs out very wildly with any throttle input. I looked at the linkage and found all that to be OK except for the governor. Somehow that came loose so i will need to figure out how to adjust that. I didnt end up getting the aerator, but i believe i have some sort of mule drive portion of a rear tiller bolted to the belly of the tractor. It appears as though the transmission drive pulley was swapped out for one with two V-belt grooves, allowing a secondary belt to be dropped to the mule drive. Not sure what ill do with it, but ill keep it in the stash when removed! Now i wish i had the room and/or need to keep it as a hydro drive/lift would be useful. One tractor with the plow, another with the blower, and the third with the deck. But i really only have room for two. This tractor will be get its time in the garage and be 100% before i stick it back up for sale. It will need headlights, taillights/reflectors, some bits painted black again, and maybe a sticker set depending on how it looks when i am done. I will be keeping the front wheel weights and the snowblower for certain. I think it will be going with the 42" mower deck, a spare plow i have of the same width, a set of rear wheel weights, and a set of chains. That will be a very nice package that should make someone very happy. Spot the front wheel weights!

Swapped to the fatties on my cruiser for this weekends tractor/machinery show.

Two of our friends flew to The Vatican City and met us in München, so they are missing from these pictures. In front of the Cathedral, is a bridge across the Rhine. Two years ago, I gave Mrs. Pullstart a 10 year anniversary ring and we celebrated with a lock on the bridge. We searched until it was found, then had a toast! If you’re ever there you can look for the “MBK” graffiti and look about a foot and a half down!

Don't have wheel weights for my commando 800 and want to use it with the 36 inch snow blower I got from Bigmike last weekend, so this is my way of adding some extra weight along with my 220 lb. Butt and of course chains. It equals 45 extra lbs.

PETER,,,,YOU DID A GREAT JOB WITH THE DESCRIPTION,,,,BUT ....THIS CROWD USES ONLY 5 CRAYONS,,,,,AND PICS HELP US SEE,,,,,,ITS NOT OUR FAULT,,,,,,,,WE ARE ALL OLD AND WE USE CROSSING GUARDS .......AND STRUGGLE KEEPING BETWEEN THE LINES......MY SELF INCLUDED,,,,, HOWARD 857HORSE IN VA...

Well, my charging issue is fixed! It’s always great to find that I am the cause of the problem! Back when I tidied up the wiring, I pulled the regulator wire too tight and it hopped off the key switch! Easy peasy!

There should be room to weld in a backer plate on the inside of the cracked area of your shroud. Then weld in the missing area and grind smooth. When welding on these thin areas, I have found it helps to clamp a piece of brass to the back side to act as a heat sink to prevent blow thru. When welding around existing tapped holes, I also screw in brass bolts to protect the tapped threads. If you are not comfortable doing this, any welder could make the repair making the area stronger than new.

I know I'm not the only one around here that's slowed down for a promising junk pile, but this has to be the coolest thing I've ever rescued from the curb. it needed a new socket but other than that and a very small crack in one pane it is completely intact. My best guess is 1930's ish but I haven't found anything to confirm or deny that. The pattern is apparently called a Moravian Star and has some really neat history associated with it.

This works good for no more shovels or wheel barrows.

had a chance to get a solid , yet surface rusted dozer blade. got it hone and immediately gave it a chain lube soak down , only wear found was scraper blade , which i quickly turned over. took it apart into the steering quadrant, everything was rust. cleaning scraping and lubing every thing back to life. refitted the lower steering rod with 7/16" flat washers ,and new spring clips. those washers are a tight exact rod size , making for a solid smooth action. best way to work on it is using a milk crate as a stand . and a roller stool. lucas grease on main bolt area and quadrant control, no wear at all on the quadrant angle holes. washer spaced every area along with lubricant , and it was alive with smooth solid movement. this Will work as a back up plow over winter , with the oil spray down preserving its finish , until a fresh paint job in the spring that was one of my jobs today , staying busy, pete

Added these after a rollover,

Awesome father/son time right there! It is amazing to think that after nearly 60 years, that little tractor is still making memories

Kids and tractors, just doesn't get any better!

I ordered a new belt and clutch spring last Saturday It came today so in install them. The spring was broken when I got 5 years ago and had a 1/2" vee belt.I did a better job on fixing the spring and used the belt. It got to wanted to jump 3 or 4 time when starting off. I changed to an old drive belt I had and it was better going forward but still jumped in reverse. So the new belt and spring.

Back on topic boys... wrestled an RJ and Suburban into the living room today.

Picked up this unit from @VinsRJ past Saturday. Motor and transmission where completely done. Most all minus frame/rear and couple small parts were all in primer. 3 days in she’s just about complete . Now should I run it or just look at it 👀 https://ibb.co/1msXBg2 https://ibb.co/6gNV9QZ https://ibb.co/zZR07wr

Your girl friends are gonna be riding on the back? Oh sorry, didn't look at the pics.

Trust me, spend the money on a set of good plans. It's money well spent on a proven design and not that much compared to the overall cost to build one. I used pfengineering.com for back hoe plans. His plans are pretty good but they're just that, plans. There's no step by step instructions with them but you can get plenty of help from him (Paul) or right here on RedSquare. If you are good with engineering your own stuff check out these free FEL plans. I have some free basic Back hoe plans somewhere too

I resemble that remark!

With any fuel supply issue, the first thing I check is to see if I am getting fuel to the carb. To check this, remove the fuel line going into the carb. Hold it in a container while someone cranks the engine. You should see a strong spurting supply from the fuel pump. If the supply is good, then your problem is in the carb. It may be as simple as removing the needle jets, spraying carb cleaner in the holes and resetting the needle valves. If that doesn't help, then you need to clean and/or rebuild the carb. If the fuel supply is not good in the above test, remove the fuel line going into the fuel pump. If you have a good supply of fuel to the pump and none coming out, replace the pump. If there is no supply to the pump, replace the fuel lines, the fuel filter, the petcock and grommet in the tank. Notice, we first determine where the problem is BEFORE we replace parts. We will assume there is fuel in the tank and the petcock is open. It is possible the vent in the tank cap is plugged, but when this is the case, the engine usually starts and runs for some time until the vacuum is created in the tank. You can check this by simply trying to start it with the cap loosened.

There are so many pictures, I’ll try to stay in order with the travels... When we landed in Amsterdam, we simply found dinner, hung out for a bit at the restaurant, then slept until morning. The breakfast at the hotel was amazing! The next day, we traveled to Duisburg to see Jil’s family and stayed in nearby Oberhausen. She was at school in Heide (very far north) finishing some exams so we spent a couple days in Köln and Düsseldorf before seeing her. There were eight of us from the states traveling together, so you’ll see quite a bit of the same people in the photos. They are friends and family... both American and German In the pictures from the Cathedral, you’ll see a lot of artifacts. The cathedral was demolished during the war and in the excavation site, all these artifacts were found from centuries before.

Nice picks I like your son t shirt lady's man. kids and tractors just go together. Enjoy.

I store all of my chains in the under seat tool box on the 1055. Added weight and I don't have to remember where I put them last.

My new wheel bearings showed up today. 👍 I was very pleasantly surprised by the fact they’re super beefy compared to the ones it my front rims. But even happier to see they’re made in USA about 40 min away.

Got a heavy date Sparkeye?

I would use PC-7 or JB Weld.

sorry about that , i will see what i can do , pete

No markings that I can find. I'll give it another go over this evening. It's quite dangerous to handle and I was afraid it was going to puncture my leather seat. Google image search has gotten kind of close but nothing quite right or even remarkably similar. There is such a wealth of knowledge on this forum and an appreciation of old, well crafted things that I wouldn't be at all surprised if someone here could shed some light on it

Mine cracked in the same spot many years ago and the coil would shake all over. I need to weld mine also but ever since I put the solid mounts in the coil doesn’t shake at all. A lot of great ideas here. I will have my son weld it back together. He’s gotten very good with the mig.

All that and no pictures?😁

DM prices are at least 20 years gone. Now we have the Euro, what meant in fact double the price or half of money after... 🤔 however, i found a set for low cost 12“ and a second set in 16“ for the rear in the flee bay. i write the seller for a good offer of both. Both will be crossed chains with quickmount, similar to your system..

The price sticker is still there but I can no longer read the actual dm price...and obviously do not remember...

Thanks...it has been a big adjustment going from living by myself in a 27’ RV to a family of 4 in a 4 bedroom house, but it’s well worth it. Yes it is, I am so glad to finally have two wonderful boys in my life to share my love of tractors with...now if I could just get their mother on board with it

I can send you a replacement shroud.... pm sent here is one pic....pm has others.

Cherish the moment dad ! The years will flyby and they'll be grown up!

So cool Bryce! Congrats on the new place too!

I was a Briggs guy as well until I got my first Kohler. That was an eight horse about three years ago. Points for a Kohler are only about $13 mailed right to your door. The reason that you can find Briggs parts cheap all day every day is because the largest manufacturers bought them because they were the least expensive available engines. not saying they are bad. Just that if you're saving a dollar on a million units you've saved $1000000. Check with the folks here on Red Square for the parts that you need and you'll find that the Kohler parts are absolutely not any more expensive than the Briggs Parts if you're comparing good quality apples to apples. if you get that Kohler up and running right it will give you years and years and years of great service. OEM points on those are well known to last 30 years or more. I've had coils that were apparently original and from the 1960s that were functioning just fine. Not downplaying Briggs & Stratton by a long shot. I like them quite a lot. I just don't feel like it's a fair comparison to put a box store production engine in the face of the 60s and 70s Kohler engines which were on higher-quality machines.

Checking FB and C/L now.

I stopped at the local Post Office today. Can you read the sign behind the hitching posts? I guess you gotta supply your own @roadapples baggies.

I own 10 Wheel Horses and 4 other brands on Tuesday I was able to get a Case 130 the person I got it from saved it from the scrap yard fifteen years ago never had a chance to restore so he decided to sell I am going to try and save it.

Hello. I am new and just acquired an old c120. Will need lots of help.

and congrats on your new horse! I bought an old 502 a handful of years back and found this forum just trying to get my “new mower” running. Well, I’m up to about 16 plus or minus a couple in the barn and don’t see an end in sight!

Give it a week

As long as the rest of the cover is not rusted out and is in good condition, I think I would repair this one. Maybe source a person that can weld or braze the area. Could always go to the old stand by, JB Weld. Those holes are used on some models for choke and or throttle connections / linkage. It would be fine to use them so as the coil wiring reaches.

This was my first Chain Setup. this was V chains, but they slipped sometimes in cleat. We had this year extreme Wet and Heavy Snow. plow allone was not an option to get the driveway Clean, so i must handle it with my little FEL to remove. Later i reworked the Chains to a x-Style, but o have actual no pics from. It was the best improvement i did this Winter. As weight on the Rearaxle, i used a old and defect 120Ah Car battery with a mounting Bracket i build quickly, with about 39 Kilos at all behind The Axle. This year i will do it in combination with my 4WD Iseki. The horse with Snowplow for the light snow ( to protect the Axles) and the Iseki with FEL and 4WD to move it away, out in the Fields. Curious how this Thing works with 4WD but without chains.